Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT 2 car + detached build

[billconner]

Ordinary 8x16x8 - mostly 2 cell stretchers but a few sash blocks - except top course (and a few below) are knock out bond beam blocks, probably what looks non-standard. I put rebar and grout in vertical cells every 4' (6 cells) and the top course. The bond beam happens to make it easy to place anchors exactly where I want.

As far as I can tell, I don't really need the rebar - vertical nor bond beam - but cheaper than hiring an engineer to say so.

 

[billconner]

Finished surface bond cement. Learned a lot about SBC. Never do it on hot humid days. Gets too stiff to fast. I was able to do almost twice as much on a day in mid 70s vs high 80s. Getting the mix just right was also tricky. Adding the max amount of water made it easier. The YouTube's show it even softer but I stuck to instructions.

Still have to grout. Amish just sent a snailmail lumber is ready. Lots to do.

 

[mike93lx]

What type of concrete blocks are those? They don’t look like standard concrete blocks like used with mortar.

Looks like just the bottom course had the webs broken out for rebarm rest look normal to me.

 

[billconner]

The footer is 12" bond beam blockes with 2 #4 rebar and grout. the subsequent courses are normal 8" block except top course is bond beam blocks with 1 #4 rebar and - not yet placed - grout. Vertical rebars every 4', those cells also to be grouted. Overbuilt. I think I could have left out the rebar and grout in the 8", probably also left out rebar in footer. I'd need an engineer to say ok to 8". Building code does not require rebar in footers in my seismic zone. Definitely overbuilt.

 

[billconner]

First load of lumber - walls and sheathing - arrived today. Approx 2150 board feet for $1300 + $200 delivery.

 

[billconner]

And someone asked about top course of blocks - bond beam - and rebar. A closer look.

 

[billconner]

Progress. Finished foundation wall, core filling last, Saturday. Traded masonry tools for framing tools and put down 2x8 plates Sunday.

Monday was final day with excavator - removing asphalt and excavating for a long low retaining wall separating a terrace level as patio from existing garage - to become a room this winter - and lower, near level driveway for new garage.

Tuesday started wall framing and dipped into sheathing. Front sans headers (missed in lumber order) and left side. Kind of like balloon framing, setting up and bracing a few studs, adding top plate, and setting studs.

Very happy. Probably 10% over budget and about 2 weeks behind, but gaining. Foundation was to be mid June till August 1, but that took longer; at least wall framing going faster so hopefully will frame roof by end of September.

 

[mike93lx]

Looking good

 

[billconner]

Thanks!

Terrace plan (with next springs bump out the porch project).

 

[captain14]

Progress!

Are you doing the framing by yourself?

 

[billconner]

Progress!

Are you doing the framing by yourself?

Other than a few days of bil helping mix concrete, it's all solo. Several clamps and a bundle of furring strips help a lot. My son will visit me for roof framing and roofing I believe. I'll need help with the 2x10x16' rafters - in the 80 pound range.

 

[jack stand]

Great progress Bill! I'm just now catching up, I though I was subscribed. This "foundation" and mortarless block wall is fascinating.
Good call on waiting for your son for the rafters.
I just finished sawing and installing r/s 2x10x16 hemlock rafters for the lean to across the back of the sawmill building that I've been building, but I had full 2 bearing points. Much easier than working to a ridge, at least by yourself.
Is you're target to get it dryed in before winter?

 

[billconner]

Same size rafters, and I haven't quite worked out how to erect them. Temporarily support ridge board? (a 2x10).

Yes, hope to finish walls including sheathing this coming week. Attic and roof framing material (and siding) arrive in 2 weeks. Hopefully I can get roof framing and sheathing as well as asphalt shingles up by end of September.

Simple barn sash detail - 19 - and have to move overhead doors from existing garage - but that could wait till spring (though building out existing garage is supposed to be winter project).

 

[jack stand]

I think the little bit of extra work laying out and supporting an actual ridge beam is worth it even if it's only 10-12' long. Build a temp leg at the end, set the 2 opposing rafters and you have a fairly stable "frame" to work to. Repeat down to the end. Just observe for wall spread and level (or measure) the ridge as you go.

 

[billconner]

It shouldn't be too hard as I plan to install attic joists - aka rafter ties - on top plates and center beam, and deck that wall to wall. Then top of ridge is about 6'-4" above attic deck. I figured something like you described could work. Still uncertain if gable walls are before or after rafters. Could be a step ladder with some blocks is about right. I think working from attic deck I can also install enough 1x8 sheathing to keep it stable.

Unrelated but one advantage to rough sawn 2x6 studs - they easily stand on their own.

 

[billconner]

Hadn't mentioned it yet but another benefit to this diy is loosing weight. I started this project around 240, now just a little over 210. I hope by completion to be at grad school weight of around 190. Do I count cost of new cloths as part of the project?

 

[jack stand]

Unrelated but one advantage to rough sawn 2x6 studs - they easily stand on their own.

The only downside to full dimension lumber is the fastener, my "regular" nailers are good for 3 1/2" nails but nobody stocks them and 3 1/4
just doesn't get it building a wall on the ground driving nails through the plates.
I did buy a monster nail gun that shoots up to a 5" nail and they're cheaper than screws, but it's heavy and cumbersome on a ladder or scaffolding.
I do use a lot of screws.

 

[captain14]

Hadn't mentioned it yet but another benefit to this diy is loosing weight. I started this project around 240, now just a little over 210. I hope by completion to be at grad school weight of around 190. Do I count cost of new cloths as part of the project?

Sure. You need a uniform to do the construction work and another uniform to work on your projects. Of course we can’t expect you to do laundry everyday, so go splurge.

A friend that did framing could not keep any weight on during the summer.

Since I retired, my daily uniform is shorts and a tee shirt.

 

[billconner]

Finished wall framing including 32' 8x12 main beam - over 800 pounds all in - albeit 8 pieces 16' 3x8. Relocated work area (tarp shelter) and cleared out all but wall sheathing on anticipation of dumping 6" of gravel and compacting it. Tieing it into resting wall and patio/sidewalk/apron work.

 

[billconner]

Ordered blick, SBC, rebar, remedy, expansion strips, form stakes, 4" perf drain pipe with sick and fittings. Got to o pick up some 2x6 and 2x8 for forms. Still need poly for garage interior slab (may put that off to spring). Hopefully that leaves only the concrete and crew for the contractor to pour and finish.

Completely rearranged work site with flat work in mind.

Slab check: 5" where there is vehicular traffic, 4 where just pedestrian. 6" base - hoping to find 3/4 or 1" clear. 6x6 1.6w (10 guage) remesh in 5x10 sheets, overlap 6". Contractor says 4000 psi mix (7 bag?) Air entrainment for exterior. Broom finish. Trowel in garage. Wondering about admixtures to reduce water. What am I forgetting?

 

[billconner]

Progress as of quitting time today. You can just start to see the 7 windows on the street side.

 

[jack stand]

Bill that looks like full 2" lumber. I know it's "rough sawn" but some will cut at the 1 1/2" like finished 2x's.
I use this (r/s) a lot and I'm curious about what fasteners you decided on.
I use a lot of 4" #10 screws and several years ago bought a nail gun that shoots up to a 5" nail.
Both are more expensive than "regular" fasteners for dressed materials. Working alone I favor the screws, but if I'm standing up walls I'll use the 100# (not really) nail gun to nail through the plates into the studs.
Looks great and your making great progress.

 

[billconner]

Thank you.

It is nearly full size - varied 1 3/4 to 2" thick and rarely an 1/8" under nominal width, some over. And all 6 to 18" longer than nominal (paid for) length. I've been using 16d cc box nails for most framing, and 8d cc box for 1x8 sheathing. I started with my Paslode F350s, but it suddenly started leaking so switched to hammer and nails, till the rebuild kit show up. Studs are toe nailed - built in place - no way I'm could lift one of these walls up onto the high stem walls. I assume like balloon framing - erect and brace corner studs and work along wall one stud at a time after getting a top plate on.

I'll use 6" Timberloks for rafters and joists to top plate, plan to get 7 1/2" for 8" columns and beam. I also feel the full 1x8 diagonal wood board sheathing ties things together, and then it gets barn board on top of it.

 

[billconner]

A little progress - all window - 19 - headers and sills except at panel problem. Moved sheathing lumber out do floor prep can proceed. Have decided on a slab instead of pavers. Need to speed up sheathing install, which just having it outside will help.

 

[billconner]

Sidetracked by retaing wall and exteriorpaving. Going well. Photos show garage end.

Wanted to put base gravel down in garage. Gave in and rented a dingo. I sort of got it spread around but I am definitely not a machine operator. Looks like a battlefield. Rake and shovel to finish I guess.

 

[billconner]

Worked late today. Having my son here is fantastic. Rafters at front and back, 4 up, 42 more to go.

 

[billconner]

Cut the last (expletive deleted) rafter. A dozen or so up in the rain. Would like to get enough up to measure for metal roofing - a change from my plans for asphalt. Order by 10:30 Monday, I get it by end of Tuesday.

 

[billconner]

Roof sheathing complete! Hooray for son power! Gable sheathing early tomorrow, followed by roofing, with concrete for patio stairs in afternoon.

 

[billconner]

I'll post pics tomorrow but roofing is 100% done. Siding, windows (19 barn sash), doors (2 @ 10x8 & 1 @ 3x6-8), and slab (spring I think for that). Tomorrow is major exterior patio/slab - around 550 sf - and apron pour and finish. I did all prep - just finished remesh and oiled forms - but paying a crew to do pour and finish.

Then I'm going to rest for a week and hopefully get my knee repaired. I've been limping a lot and a lot of pain, but finally ok if it snows (after this weekend).

 

[billconner]

Trying to work with a bad knee is hard but I got first window (of 19) in today with some siding. Should go faster now I know all the parts and can mass produce them.

Still need to find or make Z flashing for head. Battens (which is also window trim) in spring, after boards shrink. May hinge a few window but just interior stops for now. Thinking with a gable exhaust fan I may not need operable windows.