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#2 pencils

NoahG

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Feb 24, 2013
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Detroit, MI
I have always preferred a #2 pencil for wood working, but I swear, it seems like these days I can break a #2 pencil faster than I did when I was five years old. They just don't seem to last a second in my pocket, or the tip breaks when I'm sharpening it! If you are one of the guys (or gals) like me who prefera #2 pencil, what brand do you like?
 
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bob15

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Dec 8, 2011
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Northeasten, CT
I have always preferred a #2 pencil for wood working, but I swear, it seems like these days I can break a #2 pencil faster than I did when I was five years old.

You are older and I would assume stronger than when you were five years old :D
 

MrGiggles

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Dec 11, 2014
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I saw that Lowes had some jumbo pencils by the cash registers. I've not tried one, but it might be something to consider.
 

JRC3

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I use one of these for my carpenter pencils.

Pencil Pull:
603866568_tp.jpg


I clamp it to my collar and it's always hanging there and not getting bent or squashed, breaking the lead inside. Best part is you make your mark and just let go of the pencil and it automatically goes back to where it stays and can easily be found. I'm sure they make one for a #2 as well.
 

Whitworth

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I got a bunch of the Staples brand pencils on back-to-school sale. Utter garbage. Get Dixon or equivalent quality.

G
 

madcrisis

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Dec 3, 2013
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I use dixon ticonderoga all day long at school. My preferred choice. There are nicer but they also cost more. I understand just enjoying a #2, in both senses.:evil:

Also if you find you are breaking points often while sharpening, it could be your sharpener. Also put it in your ear not your pocket. The bending while in your pocket breaks the graphite inside the casing. If you do alot of erasingget some eraser tops cause the erasers never last for me. Make sure the toppers feel more rubbery than plastic too!
 

CJM8515

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Ive noticed this too, cheap pencils..very easy to break. I prefer the square pencils so they dont roll away but dixons are excellent either way.
 
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NoahG

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I use dixon ticonderoga all day long at school. My preferred choice. There are nicer but they also cost more. I understand just enjoying a #2, in both senses.:evil:

Also if you find you are breaking points often while sharpening, it could be your sharpener. Also put it in your ear not your pocket. The bending while in your pocket breaks the graphite inside the casing. If you do alot of erasingget some eraser tops cause the erasers never last for me. Make sure the toppers feel more rubbery than plastic too!

I realize it might be the sharpener, but the hand operated one breaks tips, and the electric one grinds off center! I can't win.

Wish I could keep them behind my ear, but I wear glasses, so that spot is taken.
 

Bull

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There was a thread on here about this not too long ago. People seemed to agree that cheap Chinese pencils and pencil sharpeners are worthless, and that stepping up to some USA bits or some fancy mechanical pencils/lead holders is the way to go.

I found a small vintage hand sharpener in an old desk, from my youth. It's made in Germany and works exactly as it should.
 

rslaback

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Westcentral Wisconsin
If you are talking wood working like construction, I agree with the #2. If you are talking woodworking like cabinets then try a #4. It makes a much lighter mark which sands off with almost no effort when prepping for finish.
 

defektes

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USA Gold Pencils by megabrands. You can get them at Wal-Mart. Made in USA and superior to even the once well made ticonderogas..which are Chinese now.
 
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rdn2blazer

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So Cal/South Bay area, Calif.
FIRST thing that came to my mind with a #2 pencil lol! You want quality pencils when playing Pencil Break or Pencil War too :D. Like back in elementary school :D. Anybody on here ever play Pencil Break or Pencil War back in the day? I'm 47 and all us boys played it to see who could break the others pencil with their pencil. If you don't know the game I'll explain.

You flip or decide who goes first. If you get to hit you make sure your fingers are loose and streatched out and hands warm so you can make a HARD flicked hit on your buds pencil. He holds his pencil Horizontally and the pencil is held between his thumbs and sides of his forfingers. Like making a fist but bring your thumbs to the side of the forfingers.

Now there are ways to swing to your advagage. I always would try and flex my pencil upward like trying to arcing or bowing it upwards. So it wouldn't just break with a good hit. You have to hold you pencil solid and can't be sloppy loose hand or you soften the blow somewhat. Ya lose your pencil and have to give it up to your oponent or get DQed (bumped to play later) if you do. The rest of your friends are witness to a gay sissy hand and will kick you *** if you cheat at pencil break lol.

They of course gather around the competition in a tight circle to block you two playing from the teachers cause you'd get in trouble playing pencil break :D :rocker:

The kid who gets to hit holds his pencil down at the preferably unsharpeded end. You want your pencil as long as possible, You want high speed velocity at the other end, but yet this can be a drawback somewhat ragarding pencil length. Because when it's your turn to hold your pencil to take a hit its long and more susceptible to being broken by a solidly flicked hit. Especially if you have dents from previous pencil wars.

But if your pencil is new you hold it the same way as you do when your it's your turn to take a hit. Between the side of your forfinger and thumb. You want to hold your pencil with the flat of the pencil as flat as possible, so if your oponent hits across the flat with the end of his pencil it wont create as big or deep a dent like had it hit the hex point with the same powered strike. The hex point because of less surface area will recieve a deeper dent weakening the pencil slightly more. This was a widley debated discussion amongst the kids which way was better to hold your pencil, flat up or hex point up lol. I prefered the flat up myself.

Then you keep a lose hand and grab the oposite end at the eraser end and take a couple practice flicks. Then you setup......Load up on your pencil aka battle axe, flexing it to it's elastic limits and rain down a VIOLENT STRIKE from your battle axe of a pencil on your opponents swordpencil and smash into it with ALL your flickable might you can muster lol. And hopefully land that DEATH BLOW to your opponents pencilsword and break it in two or crack weaken it where when he takes his turn he breaks his own pencil when he flexes it back to take his hit. YOU are now the victor!!! And now can go on to fight another day and hopefully become Pencil Break Champion of the entire school. :willy_nil:lol::deathmeta:deathmeta:deathmeta

I went through dozens and dozens of pencils playing with my friends back in those school days lol. Great memories having fun. Winning was of course AWESOME!!! :D
 

machine_punk

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May 14, 2011
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Napa Valley, California
My favorite is an art pencil...

The blue Staedler Mars Lumograph in HB (#2).

On a side note, the Panasonic Auto-Stop KP-77 is BY FAR, the best pencil sharpener ever made. Exactly the right angle on the point (too sharp breaks easily, too blunt dulls too quickly). ALL MODERN electric pencil sharpeners are garbage. Your point angle is probably your problem with breaking tips.

Kev
 

pendragon1998

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NE Georgia
We used to remove the eraser and pinch together the metal band at the top of the pencil to make an improvised blade for chopping into the other poor b******'s pencil.
 

bushmechanic

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Mar 17, 2014
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For non-mechanical pencils, there is actually a universally lauded "best" for general use:

blackwing-gift-set.jpg


So far as mechanicals are concerned, there is a lot more preference involved, as well as cost. I've long appreciated the Japanese made Pentel P209:

pentel_20110823112454.jpg
 

Two Sheds

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Jan 16, 2014
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House brand are all really bad, the cheapest pencils they can find in China. They are false economy as they break so often you go through more of them, not to mention the frustration. Ticonderoga and Black Warrior are still good pencils, though they aren't made in USA any more. You can still find them made in Mexico. As far as I know, General pencils (and maybe Musgraves) are the only pencils still made in USA, but they are hard to find. So I make do with Ticonderogas from Mexico for most uses, and hoard my remaining USA Black Warriors.
 

nicksnothereman

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Oct 19, 2013
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In the Mojave
I have always preferred a #2 pencil for wood working, but I swear, it seems like these days I can break a #2 pencil faster than I did when I was five years old. They just don't seem to last a second in my pocket, or the tip breaks when I'm sharpening it! If you are one of the guys (or gals) like me who prefera #2 pencil, what brand do you like?

I just buy whatever **** I can get during back to school and it lasts me over a year. Usually mechanical pencils but sometimes the woodies. Carpenters pencils are probably better but honestly I often find myself using thin line markers (also pick them up during back to school). Since most of my work is for myself the cuts don't need to be that great on most of the stuff I make; I cut by hand too so even if I get a direct measurement the kerf/my shaky hands will probably f- it up.:lol:

But yeah, there's literally no reason not to stock up on supplies during back to school. Cost is significantly less...careful with the white glue if you mix your own wood glue though because it usually won't last more than a year before it becomes a mass of gelatin.:scared:

Brand on woodies? Dunno dixon maybe? I think they're all chinese nowadays. I usually have better luck with the novelty pencils to tell you the truth. But I think those are old stock so...sign of the times maybe.:spit:
 

FMC1959

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Feb 9, 2014
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AE2

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Nov 28, 2012
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Atchison KS
I prefer regular pencil as well, but I usually lose it. The lumber yard always gives out a handful, so there are plenty of cheapies around. The erasers on them are trash though. Pink erasers dry out and smear, but the white erasers seem to last forever.
 
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