2 post lift installation next to expansion joint

[[email protected]]

I want to hear the general consensus on installing my two post lift this close to a expansion joint. I don't know much about cement but realize this probably isn't the best of ideas. But I've called a few professionals and they told me it'd be ok. The cement is 4" thick where the anchor bolt goes through and I don't know what is in it for rebar

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[Capt Chrysler]

I say, not good. What does the hoist manufacturer say?

Capt. Chrysler

 

[[email protected]]

Doesn't say anything about expansion joints so I called them and sent pics. They called me back and said that it would be ok. My next option is to pore a new pad and wait 30 days which I'm not all to excited about

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[WhiffySpark]

You need to rip everything out repour 8 inches thick with rebar.

 

[forAK]

Could you move it to the left more? That'd give you more room on the wall side. Looks pretty tight.

 

[[email protected]]

Unfortunately no do to the narrow door

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[[email protected]]

It's a hobby lift. just for changing oil and brakes maybe a bigger job here and there

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[brownbagg]

here the deal, the mfg say do not put by expansion joint, but you going to anyway or you would of never made the post. everybody here has told you, dont do it, but that not going change your mind, so go ahead drill the holes, have a nice life and send pictures when the car falls off the lift. we cant like change your mind in doing something correct

 

[[email protected]]

here the deal, the mfg say do not put by expansion joint, but you going to anyway or you would of never made the post. everybody here has told you, dont do it, but that not going change your mind, so go ahead drill the holes, have a nice life and send pictures when the car falls off the lift. we cant like change your mind in doing something correct

The manufacturer said it would be ok and thats why I made the post cause I disagree. My attitudes better safe then sorry and that's why I'm here making this post.

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[forAK]

The manufacturer said it would be ok and thats why I made the post cause I disagree.

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If you have it in writing, keep it for future reference if something bad happens. Install the lift and go to town!

 

[[email protected]]

Yeap not in writing

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[HRJoe]

How about welding the feet of the posts to a larger plate that a) bridges you out past the joint and b) puts the anchors on both sides of joint. Some heavier duty lifts are made that way anyway.

Anyway, to give you my experience, I've had my same hobby lift installed in two different garages, neither of which were designed for a lift in terms of concrete, and I've had zero issues, not even small cracking. But there were also no signs of poor concrete in either garage (no cracks at all), so I had the assurance that it the concrete wad done right. So take that into consideration (I see two decent sized cracks just in the pictures you've posted).

I'd be more worried if the joint was running across the lift, because in my mind, the columns are more likely to want to lean forward / backward than left / right, based on vehicle weight distribution.

 

[[email protected]]

All good points. Thank you for your input

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[lakeroadster]

My Rotary specifications are as follows: Min Edge Distance - ANSI/ALI ALCTV = 4-1/2".

Since there is a control joint there.. you must assume it is the edge.

That's an ANSI / Automotive Lift Institute Specification.. more on that here: https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/Articles.asp?ID=133

I am betting whomever you talked to, who gave you a verbal OK, doesn't know what they are talking about. The old adage "talk is cheap" applies here.

Any idea what type of reinforcing steel is in the concrete?

 

[koditten]

Got a access to a metal detector? It will pick up RR or mesh.

That's not an expansion joint. Its for controlling cracks. The concrete is still one piece, it just has a score line.

The concrete is gonna crack, might as well try to make it crack where you want it too.

 

[[email protected]]

I've used a metal detector on it and nothing happened so I assume mesh. Do they always put somthing cement?

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[WhiffySpark]

Got a access to a metal detector? It will pick up RR or mesh.

That's not an expansion joint. Its for controlling cracks. The concrete is still one piece, it just has a score line.

The concrete is gonna crack, might as well try to make it crack where you want it too.

Winner

We have lifts within 4 inches of joints at work. I've seen one on top of a joint before. No issues

 

[skulldrinker]

cut a new joint a foot away into the next bay.

 

[koditten]

I've used a metal detector on it and nothing happened so I assume mesh. Do they always put somthing cement?

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Mesh and rebar is used more often than not. I can't remember any instance around here that one or the other was not used in a concrete pour.

I'm surprised you can't pick up a signal.

Your concrete has the normal amount of cracks for a shop and there does not seem to be elevation changes from one side of the crack to the other. If you have a big crack and you can still roll a floor jack across it, then you have bar or mesh holding it in place. (from what I can see in your pics)

 

[koditten]

cut a new joint a foot away into the next bay.

No.

You do not want to create more places for the concrete to crack.

 

[skulldrinker]

but you do want it to crack where you want it to. If you cut with a saw a new joint it will crack there since it will be least resistance then the original control joint. But hey you'll be safe as is so don't do anything.

 

[gordyy]

I have a Rotary 9000 lb lift in my garage. sitting right on a crack in fact one anchor is within 1/2" from the crack. I welded up a spreader to carry the load, every body said don't but I took it as a challenge. Here is what I did so far I have lifted my F250 loaded up at about 8750 lbs. it does wiggle up there but not at the floor zero no movement at all at the floor crack has not moved its just when a big load right at capacity is on something it wiggles LOL that's why you buy under car jack stands. ( I think most of my wiggle is my garage is really too small for the hoist so the truck is not centered perfectly probably 4 inches off from where it should be when lifting. but its lifted a lot of trucks and cars.. no problems!

I did very carefully drill that hole out and used epoxy anchors and had 6 inches of concrete there. also blew and power washed the crack even spread it a bit where it runs under the support beam and expoxied that

 

[wssix99]

but you do want it to crack where you want it to. If you cut with a saw a new joint it will crack there since it will be least resistance then the original control joint. But hey you'll be safe as is so don't do anything.

I like this idea. Looking at the picture, it seems that the floor cracked outside the tooled control joints. (Note to GJ'ers - this is why saw cuts are better...) If there is no crack in the tooled control joint, then it would be safe/normal. If there is a crack - then... it's a crack and the lift/floor system would have reduced lateral stability. (The thing would not be as strong side-to-side.)

I'd first measure the distance to the other cracks in the floor and make sure they are OK. Cleaning out the control joint and spraying some water in there should confirm if there is a crack, or not. If not, adding a sacrificial saw cut joint off to the side, could give you some additional insurance by creating a weak point where any new cracking would occur. (instead of in the tooled joint)

 

[Overhaulin63]

I wonder how this project went, or not.

The additional post floor supports, or something similar, shown in the picture with Kubota Ken from gordyy, look like an alternative. You could spread the load out to a more stable area, but again if the concrete is right to start with.

 

[firebirdparts]

Wouldn’t you like to know the professions of those professionals.

 

[Beemer]

First, that is a control joint, not expansion joint, in your concrete, not cement.

You called professionals; what kind of professionals and did they come out and did you pay them?
Free advice you no recourse if it goes wrong and it's pretty much worth what you paid for it.
If you really want some piece of mind hire a Structural Engineer.

Some have noted that rebar is common, but in over 40 years of building experience I can only think of perhaps half a dozen buildings with rebar in the slabs and they were built for heavy loads like fire and dump trucks, so don't count on it. Even if you were to do nondestructive testing to locate potential reinforcing, you wouldn't know the size and perhaps not the depth in the concrete, which matters.