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2 post lift placement

NHBandit

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Tried doing a search but not getting many answers. Here is my situation. I am building a 30x40 garage and the overhead doors are on the 40' span so my bay the lift is going in will be 30' deep. 12' walls with scissor trusses so height should not be an issue. I want to have benches & my toolboxes on the back wall so would prefer to have the lift closer to the door rather than centered in the bay. What have you other guys done in this respect ? I will not be working on anything longer than a full size pickup truck and it's a hobby garage not commercial. Concrete guys are coming soon and going to put in some rebar and make the floor thicker where the lift posts are going so I need to get this figured out ASAP. Thanks
 
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fiveohpatrol

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my advice would be to go as thick as you need on the entire slab, that way you can put it anywhere you want, and if you need to move it later, you can.

The "thicker in the area of the lift" idea is somewhat debatable anyway. The real concern with a 2 post is transverse loading, not just the force of the post pushing straight down into the slab.
 
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NHBandit

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Not in the budget but thanks. Anyone else have a reccomendation as to how far from the door to put the lift ?
 

fiveohpatrol

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Keep in mind there will be a difference in position for a symmetrical vs asymmetrical lift.

For asymmetric, my instructions recommended 9-10ft from the front wall (or benches in your case). For symmetric, they recommended 12ft.
 

myslow2002gt

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I just installed my symmetrical lift 12' from the bay door (shop is 40' deep though) and have more than enough room on all sides, even with a full size truck.
 

HIRISC

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BendPak symmetric & asymmetric 2 post instructions below.

They have a decent diagram for placement.

http://www.bendpak.com/XPR-10-10A REV A 01-03-11.pdf

I'll spare you the agony of downloading it - footprint .jpg below:

Good reading for all two post lift owners:
http://www.bendpak.com/support/balancing-safety/


2PostClearances.jpg
 
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FunkyfullWidth

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Three Rivers, ma
I put mine 13' off the back wall. I wanted to have enough room to move around the hood and be able to open my tool box which is right in front of the lift. should be more then enough room.
 

kvom

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I have a F350 crew cab with an 8' bed, about the longest fullsize pickup you're likely to find. I positioned my lift so that I can close the doors with the truck on the lift.
 

432bullet

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KVOM do you have a picture, I have the same pick up and have been looking at lift placement. Thanks
 

laser3kw

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hey NHBandit
you just described the exact building I built with the same intentions for a lift. I prepared for a future lift 12' from the door. The area that each post will mount was pored 12" deep in a 3' x 3' square around that 12' center from the door. The extra thick pads were incorporated with the rebar through out the entire floor.You can kind of see the door end in the picture, it is a 16' wide bay 12' wall.The rest of the building is a 10' wall with a 2' drop truss which gives me a upper storage area with a 6' height at the peak. You can see the door track run up the scissor truss
 

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laser3kw

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here are other pics, sorry it's dark, working on electric right now.
 

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NHBandit

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here are other pics, sorry it's dark, working on electric right now.
Thanks. About the only difference is I went with 2 10x10 overhead doors side by side and the lift is going in the one towards the center of the building. Here's the rendering the builder sent me.
 

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KPSquared

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Pouring thicker for the hoist is pointless. Pretty much every hoist requires 4" of 3000psi concrete. Anything over that is overkill.

I plan to put mine 14 feet from the door. Based on my numbers, a crew cab long box should fit.
 
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NHBandit

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KPSquared you're certainly entitled to your opinion but.. I have been reading alot of lift manufacturers reccomendations and I'm seeing several that want a "minimum" of 4" 4000psi and a couple that say 4 1/2" so apparantly the correct spec is not carved in stone. I prefer to be absolutely sure I never have a problem so I'm going with 4" of 4000psi on the entire floor and 6" reinforced with rebar in a 4' square where each post will go. This is not what I posted about and cutting corners isn't an option for me. The concrete guy who has done hundreds of these and has 3 full time crews doing nothing but concrete work offered to do where the lift is going thicker at no extra charge based on his past experience. I do appreciate alll the advice though. Mainly I was looking for tips on how far to put it from the overhead door and I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with 14' That leaves me plenty of room across the back wall in front of whatever is on the lift. Having the lift fairly close to the door is something I want to do as well though so I can take advantage of the free light from the sun on nice days and work with the doors open. Thanks all !
 
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KPSquared

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Thank you for telling me I'm allowed to have my opinion. . .I'm relieved. . .:p

14' should do it for you and still leave 8 or so feet in front of a big truck.

My comment was based on several discussions on here but I guess Mohawk (and others? ) spec thicker 'crete. Bendpak, Atlas, etc all seem to spec 4" of 3000psi. Pretty mimimal cost difference if you're only pouring thicker on small area either way.

Are you going with high lift doors that follow the ceiling up?
 

mattmankow

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Westminster, Maryland 21158
I have a 30x50. I positioned the lift closer to the front wall then the door, as you are planning. I can fit a cclb dually with enough room for benches in front and about three feet to walk, work or stand in front.
All vehicles I've lifted are longer in the rear of the lift than the front with the correct positioning. I would bias the lift further forward.
 

laser3kw

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Pouring thicker for the hoist is pointless.
:headscrat
But! the contractor offered it at no extra charge! In my case, two 3' x 3' x 12" pads was, according to him, " it is just a extra swipe or two when they prepare the site and the addition concert is barely noticeable. So, why not? I would rather have the extra thickness "just 'cause" rather than have a unforeseen problem because it is not there.:thumbup:
 
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brownbagg

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just find the biggest vehicle you have and park it where the door b close and you are comfitable, that where the lift goes.
 
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wedge40

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Bloomington, IN
I went back 12' from the back wall and poured 2 4'x4'x8" pads for the posts. I'll have about $5k in cement, whats another 100 bucks or so.


Wedge
 

kenners

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SE Wa State
My 10K Mohawk lift is in the 30' X 30' section of my shed.
It's 15' 8" from the center of my lift to the inside edge of the door.
My longest vehicle is a 2008 F350 club cab with an 8' box.
 

CamarosRus

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Renton, WA (Seattle)
I want to share my ROTARY SPOA9 (Asymtric 9000#) Two Post Install experience.

I bought my above lift from a ROTARY (mfg in Madison, IN) dealer. It is in very good condition and had been removed from a LEXUS dealership in 2006 when they moved buildings.

My two columns are placed a little over 14' from the roll up door behind the lift.
I have a four post lift directly ahead of the two post and I need to maximize 100% of my
shop sq footage. (pics are on my phone and I need to xfer to photobucket)

My slab is 4" at best. I bought my home with this shop already built. I have added the epoxy floor and lifts so far.

The ROTARY dealer/installer drilled 3/4" holes through the slab. Using POWERS brand wedge anchor bolts, their are six fasteners to each base plate. Some of these wedge anchors were pulling up upon tightening...would not torque at all.

We stopped the install while I went Home Depot and bought SIMPSON brand anchor bolt epoxy in the single tube application. After applying the epoxy and letting the fasteners sit for 3+ days I started torquing. ROTARY calls for 150#. My dealer claims
that ROTARY uses that spec in the event that you had a 9000 lb load fully lifted and their was a 7.2 earthquake.

Anyway I got a few of my fasteners to torque at 150# but the othersI stopped at 125#.

Dont know why the SIMPSON epoxy didnt work better ???

Dont know what I can do now even if I wanted to.

Heaviest thing I'll be lifting is my 6900# DODGE Cummins Long Bed RAM......
but mostly building 70' Camaros and maintaining misc family sedans.

Fire suit on...go ahead flame me and beat me up !!!
 
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NHBandit

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Thanks Chuck. Nice to see a familiar face on here. Also a Team Camaro member. And to clarify concerning the thickness where the lift pads are going.. The guy is not charging for that and it was his suggestion based on past experience so who am I to question it. I am good at many things. Those things I am not good at I leave to the experts. My concrete guy has been doing this all his life, is older than dirt, and has 3 full time crews doing nothing but concrete everyday. I don't question guys like that when they tell me something. :beer:
 

432bullet

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Kvom Thanks, My f350 is a dually, but the balance point should be real close to yours.
 

KPSquared

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Keep in mind the posts are going to be at a different point on the truck with a symmetric hoist.

There are lots of pics of an F350 on a hoist on the greg smith website. Shows you where the posts will sit on a symmetric lift. Looks further back than those pics.

Just a thought.
 

avc8130

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Jan 24, 2008
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I checked the plans, and the posts are 16' from the door. Lift is assymetric.

large.jpg

I don't mean to drag this thread from the grave, but I have to ask.

I am looking at used Mohawk lifts. The local Mohawk distributor has both A-7 (7k lb) and System 1 (original, 9k lb) lifts. I own a crew cab diesel also.

The distributor said no way, no how would he sell me an A7 knowing I plan to lift my truck. He said the truck weighs more than 7k lbs (I have proven this at the scrap yard) and the A7 just wouldn't be safe.

Now I see this pic, and you clearly have a crew cab diesel long bed on your A7. Any thoughts about this?

ac
 

KPSquared

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I personally would never do what is pictured. Putting a vehilce that is heavier than the hoist is rated for is a bad idea. Sure it can handle it, but "right tool for the job"? No.

My F350 weighs 7400lbs ish with fuel.

The Mohawk could handle it but why push your luck?
 

avc8130

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What year? 2wd or 4wd?



That was for a 2012. Clearly the truck in the post is older than that. The truck in the post is either a 6.0 or 7.3 (I'm not THAT good with my Fords).

With curb weights in the 6500 lb range it seems pretty easy to slip above the lift capacity with fuel/tools/bedliners/plow frames/hitches/etc.

ac
 

lt1driver

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my pad will be 15x22 feet, 8" thick at 5000psi for sys 1 mohawk...pad is max I can do in city...:(
 

cudaboy

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Raleigh, nc
I just went with a 6" thick pad and 4kpsi concrete through the entire shop. and used the steel meshing and re barb around the perimeter. It was a little more then the reg 4" cost but I also have a 10x54 mill and didn't want the weight if that also cracking the floor in conjunction of my lift.
 

e-tek

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Pouring thicker for the hoist is pointless. Pretty much every hoist requires 4" of 3000psi concrete. Anything over that is overkill.
.

I personally would never do what is pictured. Putting a vehilce that is heavier than the hoist is rated for is a bad idea. Sure it can handle it, but "right tool for the job"? No.

Holy **** KP, agin the government much? :lol_hitti
:willy_nil
 

KPSquared

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Not sure what that means. . . I'll give you a chance to fix it. :p

If manufacturer says 4", 3000psi, why go bigger? How many lifts have cracked or ripped out of properly spec'd concrete?

I still stand by the fact that 8000lb on a 7000lb hoist is not advisable.

Not sure what you're getting at e-tek.
 
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