2 post lift question
- Thread starter Fordguy02
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DiscoBerry
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they should lift it but i think you should be looking at a 10k lift to be safe and make sure its got symmetric arms
brettwind102
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10k has in 10,000$ for a lift kit if so wow i didnt know they cost that much
I was looking at a 10k rated lift but if a 9k would do the job I'd like to save the extra $500 but I guess what's $500 if it brakes while my truck is over someones head while they are working on it. I was hoping maybe someone has had experience with a crew cab superduty on a 9k 2 post lift if it safe or not
brettwind102
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10k your talking about 10,000$?
brettwind102
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oh its cool i was like wow i need to start making lift kits lol
I have looked at atlas lifts also. The 9000lbs Derek weaver lift is super symmetric and direct drive not the leaf chain style that all other 9000lbs lifts seem to be. I know most 10000lbs lifts are direct drive and cost $500+ more than the Derek weaver lift.
joebiodiesel
Well-known member
I've got an Atlas OH-10X that I put my Dodge Cummins 2500 Extended Cab on. I wouldn't recommend using a lift any lighter than that, and if you plan on doing any heavy work on that truck, where you are muscling the truck around you better use some post jacks to stabilize it. A $2000.00 lift is definitely not built like a $7000.00 one.
yuk
Well-known member
i have a Derek Weaver W9D in red.
it works fine.
one of the release mechanisms had a piece slightly welded in the wrong place. it took me a while to realize a simple fix.
even if it had been welded correctly, it had a good chance of being a PITA in the future. the small mod i made corrected it and it should work forever without issue.
i needed some help to safely stand up the main posts but completed assembly by myself.
along the way i decided to upgrade most of the structural bolts because when they drilled the holes for many of them i didnt like how too big they were for the bolts that were assigned to each hole.
the bolts i used filled each hole better and helps me sleep at night.
all in all, my only gripe about the finished install is i wish the fluid tank was translucent instead of black.
someone should find the guy designing black or any non see through tank and kick him in the nutz.
all of my friends, neighbors and family that have used it think it was a great choice and some have even stated they would buy the same thing if they were buying for themselves.
and a few of those guys are 25+ years professional mechanics.
it works fine.
one of the release mechanisms had a piece slightly welded in the wrong place. it took me a while to realize a simple fix.
even if it had been welded correctly, it had a good chance of being a PITA in the future. the small mod i made corrected it and it should work forever without issue.
i needed some help to safely stand up the main posts but completed assembly by myself.
along the way i decided to upgrade most of the structural bolts because when they drilled the holes for many of them i didnt like how too big they were for the bolts that were assigned to each hole.
the bolts i used filled each hole better and helps me sleep at night.
all in all, my only gripe about the finished install is i wish the fluid tank was translucent instead of black.
someone should find the guy designing black or any non see through tank and kick him in the nutz.
all of my friends, neighbors and family that have used it think it was a great choice and some have even stated they would buy the same thing if they were buying for themselves.
and a few of those guys are 25+ years professional mechanics.
AMCguy
Well-known member
There are 9,000 lb lifts that will lift and support a 9,000 lb load but just standing near it (let alone under it) when it's loaded takes some courage.
If you really want a lift to work under when it's lifting what its rated to lift, I recommend paying the extra for a 10,000 lb. It's usually (depending on the manufacturer) a whole different class of lift.
If you really want a lift to work under when it's lifting what its rated to lift, I recommend paying the extra for a 10,000 lb. It's usually (depending on the manufacturer) a whole different class of lift.
yuk
Well-known member
alot of 10k lifts you see are certified by ALI, most 9k lifts arent.
Shadowdog500
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I would also reccomend getting a 10,000 lb lift, because i garuntee you will have heavy trucks up that lift, once all your friends find out you have a lift. I would also spend the extra money for an ALI certified lift(and I don't really care what brand). It will give you piece of mind when you have 8,000lb. Sitting over your head.
Chris
Chris
brettwind102
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nice truck
pattenp
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Lifts are tested for weights way beyond what they are rated at. 9000lb vs. 10000lb is splitting hairs. One critical thing to look at is the floor to which the lift is mounted. If the floor doesn't meet required specs then is doesn't mean squat to have a 10000lb lift over a 9000lb lift. If this is a hobby lift I believe you'll be happy with a 9000lb lift. As I said before, make sure your floor meets or exceeds the requirements.
The floor is 4" but I'm thinking about cutting it out and digging down and putting rebar in to make sure and yes it's mainly a hobby lift only used a few times a month to lift my 2002 f250 ccsb diesel 4x4 mainly will have half tons and cars on it.
tonycastec
Well-known member
Hobby or not you need a strong floor ! Safety stands are a potential life/limb saver. Have you considered a used Mohawk? I lift a Dodge diesel on mine. AS a precaution I also brace to tops of the columns to an overhead beam. I was sure the bracing would flex a little when lifting & lowering.I was thinking this would give me some warning of out of balance or similar problems. In practice, the Mohawk columns just do not move ! I did spend a lot of time shimming ,aligning and generally being very careful about plumb/level/true. I did not use conventional anchor bolts .I used "Titen" bolts to the correct torque+epoxy. Drill the holes all the way through the concrete. If you are laying a new pad for each column you can set old fashioned "J" bolts but you need to be perfect in positioning and leveling!
Just my experience and 2 cents.
Just my experience and 2 cents.
as far as floor requirements go/ like 2 months ago, I did a search of some the various manufacturers regarding "their" concrete requirements for what ever 2 post lift they sell of equal capacities to the competitors, as I have a Weaver 9K (no not a Derek Weaver-- I mean an old solid original Weaver) that I am about to put up;
there were some differences in concrete spec, which surprised me; because as 9K lbs is 9K lbs no matter what brand the lift is that holds that weight over your head.
I have recently looked at several other local lifts at various shops from the HS Career Center, to a couple of exhaust shops and a local Dodge dealership a buddy works at, especially looking to compare what I have vs. what I don't....
and I have seen vast differences in different brands and different-aged lifts that have the same capacities; size of base plate, thickness of columns, etc. Not only in lift features and construction details but in minimum concrete specs, as well.
I looked at several manufacturers' concrete requirements (Rotary, Bend Pak, Mohawk, among others) because the company that built mine was bought out and no longer exists, and I had a tough time finding out what "they" wanted for a base. Most 7-9K capacity, 2 post wanted, ~4-4.5" of 3000lb coincrete. Some specced 4000# concrete mix, no mention of rebar (or not) by anyone but Mohawk.
I did eventually find Weaver's specs> and they, and Mohawk, have the "toughest" specs;
On an established and cured (min 28 days) slab, these both wanted a min of 6" thick, and specced a truck mix and said to never put a lift on hand mixed 'crete. If you gotta cut out the floor and repour, these 2 companies wanted a 4' wide pad X12 ft across, and a min of a foot thick, tied in with rebar to the existing slab, and dug out larger beneath the existing slab as well, so that the new 'crete "keys into" the existing slab.
ALM (another lift company that I *believe* to not exist any more) is the brand we have at work. All 4 are 9K capacity, as my "home" lift is. I never did look up ALM for their 'crete spec, but wow they have one of the smallest "footprints" of any base plate on a lift column that I have seen.
and the local exhaust shop that did the duals on my son's truck has some of the newest Rotarys I have seen. man they seem like flimsey **** compared to older Rotary's... makes my same-capacity-rated lift "look like" (no, I aint gonna try) it could handle about 20K if the lift cylinders could handle that load....
I don't get why one company says they want 4" minimum of 3000PSI mix with no mention of rebar while others say 4" of 4000# mix and still others want 6" of 4000# mix PLUS rebar spaced every foot (Mohawk) and these are all for same-capacity lifts as each other?
Though mine may be "rated" for 9K, I don't see ever lifting that much, my son's truck has a GVW of 8600 sure but I dont see puttin it up in the air with a bed full of gravel either; empty, the truck is closer to 6000. otherwise I have a Dakota, a Cherokee, a Wrangler and a '78 Plymouth Fury Sport.
but it's nice to know I "can" lift that much, if I needed to.
there were some differences in concrete spec, which surprised me; because as 9K lbs is 9K lbs no matter what brand the lift is that holds that weight over your head.
I have recently looked at several other local lifts at various shops from the HS Career Center, to a couple of exhaust shops and a local Dodge dealership a buddy works at, especially looking to compare what I have vs. what I don't....
and I have seen vast differences in different brands and different-aged lifts that have the same capacities; size of base plate, thickness of columns, etc. Not only in lift features and construction details but in minimum concrete specs, as well.
I looked at several manufacturers' concrete requirements (Rotary, Bend Pak, Mohawk, among others) because the company that built mine was bought out and no longer exists, and I had a tough time finding out what "they" wanted for a base. Most 7-9K capacity, 2 post wanted, ~4-4.5" of 3000lb coincrete. Some specced 4000# concrete mix, no mention of rebar (or not) by anyone but Mohawk.
I did eventually find Weaver's specs> and they, and Mohawk, have the "toughest" specs;
On an established and cured (min 28 days) slab, these both wanted a min of 6" thick, and specced a truck mix and said to never put a lift on hand mixed 'crete. If you gotta cut out the floor and repour, these 2 companies wanted a 4' wide pad X12 ft across, and a min of a foot thick, tied in with rebar to the existing slab, and dug out larger beneath the existing slab as well, so that the new 'crete "keys into" the existing slab.
ALM (another lift company that I *believe* to not exist any more) is the brand we have at work. All 4 are 9K capacity, as my "home" lift is. I never did look up ALM for their 'crete spec, but wow they have one of the smallest "footprints" of any base plate on a lift column that I have seen.
and the local exhaust shop that did the duals on my son's truck has some of the newest Rotarys I have seen. man they seem like flimsey **** compared to older Rotary's... makes my same-capacity-rated lift "look like" (no, I aint gonna try) it could handle about 20K if the lift cylinders could handle that load....
I don't get why one company says they want 4" minimum of 3000PSI mix with no mention of rebar while others say 4" of 4000# mix and still others want 6" of 4000# mix PLUS rebar spaced every foot (Mohawk) and these are all for same-capacity lifts as each other?
Though mine may be "rated" for 9K, I don't see ever lifting that much, my son's truck has a GVW of 8600 sure but I dont see puttin it up in the air with a bed full of gravel either; empty, the truck is closer to 6000. otherwise I have a Dakota, a Cherokee, a Wrangler and a '78 Plymouth Fury Sport.
but it's nice to know I "can" lift that much, if I needed to.