Cobra4B
Well-known member
Says it works but may need a new belt soon. Worth $65? Parts available?
1946 C-man drill press... worth $65?
- Thread starter Cobra4B
- Start date
87Pomona
Well-known member
If everything is in working condition and no missing parts then yes, it's worth $65.
Is it worth it, depends, It can be cleaned up to operate like a brand new one.
If you aren't into doing that kind of restoration, might still be worth it. But it will still probably need bearings.
You can find all kind of info here http://vintagemachinery.org/
If you are looking for plug and play probably not. Course I would try and talk em down a little.
If you aren't into doing that kind of restoration, might still be worth it. But it will still probably need bearings.
You can find all kind of info here http://vintagemachinery.org/
If you are looking for plug and play probably not. Course I would try and talk em down a little.
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
That's a 1948-ish "80" model. The "100" is what you want to hold out for. The "100" has floor model features and size. The "80" has bronze bearings, the "100" has all ball bearing construction. The "100" has the depth gauge, the "80" doesn't. And so on.
I'd pass on it.
Catalog pictures:
I'd pass on it.
Catalog pictures:
This is why I love this forum... been keeping an eye out for a low-cost/quality bench-top drill-press. The vintage style caught my eye as I've seen a few on here who restore them. They have so much more character than the new ****.
Not sure I need something as fancy as the 100, but bearings and depth-gauge are better features.
Not sure I need something as fancy as the 100, but bearings and depth-gauge are better features.
byoungblood
Well-known member
If you could talk them down to $50, it would probably be worth it. I bought a tabletop "100" model for $75 about a year and a half ago.
softailgarage
Well-known member
I would pay no more than 50.00
Packard V8
Well-known member
Don't know Virginian Beach craigslist, but here in Spokane I've bought two Delta 11" DPs and one 14" for $50 each. Personally I wouldn't give $50 for the Craftsman 80.
jack vines
jack vines
CAOS
Well-known member
The only bad part about this forum is seeing the good deals people find and then feeling like you've over paid for similar items. If I like something I buy it because I like it and if I feel the price is fair. A night out with friends would likely cost more then $65.00 and the next day you are likely left with a hang over, this way you get to keep what you spent your money on.
Travisnd
Well-known member
Nice find!
Packard V8
Well-known member
Yes. Thing to remember is one is not marrying the machine. If the price is fair, buy it and use it. However, keep looking. If a higher quality machine comes along, buy it, sell the first and hope to make money on the swap.
At present I've got two different model 11" Delta DPs in the basement I got for $50 each and one should go down the road. Maybe I'll throw one on craigslist this spring and use the money to buy a VFD for the other.
jack vines
Bought it... guy had the original instruction pamphlet, clearly says 1946 on it and matches the drill press. Had the proper chuck key and works fine. Operates silently and the chuck spins true. Can't believe how heavy it is... must be 60+ pounds; awesome.
Only thing that was odd is the electric motor has no on/off switch, just a reset buton. Guess I need to make a switch to plug it into that plugs into a normal outlet. Is that normal for the older motors to not have an on/off switch?
A picture back in my garage. Now to build my new welding/metal working table to put it one along with my vice and bench grinder.
http://sphotos-b.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/3506_4622045320382_35880110_n.jpg
Only thing that was odd is the electric motor has no on/off switch, just a reset buton. Guess I need to make a switch to plug it into that plugs into a normal outlet. Is that normal for the older motors to not have an on/off switch?
A picture back in my garage. Now to build my new welding/metal working table to put it one along with my vice and bench grinder.
http://sphotos-b.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/3506_4622045320382_35880110_n.jpg
Flatland Dave
Well-known member
Sweet!
Outlawmws
Well-known member
It's not uncommon at all. The original (Craftsman) motors for these were often used for either a power tool like a DP or saw, or for a bench grinder and had a switch on the base in the middle. The rarely had the switch on the head as in common today (but that is a very doable mod)
If its an "aftermarket" motor, then probably won't have a switch. I'd setup a box with a switch where is it handy to get to for sure.
balane
Well-known member
I think you did fine. It will last you forever and they are very nice drill presses. I've had mine for a while now and still love it. I did have the same switchless situation as you and you can see how I mounted a typical wall switch in a box hanging on the side of my motor mount. Congrats on a nice find.
PS: Mine was in way worse shape than yours when I got it. It could have been confused with a hundred year old, rusted boat anchor.
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PS: Mine was in way worse shape than yours when I got it. It could have been confused with a hundred year old, rusted boat anchor.
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Attachments
Packard V8
Well-known member
FWIW, most of the older USA homeowner DPs, a switch was an extra cost option. The Craftsman sheet metal stands had a little optional powerpack box with a duplex receptacle and an on-off switch which you could buy for about $2.99.
I think I've got one around here somewhere.
jack vines
I think I've got one around here somewhere.
jack vines
Well, what about this one? I think $150 is too high...what should it go for?
http://dayton.craigslist.org/tls/3455905785.html
http://dayton.craigslist.org/tls/3455905785.html
balane
Well-known member
The up and down lever/spindle should not slide out to the side easily, if that's the question. I can jiggle it back and forth a little but mine is held in place by a groove/set-screw that threads in from the bottom.
I did make the long handle that passes through the spindle. It's threaded bar-stock that I cut to the overall handle length. Then I cut two steel hollow tubes to length and they slide over the threaded rod from each end. The knobs (Which are modern Craftsman brand.) were purchased from Sears directly on their parts page for a current DP. I did use threaded bar stock that was the same size as the female threads on the knobs to make it easy.
Yes, I did remove the badge. It was held in place by two little press-fit brads that I tapped out from the rear with a small pin punch. They came out easily and I reused them.
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
Goldhawg........I've got one of those too:
Paid $125 plus of lot of elbow grease after that. Those old Atlas machines are just butter smooth when you set them up right. Looking at the ad you posted, it's missing the bit of aluminum plate that covers the quill return knob on the left side........what's important is that the spring and knob are still there. It even has the metal cone that covers the spindle up top. If it passes the runout and play tests, I wouldn't let $25 stand between me and a nice DP.
Paid $125 plus of lot of elbow grease after that. Those old Atlas machines are just butter smooth when you set them up right. Looking at the ad you posted, it's missing the bit of aluminum plate that covers the quill return knob on the left side........what's important is that the spring and knob are still there. It even has the metal cone that covers the spindle up top. If it passes the runout and play tests, I wouldn't let $25 stand between me and a nice DP.
Ric in Richmond
Well-known member
Get a plug in foot switch for it. HF sells two version. Lock on and momentary.
Tucko
Well-known member
That's a 1948-ish "80" model. The "100" is what you want to hold out for. The "100" has floor model features and size. The "80" has bronze bearings, the "100" has all ball bearing construction. The "100" has the depth gauge, the "80" doesn't. And so on.
I'd pass on it.
Catalog pictures:
Offer him $36.50.
First, Hello first post here.
I picked up, kind of on a whim, a CM drill press this weekend. I was looking for a drill press but never expected to end up with this, I just couldn't pass it up. It's got style. I'm pretty sure it's a Model 100 (103.23130) but am unsure of a couple of things:
1) Based on the catalog picture, when did they switch to the three handles instead of two?
2) The motor (craftsman 1/2 HP) has a label of "J3 48". Does anyone know if that means Jan, June or July? Or does the "3" mean March? "48" mean 1948?
It seems to run pretty quiet and smooth, except for the smallest pulley on the motor set, bent pretty bad. I'd like to post a picture but the one I have at work is too big.
Thanks!
I picked up, kind of on a whim, a CM drill press this weekend. I was looking for a drill press but never expected to end up with this, I just couldn't pass it up. It's got style. I'm pretty sure it's a Model 100 (103.23130) but am unsure of a couple of things:
1) Based on the catalog picture, when did they switch to the three handles instead of two?
2) The motor (craftsman 1/2 HP) has a label of "J3 48". Does anyone know if that means Jan, June or July? Or does the "3" mean March? "48" mean 1948?
It seems to run pretty quiet and smooth, except for the smallest pulley on the motor set, bent pretty bad. I'd like to post a picture but the one I have at work is too big.
Thanks!
OctoMan
Well-known member
My father had one like it except it was a Wards Power Kraft. Must of been same supplier. Cool.
1950mercury
Well-known member
Ive got the 100 model and i love it. Ive had it for over 20 years
I'm looking at this Cman drill press and was wondering if anyone knows about what year it was made.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/tls/3763580868.html
It says it is a model 150, so not sure how that stacks up against the other older craftsman models I have seen on here. Is this worth it? Any obvious parts missing? Thanks for the help fellas.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/tls/3763580868.html
It says it is a model 150, so not sure how that stacks up against the other older craftsman models I have seen on here. Is this worth it? Any obvious parts missing? Thanks for the help fellas.
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
The 150's were made starting around 1959 and were a fine DP........but it looks like the one in that ad is missing the motor. At that price, it needs to include the motor.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
The 150's were made starting around 1959 and were a fine DP........but it looks like the one in that ad is missing the motor. At that price, it needs to include the motor.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Yes it is but make a lower offer, I don't think it's in the Mod 100/150 class.
Just a quick update... been spending all my free time restoring my father's Panoz race car and doing a LS1 swap. Have used the heck out of this ting and all I did was put a fresh belt on it and oil it up. Still haven't done any restoration or added a switch. For now I just plug it in and unplug it.