I recently installed a 2 post car lift in my garage. I was surprised that the locking mechanism by design does not actuate until the lift arms are a few feet off the floor. I had raised my sports car below the locking level (say 2 feet from the floor) to do some electrical work in the engine bay and left the car there overnight. When I started work the next day I noticed that one side of the vehicle had sagged noticeably. I didn't notice any hydraulic leakage on that cylinder or the power unit. The equalizer cables are adjusted correctly. Otherwise the lift works fine. When I spoke with the sales rep about this he told me that I should never work on a vehicle when lifted below the locking height. Is this right or is something wrong with my lift?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
2 post car lift question
- Thread starter johnstydo
- Start date
HoosierBuddy
Well-known member
That's the way mine is too....it has to be up a few feet to hit the first set of locks.
I also tend to use my lift to get my car up enough so I don't have to bend over quite so far under the hood. As long as you aren't going to be working under it, I feel this is relatively safe.
When you're done working on it, lower it back until the tires are all touching the floor. That should limit any further creep.
If you think about the hydraulics, any fluid leak past the seal in either hydraulic cylinder or any fluid that's able to leak backwards past the pump will allow a ram to drop.
I also tend to use my lift to get my car up enough so I don't have to bend over quite so far under the hood. As long as you aren't going to be working under it, I feel this is relatively safe.
When you're done working on it, lower it back until the tires are all touching the floor. That should limit any further creep.
If you think about the hydraulics, any fluid leak past the seal in either hydraulic cylinder or any fluid that's able to leak backwards past the pump will allow a ram to drop.
firebirdparts
Well-known member
it's certainly true that the equalization is supposed to be entirely controlled by the cables, whether you sleep all night or not. If you have cables, they are entirely responsible for keeping the car level on the way up so the fact that you left it that way is irrelevant. If I'm wrong, tell me. The lift is simple, and I can't see it. I could be wrong. You'll have to look at it.
With my lift, and at my house, I would not be posting both:
"the cables are adjusted properly"
"the lift sagged on one side"
I wouldn't be posting that because with my lift that's impossible. I would investigate that until it became possible. Otherwise, internet help is just fog.
I guess it's pretty normal to not have locks real low, but i don't know why. it's also normal to have hydraulic synchronization and no cables, and in that a case of course a lot of very bad things can happen. I leave my lift up off the locks at times, like say with a 5 gallon bucket under the car, (did it just yesterday) and one of these days it's gonna leak down, I know it. Been holding so far.
Let me be extra super clear here: With my lift, if all the fluid leaked out of ONE cylinder, the car will glide perfectly level to the ground. My cylinders are plumbed in parallel and anybody can look at that and see that it's true.
With my lift, and at my house, I would not be posting both:
"the cables are adjusted properly"
"the lift sagged on one side"
I wouldn't be posting that because with my lift that's impossible. I would investigate that until it became possible. Otherwise, internet help is just fog.
I guess it's pretty normal to not have locks real low, but i don't know why. it's also normal to have hydraulic synchronization and no cables, and in that a case of course a lot of very bad things can happen. I leave my lift up off the locks at times, like say with a 5 gallon bucket under the car, (did it just yesterday) and one of these days it's gonna leak down, I know it. Been holding so far.
Let me be extra super clear here: With my lift, if all the fluid leaked out of ONE cylinder, the car will glide perfectly level to the ground. My cylinders are plumbed in parallel and anybody can look at that and see that it's true.
jack stand
Well-known member
Is this one of the very first lifts since installing? The equalizing cable may have "settled" (especially not resting on the locks for a period of time) and a small readjustment may be needed.
Just a WAG.
Just a WAG.
wssix99
Well-known member
I was surprised that the locking mechanism by design does not actuate until the lift arms are a few feet off the floor.
I expect all lifts are like this to be certain that all vehicles are clear of the floor (sports cars and large trucks) before they start engaging the locks. Engineers can design the lift and estimate the loads if a vehicle is being lifted by the hydraulics or sitting on the locks.
If the locks were lower and one was to end up in a situation where the loads were half sitting on the locks and half sitting on the suspension of the vehicle, the loading is uncertain and I'm sure there are a multitude of unsafe conditions that could arise.
I looked at the hydraulics plumbing on my lift and there is a single line from the pump to a T fitting. One leg goes to the nearside cylinder and the other goes across the crosspiece and down to the bottom of the farside cylinder. If yours is the same, they are not exactly "parallel" because the length of each line is not the same. So if there is a leak in the pressure valve the loss of fluid in pump line will effect each cylinder differently becauseit's certainly true that the equalization is supposed to be entirely controlled by the cables, whether you sleep all night or not. If you have cables, they are entirely responsible for keeping the car level on the way up so the fact that you left it that way is irrelevant. If I'm wrong, tell me. The lift is simple, and I can't see it. I could be wrong. You'll have to look at it.
With my lift, and at my house, I would not be posting both:
"the cables are adjusted properly"
"the lift sagged on one side"
I wouldn't be posting that because with my lift that's impossible. I would investigate that until it became possible. Otherwise, internet help is just fog.
I guess it's pretty normal to not have locks real low, but i don't know why. it's also normal to have hydraulic synchronization and no cables, and in that a case of course a lot of very bad things can happen. I leave my lift up off the locks at times, like say with a 5 gallon bucket under the car, (did it just yesterday) and one of these days it's gonna leak down, I know it. Been holding so far.
Let me be extra super clear here: With my lift, if all the fluid leaked out of ONE cylinder, the car will glide perfectly level to the ground. My cylinders are plumbed in parallel and anybody can look at that and see that it's true.
Hobby_Man22
Well-known member
That's the way mine is too....it has to be up a few feet to hit the first set of locks.
I also tend to use my lift to get my car up enough so I don't have to bend over quite so far under the hood. As long as you aren't going to be working under it, I feel this is relatively safe.
When you're done working on it, lower it back until the tires are all touching the floor. That should limit any further creep.
If you think about the hydraulics, any fluid leak past the seal in either hydraulic cylinder or any fluid that's able to leak backwards past the pump will allow a ram to drop.
I thought most lifts have locks you set the car down on? Last I checked you aren't really ever supposed to leave hyraulics pressurized for extended periods of time. It's what causes the seals to start leaking
Last edited:
haveissues
Well-known member
Lifts don't lock until they are a ways off the floor because of the height of the carriage that rides in the towers. If they made the carriage tall enough to lock down low it would come out of the top of the posts to get the vehicle lifted to full height. They could make 2 sets of locks at different heights but more complicated = more expensive.
Scud67
Well-known member
Read your owners manual - in my it specifically states the there will be some "drop" if not settled on the locks -in very large letters it says to never leave the lift under load without setting it on the locks.
Also, if you want to work on your vehicle at a level below the locks on the lift, lift the vehicle, set jack stands under it and set the vehicle back down.
Also, if you want to work on your vehicle at a level below the locks on the lift, lift the vehicle, set jack stands under it and set the vehicle back down.
crazylunker
Well-known member
mowhawk is the only lift I know of that activates locks almost as soon as you start lifting.
Hobby_Man22
Well-known member
In school I was taught to always set the vehicle down on the locks. Don't leave it in between.
lolaetype
Well-known member
That's also in the instructions that came with my MaxJax, and probably every other lift sold in the U. S.In school I was taught to always set the vehicle down on the locks. Don't leave it in between.
Hobby_Man22
Well-known member
Probably because if it leaks down and goes sideways it's falling off.That's also in the instructions that came with my MaxJax, and probably every other lift sold in the U. S.