2 Post Lift Help

[mb190sl]

I need help from the collective wisdom of the forum. I have a line on a used 2 post lift for my shop. It is an Eagle 9000 pound asymmetric lift about 3 years old. I have not seen it and don’t have a model number yet, but the seller says he paid $2600 for it new, and has it listed at $1400.

Now my problem. The lift is taller than my ceiling. I have 10’-9” from my floor to the drywalled ceiling. The posts are about 12’ tall, and have the connecting rail across the top of the two posts. My question is, can I cut holes in the ceiling to allow the posts to extend up into the attic space, and mount the connecting rail to the post tops up in the ceiling? Are there any pitfalls to doing this? As long as you don’t have to lift the car all the way to the top before lowering it, I think it should work. Am I missing anything? By the way, my floor should be fine, I had a full 6” slab poured with the shop.

Thanks for any comments.

 

[PxTx]

You could do that, but it would probably be more work than its worth IMHO.

I've handled several of the entry level lifts from Eagle, Bend Pak, Greg Smith's Atlas et al, and Complete Hydraulic. I feel this is probably the best lift for that application http://www.completehydraulic.com/sl10000bp.html I feel its equal if not better than the Eagle.

 

[mb190sl]

I have looked at lifts with the connecting rail on the floor rather than across the top of the posts. I don't like the idea of the rail on the floor because of the trip hazard and cleaning around it. Maybe I am being too picky. It would certainly be easier to install!

 

[russlaferrera]

I do not see any problem in cutting holes in the ceiling, other that placing the posts in between the beams.

 

[russlaferrera]

You could do that, but it would probably be more work than its worth IMHO.

I've handled several of the entry level lifts from Eagle, Bend Pak, Greg Smith's Atlas et al, and Complete Hydraulic. I feel this is probably the best lift for that application http://www.completehydraulic.com/sl10000bp.html I feel its equal if not better than the Eagle.

That is great. Can you get one for $1400?

 

[Special55]

Been there done that.

A couple things you will need to do.

1. The columns need to be walked up into place between your trusses/joists. This means you will need to cut slots in the drywall for the columns to fit. Then add blocking between the trusses/joists for framing and patch your drywall around it.

2. You will need to disable or relocate the saftey bar. If you are concerned about raising a car into the ceiling you should relocate it so that it shuts down just before the car roof hits. You will need to do some testing to find the exact location so that the lift stops and dosen't lock into the safetie latches too high. (Hope that makes sense).

3. If you decide to disable the safety bar locate an electrical disconnect on the column next to the controls so that in the event of a switch malfunction you can shut it down before the vehicle gets into the ceiling.

Hope this helps,

Rich

 

[mb190sl]

Rich,
That is pretty much what I had in mind. I need to locate where the posts will be and double check to see what I have above the ceiling. It will take a little extra effort, but in the long run I think I will be happier without the connecting rail on the floor.

 

[PxTx]

Yes, you probably can get one for that. The one particular one I referenced is better quality and worth the extra money- but I'm only speaking from my experience.

That is great. Can you get one for $1400?

As for the trip hazzard, I think you're over analyzing things an probably already have your mind made up that the clear floor it better, despite your low ceiling. I respectfully disagree. The effort to install this and the decreased saftey from fire drafts and not being able to visually inspect the lift on a daily bassis does not outway a 1.5" beveled cover in my eyes. Don't get me wrong, I've installed a lift just as you are describing at the shop owners request- I just think it's kind of a hack solution.

 

[Piper]

not to jack this thread but I don't see anywhere that this lift is certified. Soooo, where is it made? Quality? would you feel safe beneath it?

Piper

 

[Junkman]

I need help from the collective wisdom of the forum. I have a line on a used 2 post lift for my shop. It is an Eagle 9000 pound asymmetric lift about 3 years old. I have not seen it and don’t have a model number yet, but the seller says he paid $2600 for it new, and has it listed at $1400.

Now my problem. The lift is taller than my ceiling. I have 10’-9” from my floor to the drywalled ceiling. The posts are about 12’ tall, and have the connecting rail across the top of the two posts. My question is, can I cut holes in the ceiling to allow the posts to extend up into the attic space, and mount the connecting rail to the post tops up in the ceiling? Are there any pitfalls to doing this? As long as you don’t have to lift the car all the way to the top before lowering it, I think it should work. Am I missing anything? By the way, my floor should be fine, I had a full 6” slab poured with the shop.

Thanks for any comments.

If you have 10' 9" to the drywall, and you add 1/2" for drywall, plus 5 1/2" for a 2" x 6" rafter, that will give you 11' 3" to the top of the attic floor. Will the remaining 9" give you enough room to put the cross beam across the two posts? Without seeing a picture of your garage, it is hard to tell if what you want to do makes sense. I don't know what your garage roof framing is like, but if it is the traditional A framed roof, then consider removing the attic floor and raising it higher. This will give you the room that you need for the lift and the extra room for getting under the car. I am assuming that the roof system isn't made of factory made trusses. The horizontal beams are to hold the walls together and to tie the roof rafters to the walls. If you analyze the system, there is a safe way that this can be done. If you are not certain, then consult with a structural engineer or a building contractor that is experienced with these type of modifications. They are done all the time during remodeling construction in homes. They just need to be done properly.

 

[jezlberry]

Your best bet is to have somebody who install lifts for a living come in and look at your ceiling, floor, trusses etc. and help you make the decision to do it or not. I've been installing for 20 years, and still see the "deer in the headlights" look on clients faces when they realize that their new lift won't fit.

I've also had plenty of people cut a section out of their drywall, have me install the lift and then repatch over the opening with no "fire draft" troubles.

If it is your standard Eagle (some were Chinese and some were Texas lifts) It will use a trip wire as the upper limit safety. These are very easy to relocate!

And last but not least, don't let someone talk you into a baseplate lift because it's easier. Every time you trip over it, you'll wish you spent the extra time to install your overhead lift!

 

[mb190sl]

I am going to pass up the used lift for now. I need to finish my cabinets in the shop and address a few other issues before I tackle the lift. Hopefully, I can get to the lift this summer of fall. That will give me more time to plan thing out. Lots of good input from you guys!

 

[russlaferrera]

mb19O sl, why don't you contact Px Tx and he can hook you up with a better /equal lift that you will not have to adapt. Sounds like a better plan.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

As for the trip hazzard, I think you're over analyzing things an probably already have your mind made up that the clear floor it better, despite your low ceiling. I respectfully disagree. The effort to install this and the decreased saftey from fire drafts and not being able to visually inspect the lift on a daily bassis does not outway a 1.5" beveled cover in my eyes.

I suspect that most of the people on this board will disagree with you. I'd like to see you try to roll a transmission jack over that "1.5 inch beveled cover" and then let me know if you still like it.

Indeed they are a mess to clean around. Every one I've ever seen has crud piled up againist the floor crossover. If I were in the market for a two post lift a clear floor would be mandatory.

Charles

 

[bmwpower]

If I absolutely had to have the cover on the floor, I'd sink the stuff in the floor or cut a trench out and place the lines in the trench. Much better, IMHO.

I have a 500 pound mobile cabinet that would never make it over the cover, not to mention my jack, oil reservoir, etc.

 

[PxTx]

I'm not trying to sell anyone a lift. I've had my share of exposure with different types of lifts in all types of settings. As long are you are not using a bottom of the barrel trans jack, the wheels should be large enough to roll over the step of this lift without issue. If you are recommending me to pull a trans with a jack on one of these lifts, I've done this and did not have a problem. Most people who raise this objection have never actually been faced with this "obstacle".

Sounds like you have your heart set on the clear floor in the 10' application. Once you have the lift in hand, I'm sure you'll find a way to make it work just the way you want it to. I say go for it. Any lift is better than no lift!

 

[robseg]

I'm a mechanic by trade and have delt with the plate on the floor. I would stay away!!! It will always be in the way. Like others have said if you need to roll a cart, cabnet or trans jack to the front or back it will be in the way.
Just my 2 cents Rob

 

[Flathead Youngin']

good thread, i was wonder this exact same thing.......good discussion.....

 

[Ironcrow]

I am also one who insists on a clear floor lift. I coved the ceiling about 6 inches to fit the lift in my last garage. This was with 2x10 rafters and I just sistered addition rafters next to and higher up to build my cove. It was only one or two rafters and the attic space was not used for storage or anything.

The new garage, currently under construction, has a 13 foot ceiling to clear the lift.