2 feet deep brackets?

[devilish]

originally, I wanted to put fixed 2x4 wood shelving in the garage (50 feet wide, 10 feet high space) and then put barn doors in front of it to hide everything and keep it clean.

As I’m thinking more, I think behind the barn doors instead of using permanent wood shelving I think a track with adjustable brackets might make more sense. that way I have flexibility of moving shelves as my need change.

I was going to make the shelves 2 feet deep but I can’t really find any metal brackets that are 2 feet deep. my garage is deep enough that I would like to keep the 2 feet depth or even ok with 2.5-3 feet depth for shelves.

any suggestions or has anyone seen brackets like that? any other creative ways to do this?

 

[cvairwerks]

About as close as you will get....

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Style-Selections-3-38-in-White-Shelf-Bracket/4640261

 

[gungatim]

Menards has the 20" deep steel ones, I have a pair with a 24" plywood shelf resting on it for a wine fridge. The brackets don't need to be the full 24", nothing wrong with a little overhang.

They also sell the folding 24" shelf brackets, lots of people use those for a folding workbench.

Just use a web browser with a search engine, there are lots of sources.

 

[carlaisle]

Check out Knape & Vogt. They have multiple adjustable options in 24" depth. At 36" you're looking at commercial cantilever racking that will run you $100 - $200 per linear foot. The engineering of the wall in question is relevant here. 24" deep shelves 10' tall can hold a lot of weight. Are you looking to store styrofoam balls or lead acid batteries?

 

[devilish]

Check out Knape & Vogt. They have multiple adjustable options in 24" depth. At 36" you're looking at commercial cantilever racking that will run you $100 - $200 per linear foot. The engineering of the wall in question is relevant here. 24" deep shelves 10' tall can hold a lot of weight. Are you looking to store styrofoam balls or lead acid batteries?

Just the usual Costco storage boxes, garden ****, bags, the usual garage stuff.

I wanted 2 feet depth at a minimum to be able to put the Costco boxes in lengthwise. That will utilize the space I have better. Those boxes are 30 inches so I figured 24 inches is the minimum depth I need. 24 also works better with storing chairs, lawn cushions, extra chairs etc.

Thanks for this recommendation! The 182 series seems to be the cheapest one with 24 inch depth.

 

[CraigStu]

Another option depending on how the ceiling joists run is to suspend the outer edge of your shelves from the ceiling. Use chain or plastic coated cable. Or support them from the floor w/ pipe/square tube, or 1x3s, or 2x2s.

 

[WildBill]

About as close as you will get....

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Style-Selections-3-38-in-White-Shelf-Bracket/4640261

I used these over my roll up garage doors for storage, worked great. Keep a bunch of light but bulky car stuff up there like interior panels and trim pieces. Have 20ft x 2ft wide shelf space running above the two doors.

 

[Tinkerer2]

182 Series 24" Double Slot Shelf Bracket

82 Series 63" Double Slotted Shelf Standard

Double slotted shelf standards - various lengths

I used the items in the first 2 links and they have been great. I had some left over 1/2 OSB so I cut it into 2'x3' pieces (to fit my space width). Glued and screwed 2 pieces together to make the shelf. Remember that the standard does not have to go to the floor or all the way to the ceiling.

 

[wssix99]

I use FastRak for my shallow shelving and really like it: https://buyrack.com/pages/fastrak-bulk-rack

You can get the 24" depth and load the things up with serious weight. (You will be limited with a cantilever system.)

 

[devilish]

I use FastRak for my shallow shelving and really like it: https://buyrack.com/pages/fastrak-bulk-rack

You can get the 24" depth and load the things up with serious weight. (You will be limited with a cantilever system.)

Challenge is that this does not go high enough. I intend to use the 10 feet ceilings to stack all the way up!

 

[devilish]

182 Series 24" Double Slot Shelf Bracket

82 Series 63" Double Slotted Shelf Standard

Double slotted shelf standards - various lengths

I used the items in the first 2 links and they have been great. I had some left over 1/2 OSB so I cut it into 2'x3' pieces (to fit my space width). Glued and screwed 2 pieces together to make the shelf. Remember that the standard does not have to go to the floor or all the way to the ceiling.

this is amazing - seems liek the best option! The standard or brackets are pricey though...

 

[wssix99]

Challenge is that this does not go high enough. I intend to use the 10 feet ceilings to stack all the way up!

That link has 2' deep, 10' high racks. Although, for a 10' ceiling, you would only want a 8' rack. Storing materials to the ceiling is a huge fire hazard and the 8' top shelf would give you space to put items on top and keep an air gap on top of that.

On the slender racks, you would also need to tie them into the wall and floor for stabilization, but I expect that would not be an issue for you.

 

[MovingAlong]

As I’m thinking more, I think behind the barn doors instead of using permanent wood shelving I think a track with adjustable brackets might make more sense. that way I have flexibility of moving shelves as my need change.

Build it out with 2x4s, use screws. As your needs change, unscrew the shelf from the back wall and front supports - adjust accordingly, screw back in...

 

[Viper98912]

2 feet is pretty deep, be aware of how much weight you're going to put on there if you're only doing it as a cantilever.

 

[niget2002]

At 2' feet deep, I'd be looking more at stand-alone shelf systems and not brackets off of the wall. You could mount doors on the front of the shelves to hide them.

 

[devilish]

Just calculated and KV shelves are going to be just $1500+ for standards and brackets. The brackets are a bomb at $9+ each!
I think I am back to wood shelving now... I can't find a more reasonable way to have adjustable shelving...

I wanted to keep the totes depthwise (30 inches), hence the need for 24 inch shelf depth. But to save costs I can even keep them sideways (~20 inches tote depth now) and reduce shelf depth need to be 16 inches. KV are still damn expensive, so looking at other options.

If you know, please share....

 

[devilish]

At 2' feet deep, I'd be looking more at stand-alone shelf systems and not brackets off of the wall. You could mount doors on the front of the shelves to hide them.

I will be building barn doors from the top of the garage to hide everything... but the idea of having adjustable shelves was very appealing for long term. In the past house I built wood shelves (free standing) and it was extremely solid but was limited by inability to move shelves.

 

[devilish]

2 feet is pretty deep, be aware of how much weight you're going to put on there if you're only doing it as a cantilever.

Not very heavy stuff... just the usual, but wanted 24 inches depth as the costco totes are 32 deep.

 

[devilish]

Maybe I'm not thinking right... what would you do with this space?

Adding some pics here for context. Just got the garage done - Polyspartic flooring, painted all walls, lighting. So happy with that! I plan on adding barn doors going across the entire back to hide all the storage.

The red boxes is where I'd like to create wall mounted adjustable shelving

Items to be stored - black costco totes (30 inch long, 20 in wide, 16 inch height) , travel bags, random stuff that doesnt fit in totes, patio cushions for winter, extra dining chairs, garden tools, extra set of tires for my fun car, few boxes of car supplies and stuff, etc. The usual
The Pic with stuff is likely 75% of what needs to be stored. Rest is not shown in pics.

Goal is to get everything on this wall, hide it with barn doors so the garage is no longer cluttered and we can actually park in all 3 bays.

The barn doors would be mounted on the ceiling but with wheels so its not putting weight only on joists. (that's going to be another fun summer project!)

What would you do?

 

[Tinkerer2]

Just calculated and KV shelves are going to be just $1500+ for standards and brackets. The brackets are a bomb at $9+ each!
I think I am back to wood shelving now... I can't find a more reasonable way to have adjustable shelving...

I wanted to keep the totes depthwise (30 inches), hence the need for 24 inch shelf depth. But to save costs I can even keep them sideways (~20 inches tote depth now) and reduce shelf depth need to be 16 inches. KV are still damn expensive, so looking at other options.

If you know, please share....

Buy once - cry once. Will last a lifetime.

 

[niget2002]

Curious, but do you really think you'll change the shelf heights in the future? For me, once I have storage built for the things I want to store in that place, the storage itself never changes. Especially if you're standardizing on the tote size.

I have a combination of wooden shelves that can pretty much never be changed and some of the heavy duty steel husky shelves from Home Depot. Technically the shelf heights can be adjusted on the Husky, but I'd have to empty the entire unit to do it.

My wooden shelf isn't completely free standing. It's lag bolted to the wall with braces on the front. I built the shelf heights for the containers I owned at the time. I built mine 24" deep so I could get 2 shelves out of each sheet of plywood.

 

[wssix99]

What would you do?

Garages are for cars. Odds are you will never use 85% of the stuff in those bins ever again.

I would either:
1) pick the least expensive solution that makes you happy
2) pick a shelving system you can move somewhere else or into a storage unit and make use of it later

 

[Norcal]

Curious, but do you really think you'll change the shelf heights in the future? For me, once I have storage built for the things I want to store in that place, the storage itself never changes. Especially if you're standardizing on the tote size.

I have a combination of wooden shelves that can pretty much never be changed and some of the heavy duty steel husky shelves from Home Depot. Technically the shelf heights can be adjusted on the Husky, but I'd have to empty the entire unit to do it.

My wooden shelf isn't completely free standing. It's lag bolted to the wall with braces on the front. I built the shelf heights for the containers I owned at the time. I built mine 24" deep so I could get 2 shelves out of each sheet of plywood.

Bankers Boxes

I built shelves in my garage similar, just used 4X4's for the posts, & used 3/4" particle board w/ plastic laminate on both sides, they were recycled from obsolete microfiche viewers I bought at auction, built others with 7/16" OSB that were filled with Bankers Boxes filled with records & we all know how heavy paper is.

 

[devilish]

Curious, but do you really think you'll change the shelf heights in the future? For me, once I have storage built for the things I want to store in that place, the storage itself never changes. Especially if you're standardizing on the tote size.

I have a combination of wooden shelves that can pretty much never be changed and some of the heavy duty steel husky shelves from Home Depot. Technically the shelf heights can be adjusted on the Husky, but I'd have to empty the entire unit to do it.

My wooden shelf isn't completely free standing. It's lag bolted to the wall with braces on the front. I built the shelf heights for the containers I owned at the time. I built mine 24" deep so I could get 2 shelves out of each sheet of plywood.

Your image here is very close to what I wanted to do initially. My wife disliked the look of this similar one I built in the previous garage.... and so I pivoted to metal shelves, with the added advantage of it being easy to change.

 

[niget2002]

Your image here is very close to what I wanted to do initially. My wife disliked the look of this similar one I built in the previous garage.... and so I pivoted to metal shelves, with the added advantage of it being easy to change.

Yeah. I can see where that could happen.

I have the larger heavy duty husky shelves in the shop. They're metal and look good. My problem in the garage is the floor is slightly sloped. To keep the shelves level, I had to make the legs different lengths between the bottom shelf and the floor.

Not sure if any of the metal shelves have adjustable feet.

 

[devilish]

Yeah. I can see where that could happen.

I have the larger heavy duty husky shelves in the shop. They're metal and look good. My problem in the garage is the floor is slightly sloped. To keep the shelves level, I had to make the legs different lengths between the bottom shelf and the floor.

Not sure if any of the metal shelves have adjustable feet.

They would be wall mounted, so not really a concern

 

[wyb2]

Curious, but do you really think you'll change the shelf heights in the future? For me, once I have storage built for the things I want to store in that place, the storage itself never changes. Especially if you're standardizing on the tote size.

I have a combination of wooden shelves that can pretty much never be changed and some of the heavy duty steel husky shelves from Home Depot. Technically the shelf heights can be adjusted on the Husky, but I'd have to empty the entire unit to do it.

My wooden shelf isn't completely free standing. It's lag bolted to the wall with braces on the front. I built the shelf heights for the containers I owned at the time. I built mine 24" deep so I could get 2 shelves out of each sheet of plywood.

I would second this approach (it’s what I did)

 

[niget2002]

They would be wall mounted, so not really a concern

I wasn't so much afraid of them falling over, but unlevel shelves drive me nuts.

 

[devilish]

I would second this approach (it’s what I did)

Nice! Led lights inside ?

 

[devilish]

Curious, but do you really think you'll change the shelf heights in the future? For me, once I have storage built for the things I want to store in that place, the storage itself never changes. Especially if you're standardizing on the tote size.

I have a combination of wooden shelves that can pretty much never be changed and some of the heavy duty steel husky shelves from Home Depot. Technically the shelf heights can be adjusted on the Husky, but I'd have to empty the entire unit to do it.

My wooden shelf isn't completely free standing. It's lag bolted to the wall with braces on the front. I built the shelf heights for the containers I owned at the time. I built mine 24" deep so I could get 2 shelves out of each sheet of plywood.

Nice! One advantage of this is that I could potentially do overhangs on the top and then hang the barn doors on it.

 

[astrohip]

I notice you stopped the shelves before the wall, creating an open gap at the end. What was your thinking behind that? It seems like an interesting approach if you have some special storage needs with height.

 

[niget2002]

I notice you stopped the shelves before the wall, creating an open gap at the end. What was your thinking behind that? It seems like an interesting approach if you have some special storage needs with height.

Work in progress picture. I ran out of plywood and had to go get more.

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

I built these shelves two feet deep for interior shop storage. And what I did was attach them to the wall studs but included a leg to rest on the floor so it carries the load. This system works pretty well but obviously not adjustable. However, outside I just completed this shelving. I used fixed position shelving up top for very heavy material. Then I attached adjustable shelving below. It sounds like you're looking for something that may not exist so you're maybe going to have to fabricate something. To work the way you want. I wanted the flexibility of heavy storage. But then also able to adjust shelving as I went. Hence the combo.

 

[outinthetallgrass]

How about something like this? I have several of these in my garage.
https://www.menards.com/main/storag...d-frame/mer3096/p-1642874270689966-c-9540.htm

 

[wyb2]

Nice! Led lights inside ?

Yeah, they’ve worked out pretty well for preventing the shelves from becoming caves.

I used those flexible LED strings, but something like this that comes with brackets might go in faster:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CD814LFK?tag=atomicindus08-20

No reason you couldn’t add the same thing to some metal pre-made units.

 

[devilish]

Thanks everyone, appreciate the helpful comments and suggestions.

Looks like I'm going to build wooden shelves and call it good.

 

[Dig Doug]

I had a series of these strung together strong durable and flexable. They are like pallet racking.

you don’t need to use the bottom shelf or the top shelf - recycle it to use in the next bay!
All you have to do is skin the outside.

The problem w/ barn door is they need to be stacked like a bypass ( think sliding closet doors) or keep a bay open
a triple door system would be ideal but it gets complicated

 

[Dig Doug]

Barn door style hardware

 

[devilish]

I had a series of these strung together strong durable and flexable. They are like pallet racking.

you don’t need to use the bottom shelf or the top shelf - recycle it to use in the next bay!
All you have to do is skin the outside.

The problem w/ barn door is they need to be stacked like a bypass ( think sliding closet doors) or keep a bay open
a triple door system would be ideal but it gets complicated

Hi Doug, Why wouldn't double doors work? I'm thinking it's 28 feet, so can do like 5.X sized doors and split it between the tracks?

 

[Dig Doug]

I think the length could present an access problem.

At 1st I was thinking of it like a closet door. I know it would be a problem for my wife, we just bought new closet doors & she wanted it as wide open as possible. It may not be a problem for you.

I guess it depends on how much open access you want, or could live with.

here is the math -

28 ft is long. Do you split it up in
half… 14 ft 2 rows
or
3rds 9.3ft 3 rows

2 rows are 14’ + door over lap = 14 ft open space with all of them pushed to one side.

door size w/ 2 rows of 3 doors total would be 6 doors @ 4.8 ft wide plus door overlap


3 rows is 9.3‘ + door over lap = 18.7 ft open space with all of them pushed to one side

door size w/ 3 rows of 3 doors total would be 9 doors @ 3.1 ft wide plus door overlap
3 rows of 2 doors total would be 6 doors @ 4.6 ft wide plus door over lap

kinda confusing

Hope that helps