To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

1979 kr2105 + kr274 restoration

RDesigns

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2013
Messages
21
Location
Illinois
Long time stalker of the board been a while since I've been on here so busy with others projects haven't had much time. Yesterday I picked up this vintage 1979 kr2105 with 2 kr274 side boxes for a roughly 600 clams. It's kinda crusty on the outside but the slides don't have any corrosion on them. I'm wanting to clean it up and take it to work but I'm torn on what I should do with the paint. Should it stay true to its roots and keep it red and just repaint the outside? Or I've kind of been thinking maybe white with black trim kinda like the new snappys? Let me here some opinions. I don't plan on selling it anytime soon or it would just go red. Thanks in advance.

 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Deej

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 9, 2009
Messages
116
Location
Colorado
I vote to keep it red. Heck, I vote to just clean it up real good and use it as is!
 

zkling

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
Well....first I would assess the mechanical condition of the box. Being all friction slides make sure there are no major issues that would hold a full restoration back. Almost looks like it was in a body shop, hopefully not. Check box side and drawer side slide channels for thinning wear, pulled spot welds, etc.

As for the repaint to white, I think that is a great idea, actually plan on painting one of my smaller boxes white with blue trim soon as a test piece. The only hesitation I have is on paint selection as in the past with some white paint I have used in a garage setting it got yellow in spots due to grease and oil. Thinking about maybe one of the appliance enamels or shooting a clear over it. :dunno:
 
OP
R

RDesigns

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2013
Messages
21
Location
Illinois
The guy was a body man but this was his home box. All the slides are good no rust or even corrosion at all just need to clean all the crusty grease off of them and re lube. If it does get painted it will be ppg base and clear job as I'm a painter by trade and I have 3/4 gallon on the shelf. Thinking black trim but might powdercoat that so it's durrable
 
OP
R

RDesigns

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2013
Messages
21
Location
Illinois
Thanks for the input guys. I tried scrubbing with multiple things and nothing was taking this grime off. Thinner didn't work neither did prepall and there's some dents and dings I wanna knock out so it looks like I'm going to repaint just not sure on color yet.
 

MattVette89

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 27, 2014
Messages
2,265
Location
SW Chicago
Nice setup!

I recently picked up the same side box you have there. Mine was also red and I wanted to paint it black to match my main box. I've already got way more hours into stripping it than I'd like. It's messy work, as well. If you had a huge blasting cabinet it might be worth it, but doing it by hand *****. I have mine primed with one light coat of black on it. Like I said, I already have probably 12-15 hours in it.

I'd try to degrease and clean those up and use them as is. If there is a lot of overspray, you might try some rubbing compound or an overspray remover.
 

bdelmar2

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 5, 2013
Messages
276
I'm not a painter/bodyguy but I have done a fair amount of it over the years here and there.

Not so long ago I painted my kr660 (b I think). It was way more work than I expected.

Granted I've never done any paint estimating so don't have any experience to speak of there. But I discovered a drawer has a lot of surface area.

The 660 is basically your box with a drawer bank attached, so with your top box and side boxes you will have quite a bit more to do surface area wise.

The shop I was working in was/is a mechanical shop belonging to a friend of mine. Things were slow so I had basically the equivalent of 2, 2 1/2 bays to work in which was a good thing as it took way more space than I thought it would also.

I had a bit more bodywork to do than it appears you do. At some point in the past my box looks like it was backed into on one side. These boxes are double walled beasts though and it didn't hurt the inner structure at all. I was able to straighten the one side and hammer a piece of box channel down the area under the aluminum vertical trim piece, A few spot welds, some drawer straightening - not a lot, like 3 drawers had face dings from the same incident, and its as strong as ever, possibly more so.

Those aluminum trim strips don't seem to be readily available btw. The vertical side ones come off pretty easy, just a few rivits. I was able to mostly straighten out my dented one and switched its location when I put it back on, and also switched up the drawers (which I didn't fill so still showed a little) looking at the box you would never know it was hit. Unless you were a bodyman and looking way harder at my box than anybody is likely to.

The aluminum trim strips on the drawers are on there with a seriousness. There are posts around about how to take them off and reattach them, but after some careful attempts to do so I decided to tape them off instead.
That took awhile, but not too bad. Less time than removing them, making a tool and reattaching them, which may or may not be as good as factory. They are on there pretty good.
Mainly I was worried about destroying one since they don't seem to be available either, or making them look worse. Plus time was getting to be a factor.

I was planning on painting everything but the inside of the box was actually in really good shape, and the outside of the inner portions of the drawers were also like new except for a half dozen areas. The guy I get my painting supplies from was able to match snap on red dead on. Not his first time, lol. So I was able to save some time and money in those areas.

Oh, before I forget, when I was power washing the box I noticed it didn't drain very well at all. Probably a good thing overall, but one never knows what will happen, so I drilled 4 small holes in the bottom of the box. I believe they are in the heavy box channel where the wheels bolt on, but its been awhile. So no direct holes into the interior, but if something gets spilled or if it should get rained on it will eventually drain.

When I got the box for $500 I figured I could fix the dent and paint it in a couple three days of moderate work, and maybe spend a $100 or so.

Ended up being a full week of more than moderate labor, and I quit counting when I passed $200 in materials. I'm pretty sure you will be faster than I am, and can probably wiggle the sandpaper, primer and what not. Maybe the paint also. Mine is SS btw, BC is going to be even more effort.

I spent $500, plus prolly $250, for a total of $750 and a week of labor for a box that's work around $1,200 to $1500ish. Oh, and drawer liner, like $50 for that I think. White lithium spray also, half dozen cans of that. Didn't come out ahead financially. I could have rustled up a headgasket job, made up the difference in a day and a half of actual moderate labor and bought a $1500 box already looking new.

Or, just used the box as it was, it was fine functionally.


My long winded way of saying, another vote for use it like it is.

If you do paint it, I'd stick with the red and maybe save yourself some time/effort and money.

Then again if you want to strip it all down to bare metal and go crazy just so you can have the satisfaction of having done it, then paint it whatever color you want. No one is going to have a real appreciation of the effort unless they have painted one themselves though.


Edit: I also have basically the same top box you do, its roughish looking and covered with stickers from my younger days. I was originally planning on painting it also, would have to force me to at gun point now though.
 
Last edited:

countryroad82

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2011
Messages
3,447
Location
Kentucky
It's an old box. Me, I would paint it any color of the rainbow as I'm a paint bodyman myself. Heck I've been debating painting my 2 year old krl7022 turquoise because I like it. It's time consuming and yes annoying but the final product is cool. Plus it puts your box out as a testament of your work. Before I found GJ I did a couple custom jobs on customer boxes to match their cars. Never thought to take pics then as at the time I was suffering a bad case of burnout and I viewed them as just another job. Wish I had taken pics, I did an awesome 60s vintage Craftsman box in turquoise for a guy to match his 57 Chevy. I've also done changes from red to black, yellow, and even did a pink box once. I can't tell you how many hand carry boxes I've done for different reasons. I find it fun to break up the monotony of working on cars.
 
OP
R

RDesigns

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2013
Messages
21
Location
Illinois
Thanks for the advice guys. I do just so happen to have a 40"x40" blast cabinet so I started to blast the drawers today. Got about 16 of the smaller ones done inside and out have 11 (of course all large ones) left. There was alot of nicks that were rusting and paint around them were bubbling so I said screw it and doing a full strip. Proly won't do all of the inside of the boxes but the sides I will do complete inside and out. I have 3/4 of a gallon (1 1/2 sprayable) here hanging out and a gallon of clear and primer so I think I got enough to do it. Figured one coat of clear on sides and bottoms of drawers and 2-3 outside of boxes and drawer fronts. As for the trim on the drawers a simple pc of wood and a hammer and they gently tap right off the ends. Anyway here's some pics.








 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
R

RDesigns

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2013
Messages
21
Location
Illinois
Possibly lol still not completely decided yet but leaning more towards it. Possibly doing a blue pearl mid coat over it also with either blue or black trim.
 
OP
R

RDesigns

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2013
Messages
21
Location
Illinois
Got most of the drawers blasted. Little bit of grease left to clean out of the slide tracks and reblast them spots. Next onto some bodywork smoothing out the fronts and such then some self etch primer followed by a coat of 2k primer and some topcoat. Anyway here's a few pics.







 

countryroad82

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2011
Messages
3,447
Location
Kentucky
Here I thought I was the only man left in the country that still used etch primer then 2K urethane instead of just using epoxy primer! I guess it's because it's what I learned with, I know it works, and I find no reason to change my ways!
 
OP
R

RDesigns

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2013
Messages
21
Location
Illinois
It depends on what I'm doing. Something like this that will see some use and it's all bare and not putting my normal 3-4 coats of base and 3-4 coats of clear I want to make sure I have a good base the body shop I just started at will etch any bare metal spots under the primer.
 

Hammer1963

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2011
Messages
2,048
Location
Kentucky
Like you and countryroad82, I prefer my tool storage clean and shiny! I use a similar method of repair depending on the condition. I recently completed a small Snap-on KRA 2007 that was plagued with surface rust but few dents. I opted for an epoxy etching primer and wet on wet 2K. I chose single stage as I had a leftover pint of Rangoon red from a recent repair on a 64 1/2 Mustang thus it was basically free. I intend on using this cab as a mobile cart and applied clear plastic chip film on the drawer fronts and a faux stainless vinyl wrap on the drawer tops. I have a pair of 16 drawer KRA 4800 series cabs I will be restoring. I intend on painting one Orange and the other Yellow. I look forward to seeing your updates
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20151216_190016.jpg
    IMG_20151216_190016.jpg
    146.4 KB · Views: 34
OP
R

RDesigns

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2013
Messages
21
Location
Illinois
Well my compressor blew up and has halted progress. New parts are ordered and on the way should be back up and running Wednesday.


 

countryroad82

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2011
Messages
3,447
Location
Kentucky
I had my old compressor take a dump while in the process of spraying the first coat of clear on an overall paint job. Wasn't a very good day although thankfully I had a junk spare compressor to hurry up and hook up before the whole job was ruined. Since then I have made sure to have a backup, can't run a body shop without a compressor!
 
OP
R

RDesigns

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2013
Messages
21
Location
Illinois
That's for sure. Luckily I wasn't spraying just sand blasting and I got it shut off quick. Although I don't have a spare. Campbell hausfeld was real good and had parts in Stock even tho it's 24 yrs old and will have them tue. $140 for new rod, crank bearing and a couple gaskets. Cylinder walls still have cross hatching in them so they should be good for a while.
 
OP
R

RDesigns

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2013
Messages
21
Location
Illinois
Well got the compressor back up and running and then within 5min of starting to blast again the vac on my blast cabinet decides to let the magic smoke out. I tried to wish it back in but no luck. So to use a shopvac and a water trap until I can afford a new vac system unless I like the way this works. Made some progress tho getting all the last little bits blasted and cleaned. Hope to paint sometime this year.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom