Looking for some opinions on how to install a 2 post in my 24x24 garage. I am currently lifting it to get 12'6" ceiling height, and also has 2x6 walls. The lift I have waiting to go in is a 10k certified with super symmetric arms. I will be using it to service my 20ft long half ton truck and full size suv. I know things will be tight with 23' interior space, but I will most likely add onto the back wall 6 or 8 feet next year or so to gain more room in front. One step to a time lol. What I am having trouble with is how far from the back wall and door I should place the columns. The manual says 10ft from center line to back wall which seems tight. I was thinking 11ft from back wall which gives me 12' to the door. I had the pad poured roughly 9" thick of concrete 4ftx4ft square in that area with the rest of the slab 4.5-5" thick. This is also my first lift. And also being super symmetric arms I'm not sure what to expect for center of gravity distances front to back when its on the lift. I have read the door handles on front doors are roughly where the cog tends to be. Any thoughts or advise?
2 post lift advice
- Thread starter Chartersj
- Start date
Figure out where youd like to have the different vehicles sitting in there and then use that to get an idea of where the lift should go.
I've always found it kinda strange that there's a guide out there for the various vehicles to show where the lift points are which is handy info but they should also include the center of gravity which can vary because people seem to be as much all over the place with that as the lifting points.
I've always found it kinda strange that there's a guide out there for the various vehicles to show where the lift points are which is handy info but they should also include the center of gravity which can vary because people seem to be as much all over the place with that as the lifting points.
AC-WC
Well-known member
I picked the largest vehicle (close to what you have length wise) and left about 18" front and back to walk around in my 24x27wide. Pull in the vehicle and then measure from there. I have a 24" bench at the front and still have some room. Note- you will very likely lose 1 bay for parking.
You should have wiggle room since you did 4x4 concrete. I bought a 2024 ALI lift guide that shows all the common lift points since I have been doing some different cars. I think it's $20?
In the picture you can see how much the left post goes into the next bay. You want to keep the lift centered to the door. Unless you have a double wide door you might be able to tweak it to be able to park another vehicle.
You should have wiggle room since you did 4x4 concrete. I bought a 2024 ALI lift guide that shows all the common lift points since I have been doing some different cars. I think it's $20?
In the picture you can see how much the left post goes into the next bay. You want to keep the lift centered to the door. Unless you have a double wide door you might be able to tweak it to be able to park another vehicle.
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finn
Well-known member
My two post lift is in the 24’x32’ deep back room of my shop. There’s a 12’x14’ high door in that room, which provided access for the original owner / builder’s logging equipment and trucks.
For my use, I installed a two post Bendpac lift, with a rotisserie next to it. I canted the lift at an angle to allow better access to the lift without cramping access, given that the door is in the center of the 24’ wall.
The point is, consider other options rather than blindly squaring the lift to the door opening.
If you don’t have access to a CAD program, quad paper and cutouts of colored construction paper will work to lay out your workbenches, stationary tools, boxes, compressors, etc, to see what the optimal location and orientation of your lift should be to meet your particular needs and wants.
I struggled a little locating my lift, given the constraints of door location, hydronic heating tube location, floor drains, etc. The right post ended up a little closer to the wall than I like, specifically the power pack, but it’s about the best I could do. Canting the lift another few degrees would have helped, though.
Yeah I thought the same thing, center of gravity is just as important as lifting points. Being new to lifts and only used one once before would be very hand for someone like me lol
That is what I did to cut the squares out of the floor and made them large enough for rough measurements. Its only a one bay garage for now anyways, The original door (10x7) favors one side with a man door next to it. This will still give me enough room to walk between the column and wall. The new door is going to be 10x10 with a side mount opener.
Yeah I did think of angling a little bit but my door is closer to one side of the garage and I don't want to loose more floor space on the other side.
I don't expect to have a bench along the back wall. It will have to be off to the side for now, which is not a big deal to me. I do plan to add some depth next year or so for a work bench and extra room, and width to reuse the (10x7) door I took out. Would be nice to keep both vehicles inside during snow storms. I was mainly concerned about making sure I put the columns in the best spot considering my shallow depth. For if for some reason I try to put a longer truck on it then mine I could always leave the door up as well.
This. The drafters (and CAD monkeys*) I work with mock the "arts and crafts" solution. However, nothing is faster when you want to brainstorm some options. Just take time to scale the cutouts carefully.
Cheers, Alan
*Dilbert joke...