2 Part Epoxy Paint on Basement Floor - Questions

[HandyFS]

I'm doing some basement clean up getting the walls painted on a new to me property, and while at it I want to paint the floors. I've never used the 2-part epoxy, only the 1 part which is basically just normal paint. I'd like to go 2-part epoxy with the hope that its even more durable than the 1 part.

Anyone here go through the motions and process of prepping and painting a basement with 2-part epoxy? Hoping some of you can chime in with your wisdom and knowledge.

Current Surface and Prep:
Some parts of the floor have been painted, some are stuck on well, some is peeling. I'm planning to get a diamond concrete grinding wheel and dust shroud and sand the floors and clean them up the best I can from any existing. Then planning to wash/dry/ and etch as usual.
I'm planning to run a dehumidifiers for a few days to ensure things are dry. The floor does NOT get any water as far as I can tell. I may do a plastic test to see if any moisture builds but I don't expect it beyond normal dry basement conditions.

Application:
After all is prepped and ready to go, I plan to paint the floors with 2 coats as recommended. I may need to do in 2 separate sessions/sections, so I plan to mix it up and get as far as I can. Then at a later time I'll do the remaining. I know this may give me an odd color variation or something, but it won't matter in this space.

Clear Top Coat:
I see that they now offer a clear that some people install on top. Not sure if this is more popular in garages where you want things to look extra nice, or is a requirement for a more durable finish? Anyone go without a top coat and has it held up well?

1 Part Vs 2 Part Epoxy Paint:
The 1-part has actually held up decent for over a decade, with the only places showing issues are where the sink has overflown where the washing machine empties and some water sat on the surface and the paint wore down in those areas. So, 2-part sounds more durable and ideal.


I'm just trying to get this all out my brain and get some feedback since this is something I've been sort of dreading, but the time has come to get it done. Share your wisdom, thanks.

 

[FJ4FUN]

I'm doing some basement clean up getting the walls painted on a new to me property, and while at it I want to paint the floors. I've never used the 2-part epoxy, only the 1 part which is basically just normal paint. I'd like to go 2-part epoxy with the hope that its even more durable than the 1 part.

Anyone here go through the motions and process of prepping and painting a basement with 2-part epoxy? Hoping some of you can chime in with your wisdom and knowledge.

Current Surface and Prep:
Some parts of the floor have been painted, some are stuck on well, some is peeling. I'm planning to get a diamond concrete grinding wheel and dust shroud and sand the floors and clean them up the best I can from any existing. Then planning to wash/dry/ and etch as usual.
I'm planning to run a dehumidifiers for a few days to ensure things are dry. The floor does NOT get any water as far as I can tell. I may do a plastic test to see if any moisture builds but I don't expect it beyond normal dry basement conditions.

Application:
After all is prepped and ready to go, I plan to paint the floors with 2 coats as recommended. I may need to do in 2 separate sessions/sections, so I plan to mix it up and get as far as I can. Then at a later time I'll do the remaining. I know this may give me an odd color variation or something, but it won't matter in this space.

Clear Top Coat:
I see that they now offer a clear that some people install on top. Not sure if this is more popular in garages where you want things to look extra nice, or is a requirement for a more durable finish? Anyone go without a top coat and has it held up well?

1 Part Vs 2 Part Epoxy Paint:
The 1-part has actually held up decent for over a decade, with the only places showing issues are where the sink has overflown where the washing machine empties and some water sat on the surface and the paint wore down in those areas. So, 2-part sounds more durable and ideal.


I'm just trying to get this all out my brain and get some feedback since this is something I've been sort of dreading, but the time has come to get it done. Share your wisdom, thanks.

Congrats on your new (to you) home! Regarding your questions:
Current Surface and Prep: Yes to grinding/removing existing paint. No, to wash/dry/etch. Instead, because it's a basement environment and you don't have any 1st hand experience with what's going on during winter (wet) season, I would recommend going directly to performing anhydrous calcium chloride testing once your floor is ground. It's relatively inexpensive, very easy to do and will provide quantifiable measurements that can be used to help you determine what steps you may need to take should you find elevated Moisture Vapor Transmission [MVT] levels. Properly coating a basement (or any other floor for that matter) requires an investment of time and $$, proper prep is key, MVT testing will help determine what it will take to properly prep and which materials to use. Here's a link to give you an idea of the test kits: MVT TEST. It should be noted that any moisture testing represents "a snapshot in time" meaning that the test results only reflect present conditions which may (more than likely will) change during the wet season. Given that you have limited history with the property take a careful look at the basement area, things like the existence of sump pumps, efflorescence (white powdery residue on walls/floors) and, yes, peeling paint all may be indicators of high moisture levels. Peeling paint can tell you a lot depending on where it's occurring. If it's peeling up in high traffic areas, OK, that's to be expected but, if its peeling up in low/no traffic areas like in corners or up against wall to floor transition areas, that could be an indicator of elevated MVT during the wet months.

Once you've ground off the existing coating, tested for moisture (and the results are at, or under, 3lbs per 1000sf) your floor will be ready for application of an epoxy system. NO need to etch/rinse.

Application: Yes, applying the color coat in two separate applications may (likely will) result in a color variation so plan ahead and choose an area to make this transition like a door threshold. Try to avoid doing so in the middle of a room. Also, IF you've determined that some level of MVT mitigation is needed i.e. utilizing our MVT primer, we at AlphaGarage/Wolverine Coatings would be highly recommending that you find a way to at least apply the prime coat all at once.

Clear Top Coat: top coats are required whenever flakes or traction additives are used but, for the most part, are optional for solid color floors. Exceptions to this would be, in the case of epoxies, high UV exposure applications or the cosmetic appeal of the super high gloss/wet look finish. For solid color basement areas the ultimate in good looks and durability is our 2-layer CFLC system! If elevated MVT is measured or suspected we would swap out the BondTite 1101 for our BondTite 1102MVT primer. If you just need to upgrade from the current painted floor and if bomb-proof performance isn't required go with our 3-layer Partial Flake System and delete the DecoFlakes and EnduraShield clear coat. Both of these systems are zero VOC (super important where basements are involved), high-build 100% solids, ceramic based systems that will last you decades.

1 Part Vs 2 Part Epoxy Paint: I covered most of this in the prior question regarding surface prep. As far as "dreading" it goes, the worst part about it will be grinding off the old coating and when doing so MAKE SURE to use adequate dust extraction EQ! Concrete dust (and old lead paint...) is serious stuff and needs to be properly managed.

We provide individual direction/coaching to our customers through every step of the process so no question goes unanswered...