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2 post lift- how close to wall? Resdiential app.

jav

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Mar 5, 2010
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108
Location
Massachusetts
I have a narrow 2 stall garage (20'-8" inside width). It's concrete block on slab so the slab goes under the block which forms 1 outside wall and my discussions with an experienced installer suggests mounting one post right up against the wall isn't a problem. BTW- I'm considering the Atlas BP-9000 which is about 11'4" at the widest point.

I'm struggling to decide on placement. On the one hand- placing the lift tight to the one wall will allow reasonably clear use of the second stall. BUT- the tight placement means I'll only have about 3' between the vehicle and that outer wall (on an average midsize sedan) which might be OK for most tasks.

If I push the lift over a bit, I'll have much more room to work on the lift but then the second stall becomes VERY tight just to get out of the car - nevermind doing any work around it on the ground.

I wish a bigger garage were in the cards but that's not an option.

Anyone done this one way or the other and had regrets or a change of heart and why?
 
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Movover

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Jan 14, 2015
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Central Maine
If it was me I would put it close to the wall so you can still use that other space with ease. In a bind if you need to can you back in the car on the lift so you can work on that side easier? Not sure if that can be done though
 

OzarkMan

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Dec 3, 2014
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Ozark Missouri
Whatever distance you decide on, keep in mind that the anchor bolts will need some space from any corner/expansion joint. This usually equates to about a minimum of 6". That being said, You need to read the installation manual for specific measurements on your lift. I wanted to place one of the columns close to the wall when I installed my lift, however that would have gone against the lift manufacturers caution on edge of concrete spacing for the anchors.
 

Wizzard

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Jan 28, 2011
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350
Any possible removing of the axles should be taken into consideration if you'll be doing that. Most automotive axles are in the 28-32" range. But you won't need that much clearance to slide them out due to the car/hub being offset from the lift post. Or you can just drop the rear-end all together and set it out of the way on jack stands to work on it if need be.
 

Kevin54

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Jan 12, 2005
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Urbana, Ohio
3' is tight but doable. Park your car 3' from the wall and walk around it and see if you have room for doing what you what you anticipate on doing. Plus it also depends on whether the wall is to the right of the lift or to the left of the lift. If per chance the wall is to the left of the lift, you have the car up in the air, you need to turn on the ignition for any reason, do you have room to get a stepladder in there and do it. Sure, you can lower the car, and raise it back up, but at times, that doesn't happen. If the wall is to the right of the lift, then things are way easier. Ideally everyone would love to have a lift in the middle of a vast space, but that doesn't' happen. So weigh things out what you MAY have to do with the lift and see if you can live with it.
 

02camaro86

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Dec 20, 2014
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New Jersey
Whatever distance you decide on, keep in mind that the anchor bolts will need some space from any corner/expansion joint. This usually equates to about a minimum of 6". That being said, You need to read the installation manual for specific measurements on your lift. I wanted to place one of the columns close to the wall when I installed my lift, however that would have gone against the lift manufacturers caution on edge of concrete spacing for the anchors.

this, we have a 16x24 our lift is as close to the edge as recommended, its a bit tight but not an issue for me (small frame) or my friends (larger frame). im not sure of what mohawk recommends. i would put them out as far and as comfortable as you can deal with for you other bay..

putting the post to close together will make getting to lift points on certain vehicles. checking lift specs and dimensions on mfgs website will give you the most insight.
 
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jav

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Mar 5, 2010
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108
Location
Massachusetts
Thanks guys- as far as mounting goes- I've been assured it's no problem because my slab goes under the block wall so even with the lift right up against the wall, the anchors will be about 12" away from any slab edge. Also- in my case, the garage structure lends itself very well to safety anchors at the post tops (which I'll do just for my own peace of mind).

Unfortunately- the lift will be up against the left (drivers side) wall. But- I think the limiting factor for door opening will be the lift post itself - not the wall. Good point about accessing the key while on the lift but I suspect for the times I will need to do that, the trade-off of moving the lift further into the other bay "seems" like a good choice.

I'm leaning towards the close to wall placement and think I can better live with those trade-offs than the alternative. I'm just testing the waters in case there's something I'm not considering.

I do wish there was a decent one post lift with a 9000 lb rating... but so far- the BP-9000 is the front runner.
 

rburke65

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Nov 10, 2007
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Canfield, Ohio
Set up the post to where you think you want them and pull your car in between the posts and look and ponder at what ya got.some times it helps just to actually "see" it.
 
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TurnipTruck

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Southcentral Alaska
I have a two post about 18" from the wall on one side; just enough to squeak by between the post and the wall. I wouldn't even consider putting it any nearer to the wall. It is already a hassle to get to that side to position the arms properly.
Get a four post if you cannot get all the way around a two post.
 
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jav

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Massachusetts
Turniptruck-

is there a reason you can't go between the post and the car as opposed to the post and wall?? I presumed there would be enough room since you have to be able to get out of the car?
 

killahog

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Morrow County Ohio
Jav the next time you have a vehicle in the garage position it 3' from the wall and rotate your tires or something, Just to get a feel for it being so close to the wall. Kept in mind when the car does go up on the lift you can easily walk underneath it and wont nessasarly be traveling between the car and the wall all the time.
 

Farmall450

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Dec 23, 2011
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Marengo, Illinois
That's a tough trade off. I'm thinking in the school shop there are only a few feet as there's a shelfing unit between the two lifts but it's probably in excess of three feet. Never has been a problem that I can think of, except that it's darker.
 
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jav

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Mar 5, 2010
Messages
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Massachusetts
I think I'd be OK with the 3'. It's rare that I'd need to pull an axel. Most of my side work would be limited to tires, brakes, hubs etc.... the rest would be under car work- suspension and exhaust stuff. But not having the second stall would be a problem. I do plan on putting some lighting tight to that wall.
 

DMARSHALL

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Feb 12, 2012
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Location
LITTLETON. COLO
20140427_184419 (1).jpg I placed my altlas 2' from the wall. At times it can be close but when you consider when you rack a car/truck it sets inside the post about 12' to 18' I have had no problems pulling axles or prying down on control arms. Hope this helps
 

TurnipTruck

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Southcentral Alaska
Turniptruck-

is there a reason you can't go between the post and the car as opposed to the post and wall?? I presumed there would be enough room since you have to be able to get out of the car?

Jav: My bendpak is the standard width symmetric 10K model, and I usually have to worm my way out of any car except the MGB. I have had to leave the 1-ton in neutral and get out and then roll it forward just to avoid climbing out a window.
 
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