2 post lift placement... backing in?

[ivan256]

I'm trying to decide where in my bay to place a two post lift.

Probably, there will be long term projects on the lift most of the time, but I'd like the ability to lift and work on my plow truck when it needs it. The bay is 36' deep, and it would be nice to retain the ability to keep two cars deep while one is in lifting position.

I can't decide how far to place the lift columns from the wall.

I don't have or intend to put any benches or tool boxes along the back wall.
I have plenty of space off to the side for that.

I also don't really know what I don't know, so I'm looking for answers to all sorts of probably silly questions that I can't find because everybody seems to already know. I'm hoping some of you might be able to clue me in.

First question: Why are 2-post lifts pretty much exclusively placed such that the vehicle is driven forward onto them towards the wall? If I'm going to pull an engine, I would think it more versatile to place the lift so that the vehicle is backed on. That way I could put the columns as far back in the bay as possible such that my longest vehicle has it's bumper almost against the wall, and have all the room in the world in front of it to maneuver a hoist or forklift.

Second question: The lift I have chosen can be installed in either symmetric or asymmetric configuration (It's an Atlas Apex 10). I also have an F-350 (single cab, long bed 4x4) that I would like to lift. I've read opinions both ways about whether it's fine or terrible to lift a truck like this with an asymmetric lift. It seems like the concern is mostly that since the truck is front heavy it "looks wrong" hanging way out into space on an asymmetric lift... I'm leaning towards symmetric installation regardless. But I was wondering about whether loading a truck like this onto an asymmetric lift facing "the wrong way" would be a reasonable thing to do. If the columns were angled towards the front of the truck, instead of towards the rear, they should end up about mid-way down the length of the truck. Would the arms not reach the lifting points? Is this crazy?

Third question: Assuming I mount my lift in symmetrical configuration, how do I figure out exactly where to line my truck up with the columns?

I'd like to bolt this lift down exactly one time. Hopefully I can learn enough before I do so that I'm not swearing at my past self every time I get a new project!

 

[jptbay]

Most would put the lift closest to the bay door. Lift manufacturers usually have recommended install clearance and placement recommendations.

Often lift posts are around 12' from the bay door opening. You want to leave enough room to be able to walk around the longest vehicle you will lift - leave room for tailgates to drop ect.

Make sure you have enough clearance to side walls. Nothing worse than pulling an axle shaft and having it hit the wall before it will come out.

With the lift in this position you will have all the room you need to pull engines ect.

Easy to route vehicle exhaust out bay door.

Most lifts don't have long term projects left on them. They need to be easily accessed so other jobs that come up can quickly go on them.

Mounted close to the bay door, you could have your long term project in the space ahead of the lift, and roll it forward to the lift as needed, and move it back to the "long term project area" easily, if you needed the lift for a quick repair on another car.

 

[CraigStu]

Asymmetric is done primarily so it's easier to get in and out of. But it works out weight wise also. Since most cars are front heavy, if you put it on the lift symmetrically, you would have more weight out front. Asymmetric intrinsically balances the majority of vehicles so I wouldn't even consider a symmetric lift. On your F-350, find a truck scale and ask if they can weigh just the front and just the rear wheels. This will tell you how the weight is distributed so you can work out how you want to lift it. One thing to consider, you want to look at the weight distribution in reference to the lift posts. In other words, for any given position of the truck in relation to the posts there are probably several places you could put the lift pads. It doesn't matter which you chose. Say your truck weighs 5000# and it is 2600# front and 2400# rear and it is 20 ft bumper to bumper. You could do the math to figure where the center of gravity is (maybe 9-9.5ft back from the front?) and put that spot at the posts.

 

[firebirdparts]

First question: Why are 2-post lifts pretty much exclusively placed such that the vehicle is driven forward onto them towards the wall?

Basically it's just that nobody has a row of toolboxes and a bench where the garage door is. You have to have room to drive there. Their tools are against the wall.

The lift is the greatest tool ever made. If you turn it around a funny way, or make it hard to get on or off, or make it so that you can only walk around it on one side, it'll still be fabulous. that is rule #1. Whatever effort you invest in using it will be the happiest time of your day.

 

[firebirdparts]

Third question: Assuming I mount my lift in symmetrical configuration, how do I figure out exactly where to line my truck up with the columns?

You don't. What you need to do "exactly" is your pick up points. That is super critical. Take your time on the pick up points, always, even on a light car. You do want the CG close to the posts, but there's no requirement that you get it perfect. On my truck, when I pick it up, I have the lift arms spread out about 8 feet, I guess. So if you can guess the CG within 2 feet, then that's pretty close relative to the 8. When you pick it up, you can figure out which end is heavier, if that interests you. The carriage has to hold the force so you'll see which way it tries to go.

 

[Falcon67]

I back in exclusively

 

[finn]

If it’s a certified lift, it should come with a book, published by ALI that shows the pickup points for most cars and light trucks, such that the load is balanced.

 

[SJW]

What Finn said!

In other words, it doesn't matter how the vehicle "looks" when raised, it matters that the vehicle is *balanced*.

Pickup points are the places where the vehicle manufacturer says the vehicle is balanced if you lift it on those points, assuming you haven't removed the engine or put an elephant in the trunk.

 

[firebirdparts]

You all are confused about what pickup points mean, but that is okay. You can look at a unibody car from across the street and easily see that the CG is not halfway between the pickup points.

It won't be outside them, though.

 

[Kaizen]

I placed my lift in the center of my 30 foot deep bay. So right at 15. With a super crew in there I wouldn’t be able to get another car. Imo placing the lift as far forward or back will only be an issue if you have a long vehicle you are not accounting for. I took the better safe then sorry spacing approach


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SJW]

Firebirdparts, if we are all confused about what pickup points mean, what do you think they mean?

 

[ivan256]

Most would put the lift closest to the bay door.

<...>

Easy to route vehicle exhaust out bay door.

Most lifts don't have long term projects left on them. They need to be easily accessed so other jobs that come up can quickly go on them.

Mounted close to the bay door, you could have your long term project in the space ahead of the lift, and roll it forward to the lift as needed, and move it back to the "long term project area" easily, if you needed the lift for a quick repair on another car.

Thanks for all the input everybody!

I think this particular comment had the most influence on my decision. I think I'm going to pick the asymmetric configuration and place the lift near the door. That way I won't have to move a project completely out of the shop to work on the truck or a daily driver.

I did a quick and dirty sketch (using the wrong tools). Everything but the lift is already in that position. I will definitely re-think the positioning of the tablesaw/welding bench (doubles as an outfeed table). Also, rather than be precise I'm going to pull the truck in and eyeball the position of right side column around it. If the truck fits, so will everything else.

View media item 98125

 

[Falcon67]

O/T jptbay LOL

 

[356Guy]

I'm trying to decide where in my bay to place a two post lift.

Probably, there will be long term projects on the lift most of the time, but I'd like the ability to lift and work on my plow truck when it needs it. The bay is 36' deep, and it would be nice to retain the ability to keep two cars deep while one is in lifting position.

I can't decide how far to place the lift columns from the wall.

I don't have or intend to put any benches or tool boxes along the back wall.
I have plenty of space off to the side for that.

I also don't really know what I don't know, so I'm looking for answers to all sorts of probably silly questions that I can't find because everybody seems to already know. I'm hoping some of you might be able to clue me in.

First question: Why are 2-post lifts pretty much exclusively placed such that the vehicle is driven forward onto them towards the wall? If I'm going to pull an engine, I would think it more versatile to place the lift so that the vehicle is backed on. That way I could put the columns as far back in the bay as possible such that my longest vehicle has it's bumper almost against the wall, and have all the room in the world in front of it to maneuver a hoist or forklift.

Second question: The lift I have chosen can be installed in either symmetric or asymmetric configuration (It's an Atlas Apex 10). I also have an F-350 (single cab, long bed 4x4) that I would like to lift. I've read opinions both ways about whether it's fine or terrible to lift a truck like this with an asymmetric lift. It seems like the concern is mostly that since the truck is front heavy it "looks wrong" hanging way out into space on an asymmetric lift... I'm leaning towards symmetric installation regardless. But I was wondering about whether loading a truck like this onto an asymmetric lift facing "the wrong way" would be a reasonable thing to do. If the columns were angled towards the front of the truck, instead of towards the rear, they should end up about mid-way down the length of the truck. Would the arms not reach the lifting points? Is this crazy?

Third question: Assuming I mount my lift in symmetrical configuration, how do I figure out exactly where to line my truck up with the columns?

I'd like to bolt this lift down exactly one time. Hopefully I can learn enough before I do so that I'm not swearing at my past self every time I get a new project!

My garage is 38' deep, my 2 post lift is a Bendpak 10,000 lb Asymmetric lift. I went with it forward in the bay - about 12' from the front wall, for the exact reason you stated, it makes it easier to have projects on the lift and parking behind. The one thing I did consider prior to going with the asymmetric lift is whether or not I wanted to use it with the vehicle forward or backed in. I decided I could do whatever I needed with the vehicle in the forward position. I did think that if I was going to do work with the vehicle backed in I would have gone with the symmetric lift as it provides more flexibility for that type of thing. My pickup does hang out the back and looks a little funny, but not at all unbalanced or tippy. Oh, and as someone else mentioned, my Bendpak came with a pretty thick book showing where to position the lift points on many cars and trucks - that said, common sense plays a role there too. I do have a 4 post lift for parking and do use it for projects where the cars will be out of service for a while as it just provides more flexibility for multiple projects and parking. That lift is closer to the garage door, the one thing to think about there is the garage door configuration to clear when there is a vehicle on the lift. Good luck, lots to think about but a 2 post lift is a game changer.

 

[ivan256]

The one thing I did consider prior to going with the asymmetric lift is whether or not I wanted to use it with the vehicle forward or backed in. I decided I could do whatever I needed with the vehicle in the forward position. I did think that if I was going to do work with the vehicle backed in I would have gone with the symmetric lift as it provides more flexibility for that type of thing.

I was considering sticking with symmetric so that I could either pull in OR back in. However with the lift near the door, the only way the truck cab will clear the opener is when it is facing inwards. Also, since my ceiling is only 13', the posts have to be in further than the tracks and opener as well. I could switch to a column style opener, but that would only buy me a foot.

I suppose I shouldn't be surprised that weeks of deliberation I ended with me putting the thing pretty much where everybody else puts it. But at least I feel like I understand why now.

 

[jptbay]

O/T jptbay LOL

I find Sporticus hilarious.

 

[u2slow]

My garage is 38' deep, my 2 post lift is a Bendpak 10,000 lb Asymmetric lift. I went with it forward in the bay - about 12' from the front wall, for the exact reason you stated, it makes it easier to have projects on the lift and parking behind. The one thing I did consider prior to going with the asymmetric lift is whether or not I wanted to use it with the vehicle forward or backed in. I decided I could do whatever I needed with the vehicle in the forward position.

Most would put the lift closest to the bay door....

Most lifts don't have long term projects left on them. They need to be easily accessed so other jobs that come up can quickly go on them.

Mounted close to the bay door, you could have your long term project in the space ahead of the lift, and roll it forward to the lift as needed, and move it back to the "long term project area" easily, if you needed the lift for a quick repair on another car.

This is very good discussion for my 20x36' double-deep shop. Thank you

 

[GRivera]

If a lift is closer to the entry way vs far wall, does one need a high lift garage door to clear?

 

[u2slow]

If a lift is closer to the entry way vs far wall, does one need a high lift garage door to clear?

I got my 14' door with extra track.... 4' per side IIRC. I have just shy of 20' ceiling.

 

[jptbay]

If a lift is closer to the entry way vs far wall, does one need a high lift garage door to clear?

Depends on door height, but not usually. Lifts are usually about 12 feet or more from floor.

 

[MrSurly]

My shop is 40' deep (actually 40'6" outside) and because I put big doors in the long as well as the short sides, I had to place my lift (2post asym) as close to the door as possible to avoid crowding the 18' door on the side. The largest vehicle I planned for is my DMax crew swb. I placed the post centers 13' from the door and it fits.... but juuuuuussst barely at the rear.

 

[CJseven]

I had mine 20 foot off the back wall , the building is 45 foot deep, and set up to back on. I do a lot of race car work and long term stuff, also when you bring in something on a trailer you back up to the door and roll it off the trailer straight in on the lift.

 

[Falcon67]

If a lift is closer to the entry way vs far wall, does one need a high lift garage door to clear?

Not possible in my space LOL - I have the top of the door covered with thick pipe foam. It goes up about half way and lands right on the grill of the Falcon. Fortunately, it comes up enough to park the dragster under the car if I take the scoop off before rolling it in.

 

[GRivera]

What is minimum door track height needed to clear a lift with 12’ posts?

 

[ivan256]

What is minimum door track height needed to clear a lift with 12’ posts?

Unless your opening is extra tall, you might not need to worry about it, since the lift will be far enough inside the door that the tracks will have ended.

However, you can look at the height requirements for whatever lift you pick to see what is needed.

 

[GRivera]

I’m concerned about having a vehicle on lift and the garage door being opened inadvertently/hitting vehicle.

 

[sreeb]

If it’s a certified lift, it should come with a book, published by ALI that shows the pickup points for most cars and light trucks, such that the load is balanced.

If it isn't certified you can, and should, buy the book for $15.

https://www.autolift.org/ali-store/ali-lifting-it-right-safety-manual/