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2 9/16" impact axle socket?

moronmountain

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So Sunex makes extra thin walled impact axle sockets, but the go from 2 1/2" to 2 3/4". Does anyone make a 2 9/16" impact AXLE (meaning extra thin walled) socket? I rounded out the 1/2" drive Lisle axle socket I have, and need something harder.
 
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scott37300

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Are you talking about these, http://www.tooldesk.com/automotive/OTC6928-OTC-12-Dr-Rounded-Hex-Dana-2916-Axle-Nut-Socket.aspx?

OTC-6928b.jpg
 

BlindViper

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Did you round out the hex or the drive end? If you did the drive end I would be tempted to weld a socket on there.
 
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moronmountain

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Did you round out the hex or the drive end? If you did the drive end I would be tempted to weld a socket on there.

Drive end, but I worry about the hex end. I've actually gave this some thought. It's just that the socket itself doesn't really fit the nut THAT tight to begin with. I'm not sure what else I can do though that won't completely ruin the threads on the axle.
 

whatsitsname

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Are u using a cheater bar? If you have impact I would try tightening then loosening to break any rust.
 
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moronmountain

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Are u using a cheater bar? If you have impact I would try tightening then loosening to break any rust.

Oh yeah. A cheater with an extension on it, and a 42" prybar through the pumkin to keep it from rotating. The Dana 70 lifts off the ground rather than the nut turning.
 

whatsitsname

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You should take a picture close up and afar then we can recommend some course of action base on accessible space and whatnot. I think its time to bring in the torch.
 
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moronmountain

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You should take a picture close up and afar then we can recommend some course of action base on accessible space and whatnot. I think its time to bring in the torch.

I'll try and get a pic up, but it's a pretty tight fit in there. My buddy mentioned a torch to cut it off. Is that what you're thinking?
 

whatsitsname

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I'll try and get a pic up, but it's a pretty tight fit in there. My buddy mentioned a torch to cut it off. Is that what you're thinking?

Nooo. Torch to heat up the nut. But you have to bang/hammer/impact at the nut once its heated. Cheater bar is not recommended. You can use a hand impact if you don't have an impact wrench. Strike it with a Big hammer.
 
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johnsdeere850j

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Oklahoma
Yes 2-9/16 is correct...I just use the special one from napa, it works fine. the dana nut has funny rounded edges

edit: i haven't done the seals on a dodge in a while but if I remember right you can whack a 2 1/2 axle nut socket on there for a tighter fit
 
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bgott

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When I was a country kid, before I became sophisticated and started buying special tools and such, I removed those nuts with a chisel and a hammer. Aim the chisel in the direction you want it to turn, near the points, and whale away. You can clean the divots up with a file once you get the nut off, if you are picky.
 

diesel research

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I used to do that as well. BUT don't do that in this case. You have a nut stuck on tight enough to sheer the square drive, so a chisel/punch is just going to make a mess.

Replace the nuts/washer so you don't go through this again. Clean the spindle threads with a thread file.
 

83diesel

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I always thought the Dana axles used the rounded tool with the 3/4 drive as mentioned above. With a 3/4 pull bar and cheater pipe it will come loose. Probably not getting all the torque to the nut when the socket is trying to slip past the jam nut. Check the threads and make sure it is left hand or right hand threads. Some axle components over the years used reversed threads to keep the nuts from loosening going down the road and would actually supposed to tighten up.

All else fails punch and chisel and torch. Buy new jam nuts when you get done destroying them.
 
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