1968 Champion Air Compressor-What Modle???

[durfman99]

I just got this air comp. the guy said the ele. motor stopped but the head works ok was starting to get slow, So I thought I get a kit to put in it but can,t tell exactly the model??
On the head itself has NR 14 6A, and on the tank tag has all these numbers
Mfg, 147707
BD 136757
TM450
HD164
SH187
DES-WP200
Any help would be very grateful---Here couple photo0s
Has 16 1/2inch wheel for belt
Got the tank and this head free--yep gave it to me so want to get it running
OH it is a

 

[kams1973]

Looks like an R10

 

[IndyGarage]

I've got one from 1971 on an 80 gallon tank. Excellent pump.

 

[md21722]

That's an original/early R15. If its pushing oil above the piston you'll need to rehone and rering it. Otherwise just valves. Later ones are slightly different. They went to square fins in the late 1970's before returning to round ones later. The most recent ones have slightly different manifolds than the earlier ones (between 1978-1995 and current). They will last indefinitely if serviced. It's not uncommon to find them 50-70 years old on riveted tanks. Best bet is to remove the valves, check for oil, and bring them down to your compressor dealer so they can match them up. Second best bet is to call Mike Henegar @ Pacific Air Compressors in Portland and tell him what you've got and that you need valves. Pacific Air Compressors is a brick and motor shop that also does a ton of online sales. They are good people & Mike is the historian for Champion compressors. To keep things cool, just make sure you buy form them if you call.

 

[durfman99]

That's an original/early R15. If its pushing oil above the piston you'll need to rehone and rering it. Otherwise just valves. Later ones are slightly different. They went to square fins in the late 1970's before returning to round ones later. The most recent ones have slightly different manifolds than the earlier ones (between 1978-1995 and current). They will last indefinitely if serviced. It's not uncommon to find them 50-70 years old on riveted tanks. Best bet is to remove the valves, check for oil, and bring them down to your compressor dealer so they can match them up. Second best bet is to call Mike Henegar @ Pacific Air Compressors in Portland and tell him what you've got and that you need valves. Pacific Air Compressors is a brick and motor shop that also does a ton of online sales. They are good people & Mike is the historian for Champion compressors. To keep things cool, just make sure you buy form them if you call.

Thanks for all info, This is a case of the father died and sons are selling [or giving away] his shop stuff and dont know what they have, They said it pumps still but was slowing down on how fast it got up to pressure, didn,t say anything about oil, I got tank and did not see any in it?? Be best to ring it anyways right?

 

[durfman99]

Thanks for all info, This is a case of the father died and sons are selling [or giving away] his shop stuff and dont know what they have, They said it pumps still but was slowing down on how fast it got up to pressure, didn,t say anything about oil, I got tank and did not see any in it?? Be best to ring it anyways right?

Question, I only have 220 at my house, what size ele. motor will I need to run this??

 

[durfman99]

That's an original/early R15. If its pushing oil above the piston you'll need to rehone and rering it. Otherwise just valves. Later ones are slightly different. They went to square fins in the late 1970's before returning to round ones later. The most recent ones have slightly different manifolds than the earlier ones (between 1978-1995 and current). They will last indefinitely if serviced. It's not uncommon to find them 50-70 years old on riveted tanks. Best bet is to remove the valves, check for oil, and bring them down to your compressor dealer so they can match them up. Second best bet is to call Mike Henegar @ Pacific Air Compressors in Portland and tell him what you've got and that you need valves. Pacific Air Compressors is a brick and motor shop that also does a ton of online sales. They are good people & Mike is the historian for Champion compressors. To keep things cool, just make sure you buy form them if you call.

Do you know what size ele. motor I would need to run this at my house garage? Only have 220 single phase?

 

[bsaint]

5h to 7.5hp.

 

[md21722]

The pump is rated for 5 HP at 734 RPM and 7.5 HP at 990 RPM.

Most people prefer to run these at 5 HP.

It takes a 7" sheave at 5 HP with a 1725 RPM motor. Baldor L1410/L1430 are around $300-350 from the motor wholesalers on eBay.

You should get a magnetic starter for it. Square D ones are around $150.

 

[md21722]

I should also say if the pump has a serial number on the front top bolts of the unloader... Champion can look it up and send you the parts list & diagram.

 

[durfman99]

I should also say if the pump has a serial number on the front top bolts of the unloader... Champion can look it up and send you the parts list & diagram.

Hi, been a while, finally got another tank and motor and am trying to hook this up. I did find the problem I think? I took off the top all 4 where valves are and on the guess it,s the high pressure intake there was a small screw stuck in the valve, took off the low pressure outlet and screw was missing. Cleaned the valves all look very good and the inside cyl. walls still have the cross hone marks, heck it looks new inside.No sign of pumping oil at all.
Question, on the one bottom photo I put on what is that?? And the end of gov. has a tee and a rubber hose about 6inch? dont know where it went? Was not on tank when I got it.
Any ideas would be helpfull, chuck

 

[durfman99]

Hi, been a while, finally got another tank and motor and am trying to hook this up. I did find the problem I think? I took off the top all 4 where valves are and on the guess it,s the high pressure intake there was a small screw stuck in the valve, took off the low pressure outlet and screw was missing. Cleaned the valves all look very good and the inside cyl. walls still have the cross hone marks, heck it looks new inside.No sign of pumping oil at all.
Question, on the one bottom photo I put on what is that?? And the end of gov. has a tee and a rubber hose about 6inch? dont know where it went? Was not on tank when I got it.
Any ideas would be helpfull, chuck

Here a new photo of what it is I don,t know where it goes??

 

[malibu101]

Here a new photo of what it is I don,t know where it goes??

The 2nd pic a low oil level "sensor".
It wires into the motor starter to shut it off or not allow it to run if the oil level is low.
Some models don't have this feature.

 

[durfman99]

Here a new photo of what it is I don,t know where it goes??

Well I got this head for free from a guy had tank but motor went bad, I made a lawn roller out of that tank cause was rusty alot inside, it was a 1968, but today I found 80 gal tank and 3ph motor [1994] with head blew up for 40bucks. Got it home tank looks good inside and guy down my road is ele. motor wizzered said motor is very good shape, so if this goes right may have complete unit for under a 100??
Going to sandblast everything and paint, and even inside blast it and coat it also.

But need help with hooking it up.

 

[durfman99]

The 2nd pic a low oil level "sensor".
It wires into the motor starter to shut it off or not allow it to run if the oil level is low.
Some models don't have this feature.

Thanks, Then it be ok to just not have it I guess??

The rubber hose at tee any ideas?? Looks like it had a hose clamp on the other end also but where it went???????

 

[malibu101]

When the compressor shuts off the head pressure is unloaded through that hose. You will hear air hiss out when the compressor starts and stops but not when running.
DO NOT block this hose it must be open to the atmosphere and not attached to anything.

On the low oil monitor- yeah, you don't need it. Just keep an eye on the oil level and run her.

 

[durfman99]

When the compressor shuts off the head pressure is unloaded through that hose. You will hear air hiss out when the compressor starts and stops but not when running.
DO NOT block this hose it must be open to the atmosphere and not attached to anything.

On the low oil monitor- yeah, you don't need it. Just keep an eye on the oil level and run her.

Hi, Thanks alot, I know there Dumb questions for you but I never had one of these. I am 63 been Diesel mec. most my life just never worked on this. I feel stupid now,lol.
Will have my friend check ele. motor out, I sand blasted tank today, See how this goes. I took all valves out to clean them also.

 

[malibu101]

Hi, Thanks alot, I know there Dumb questions for you but I never had one of these. I am 63 been Diesel mec. most my life just never worked on this. I feel stupid now,lol.
Will have my friend check ele. motor out, I sand blasted tank today, See how this goes. I took all valves out to clean them also.

Don't beat yourself up. Nobody knows everything about everything.
Teamwork!

 

[durfman99]

Don't beat yourself up. Nobody knows everything about everything.
Teamwork!

THanks alot, I mean it, JUst got back from my friend down the road he been working for a living on ele. motors for 45 years and after 4 hours there I must say I know alot more now about 3phase. The motor is fine so just waiting on new valve seals and will put together, Also will hook up the low oil switch [he showed me how] And showed all about what I need the motor start up etc.

Was good day. That No; NR-14-6A on the head is a R15? is it same as 3Z180?

 

[malibu101]

THanks alot, I mean it, JUst got back from my friend down the road he been working for a living on ele. motors for 45 years and after 4 hours there I must say I know alot more now about 3phase. The motor is fine so just waiting on new valve seals and will put together, Also will hook up the low oil switch [he showed me how] And showed all about what I need the motor start up etc.

Was good day. That No; NR-14-6A on the head is a R15? is it same as 3Z180?

Good to hear. I have a 2002 5HP Champion with an R15 pump that I got real cheap and works perfect except the oil level switch was bad so I'm not using it.

It has a 3-phase motor on it. My house has single phase.
I was able to find a 10HP 3-phase motor for free so I made a rotary phase converter instead of spending a few hundred on a 5HP single phase motor to replace it with. While it is a bit of a hassle to got get her going it works until I feel like dropping the dough on a new motor.

This shows me starting it-

 

[durfman99]

Good to hear. I have a 2002 5HP Champion with an R15 pump that I got real cheap and works perfect except the oil level switch was bad so I'm not using it.

It has a 3-phase motor on it. My house has single phase.
I was able to find a 10HP 3-phase motor for free so I made a rotary phase converter instead of spending a few hundred on a 5HP single phase motor to replace it with. While it is a bit of a hassle to got get her going it works until I feel like dropping the dough on a new motor.

This shows me starting it-

WOW, That is really neat!! Look,s like s real good set up, I would do the same thing if I was you. Money is hard to come by now-a-days anyways. I am temped to keep it but really don,t need it, need $ more,lol. Goiung to post photo when I get this going, Thanks again

 

[durfman99]

Good to hear. I have a 2002 5HP Champion with an R15 pump that I got real cheap and works perfect except the oil level switch was bad so I'm not using it.

It has a 3-phase motor on it. My house has single phase.
I was able to find a 10HP 3-phase motor for free so I made a rotary phase converter instead of spending a few hundred on a 5HP single phase motor to replace it with. While it is a bit of a hassle to got get her going it works until I feel like dropping the dough on a new motor.

This shows me starting it-

HI, That is really neat! Good you can do thwt, I am good with alot of things but ele. motors aint one of them.

Question; I got new valve gaskets today but dont know which ones go where? The old ones that were in the head only had one copper and rest aluminum,[Not correct] New set has 3 copper and 4 aluminum? I look up on the diagram of the head but only says the Part No of gasket can,t tell which is copper?? Have time to help out??

 

[malibu101]

I've never had to open up this pump, or any other R series, so I have no idea.

Hopefully someone else comes in here and knows about these.

 

[durfman99]

I've never had to open up this pump, or any other R series, so I have no idea.

Hopefully someone else comes in here and knows about these.

Here,s couple photos of inside of both cyl,s. Still see cross hone marks and clean, look ok to you?? Hopefull later this week have it put together ,painted, and run it see what happends??

The first two photo,s are the small cyl. looking threw the port, Thing looks new to me. And I only wiped the big cyl. off it was about that clean.

 

[jscott14]

Thanks, Then it be ok to just not have it I guess??

The rubber hose at tee any ideas?? Looks like it had a hose clamp on the other end also but where it went???????

I know this is an old thread, but since these Champion compressors will be around for decades more (because it's almost impossible to kill them!) I thought it would be worth adding my $0.02.
malibu101 is correct in saying that head pressure is released through that hose when the compressor shuts off. But this COULD raise other questions... Why does it need a hose if it's just bleeding off air? Why is there a Tee attached to it?
The simple answer is that head/line pressure is vented to atmosphere out the bottom of that bell housing. As long as it vents to atmosphere, it can do its job with no negative side effects. You can put a T on it or split it 144 ways if you wanted, but as long as it vents, you're in good shape. But since it vents pressure ONLY when the compressor shuts off, it can also be used to "trigger" other devices! This is how the Champion auto-drain works. It's plumbed into that pressure release valve. When positive pressure is vented to it, the pressure pushes a diaphragm, which opens a valve to bleed condensation from the tank.
But you could trigger just about ANYTHING from it! What did that hose go to? It went to anything that the previous owner's imagination concocted! Perhaps it ran an air-pressure-powered bell so that a bell rang when the tank reached full pressure. Perhaps it ran a pressure solenoid that would trip a counter for how many times max pressure was reached in the tank. The possibilities are endless and exciting! For your case, just know that it doesn't NEED to go to anything, but that it COULD go to anything! Hope this helps shed a bit more light on the subject.

 

[jscott14]

Question; I got new valve gaskets today but dont know which ones go where? The old ones that were in the head only had one copper and rest aluminum,[Not correct] New set has 3 copper and 4 aluminum? I look up on the diagram of the head but only says the Part No of gasket can,t tell which is copper?? Have time to help out??

Again, I know it's an old thread, but it's still worth answering for others who stumble upon it.

The gaskets are different for the low vs. high pressure cylinder. On the low pressure (larger) cylinder, the copper gasket goes between the intake valve and head. Aluminum goes on exhaust valve (which pipes to the next cylinder).

For the high pressure cylinder, the aluminum gasket goes between the valve and head, then the copper gasket with groove up goes between the valve and manifolds. Hope this helps!

 

[WagonHo!]

HI, That is really neat! Good you can do thwt, I am good with alot of things but ele. motors aint one of them.

Question; I got new valve gaskets today but dont know which ones go where? The old ones that were in the head only had one copper and rest aluminum,[Not correct] New set has 3 copper and 4 aluminum? I look up on the diagram of the head but only says the Part No of gasket can,t tell which is copper?? Have time to help out??

Great thread.
Would you post some photos of the valves and gaskets when you get them in place. The cylinder walls do look great.