I got my Direct Lift Pro9F unloaded yesterday and hope to start the install this weekend. We poured 2 4x4'x12" 5000psi footings about 6 weeks ago. I've watched several videos and read the install directions. I was just wondering if there are any tips and tricks I need to know about to avoid any problems. I guess my biggest concern is getting the concrete bolts installed and torqued properly. Thanks.
2-post lift install tips?
- Thread starter jlwdvm
- Start date
Keithinsc
Well-known member
The bolts are not a big problem, just make sure you drill straight. Use a hammer drill. Before you insert the anchors, get a long skinny tube and use your shop vac to get all the dust and debris out of the holes. This will help the anchors bite and hold better.
As for the assembly, try to get an assistant to hand you tools and hardware. I think I was up and down my ladder 500 times when I put mine together!
As for the assembly, try to get an assistant to hand you tools and hardware. I think I was up and down my ladder 500 times when I put mine together!
pattenp
Well-known member
One main thing is to hand torque to set the anchors. Do not use an impact wrench to tighten.
Use a good hammer drill like a Bosch, not the Harbor Freight drill. Use new bits too. Make sure that when you are drilling, the drill bits are vertical. Use a level to insure that. Get a helper to watch the bit.
You didn't say what type of anchors you are going to use. When I installed my MaxJax lift, I had two pads poured just like you did. I decided to use 7" long epoxy anchors instead of the supplied 3-1/2" wedge anchors. If you use epoxy ones, make very sure the holes are clean. Use a shop vac while you are drilling and then make sure the holes are completely free of dust. Use a 12 gauge shotgun brass cleaning brush and gently scrub the walls of the holes. Then vacuum again. Use an air gun to blow down into the holes and vacuum. Repeat a couple of times.
As mentioned, hand torque the bolts to spec. Don't use an air ratchet.
TurboCup87
Well-known member
^^^ all great advice. Just be careful and think and make sure everything is square. Keep rechecking.
NitroShark
Well-known member
Lag one post only first. Square up the 2nd one next, then drill it.
Shawn
Shawn
astroracer
Well-known member
x2 on all the advice here!
The concrete dust is hell on your vacuum.
I had my kids help me with string lines and masking tape on the floor to figure out where the posts should be. I spent more time leveling and squaring it than I did putting it together.
The concrete dust is hell on your vacuum.
I had my kids help me with string lines and masking tape on the floor to figure out where the posts should be. I spent more time leveling and squaring it than I did putting it together.
Vegaman_Dan
Well-known member
SDS drill bits will make your life a much happier one. And a hefty drill to drive them will find use elsewhere in your projects. Cost of a drill versus rental isn't much different so might as well buy one. Yeah, I know, like you need an excuse to buy more tools. 
Placement of your columns will determine what types of vehicles you are lifting. Things to consider:
How much space to each side do you need to work on a vehicle?
Will you be opening the doors of the vehicle while on the lift?
Will the vehicle fit in the garage with the garage door closed?
Do you have enough overhead clearance for the vehicle's roof, lightbar, or other obstructions?
Where are the garage door tracks in relation to the lift or the lifted vehicle?
Since you've already poured your footings, most of this is moot now, but it's worth checking anyways.
Drilling and setting one bolt for the mount first and using that as the template for the rest is definitely the way to go. You ARE going to get one slightly off mark if you use a template no matter how close you follow it. It happens.
Placement of your columns will determine what types of vehicles you are lifting. Things to consider:
How much space to each side do you need to work on a vehicle?
Will you be opening the doors of the vehicle while on the lift?
Will the vehicle fit in the garage with the garage door closed?
Do you have enough overhead clearance for the vehicle's roof, lightbar, or other obstructions?
Where are the garage door tracks in relation to the lift or the lifted vehicle?
Since you've already poured your footings, most of this is moot now, but it's worth checking anyways.
Drilling and setting one bolt for the mount first and using that as the template for the rest is definitely the way to go. You ARE going to get one slightly off mark if you use a template no matter how close you follow it. It happens.
Ppwcanada
Active member
Hi guys, I poured a pad last fall for my new shop. It is 5.5" 5000psi I believe, I remember we upped the PSI over 4500. And fully rebared of course. I see that several people pour footings for the 2 post lift install. I couldn't find a lot of information regarding concrete prep, I had thought that my existing pad would be fine as the steel plate on each column is about 18" x 18". Am I wrong??
mrobins297aaa
Well-known member
you'll be fine, there's a lot of over kill on this board in regards to this stuff.
your biggest problem will be trying to not hit all that rebar with your anchors.
i hope you know where it all is.
coljar
Well-known member
It would be hard for you to do with your concrete being thicker than mine, but I drilled my holes clear through, so if there was a problem with the anchor or I decided some day to remove the hoist, I could drive the anchor down in the dirt and put another one in or grout over the holes.
yuk
Well-known member
I bought a Zircon Metalliscanner M40 to find the steel in my floor. Worked like a charm. takes a little time and use chalk to mark the floor.
http://www.zircon.com/products/metal_m40.html
http://www.zircon.com/products/metal_m40.html
Ppwcanada
Active member
Great advice! I bought a used Ben Pearson 9000# 2 post, and once I started reading here, I was toying with the idea of looking for a 4 post instead.