1986 garage floor - Coating Project options

[m_cat12]

Hi everyone. I'm new to the site so I hope it's okay if I post a few pictures of my garage floor? My wife and I recently moved in to a house built in 1986. In our previous house, we had a 1 car new construction town home that I used HD bought basic floor epoxy. It was 'ok' but considering how small the space was, I spent very little time in there so any imperfections or dirt/scratches didn't matter to me. My new home has a much bigger 2 car garage that I'll be spending much more time in.

I added a few pictures that hopefully captures the current state. To me, the concrete looks to be an absolute mess : staining, breaking up, cracks, dusting, oil, etc.

I'm an auto detailing hobbyist so I'll be using the garage in the winter to wash cars. Mostly interior work though so I can work late. In the future, I may entertain a few paying jobs on the weekends. For super detailing I'll jack up the car and remove wheels.

I'm also a golf nut. I have a 8x6 golf hitting net with a large, professional turf mat that I'll be using occasionally. It's super easy to put up and take down. I'd say 2-3 months of the year one bay will be dedicated to this hitting range.

Odd jobs, house maintenance work, etc.

I've researched what seems like countless hours on epoxy and other coatings. I thing I'm in the same boat as everyone looking for the best durability for least cost. I do know that I'm not a fan of the tiles - my preference would be a coating of some sort. My main concern is on the concrete itself. It looks to be in such a bad state that I'm wondering if I need a concrete contractor to come in and do a major overhaul or repair before I even consider a coating.

I've had quotes from Wolverine or AlphaGarage, Duraameen, ArmorGuard(I think), and EpoxyMaster. The Duraameen guy quoted 3500-4K and mentioned that basic floor grinding is all that's needed to clean up my floor.

Hope everyone is having a nice weekend!

 

[m_cat12]

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[m_cat12]

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[m_cat12]

Pic 3

 

[m_cat12]

Pic 4

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi, no epoxy coating will do much 'fixing' of a floor so if the floor is rough or defective (hard to see from the photos you supplied) it will need significant grinding first to smooth it out prior to coating. Use of a full broadcast of flecks also helps greatly to hide irregularities.

If the texture is not that much of an issue then any standard three layer epoxy system would work well.

 

[m_cat12]

Hi Armorpoxy! Thanks for responding. I think your right; ill definitely need to grind first to smooth everything out. I took some additional pics today so hopefully they display what my floor condition looks like better than my earlier pics.

If i were to describe what im seeing:
-2 car 700+ sq ft
-where the tires sit, that part of the garage is very rough and rocky. Consistent dust and chipping away
-noticeable hairline cracks. Very small and sparse.
-underneath the cars, and surrounding areas, are stained, oil and chemical. A bit of a sheen also
-several places look like the previous owner added a patch layer of concrete.

Maybe the rough areas are actually a good thing for adhesion? The stained areas definitely have me concerned. Would grinding be sufficient to clean off the stained areas?

Level and smooth are important to me. I guess i thought that a floor coating system with high milage would help level, fill in rough spots, and smooth the surface. If not then what are the options for floor repair or smoothing?

Thanks everyone for your help!

 

[m_cat12]

 

[m_cat12]

 

[m_cat12]

 

[m_cat12]

 

[m_cat12]

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Need to hit that floor with a true self-leveling coating, not standard epoxy.


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[m_cat12]

Ok. So i think what everyone is telling me is that my floor does not require a massive repair - like patching, pouring new, etc. And i only need to grind the surface clean and smooth. Then applying an epoxy system should have no problems.

Or am i oversimplifying? Im sure this project is going to kick my ****.

 

[m_cat12]

First, I do want to say 'Thank You' to the many helpful folks on this forum. I've reached out to many of you and you've answered my questions and concerns. Without your guidance, I (and the other noobs) could have made a costly mistake.

I'm finally about to make a decision. However I do have a question about a recommended plan that seems to have come out of nowhere. NPI or National Polymers:
First grind, then concrete patch, then grind again. Then apply the following NPI products-
Primer: 820 OIL STOP EPOXY PRIMER
Epoxy: 181LVP FAST SET LOW VISC EPOXY COATING
Top Coat: 449 POLYASPARTIC URETHANE CLEAR- 2 Coats

I could not find any information on National Polymers, and in particular the 449 product. I reached out to NPI via email have not received a response.

With that said, if anyone has had experience with NPI, or see any red flags with the plan above, it would be very helpful.

Cheers and as always thank you.


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[Armorpoxy]

We distribute some National Polymer Products and can obtain these for you. National will not sell direct.

A more standard system would be the Oil Stop primer, 100% solids epoxy and standard 2 part topcoat
Your choice is a non standard system but please call our office in a Monday and we can get you a quote.

Thank you very much.


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[bdamico]

Too bad it wasn't built in 1988.

 

[Jazz1]

I am thinking laminate flooring,, something with a distressed look.

 

[Roberts210]

You should read this recent Thread on epoxy over a garage floor:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=318550

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi
Please pm us your email address, we have some helpful info to send you about this project based on the photos. The floor, in our opinion has a lot of damage that will not be corrected with an epoxy alone without significant prep work or re-capping.

 

[m_cat12]

Morning all- quick question

Am i wrong to assume that i should be signing a 'contract' for my floor project?

Im kicking myself because im very meticulous with research and reviews on all of my large projects. For some reason, I sent my contractor a size able deposit without signing an agreement, quote, description of agreed upon services, warranty, etc.

Ive been in contact with the vendor after almost 10 days of not getting a response. I requested a contract and references. At this point, the guy could tell me to take a hike and keep my money!

Not cool.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Yes, reputable installers have a proposal, clear terms&conditions. The deposit should be recorded on both copies, same with balance payment.


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[Armorpoxy]

Yes, best practice is always to get a proposal outlining the work to be performed and materials to be used. Our Installation Division always furnishes a written proposal for the client to sign prior to us taking a deposit and starting work. Avoids conflict and future problems!