1948 Sinclair Station single post rotary lift

[Wiley Huggins]

Not sure how old the lift is but it is a single post drive on, when air is applied it blows out around the top of the post. There is a single cap in the middle of the post and there is uncontaminated oil about a foot from the top. Trying to determine if I'm assessing this thing correctly. Appears to me that it may just need the upper seal replaced. I am assuming that the plug in the center is where the oil is checked. It has no dipstick. it has an external air tank and seperate from that it has a two way flip valve, one side to charge and the other to exhaust air. Any feedback would be well appreciated. I'd like to get this thing to work, it fits the place. This hoist is a full length drive on with no jacks. I am assuming it was put in when the place was built ( 1948 ) The lift is red where you can see the color

 

[nadogail]

Welcome to the Forum, I think you are very probably correct in your observations.

I believe the glad seal around the ram can be change from the top. I would raise the lift and put some support around the arms, lower the lift to rest the arms on the supports then change the seal.

i have worked on hydraulic presses and although the pieces are big, they are not complicated. I don't know where my previous employers purchased their replacement seals, but a hydraulic shop should be able to help.

 

[steves_001]

I would reach out to BB747 as his entire thread sorta started out with a similar hoist and reno. He would likely be able to give you a good idea on the whole thing.

 

[marinusdees]

Not sure how old the lift is but it is a single post drive on, when air is applied it blows out around the top of the post. There is a single cap in the middle of the post and there is uncontaminated oil about a foot from the top. Trying to determine if I'm assessing this thing correctly. Appears to me that it may just need the upper seal replaced. I am assuming that the plug in the center is where the oil is checked. It has no dipstick. it has an external air tank and seperate from that it has a two way flip valve, one side to charge and the other to exhaust air. Any feedback would be well appreciated. I'd like to get this thing to work, it fits the place. This hoist is a full length drive on with no jacks. I am assuming it was put in when the place was built ( 1948 ) The lift is red where you can see the color

I would reach out to BB747 as his entire thread sorta started out with a similar hoist and reno. He would likely be able to give you a good idea on the whole thing.

I have an old Rotary single post lift. Bought used 30 years ago, set it myself, hobby use, sometimes more. There is a dipstick attached to the bottom of the pipe plug in the head on mine. Not too many years ago, I sourced and replaced the gland surrounding the top of the piston, where yours is leaking I removed the head to facilitate this. Rotary is still in business. I was able to source the gland from a local service station maintenance company. Owner was a personal friend, dead now. I'd start with Rotary. If they don't sell directly, ask them to recommend a source local to you.

 

[Wiley Huggins]

Welcome to the Forum, I think you are very probably correct in your observations.

I believe the glad seal around the ram can be change from the top. I would raise the lift and put some support around the arms, lower the lift to rest the arms on the supports then change the seal.

i have worked on hydraulic presses and although the pieces are big, they are not complicated. I don't know where my previous employers purchased their replacement seals, but a hydraulic shop should be able to help.

Thanks for the feedback. I unbolted the hoist from the ram today and lifted it high enough to see a hole in what I assume is the reservoir tube at ground level ( where all the dirt grime and water sit ) I'm hoping that tube is threaded and can be removed for repair

I would reach out to BB747 as his entire thread sorta started out with a similar hoist and reno. He would likely be able to give you a good idea on the whole thing.

Thank you. I'll try to figure out how to do that, lol
Someone may have replaced the original dipstick/ oil cap. What's there looks like a standard galvanized plumbing cap. The tube under has rusted at ground level. Gonna have to be repaired or replaced. I need to find out if that reservoir pipe can be removed without pulling the cylinder out. It looks solid except in that spot at floor level where it sat for how many years encased in muck and what bot. Appears to have rusted from the outside. Did you see the follow up pics ? It would be fantastic if that fill pipe was a screw in piece. I will get the hoist itself out of the way tomorrow so I can clean things up and maybe see everything more clearly

 

[Wiley Huggins]

Thanks for the feedback. I unbolted the hoist from the ram today and lifted it high enough to see a hole in what I assume is the reservoir tube at ground level ( where all the dirt grime and water sit ) I'm hoping that tube is threaded and can be removed for repair

Thank you. I'll try to figure out how to do that, lol
Someone may have replaced the original dipstick/ oil cap. What's there looks like a standard galvanized plumbing cap. The tube under has rusted at ground level. Gonna have to be repaired or replaced. I need to find out if that reservoir pipe can be removed without pulling the cylinder out. It looks solid except in that spot at floor level where it sat for how many years encased in muck and what not. Appears to have rusted from the outside. Did you see the follow up pics ? It would be fantastic if that fill pipe was a screw in piece. I will get the hoist itself out of the way tomorrow so I can clean things up and maybe see everything more clearly. Ram seal appears fairly new and has no oil around it, of course when trying to apply air it just blows out the rusted through hole in the fill pipe

 

[Wiley Huggins]

Got the hoist itself working, but the anti-rotation post is stuck in the sleeve, the bolt attaching it to the lift has been cut somewhere along the line. Any ideas on getting the damn thing out, lol. I've soaked it with wd40, it hasn't made its way down between the post and the tube. Is there anything out there that may work better ?

 

[marinusdees]

Got the hoist itself working, but the anti-rotation post is stuck in the sleeve, the bolt attaching it to the lift has been cut somewhere along the line. Any ideas on getting the damn thing out, lol. I've soaked it with wd40, it hasn't made its way down between the post and the tube. Is there anything out there that may work better ?

I have a single post Globe with a Rotary head. They interchanged. About the same vintage. Bought used, 35 years ago, installed myself 34 years ago. No antirotation post, rarely if ever a problem, only occasionally when raising or lowering, need to steer the vehicle to keep it straight. The gland (seal) at the top of the cylinder was still available a couple of years ago. Mine has a dipstick attached to the pipe plug, I think if you felt the need, one could be fabricated. Also, the plug needs to be tight. If it leaks, the lift will slowly descend. I would warn you that the cylnders were prone to rusting out, releasing hydraulic fluid, considered hazardous material into the soil. I coated my cylinder with rust reformer and two coats of the black sealer used on concrete basemant walls. And, on expert advice, backfilled the hole with sand (no rocks). Rocks disturb the coating and produce leaks. You can determine leaks by putting a pressure gauge on the lift side of the plumbing, so it records the amount of pressure in the ram, then monitor whether the pressure diminishes while the lift is under pressure, e.g., raised.
I was concerned aboiut the lack of a ratcheting post to prevent rapid descent. My expert told me even with a sizable leak, the hoist will not fall catastrophically. If you cipher on it, it makes sense.
As a matter of fact, I have been able to completely turn a vehicle around and drive oit out forward. Depending on the length of the vehicle.

 

[Wiley Huggins]

I have a single post Globe with a Rotary head. They interchanged. About the same vintage. Bought used, 35 years ago, installed myself 34 years ago. No antirotation post, rarely if ever a problem, only occasionally when raising or lowering, need to steer the vehicle to keep it straight. The gland (seal) at the top of the cylinder was still available a couple of years ago. Mine has a dipstick attached to the pipe plug, I think if you felt the need, one could be fabricated. Also, the plug needs to be tight. If it leaks, the lift will slowly descend. I would warn you that the cylnders were prone to rusting out, releasing hydraulic fluid, considered hazardous material into the soil. I coated my cylinder with rust reformer and two coats of the black sealer used on concrete basemant walls. And, on expert advice, backfilled the hole with sand (no rocks). Rocks disturb the coating and produce leaks. You can determine leaks by putting a pressure gauge on the lift side of the plumbing, so it records the amount of pressure in the ram, then monitor whether the pressure diminishes while the lift is under pressure, e.g., raised.
I was concerned aboiut the lack of a ratcheting post to prevent rapid descent. My expert told me even with a sizable leak, the hoist will not fall catastrophically. If you cipher on it, it makes sense.
As a matter of fact, I have been able to completely turn a vehicle around and drive oit out forward. Depending on the length of the vehicle.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll still use the hoist rather than remove things from concrete. I like to have it because it has a locking safety in the upright position, but not a deal breaker. Mine is next to a wall so no rotation. Mine is also a drive on ramp style

 

[Flintlock42003]

I have a similar Rotary lift model 62540, too expensive to repair, and I’m trying to remove it. My mini backhoe can’t lift both cylinders at once.

Anyone know how to get the inside cylinder out?

 

[marinusdees]

I have a similar Rotary lift model 62540, too expensive to repair, and I’m trying to remove it. My mini backhoe can’t lift both cylinders at once.

Anyone know how to get the inside cylinder out?

Get a bigger backhoe?

 

[Flintlock42003]

Definitely! Checked on renting, $200 for half day. The scrap metal price won’t cover the cost.