2 post lift-add drive on ramps?

[reachme]

I have a 2 post lift because I got a great deal on a used, older American made lift and it's great to do work on the car. I knew when I bought it I needed to drop the engine over the winter and I knew the inside width of the ramps of a 4 post would not fit. I also store the convertible over the winter and park underneath, and I don't have a lot of room so 2 posts is better than 4.

But in the summer I alternate cars depending on weather and it's a pain to keep positioning the pads under the car to raise it out of the way, so I don't bother most of the time.

It would sure be nice to have a set of drive on ramps, that fit into the 4 arms on the existing lift so I have easy drive on/off when I need it. I would use it for storage much more often instead of leaving the daily driver outside. Anybody else buy these? Make these? I can't find any lift company who sells them and I can't be the only one who wants these.

BTW it is an ALI 7k pound rated lift on 8+ inches of fibermesh concrete and I never have more than 3,500 pounds on there if that matters.

thanks in advance

 

[rsanter]

I have seen lifts that were factory made that had a drive on platform attacked to what was a 2 post lift.
Looked to me like the company that made the 2 post just wanted to sell another version to different customers.
If it was me I would build a platform like a trailer or sorts so it could be wheeled out when not wanted.
I would also want it bolted to the arms of the 2 post so it can't shift or tip in any way

Would not be that hard to make one but I guess it will cost you about $1000 to $1500 for the steel and some labor

Bob

 

[sublimate]

I knew when I bought it I needed to drop the engine over the winter and I knew the inside width of the ramps of a 4 post would not fit.

Use caution when removing an engine on a 2-post - you can upset the center of balance and the car can fall off. Also you sometimes have to do a fair amount of yanking on an engine to get it out and that can be disconcerting on a 2-post.

I prefer to work on a 2-post lift, but pulling an engine is one thing I prefer to do on a 4-post.

It would sure be nice to have a set of drive on ramps, that fit into the 4 arms on the existing lift so I have easy drive on/off when I need it. I would use it for storage much more often instead of leaving the daily driver outside. Anybody else buy these? Make these? I can't find any lift company who sells them and I can't be the only one who wants these.

Like this?
http://www.mohawklifts.com/wp/consu...ty-items/speedlane-two-post-drive-on-adapter/

 

[reachme]

YEAH! like that. thanks Sublimate!

BTW on the engine drop, I lowered the car, unbolted engine in a homemade reinforced plywood cradle, then raised the car.
opposite when i got it back in.
I agree any weight shift on a lift is a very bad thing.

thanks again for the Mohawk link!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DodgeMech]

i like to lift the truck up, remove everything underneath, pull off front tires, put rotors on ground, then remove motor...don't rock at all with that method haha...

also, those adapters look nice, but i wouldn't trust them on full frame things like a truck...but a unibody car? hell yeah...much easier than throwing the arms under and aiming them

 

[Radix2]

I was surprised by the Mohawk version - I was expecting longer ramps that would lift from the tires like a 4 post... anyone seen this type - any reason it is not possible ?

seems like the Mohawk still would require careful set up with stops on the floor to get the position right, and then reaching/messing under the car to insert the lift blocks at the correct points (since you cold not drive over them... not much more convenient then the arms..?

Long tire lift rails could have an integral stop and would not need nearly the setup if it was possible - for a true drive on set up.

 

[zkdiesel]

If you frequently rack the same vehicle time to position the rack should be minimal
Seems like a lot of expense for something that would take under 5 min per use......

 

[reachme]

zkdiesel, yes you would think.
But the single bay is narrow so front lift arms are as close as possible and need to be fully collapsed. Then front lift points need to be centered and at furthest point forward the lift arms can reach (exactly right spot). Sometimes I need to roll car once or twice to get in correct spot.
For rear wheels, they are never in exactly same place, especially if I need to roll car to get front arms in right spot then the rear is at a slight angle and floor is uneven so shimming changes each time.
Also car is lowered and so it's not like 8" or 9", more like .5 inch or .25 inch spacing I need to shim.
Then the lift pads are about 5" diameter, lift points are 3" diameter, and then there are oil lines right next to them to crush if I don't position wood shims on the cups exactly right.

Finally the car is a convertible and the chassis does flex with 4 lift points. There is more squeeze on opening/closing doors to pop the trunk etc. A drive on ramp would eliminate that flex.

I know these are "western problems", I just don't use the lift as much when car is in regular use because of setup time-only when I work on it. I need a 4 post but there are times I want the convenience of a 4 post drive on ramp.

Those Mohawk drive on ramps are very $$$ and doubt I could find them used-or if they would fit any lift arms (not a Mohawk lift).

I've already done a detailed CAD drawing in my head. . . I may need to move forward with that.

 

[cool57]

http://www.mohawklifts.com/wp/automotive-lifts/specialty-items/tire-engaging-adaptors/

 

[onthefence777]

zkdiesel, yes you would think.
But the single bay is narrow so front lift arms are as close as possible and need to be fully collapsed. Then front lift points need to be centered and at furthest point forward the lift arms can reach (exactly right spot). Sometimes I need to roll car once or twice to get in correct spot.
For rear wheels, they are never in exactly same place, especially if I need to roll car to get front arms in right spot then the rear is at a slight angle and floor is uneven so shimming changes each time.
Also car is lowered and so it's not like 8" or 9", more like .5 inch or .25 inch spacing I need to shim.
Then the lift pads are about 5" diameter, lift points are 3" diameter, and then there are oil lines right next to them to crush if I don't position wood shims on the cups exactly right.

Finally the car is a convertible and the chassis does flex with 4 lift points. There is more squeeze on opening/closing doors to pop the trunk etc. A drive on ramp would eliminate that flex.

I know these are "western problems", I just don't use the lift as much when car is in regular use because of setup time-only when I work on it. I need a 4 post but there are times I want the convenience of a 4 post drive on ramp.

Those Mohawk drive on ramps are very $$$ and doubt I could find them used-or if they would fit any lift arms (not a Mohawk lift).

I've already done a detailed CAD drawing in my head. . . I may need to move forward with that.

Just a thought on being able to repeatedly relocated your vehicle in the exact position time and time again easily...My dad let me park in his garage but my car had to be in exactly the right spot to not interfere on any side. I put a piece of electrical tape with a notch in the center on the carpet seal/plastic door trim piece on the floor of my car where the door closed. I lined that notch up with the crack in the center of the garage. A very subtle etching of the concrete with a t crossmark, pull up slowly with the door slightly ajar to view the tape vs the floor crossmark and I was able to first pull in align my car within a degree or two (rotation wise like a clock) in the same spot every day for two years. YMMV