1966 chevy how to lower it?
- Thread starter mad57
- Start date
JC23
Well-known member
Yes, you would drop it but it would ride like ****. Go fer dropped spindles and springs in the front. don't ferget the shorter shocks.
Do the same if you have coils in the rear. If you have leafs, find dropped leaf springs for the best results.
Do the same if you have coils in the rear. If you have leafs, find dropped leaf springs for the best results.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
If you have dropped spindles you shouldn't have to have shorter shocks, but if you get the DMC lowering arms then you will need the shorter shocks.
Mad...don't worry about dropping it, I'll just take it the way it sets.
softailgarage
Well-known member
x2, what he said. If you just cut springs, It will ride like **** & it's gonna start messing with the ball joints and wearin the tires funny.
Sgreve32x
Well-known member
I would cut the frame and lower the frame. Leave the front and rear suspension alone so you dont mess with the geometry of it. I would take the body and box off. Cut the frame in flat positions. Then take the front stub bottom of the frame, Line it up with the top of the center section of the frame. And then weld it back together. Reinforce it. This is a little more work. But it is cheap than buying new parts. Does take longer to do it.
patent pending
Well-known member
Gary S
Well-known member
Tune it up and drive it the way it is. If it hasn't been mucked up by previous owners, it should have another 30 good years left in it.
Rodhotz
Well-known member
This is the last thing i would do. no need to screw up a good frame and truck. do like patent pending did cheap and easy, but still better to use dropped spindles.
Zeke
Well-known member
It's raised spindles, not dropped, if you want the wheel higher in the well.
On the short shocks, maybe he meant the rear. Need to use a shorter shock or lengthen the brackets on the banjo.
IIRC, the '66 1/2 ton used coils in the rear on 2WD. I know they did in '72>.
On the short shocks, maybe he meant the rear. Need to use a shorter shock or lengthen the brackets on the banjo.
IIRC, the '66 1/2 ton used coils in the rear on 2WD. I know they did in '72>.
Rodhotz
Well-known member
They are called dropped spindles because they lower the ride hight, yes it is done by raising the spindle. would sound kinda funny saying buy raised spindles to lower your truck! kinda like driving on a parkway and parking on a driveway!
The chevy trucks used the trailing arm rear from 60-72. short shocks on the front are used with lowered springs.
Sgreve32x
Well-known member
I have to disagree. The 2 trucks I have built and the 3rd in progress. We have always chopped the frame. Whats the difference if you chop the frame or put different spindles on? Why take off good truck spindles?
To each there own.
Good luck and Ill be waiting to see pictures when you get it lowered.
Rodhotz
Well-known member
Why, once you chop up the frame it is never going back stock, and their goes the strength. and by the way it is called "Z" ing the frame. spindles are bolt on and can be put back stock if so desired. If you are going to mess with the frame might as well "C" notch it in the back and bag it all around so it lays frame. Only frame i would "Z" is an A bone or 30's RPU.
Richard D
Well-known member
Been done on those trucks literally thousands of times, nothing to it. Go buy a Truckin' magazine. Probably a dozen ads in there with the parts you need. New spindles will even let you swap to discs and five lugs if you feel the need. Mine has shorter springs and dropped spindles up front. I removed the stock bump stops and put in much shorter units for increased travel. Rides smooth, can even carefully hop a curb.
Sgreve32x
Well-known member
Like I said, To each their own.
19richie66
Member
- Joined
- May 13, 2012
- Messages
- 7
Dropped my 72 a while back.Used this place. High quality parts,great service.
http://www.earlyclassic.com/
http://www.earlyclassic.com/
Good lord... some people make things sooooo complicated... and have SOOOO much misinformation!
Dropped spindles are the best way to lower the front of the truck. They aren't cheap, but they're not overly expensive either.
One "problem" is for that truck, I've only found them made for disc brakes, so your "quick lowering job" becomes a whole brake conversion project too. You should definitely convert to a dual-reservoir master cylinder, run new front lines, and self-adjuster conversion kits in the drums go a long way towards making the brakes safe.
Cutting a coil or coil and a half out of the front springs isn't going to kill the ride. It WILL definitely stiffen it up a bit, but you won't need new fillings after a drive to the grocery store.
It's time-consuming, but after cutting the first coil out, re-install, check ride-height and quality, and if you want it lower, cut half a coil at a time.
Cutting coils will add a little bump-steer, but you're not cutting 5 inches out of the ride height, you're more than likely cutting two or three at the most, so the bump steer isn't a huge concern.
You absolutely have to get a new alignment up front after lowering it. Not a big deal.
To cut the springs, you can use a torch or a chop saw. Some people say that cutting the spring with a torch will ruin the metal and make the spring lose its temper. This is only true at the point of contact with the flame. For the whole spring to lose its temper, it'd have to get orange-hot.
For the rear, they're coil springs as well, but you can't cut them--the top and bottom of the spring have pig-tails, they're not "symmetrical" tubular bodies.
Lowering springs are available from a number of places, and they're fairly cheap.
But a GREAT source for lowering springs for the rear is your local 4x4 shop. The stock Jeep wrangler springs are a direct bolt-in, and lower the rear a few inches. The shops usually give them away after installing a lifted suspension.
There's a HUGE thread on the HAMB about these trucks, with lots of good tech tips.
-Brad
Dropped spindles are the best way to lower the front of the truck. They aren't cheap, but they're not overly expensive either.
One "problem" is for that truck, I've only found them made for disc brakes, so your "quick lowering job" becomes a whole brake conversion project too. You should definitely convert to a dual-reservoir master cylinder, run new front lines, and self-adjuster conversion kits in the drums go a long way towards making the brakes safe.
Cutting a coil or coil and a half out of the front springs isn't going to kill the ride. It WILL definitely stiffen it up a bit, but you won't need new fillings after a drive to the grocery store.
It's time-consuming, but after cutting the first coil out, re-install, check ride-height and quality, and if you want it lower, cut half a coil at a time.
Cutting coils will add a little bump-steer, but you're not cutting 5 inches out of the ride height, you're more than likely cutting two or three at the most, so the bump steer isn't a huge concern.
You absolutely have to get a new alignment up front after lowering it. Not a big deal.
To cut the springs, you can use a torch or a chop saw. Some people say that cutting the spring with a torch will ruin the metal and make the spring lose its temper. This is only true at the point of contact with the flame. For the whole spring to lose its temper, it'd have to get orange-hot.
For the rear, they're coil springs as well, but you can't cut them--the top and bottom of the spring have pig-tails, they're not "symmetrical" tubular bodies.
Lowering springs are available from a number of places, and they're fairly cheap.
But a GREAT source for lowering springs for the rear is your local 4x4 shop. The stock Jeep wrangler springs are a direct bolt-in, and lower the rear a few inches. The shops usually give them away after installing a lifted suspension.
There's a HUGE thread on the HAMB about these trucks, with lots of good tech tips.
-Brad
Um... besides having to do all the sheetmetal work to the floor, cutting the inner fenders, relocating the radiator core support, relocating the bumper bracket area, changing the angle on the steering column, re-routing gas and fuel lines, new engine mounts and trans cross member, and dealing with the new driveshaft length?
Why, other than all that, it's a simple weekend deal!
-Brad
rsanter
Well-known member
Best way here....
Remove the cab and box
Go get a late90s truck and part it out
Keep the frame, suspension, engine/trans
Mount the old cab and box on the new frame
You now have updated the brakes, suspension, engine and trans all at once
Bob
Remove the cab and box
Go get a late90s truck and part it out
Keep the frame, suspension, engine/trans
Mount the old cab and box on the new frame
You now have updated the brakes, suspension, engine and trans all at once
Bob
Zeke
Well-known member
The term "dropped" came from the beam axle days. In building racecars, I've never ordered "dropped spindles." On customs, I've ordered spindles with a specific drop measurement. But I guess once it got started wrong, some sellers just kept it wrong.
If you look on this page you will see both dropped spindles for rally cars and raised for track cars.
So, since this thread is about a truck and people do raise up trucks, might as well get the terminology correct. Or, do what several sites do and call them "lift" and "lowering" spindles. No guessing as to what those terms mean.
If you look on this page you will see both dropped spindles for rally cars and raised for track cars.
So, since this thread is about a truck and people do raise up trucks, might as well get the terminology correct. Or, do what several sites do and call them "lift" and "lowering" spindles. No guessing as to what those terms mean.
Sgreve32x
Well-known member
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Notch1988
Well-known member
I lowered my '66 too...
Gradyhd
Active member
If you're just wanting a few inches cheap you can heat the coils at the lower pocket and let them collapse. Put blocks under the frame on all 4 corners leaving the approx. drop below the frame, then heat the coils until the frame drops down and sits on the block, go to the other side and do the same until all 4 are down. If you do it a little at a time, 1" to 2", you can get it even. You have to drop the rear about 2" more than the front to get it level. If the rear is leaf spring, take a couple leafs out of each pack for the same look. Before everyone goes ballistic, this is the cheapest way to do it, not the most correct. But if it's looks someone wants cheap, this will work. I've done it for many friends and the only sacrifice is stock ride quality.
Rodhotz
Well-known member
Well since you brought this up, another way is to get the complete front off a 73-82 1/2 ton. all you do is unbolt the crossmember and remove complete with all the suspension, peel out the 66 stuff and drill and bolt up the late model suspension with the power steering, and while you are at it get the rear end also and now you have 5 lug all the way around.
Rodhotz
Well-known member
I lowered my '66 too...
Yep she is a layin!!
Hmm not seeing no air under the tires though!
Zeke
Well-known member
Cheap, yes. But there's nothing worse than a hack job. Coil binding and the wrong dynamics for the spring. The spring rate will be messed up big time and the the shocks won't be close to the right rate for the springs. I can't think of a worse thing to do to the suspension of a car. It will take the car back to the horse and buggy days and buck you like on a rutted dirt road.
But yeah, cheap. I've give you that.
Sgreve32x
Well-known member
I lowered my '66 too...
Very nice frame job. That will look sick.
Sgreve32x
Well-known member
Whats trash about it?
Richard D
Well-known member
Obviously has airbags, and will ride just fine at ride height. My '65 Riviera had them when I bought it, will air up taller than stock, and sits flat on the pavement with the air out(Not my preference, needs some bumpstops in case of a[rare] airline failure so I don't go skidding down the freeway on the frame, which it hasn't in five years since I've owned it).
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Nope.
I simply installed lowering springs in the back and shims to correct the pinion angle, and cranked down the torsion bars ('61 Suburban) and took it to an alignment shop.
Well... I actually had my 15 year old son and his friend do those things the day before we drove 1500 miles to The Hunnert Car Pileup in Illinois...
It took them 45 minutes start-to-finish... and that included putting the tools away, so I'm guessing you wouldn't be interested in my build methods.
Makes MUCH more sense to completely disassemble the vehicle, cut up the frame, weld it all back together, redo the floors and all the rest, to get it a few inches lower than stock.
-Brad
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Do NOT do it this way.
If you heat the springs enough to collapse them, you have taken the temper out of the springs.
It's the quickest way to ruin springs.
-Brad
Rear end from '73-up isn't a bolt-in.
'60-'72 is the trailing arm/coil spring rear end with a panhard bar locator.
'73-up is leaf spring.
I THINK, but am not sure, you can simply swap the axles and the brake drums to the early housings. (except '60-'63)
-Brad
If he's putting airbag suspension on it (which is a pretty safe bet), the airbags raise the vehicle up to a safe ride-height.
I personally don't care for bagged vehicles, but there's nothing mechanically wrong with a well-done air-ride system. (other than you're stranded if you blow a line or bag... which I've seen several times, on pro-built vehicles, including TWO vehicles that Air Ride themselves installed the system on for a couple project vehicles for a large company)
-Brad
packofqtips
Well-known member
guess my truck is trash, no way possible i could drive this thing right??
To the OP, give me the truck and in a few short months it will be almost as low as my burban Thats the body style truck i'm looking for for my next project. i just want a fleetside but i can overlook that
To the OP, give me the truck and in a few short months it will be almost as low as my burban
Thats the body style truck i'm looking for for my next project. i just want a fleetside but i can overlook that packofqtips
Well-known member
But in all seriousness, If you cant afford a set of drop springs for it, just wait until you can. No need to do it twice, once the wrong way and once the right way when it breaks something
tyjoja
Well-known member
I had a 73 chevy and used drop spindles in the front and shackles in the back. 4 bolts and 3-4 guy and the bed comes right off. I'm not a wheel bearing guy so I had the front spindles put on, cheap
1948
Well-known member
first thing you need to do is find some wheels and tires that fit in the wheel well..... and have the correct backspacing ect. THEN worry about lowering it. basically, theres a bunch of ways to do it. some are cheap and work but will make it ride like ****. the others will cost more but add value to the vehicle and make it drive the same or nicer.