2 Post Lift.... Floorplate vs. Overhead?

[robertwhite]

I will be installing a 2 post lift in my shop in the near future.

What are the advantages/disadvantages of an overhead vs. a floorplate model?

I really don't care about having to roll/drive a vehicle over the floorplate models, but every time I see them advertised, it is touted as a "low ceiling" type lift. I will have at least 13' 6", so height is not an issue.

My biggest confusion is with the clear floor models. Obviously the bar that goes across the top of the lift is for hiding wires, etc., but doesn't the bar limit the size/height of the vehicle you can put in the air? I need to be able to put a full size pick up (F250 Super Duty) which has probably an 8' or so roof height while sitting on the floor. Now I realize the wheel/tire will eliminate maybe a foot and a half of height once in the air, but I want to be able to walk under the truck at full lift height.

Also what if I ever needed to put a van or a farm tractor on the lift, wouldn't the bar get in the way?

I also need to install overhead lighting, so keep that in mind.

 

[LWW]

Couple things here:

1. Clear floor allows you to roll equipment like ****** jacks, oil cans, hoists, floor jacks, rolling stool, etc. around under the car without running into the floor plate.

2. A 13'6" is not enough height to put an F250 SD up high enough to walk fully upright under it anyway. You'll still be stooped over or crouched while working underneath that beast.

3. Depending on the length and weight distribution of the vehicle, with an asymmetric lift the top bar can be positioned just in front of the windshield so you could theoretically raise the truck up past the height of the top plate if it's not in the way of the cab.

Depending on your ceiling construction, if it's not finished you should be able to "poke" the columns up through your rafters and connect the top plate above your rafter line. This was my plan before I got the MaxJax.

My MaxJax raises my Dodge Durango 42" high with no problem. For me, it was the best of both worlds, small foot print and no floor plate or top plate but it would never handle that F250. I just sit on a rolling stool when I'm working underneath. Although I mostly only do brakes and oil changes on the Durango where the sports cars and especially the race cars get everything from brakes to ****** and engine swaps.

 

[robertwhite]

My MaxJax raises my Dodge Durango 42" high with no problem. For me, it was the best of both worlds, small foot print and no floor plate or top plate but it would never handle that F250. I just sit on a rolling stool when I'm working underneath.

Not to be rude, but if I could only get my vehicle's undercarriage 4' off the ground, I don't see the point of putting in the lift at all. I want to be able to work under the car, not sit in a rolling chair and do only half the job.

Way I figure is that with a 13'6" side wall and 15' at the inside wall, that puts my lift area in the 14'6" - 14' or so at the other side. If the truck is 7' 4" at the roof line while on the ground, it should be about 16"-17" from axle center to bottom of tire. That puts the new roof line at around 6' when in the air. Take that 6' and add my height (well under 6') and I see no reason that I shouldn't be able to stand under the truck on a proper lift.

Am I missing something?

 

[Ironcrow]

13 ft 6 inches is tall enough to lift an F-250 and walk under it.

 

[tonydanzah]

Not to be rude, but if I could only get my vehicle's undercarriage 4' off the ground, I don't see the point of putting in the lift at all. I want to be able to work under the car, not sit in a rolling chair and do only half the job.

Way I figure is that with a 13'6" side wall and 15' at the inside wall, that puts my lift area in the 14'6" - 14' or so at the other side. If the truck is 7' 4" at the roof line while on the ground, it should be about 16"-17" from axle center to bottom of tire. That puts the new roof line at around 6' when in the air. Take that 6' and add my height (well under 6') and I see no reason that I shouldn't be able to stand under the truck on a proper lift.

Am I missing something?

some people including myself have have 9ft rafter height

 

[robertwhite]

some people including myself have have 9ft rafter height

No, I understand that perfectly if you have a low ceiling. What I meant was LWW said I could not get my truck up high enough and he was happy with his 4ft lift height. I had already explained that I have a minimum of 13'6" which I am quite sure would be high enough. I personally would not go through the trouble of installing, expenses, etc to only get 4ft in MY shop. I absolutely did not intend to imply a "mine is bigger (or taller)" attitude.

 

[xjfish]

Yes... OLD post BUMP.

Same basic questions. Looking for 13' 6" ceiling height lift suggestions.

I am 6' 5" and want to be able to lift vehicles as high as possible, including pickups/vans.

My initial thoughts were to find a 2 post clear floor unit that requires ~162" of ceiling clearance. Should I consider a floorplate model? I DO have overhead lighting in the way currently. Floorplate model would eliminate screwing around with moving fixtures, but not opposed. I've always used "clearfloor" units previously. Need at least 9k rated capacity, prefer 12k.

I'm still quite away off from installing a lift but its coming up on the priority list, and i'm stuck with a ceiling height of 13' 6"...

 

[jmdirk]

When you're considering specific vehicles, the height from the undercarriage to the roof line is more important than the overall height.

When you look at the lift specs, start with the lift height. Consider spacers if included. This will be the highest possible you could have the underside of the vehicle. Your head height clearance.

Then consider your overall height of the light so see if it'll fit in your space. For the clearfloor models, you also consider the height to the safety bar. If the lift height + the height of the vehicle from the undercarriage to the roof line is less than the height to the safety bar, you'll be able to lift the vehicle to the max height. If that number is greater, reduce the lifting height (head clearance) by that amount.

Floorplate models you'll have to pay more attention to lift height, the body height and your clearance. Keep in mind that with a floorplate lift, I don't think there's any safety mechanism there to prevent you from inadvertently lifting a vehicle into your roof.

 

[ycgoat]

The 2 posts need to be tied together, and doing that at the top provides the most stable set up. Most 9K lifts will fit nicely under a 13’-6” ceiling; I would go with a clear floor unless I had a tall vehicle that needed a few extra inches of height

 

[finn]

Every time I sweep up grinding disc swarf from the floor under the lift, which is a four or five times per day chore at this point, I am thankful I went with a clear floor model.

My F250 lifts fine on my BendPac XLT, but it doesn’t have a useless lift kit or monster tires, either. It’s just a work truck,

 

[jonesg]

blast from the distant past.

 

[housewolf]

Every time I sweep up grinding disc swarf from the floor under the lift, which is a four or five times per day chore at this point, I am thankful I went with a clear floor model.

My F250 lifts fine on my BendPac XLT, but it doesn’t have a useless lift kit or monster tires, either. It’s just a work truck,

Assuming one has the extensions, isn’t it just the distance from the bottom of the frame to the top of the cab that’s a concern? I don’t see how tire size or a lift kit would matter.

 

[xjfish]

I believe you can add a limit switch to the ceiling for a floorplate or 4 post model, likely a pain. A thought was simply installing a camera and a cheap TV or mirror setup viewable from controls. However, really leaning towards the tallest clearfloor unit I can fit.

I know most 9k lifts will fit, as most are around 12' tall. I would very much prefer to go higher due to being tall. Bendpack XLT may fit the bill.

 

[sjvicker]

I have a 9k baseplate lift as it was the only one I could fit with my hip roof. They serve their purpose but I would never want one for anything more than a small car or very small pickup. The entire cantilever load of each post is held by concrete anchors so you have to ask yourself how much you trust those anchors and your slab. A standard lift will put the top bar in compression when lifting and the loads will mostly cancel out.

Do everything you can to fit a standard 2 post.

 

[3rdgendslmech]

I put a atlas 10K floor plate lift in my pole barn. I've got 10 foot walls, and I'm 6'2". Granted most SUVs and trucks I have to hunch down or roll around on my stool. It's still money well spent IMO I spent about 20 years of my youth on sloped driveways, gravel parking areas and garages with no lift. Its worth it just to not be laying on your back. Maybe in another 20 I might switch over to a 4 post lift so I dont have to deal with setting the arms....TBD.
Another thing, you kinda have to ask yourself what kind of work are you going to be doing. I maintain my family's vehicles, a few closer friends, and an occasional side job through a friend of a friend. If you're doing work on the side for supplemental income, then yeah you might want to look into maybe modifying your ceiling but that's $$$$.
For what it's worth, I'm not trying to hype the brand or anything. At the time it was what I could afford and it kinda matched what I was going to be doing with it. I talked to a couple people and got real world reviews. I did some part time work for a guy that owns a landscape buisness that had a older atlas 15K 2 post and I didnt have any worries about it. The heaviest 2 trucks I've had on my lift were my regular cab flatbed 95 cummins, and a crew cab long bed 4x4 cummins. The posts pulled in about 1/8 of an inch

 

[finn]

I put a atlas 10K floor plate lift in my pole barn. I've got 10 foot walls, and I'm 6'2". Granted most SUVs and trucks I have to hunch down or roll around on my stool. It's still money well spent IMO I spent about 20 years of my youth on sloped driveways, gravel parking areas and garages with no lift. Its worth it just to not be laying on your back. Maybe in another 20 I might switch over to a 4 post lift so I dont have to deal with setting the arms....TBD.
Another thing, you kinda have to ask yourself what kind of work are you going to be doing. I maintain my family's vehicles, a few closer friends, and an occasional side job through a friend of a friend. If you're doing work on the side for supplemental income, then yeah you might want to look into maybe modifying your ceiling but that's $$$$.
For what it's worth, I'm not trying to hype the brand or anything. At the time it was what I could afford and it kinda matched what I was going to be doing with it. I talked to a couple people and got real world reviews. I did some part time work for a guy that owns a landscape buisness that had an older atlas 15K 2 post and I didnt have any worries about it. The heaviest 2 trucks I've had on my lift were my regular cab flatbed 95 cummins, and a crew cab long bed 4x4 cummins. The posts pulled in about 1/8 of an inch

Baseplate lifts have their place and, all things considered, are often the best solution.

Spending time on your back on a gravel drive makes one sensitive to this, and appreciate that the baseplate hurdle is a relatively minor convenience, again, all things considered.

 

[firebirdparts]

Boy, that's the truth. My lift is the best money I ever spent in my life, and a floor plate wouldn't change that.

 

[bb29510]

floor plate, i hate it. so I got one of those low ceiling ones, but i still have to lift my toyota 10'9 to walk under it and im ony 5'5

 

[xjfish]

Helpful replies. Bendpak XPR-10XLS or similar model may fit the bill for me personally. Looks like I could possibly buy said unit through local NAPA? Prefer rotary but prices are a bit high for a home shop. I think Neusbaum makes one exactly 162" tall, perhaps ideal. Looks like a $10k hoist.. Leaning toward not going with a floorplate unit at this point.

 

[PotvinV8]

I have a floorplate model and would never buy another one. Didn't think much of it at the time, but after a few years, the floorplate is a constant PITA. Using a transmission jack is one example as the floorplate is typically directly under or slightly behind the transmission of whatever is in the air, making the use of a trans jack extremely difficult. Don't get me started about rolling the damn loaded trans jack OVER the floorplate! Oftentimes the simple process of pushing cars around the shop is hampered by the stupid plate as it takes a fair amount of force to move a fullsize car up and over it, not to mention stopping it once it hits the backside. If you have the height, don't go with a floorplate model.