1x12x10' cedar siding

[MeNeedGarage]

I've got a load of 1x12x10' cedar planks that I'm going to use for siding in my shop. I have a 3' tin waynes coating, the planks will be installed vertically above that. There is a horizontal beam 8' above the tops of the waynes coating. There is about a 4' gap between the top of the 2x4 framing, and the top horizontal beam.

My question is about the 4' gap. Should there be some additional framing in the gap, or will it be ok to install the planks as is?

I hope this makes sense. Also, I have lots of self taping bolts that I can use to fasten the planks to the metal beams, and the studs. What should I consider using to fasten the planks to the wood, and the metal. I'm mostly concerned on what will look nice?

 

[Chris705]

I think you can get away with fastening at 48". Can you fasten a nailer to the flange of your steel beam (either above or below the flange - bolt or shoot the nailer in place) To fasten the cedar use ring shanked nails, 3-4 spaced across the board at each nailer location. Consider creating ship-lap joints so as the cedar dries the joints won't open allowing you to see thru to the sub structure. A router can easily create that joint w/o too much work. I say this with the assumption you won't want to put up shelving....

 

[MeNeedGarage]

I think you can get away with fastening at 48". Can you fasten a nailer to the flange of your steel beam (either above or below the flange - bolt or shoot the nailer in place) To fasten the cedar use ring shanked nails, 3-4 spaced across the board at each nailer location. Consider creating ship-lap joints so as the cedar dries the joints won't open allowing you to see thru to the sub structure. A router can easily create that joint w/o too much work. I say this with the assumption you won't want to put up shelving....

I'm probably going to put up one shelf kind of high to put old stuff on. I don't think that will be a problem for the technique you mentioned?

Allen


P.S. any special instructions on make a ship lap joint?

 

[Chris705]

I think you'd have good results with a rabbit bit and the clamp on depth guide. The fence style guide that limits the depth of cut . Set the rabbit cutting depth to 1/2 the material thickness and I would think a 3/8" fence setting would cover board shrinkage.

If you do put up a shelf make sure to catch the horizontal blocking with your self standards or screw in the board to the blocking where he brackets land.

 

[MeNeedGarage]

What do you think about fastening to the beam itself? I can use a wood to metal screw?

 

[Chris705]

I think you'd have an easier go of it if you fasten a 2x4 nailer to the beam flange. Isn't it a heavy steel section? If you'd rather try to use self tapping screws that's something you'll have to decide.

Are those mtl bldg girts? Then yes I guess screws would work but they will be visible. Nails are a lot less noticeable.

 

[MeNeedGarage]

Chris705, I like your idea. Nails will be less visible. Plus it will give me a reason to buy a nail gun. It's a tool and a gun all in one. Can't go wrong there.

 

[MeNeedGarage]

If the planks are 3/4" thick, would I use a 1-1/2" ring shanked nail?

 

[MeNeedGarage]

Another question. The wood is all dry, and some of the edges have wayne on them. Do you still think it's a good idea to use the rabbit/ship lap method? Or would it be ok to do the work without it?

 

[Chris705]

The nails will be good. While you can not do the rabbit, I would recommend more if the wood is warped. Perhaps use screws to hang a few temp in place to see if you can live with gaps between the boards.

I'd rip the boards with questionable wayne on them.

 

[MeNeedGarage]

Chris705,

I've been working on this with the rabit and nails. I get it now. Where there are gaps there is no light between the gaps. The insulation behind the boards is white, so it might be real ugly if I did it without the rabbits.

So, I need to build cabinets in my shop. What about building cabinets with the same planks?

I'm thinking it might be better to use a plywood?

Thoughts?

Allen

 

[tcianci]

You could snap a couple of lines perpendicular to the existing wood framing, 3-1/2 inches apart and parallel to the metal framing. Do this mid span between your wainscoting and the top of the job. Use a router and carve out a 3/4" deep recess in each of the studs to let in a 1x4 nailer so your planks will can be fastened mid span and remain flat.

Self drilling screws are the ticket for fastening your wood to the metal for sure, just not pretty. You could bury the screws with a horizontal strip when you're done. Also the ship-lap milling of the planks will make for a nice looking joint treatment and it will also allow you to fasten each plank plumb, regardless of whether or not the edges of the boards are currently or will remain parallel as they go through seasonal changes.

 

[Chris705]

Plywood will be easier to use for cabinets than the individual boards. For a garage I would think you could find used or at a second hand store. Maybe even an auction would have some options.

 

[MeNeedGarage]

Chris705,
I'd like to learn the process of building cabinets, doing this in my shop is more about learning the process.

Allen

 

[MeNeedGarage]

Are there any thoughts about using the same lumber as a french cleat. I'm going to put a french cleat about where the nails are 8', the cleat would cover the nails, but is the cedar a good wood for that use?

Also, the cleat will no be fully used so some of it will always be visible. That's the reason I'm considering using cedar?