Those of you that have put in 2 post lifts, what kind of work are you able to do now that you weren't before the lift? Now that you have the lift, is there anything that you still do on ramps/jackstands such as oil changes or do you do everything on the lift? What type of lift do you have & does the rated capacity seem realistic or is it like the craftsman horsepower ie: a 10,000 lb rated lift having trouble lifting a 8,000 lb truck? If you have had anything close to the rated capacity on it, does it seem solid or does it move around a bit when you work on something? Have you had to deal with customer service & if so, were they helpful after the sale? Are parts readily available? Are you satisfied with the purchase & would you buy the same lift over again or go with something else the next time? What maintainance is required on the lift you have? Trying to psych myself up into getting one & trying to weigh all the options, crawling under the car in the winter with snow & **** melting on me while it is on car ramps is getting to be for the birds & I ain't getting any younger.
2 post lift questions
- Thread starter SteveU
- Start date
Mike of the North
Well-known member
I was getting ready to post a similar question, I am looking forward to getting some info from this post. I am also interested in two post vs four post lift pros and cons.
FlameOut
Well-known member
Here is a very recent post from the GRM board:
"Obviously, each person has their own reasons for buying one or the other, and neither is perfect. My opinion is that the compromises of a 4-post are less than a 2 post. I do alignments on my 4 post, something I can't do on a 2 post. The needs of a professional shop are different than a home owner. If shops do alignments they have alignment racks for the job, homeowners generally don't. But with some I extra equipment I can do very accurate alignments on my rack. Like I said before, add jacks to a 4-post and it can do anything a 2-post can do, but not the other way around. I have never had a situation where the ramps or the jacks got in my way enough that I couldn't do the job I needed to do.
Here's something that played into my decision that nobody has mentioned. I have a really bad back. So bad that if I didn't get a lift I was going to have to stop working on cars. Bending down and adjusting the arms of a 2 post is too hard on my back. Picking up tires is also hard on my back, and it's a real plus that when I remove them I can set them on the ramps instead of the floor. A 4 post rack also requires less of a floor, and most are or can be free standing, so they can be moved around easily for cleaning. I take mine out in the driveway to do any pressurewashing of undercarriages or sandblasting, so I don't get my shop dirty. It's also nice in the summer to work outside where there is a breeze instead of in a hot shop. And I can get in and out of my car without the columns getting in the way like with a 2 post. I often work under my dash from outside the car - that would be difficult or impossible with a 2-post. Overall, a 4 post is safer also. Just some food for thought."
This seems to be just the opposite opinion that most of the board memebers here express.
Also there is the hassle of jacking the car up off the ramps and the expense of buying the equipment to do this jacking.
Who's right?
"Obviously, each person has their own reasons for buying one or the other, and neither is perfect. My opinion is that the compromises of a 4-post are less than a 2 post. I do alignments on my 4 post, something I can't do on a 2 post. The needs of a professional shop are different than a home owner. If shops do alignments they have alignment racks for the job, homeowners generally don't. But with some I extra equipment I can do very accurate alignments on my rack. Like I said before, add jacks to a 4-post and it can do anything a 2-post can do, but not the other way around. I have never had a situation where the ramps or the jacks got in my way enough that I couldn't do the job I needed to do.
Here's something that played into my decision that nobody has mentioned. I have a really bad back. So bad that if I didn't get a lift I was going to have to stop working on cars. Bending down and adjusting the arms of a 2 post is too hard on my back. Picking up tires is also hard on my back, and it's a real plus that when I remove them I can set them on the ramps instead of the floor. A 4 post rack also requires less of a floor, and most are or can be free standing, so they can be moved around easily for cleaning. I take mine out in the driveway to do any pressurewashing of undercarriages or sandblasting, so I don't get my shop dirty. It's also nice in the summer to work outside where there is a breeze instead of in a hot shop. And I can get in and out of my car without the columns getting in the way like with a 2 post. I often work under my dash from outside the car - that would be difficult or impossible with a 2-post. Overall, a 4 post is safer also. Just some food for thought."
This seems to be just the opposite opinion that most of the board memebers here express.
Also there is the hassle of jacking the car up off the ramps and the expense of buying the equipment to do this jacking.
Who's right?
Skyking1992
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2006
- Messages
- 475
I have a two post lift and I love it. My only regret is not having it 30 years ago. I bought mine used (Mohawk) and I have had no issues with maintenance or service. I can't comment on customer service or parts - haven't needed anything yet. It's rated at 10,000 lbs. I use it regularly for my Chevy Suburban and it's rock solid. My wife and I autocross regularly, so changing tires and brakes is almost a weekly activity in the summer. It sure makes those jobs easy. I can't recall crawling under a car on ramps once since I've had the lift. Would I do the same again? Absolutely.
Skyking1992
Skyking1992
M3Pilot
Well-known member
I'm trying to decide too. Keep the responses coming.
mikeyr
Well-known member
I agree with CarGuy, this forum is absolutely biased towards 2-post lifts so you will get lots of replies against 4-posts. I think the average homeowner is best served with a 4-post since you can also use it for storage and you can do anything on a 4 that you can do on a 2.
I will agree that a 2-post is way more convenient for suspension or brake work but I also hope that you only do that once and that you don't have to redo your brakes 3-4 times because you did it wrong the first few times. So the time spent getting all 4-wheels off the car is minor.
There are advantages with 4-post when its nice and sunny outside and you want to work on your car or for cleaning with a pressure washer (never thought of that one). You don't have to bolt them down so and your garage slab does not have to be 6" and other homeowner advantages.
I kind of have both since I have 4-post and a scissor lift which behaves like a 2-post.
Mike
I will agree that a 2-post is way more convenient for suspension or brake work but I also hope that you only do that once and that you don't have to redo your brakes 3-4 times because you did it wrong the first few times. So the time spent getting all 4-wheels off the car is minor.
There are advantages with 4-post when its nice and sunny outside and you want to work on your car or for cleaning with a pressure washer (never thought of that one). You don't have to bolt them down so and your garage slab does not have to be 6" and other homeowner advantages.
I kind of have both since I have 4-post and a scissor lift which behaves like a 2-post.
Mike
I recently bought a Rotary 10K asymmetrical lift. Holy smokes, I wish I had this years ago. I do all my maintenance using it. I have my 67' pontiac sitting on it now, the legs are touching the frame, but the car is on the floor. I am swapping a new manifold and 4bbl onto it, and I lifted it to drain the radiator, then brought it down so I could work on it.
Largest vehicle I lift regularly is my Dodge Ram Cummins truck. It's probably over 8K pounds and it lifts it flawlessly. I love the asymmetrical posts, I can easily open my doors and get in and out of the vehicles, and I'm by no means small.
It was a no brainer to go 2-post vs. 4 post. If you do a lot of work on multiple vehicles you'll agree. You can indeed use a 2-post for storage as well. I runa bodyshop for a large dealership. The dealerships service department uses 2 post and in ground lifts, good enough for me. I prefer my equipment to be as heavy duty as possible.
Whatever you do, get a quality lift, installed properly and abide by all safety rules and warnings.
Or this could happen.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1419373
Largest vehicle I lift regularly is my Dodge Ram Cummins truck. It's probably over 8K pounds and it lifts it flawlessly. I love the asymmetrical posts, I can easily open my doors and get in and out of the vehicles, and I'm by no means small.
It was a no brainer to go 2-post vs. 4 post. If you do a lot of work on multiple vehicles you'll agree. You can indeed use a 2-post for storage as well. I runa bodyshop for a large dealership. The dealerships service department uses 2 post and in ground lifts, good enough for me. I prefer my equipment to be as heavy duty as possible.
Whatever you do, get a quality lift, installed properly and abide by all safety rules and warnings.
Or this could happen.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1419373
I have a two post and would never consider not having one. I rarely use my jack/jack stands. The lift was easily $ well spent. If you are crawling under cars for any longer than ten minutes then when you get a lift it will be one of those...well, dugh moments and you will ask yourself why you did not do it sooner, at least I did.
In my mind a four post lift is most functional for storage, and a two post is superior for service. never having to put your jack under a car is nice. That is just my personal opinion and I am sure the four post guys will argue the point, but I have done many under car jobs (transmissions, exhaust, fuel tanks) that I know the four post lift would have been in the way and not as functional.
I have a Rotary and had the local dealer answer all the questions re which one is right, what each model could safely lift, etc. I also had them install the lift, because I am trusting my life to this thing I do not think it is an area to save a few bucks by doing it myself. Did not buy a used one for the same reason.
In my mind a four post lift is most functional for storage, and a two post is superior for service. never having to put your jack under a car is nice. That is just my personal opinion and I am sure the four post guys will argue the point, but I have done many under car jobs (transmissions, exhaust, fuel tanks) that I know the four post lift would have been in the way and not as functional.
I have a Rotary and had the local dealer answer all the questions re which one is right, what each model could safely lift, etc. I also had them install the lift, because I am trusting my life to this thing I do not think it is an area to save a few bucks by doing it myself. Did not buy a used one for the same reason.
A four post lift would solve the ground clearance issue I have with a 2 post lift. I absolutely need no more than a 3" ground clearance and even that would be tight. I can't find that in a 2 post lift. I have seen several work arounds but they end up being in the way when you try to work on the car.
On the other hand I can't get my cars up on an alignment rack at most shops. If the ramps take the car up to about waist height then usually the ramps are too short so the nose of the cars wants to hit. I am thinking that won't be an issue with a 4 post lift since the ramps don't take you up very high.
I like the simplicity of the 2 post with nothing in the way when you want to work on the cars. I will be doing brake and tire swaps often. Changing street tires out for track tires/brakes if nothing else.
I don't need storage space so that aspect of a 4 post is wasted on me. Being able to reposition the lift might be nice to do special things like the power wash the underneath, but let's get real, how often would that happen?
I don't like the aspect of having to lift my car and then having to jack my car to work on it with the 4 post. But it would be nice to be able to do alignments myself.
It seems that doing ****** swaps would be easier on a 2 post.
I WANT IT ALL!!! I want the perfect world 2 & 4 post lift combo.
On the other hand I can't get my cars up on an alignment rack at most shops. If the ramps take the car up to about waist height then usually the ramps are too short so the nose of the cars wants to hit. I am thinking that won't be an issue with a 4 post lift since the ramps don't take you up very high.
I like the simplicity of the 2 post with nothing in the way when you want to work on the cars. I will be doing brake and tire swaps often. Changing street tires out for track tires/brakes if nothing else.
I don't need storage space so that aspect of a 4 post is wasted on me. Being able to reposition the lift might be nice to do special things like the power wash the underneath, but let's get real, how often would that happen?
I don't like the aspect of having to lift my car and then having to jack my car to work on it with the 4 post. But it would be nice to be able to do alignments myself.
It seems that doing ****** swaps would be easier on a 2 post.
I WANT IT ALL!!! I want the perfect world 2 & 4 post lift combo.
bigdav160
Well-known member
Two post Rotary in my garage 
I wouldn't even consider a four post. I've used both extensively and find the 2-post much more versatile. Contrary to the above post alignments are possible.
However, a FWD transmission on a 4-post is not
I wouldn't even consider a four post. I've used both extensively and find the 2-post much more versatile. Contrary to the above post alignments are possible.
However, a FWD transmission on a 4-post is not
sneezer41
Well-known member
A four post also takes up more real estate, you really need to block out that spot. While I would be hesitant to use a 2 post for very long term storage for the bushing issue, I plan on keeping a car on mine at almost all times.
It really does depend on if your primary use is work or storage. If you work on the car, a 2 post is really better, after all, there are so many things that you do that at least on tire is coming off.
I think the ratings probably are sears ratings, if you plan on routinely being at 80 percent of a 10k, spend on the larger. If you are only planning on having the capacity for your brother in laws dually, don't waste your money on a heavy lift for your karman ghia.
It really does depend on if your primary use is work or storage. If you work on the car, a 2 post is really better, after all, there are so many things that you do that at least on tire is coming off.
I think the ratings probably are sears ratings, if you plan on routinely being at 80 percent of a 10k, spend on the larger. If you are only planning on having the capacity for your brother in laws dually, don't waste your money on a heavy lift for your karman ghia.
I typed this up for another thread on another board that is mostly Porsche and mostly car guys not garage nuts like us. Please remember that this is only my opinion. Nomex driving suit is on and helmet visor is down. I have made a set of drive on bridged that let me use my 2 post as a drive on and store wheels up 4 post. Best of both.
" Caution! Opinion to follow. Read at our own risk.
Good points to a 2 post lift.
By far the best for working on cars. No question, just look at pro shops.
Takes up less space in your garage.
Most lift the car higher and have more clearance under then at full hight.
You can use the arms to lift motors up and out or up and onto a stand. You can also lift stuff from the backs of pickup trucks. This is is a no no off label use but sure is handy.
Bad points to a 2 post lift.
Suspension extended car storage.*
You have to set the arms under the car in the right places for car storage.
Concrete requirements are often higher than for a four post.
Good points to a four post lift.
Drive on car storage with car sitting on wheels.
Some do not require any bolting to floor and can even be moved around.
Bad points to a four post lift.
Harder to work on cars. Trolly jacks or not the deck seems to be in the way every time you turn around.
Takes up a lot of space car on it on it or not.
Less free clearance under most them at full hight. The deck takes up space in use or not.
Some random notes from observations in home and dealership use.
Get a certified lift. Period. Next item.
99.9% of lift accidents are due to user error not a cheap lift or poor install. This means you are overall just about as likely to get bugsplatted under a Rotary or Mohawk as one from Harbor Fright. Its up to you.
Super thick concrete or piers under the posts of a 2 post are only overkill. The fasteners are the weak point and fastener retention is key not slab thickness when over the manufactures recommendations. If the lift maker recommends 4 inches of 3000 PSI concrete you will be good to go if you follow the rules. Check for what is called for and don't cheat. 6 inches of 3000 PSI concrete is not better than 4 inches of 4000 PSI. Install correctly on rated slab and have fun. There is a large safety factor built into the recommendations. Keep crack control joints away from the lift bolt points.
Shopping tips, in no order. Specifications change all the time so check the specs this prattle might be dated and is incomplete generalizations only.
Power. Look at the power requirements. 120 volt units are often very slow to cycle to full hight. Smaller motor = smaller pump. This might not be a big deal to most. Even at 120 volt a lift still might require a dedicated line to be run. Go with 220 volt if you can.
Safety locks. Look at the locking and release methods used. Some four post lifts use air pressure to unlock the releases. No compressor or air pressure = No mova da car but the good point is you can stand in one place and lower your car. Some make you wander all around the lift unlocking at each post. On a 4 post this is a royal pain. A small point of use compressor is all you need if you don't have compressed air already.
Some 2 post lifts have a release that is right next to the hydraulic release. This is preferred IMO. Some such as my Bend-Pac use a release on each post that has to be pulled before the lift can be lowered. Not a big deal on a 2 post but one more step to forget now and then.
Stroke. Look at the pad hight at full down and full up. Some lifts have tall min pad heights and short full heights. Short lifts **** and so does having to jack your sports car up to get it on the lift. For some reason some Rotary lifts have short full hight. Bend-Pac is better than most at this. My Bend-Pac runs from 4" pad hight to 6' 6" pad hight. You can walk under the arms without clipping your head if you are 6'2" This is one of the primary reasons I got the one I did.
Clear floor or clear overhead. All 2 and 4 post lifts use some method for the rams to stay synchronized. Some, Mohawk is an example, use a hydraulic system to do this and all that crosses over is a hose or steel line that can be run on or inside the ceiling. Most use cables and pulleys that counter pull on each ram keeping them even. How this is done on a four post is not too important as they don't get in the way but there are things to consider with the 2 post lifts. The cables can run overhead or under a metal plate on the floor. Overhead leaves the floor clear but increases the ceiling hight requirements quite a bit. Overhead also sets a max vehicle hight for full lift extension. With a floor plate your ceiling it the max hight. (Unless a buddy runs his 914 with the front trunk lid propped open then the max hight can be exceeded by simply protruding through the drywall. Don't ask...) A tall truck with a ladder rack might mean the lift cannot be run to full high and you are now doing a Quasimoto imitation. Cables under a floor plate means you have a bump to drive over and roll oil catch tanks and ****** jacks and the like over. A small irritation at times including when you sweep up but not insurmountable.
Commercial day in and day out shop? Tall overhead or in-ground is the way to go. Home shop with less than 14 feet ceilings a floor plate system might be a better option.
Four" brands" that make up a large portion of lifts in home use and only one persons opinion.
No name or re-badged imports. Run. In the future you might/will have a hard time getting parts or service. Many US lift companies are getting all or parts of lifts made off shore to their specs.
Bend-Pac. OK fit and finish. Most are certified, good bang for the buck. Home shop pick if money is better spent on the car.
Rotary. My pick for a service shop under money making use. Check total heights some are too short.
Mohawk. Big and massive overkill in a home shop. No overhead bar or floor plate is very nice. If you got the bucks they are well made and little bad can be said about them. As with some of the Rotary's check the min and max before purchase.a properly used import is safer than a ham fisted knuckle drager with a Mohawk.
At work I have 150 lifts to deal with. Some Rotary in ground, some Challenger in ground, some Rotary 2 post and four 4 post alignment rack type lifts. The Rotary's are the least problematic overall and the new method in ground Rotary's are bulletproof.
At home I have the above mentioned Bend-Pac 2 post floor plate type in a shop with a 10 foot 6 ceiling. 12 foot would be better but I can run the lift to the stops with a 911, 912 or 944 on it.
My home shop is 30' deep and I was able to move my lift back a bit to clear a standard door. I planed on a loft for bulky little used stuff like 60 inch TV sets over the door so built the door tracks to run under the loft. Some standard doors can be reworked so the door track follows the ceiling line."
" Caution! Opinion to follow. Read at our own risk.
Good points to a 2 post lift.
By far the best for working on cars. No question, just look at pro shops.
Takes up less space in your garage.
Most lift the car higher and have more clearance under then at full hight.
You can use the arms to lift motors up and out or up and onto a stand. You can also lift stuff from the backs of pickup trucks. This is is a no no off label use but sure is handy.
Bad points to a 2 post lift.
Suspension extended car storage.*
You have to set the arms under the car in the right places for car storage.
Concrete requirements are often higher than for a four post.
Good points to a four post lift.
Drive on car storage with car sitting on wheels.
Some do not require any bolting to floor and can even be moved around.
Bad points to a four post lift.
Harder to work on cars. Trolly jacks or not the deck seems to be in the way every time you turn around.
Takes up a lot of space car on it on it or not.
Less free clearance under most them at full hight. The deck takes up space in use or not.
Some random notes from observations in home and dealership use.
Get a certified lift. Period. Next item.
99.9% of lift accidents are due to user error not a cheap lift or poor install. This means you are overall just about as likely to get bugsplatted under a Rotary or Mohawk as one from Harbor Fright. Its up to you.
Super thick concrete or piers under the posts of a 2 post are only overkill. The fasteners are the weak point and fastener retention is key not slab thickness when over the manufactures recommendations. If the lift maker recommends 4 inches of 3000 PSI concrete you will be good to go if you follow the rules. Check for what is called for and don't cheat. 6 inches of 3000 PSI concrete is not better than 4 inches of 4000 PSI. Install correctly on rated slab and have fun. There is a large safety factor built into the recommendations. Keep crack control joints away from the lift bolt points.
Shopping tips, in no order. Specifications change all the time so check the specs this prattle might be dated and is incomplete generalizations only.
Power. Look at the power requirements. 120 volt units are often very slow to cycle to full hight. Smaller motor = smaller pump. This might not be a big deal to most. Even at 120 volt a lift still might require a dedicated line to be run. Go with 220 volt if you can.
Safety locks. Look at the locking and release methods used. Some four post lifts use air pressure to unlock the releases. No compressor or air pressure = No mova da car but the good point is you can stand in one place and lower your car. Some make you wander all around the lift unlocking at each post. On a 4 post this is a royal pain. A small point of use compressor is all you need if you don't have compressed air already.
Some 2 post lifts have a release that is right next to the hydraulic release. This is preferred IMO. Some such as my Bend-Pac use a release on each post that has to be pulled before the lift can be lowered. Not a big deal on a 2 post but one more step to forget now and then.
Stroke. Look at the pad hight at full down and full up. Some lifts have tall min pad heights and short full heights. Short lifts **** and so does having to jack your sports car up to get it on the lift. For some reason some Rotary lifts have short full hight. Bend-Pac is better than most at this. My Bend-Pac runs from 4" pad hight to 6' 6" pad hight. You can walk under the arms without clipping your head if you are 6'2" This is one of the primary reasons I got the one I did.
Clear floor or clear overhead. All 2 and 4 post lifts use some method for the rams to stay synchronized. Some, Mohawk is an example, use a hydraulic system to do this and all that crosses over is a hose or steel line that can be run on or inside the ceiling. Most use cables and pulleys that counter pull on each ram keeping them even. How this is done on a four post is not too important as they don't get in the way but there are things to consider with the 2 post lifts. The cables can run overhead or under a metal plate on the floor. Overhead leaves the floor clear but increases the ceiling hight requirements quite a bit. Overhead also sets a max vehicle hight for full lift extension. With a floor plate your ceiling it the max hight. (Unless a buddy runs his 914 with the front trunk lid propped open then the max hight can be exceeded by simply protruding through the drywall. Don't ask...) A tall truck with a ladder rack might mean the lift cannot be run to full high and you are now doing a Quasimoto imitation. Cables under a floor plate means you have a bump to drive over and roll oil catch tanks and ****** jacks and the like over. A small irritation at times including when you sweep up but not insurmountable.
Commercial day in and day out shop? Tall overhead or in-ground is the way to go. Home shop with less than 14 feet ceilings a floor plate system might be a better option.
Four" brands" that make up a large portion of lifts in home use and only one persons opinion.
No name or re-badged imports. Run. In the future you might/will have a hard time getting parts or service. Many US lift companies are getting all or parts of lifts made off shore to their specs.
Bend-Pac. OK fit and finish. Most are certified, good bang for the buck. Home shop pick if money is better spent on the car.
Rotary. My pick for a service shop under money making use. Check total heights some are too short.
Mohawk. Big and massive overkill in a home shop. No overhead bar or floor plate is very nice. If you got the bucks they are well made and little bad can be said about them. As with some of the Rotary's check the min and max before purchase.a properly used import is safer than a ham fisted knuckle drager with a Mohawk.
At work I have 150 lifts to deal with. Some Rotary in ground, some Challenger in ground, some Rotary 2 post and four 4 post alignment rack type lifts. The Rotary's are the least problematic overall and the new method in ground Rotary's are bulletproof.
At home I have the above mentioned Bend-Pac 2 post floor plate type in a shop with a 10 foot 6 ceiling. 12 foot would be better but I can run the lift to the stops with a 911, 912 or 944 on it.
My home shop is 30' deep and I was able to move my lift back a bit to clear a standard door. I planed on a loft for bulky little used stuff like 60 inch TV sets over the door so built the door tracks to run under the loft. Some standard doors can be reworked so the door track follows the ceiling line."
Last edited:
"I do alignments on my 4 post, something I can't do on a 2 post. The needs of a professional shop are different than a home owner. If shops do alignments they have alignment racks for the job, homeowners generally don't. But with some I extra equipment I can do very accurate alignments on my rack."
The same can be said of a 2 post. Get or make a set of alinement tables.
"Like I said before, add jacks to a 4-post and it can do anything a 2-post can do, but not the other way around. I have never had a situation where the ramps or the jacks got in my way enough that I couldn't do the job I needed to do." What is "enough" to keep you from doing a job compared to just frustration or a nuisance? The decks are in the way all the time. You have to duck in and out every time you go under the car. Try and drop a motor out the bottom of a modern European car.
Get the lift that you like after considering the pros and cons to each. Nether is right or wrong and ether is a lot better than lying on your back
.The controversy of two-post verses four-post lifts continues, along with the other types of lifts. And has been debated countless times in different threads on Garage Journal. Kind of like the movie Ground Hog Day.... All over again! There should be a separate section for lifts with a sticky covering the two verses four debate...
I don’t feel that the majority of members here claim a two-post is totally superior. Though the benefits and where one excels over the other have been well documented. That being said I’d like to add my opinion,, again. I own five Stinger four-post lifts, one Mohawk 10,000 capacity System I two-post lift, and soon I’ll be installing a Bendpak 10,000 two-post lift. They are all used in my retirement complex for my personal use and not for any kind of business. For home use, and having the option of only one lift, I would recommend owning a four-post lift. Besides being better suited for storage of cars when not in use. Combined with a sliding jack tray or rolling bridge jack you can do most every repair on a car. Though dropping and engine on a front wheel drive car is better accomplished on a two-post lift. The only exception being someone that planned on using it for car repair only, then definitely a two-post...
I have to add, since I purchased my two-post lift, all my mechanical work is done on it. And my four-post lifts are only used for storing my antique cars. You’ll be amazed how you ever got along without a lift in your life.. Besides being a major time saver,, the older one gets, the more you’ll appreciate saving the up’s and down’s!
I don’t feel that the majority of members here claim a two-post is totally superior. Though the benefits and where one excels over the other have been well documented. That being said I’d like to add my opinion,, again. I own five Stinger four-post lifts, one Mohawk 10,000 capacity System I two-post lift, and soon I’ll be installing a Bendpak 10,000 two-post lift. They are all used in my retirement complex for my personal use and not for any kind of business. For home use, and having the option of only one lift, I would recommend owning a four-post lift. Besides being better suited for storage of cars when not in use. Combined with a sliding jack tray or rolling bridge jack you can do most every repair on a car. Though dropping and engine on a front wheel drive car is better accomplished on a two-post lift. The only exception being someone that planned on using it for car repair only, then definitely a two-post...
I have to add, since I purchased my two-post lift, all my mechanical work is done on it. And my four-post lifts are only used for storing my antique cars. You’ll be amazed how you ever got along without a lift in your life.. Besides being a major time saver,, the older one gets, the more you’ll appreciate saving the up’s and down’s!
Most shops have several 2 and 4 post lifts. I always preferred the two post lifts because they take up less floor space and have more room underneath the car. It is hard (not impossible) to replace brake/ fuel lines, drop gas tanks, pull radiators if the 4 post has the front support bar, with a 4 post you also need something to lift the car off the lift to change tires, where as a 2 post once you lift it up off the ground you don't have to worry about stands or jacks.
Downside to a two post is if you are working on an old unibody car you take the chance of bending the body due to age of the metal, especially if you open the doors, you may not be able to close them. Also with a two post lift you have to think about the balance points and make sure the arm is underneath something secure, and is not going to smash the rocker panels, fuel lines etc. Caution on long wheel based vehicles you may have to put a support stand to keep the vehicle from rocking.
Whatever you feel that suits you best, make sure you get a quality made lift, especially lifting pickups. Just because they say it's rated to 10,000lbs does not mean it will do it safely. Try lifting two tons with flea market jack and lifting two tons with an OTC or lincoln jack. The first jack will be lucky to lift half the weight and the other jacks will probably lift more than their weight without a problem. Just remember you will be the one working underneath the lift and if you buy a quality one it will last you a lifetime.
PS- Some of the portable 4 post lifts are handy if you are working in a small garage or if you want to roll it outside for cleaning the underside of the car.
Downside to a two post is if you are working on an old unibody car you take the chance of bending the body due to age of the metal, especially if you open the doors, you may not be able to close them. Also with a two post lift you have to think about the balance points and make sure the arm is underneath something secure, and is not going to smash the rocker panels, fuel lines etc. Caution on long wheel based vehicles you may have to put a support stand to keep the vehicle from rocking.
Whatever you feel that suits you best, make sure you get a quality made lift, especially lifting pickups. Just because they say it's rated to 10,000lbs does not mean it will do it safely. Try lifting two tons with flea market jack and lifting two tons with an OTC or lincoln jack. The first jack will be lucky to lift half the weight and the other jacks will probably lift more than their weight without a problem. Just remember you will be the one working underneath the lift and if you buy a quality one it will last you a lifetime.
PS- Some of the portable 4 post lifts are handy if you are working in a small garage or if you want to roll it outside for cleaning the underside of the car.
Mike of the North
Well-known member
OK guys, now you have to help me figure out a way to convince my wife that I need one of each.
Right now I am leaning toward a Mohawk with wheel adapters so I can pickup my lawn mower.
Right now I am leaning toward a Mohawk with wheel adapters so I can pickup my lawn mower.
6768rogues
Banned
I have a two post symmetrical lift. I like it because for some operations I drive into it, and for some I back into it. It has a 9000 lb. rating but the literature says it was tested to 27,000 lbs. I would not overload it and I expected that it would have a 2x or 3x margin of safety. I like it, my friends like it, and I wish I could get them to take their used oil home with them. I keep a barrel and when it is full a guy with a waste oil burner comes over and pumps it out.
I suggest that you start by getting brownie points from your Wife.… Get her favorite candy and flowers for Valentine’s Day. Help her around the house more. Show her how you appreciate her..
You may rethink the wheel adapters from Mohawk,,, they are rather pricy!
JOHNMAN
Well-known member
I have a Rotary 7,000# 2-post Asymmetric lift. I've had it in my garage for about 12 years now and have never had any issues with it. It is rock solid even with a Full Size Van or a Suburban on it. When the building was built, the lift was planned so the floor is extra thick and heavily reinforced.
I do alignments with my 2-post lift (not as convenient as with a 4-post lift (or alignment rack)). I have (4) movable stands each outfitted with swivel tables on top to do this.
I do a lot of work on air cooled cars in which the engines are removed from underneath. With a 4-post lift, this would not be practical. I also do a lot of brake work (race cars) and will even do muffler/exhaust work. Most of these jobs require easy access to the belly of the vehicle which can be obstructed with the ramps on a 4-poster.
When building the shop, I contacted one of my old bosses (a shop owner and asked his opinion and he suggested the 2-post asymmetrical lift as a good choice for the work and types of cars that I work on).
I have not encountered a job yet that my 4-post lift can not do. (I overcame my alignment issues with (4) alignment stands.)
One thing that I would change if I had a do-over button is to locate the lift 1 foot (or so) further away from the end wall to make a little more room at the front of the vehicle.
I do alignments with my 2-post lift (not as convenient as with a 4-post lift (or alignment rack)). I have (4) movable stands each outfitted with swivel tables on top to do this.
I do a lot of work on air cooled cars in which the engines are removed from underneath. With a 4-post lift, this would not be practical. I also do a lot of brake work (race cars) and will even do muffler/exhaust work. Most of these jobs require easy access to the belly of the vehicle which can be obstructed with the ramps on a 4-poster.
When building the shop, I contacted one of my old bosses (a shop owner and asked his opinion and he suggested the 2-post asymmetrical lift as a good choice for the work and types of cars that I work on).
I have not encountered a job yet that my 4-post lift can not do. (I overcame my alignment issues with (4) alignment stands.)
One thing that I would change if I had a do-over button is to locate the lift 1 foot (or so) further away from the end wall to make a little more room at the front of the vehicle.
I'll be leaning more toward a 2 post because it will be used to work on vehicles & not for storage. Types of work will be brakes, tire rotations, exhaust replacement, brake & fuel line replacement, suspension work, etc. The space I use to work on cars is in the same area where my woodworking shop is so space is also an issue. There is a shop in town that does alignment work very reasonable so that aspect is covered. Vehicles include 3 FWD cars & an 84 Dodge Ram RWD pickup for now. I looked at Mohawks site & how they were made & the Series 1 10,000lb model looks like it would do anything I will ever have & I don't know too many people with dually PU's but it would probably do them too.
If your a car guy a lift is a must. I bought a used 2 post 9000# Challenger from a closed Sam's club. I prefer a 2 post because I change FWD clutches and do brake/suspenion work more than I need an alignment. I also was tired of raising the car with a jack to work on brakes/tires. Eventally I will get a 4 post as well but I'm glad I started with a 2 post. I would get a clear floor model... I like the added support at the top of the columns for piece of mind.
How about a 2 post that thinks it is a 4 post?
Grade 8 inch and a quarter bolts, something like 150,000 psi each so there is over a 200 to one safety ratio in the bolts. I bet I could lift my entire shop, brick, slab and all with the 4 of them. Not subject to extended high or low frequency vibration so no chance of them backing off. Bolts are set and shouldered in the rectangular 1/8 ERW box tubing and welded top and bottom. Also welded to the 1/4 inch angle full width reinforcement on the bolt head as well as the 1/4 inch top plate. The top plate and angle iron are welded to each other as well. The weak point overall is right where the 1.75 X1.20 wall EWT meet the end plates. The bolts point up so you can set the adaptors in place and drop lift onto them even if a car is on the lift. Drop car wheels into adaptors on floor. Pull arms from under car raise lift a little and adjust arms and lower them onto the adaptor bolts. Spin the nuts down and lift car on adaptors. Removal and switching back to body lift is reverse and no need to move the car at all if it is immobile. This is not a build to design it is build from what was laying around in the shop except the nuts and bolts. EWT was left over from a mixed tubing batch I purchased. EWT box was from a trailer build. Angle iron was from the frame that Bend-Pac used to ship my two post lift.
Not shown. Ease of driving ramps made from 2X8 that has notches for the tubes. Roll up and over first adaptor. Hit bump on second adaptor ramp and lift car. Remove small ramps from floor. Adaptors are easy for one man to carry around and you can store them in a corner or on a wall. No, they are not tested but I am not lifting M1A1 tanks ether.
Grade 8 inch and a quarter bolts, something like 150,000 psi each so there is over a 200 to one safety ratio in the bolts. I bet I could lift my entire shop, brick, slab and all with the 4 of them. Not subject to extended high or low frequency vibration so no chance of them backing off. Bolts are set and shouldered in the rectangular 1/8 ERW box tubing and welded top and bottom. Also welded to the 1/4 inch angle full width reinforcement on the bolt head as well as the 1/4 inch top plate. The top plate and angle iron are welded to each other as well. The weak point overall is right where the 1.75 X1.20 wall EWT meet the end plates. The bolts point up so you can set the adaptors in place and drop lift onto them even if a car is on the lift. Drop car wheels into adaptors on floor. Pull arms from under car raise lift a little and adjust arms and lower them onto the adaptor bolts. Spin the nuts down and lift car on adaptors. Removal and switching back to body lift is reverse and no need to move the car at all if it is immobile. This is not a build to design it is build from what was laying around in the shop except the nuts and bolts. EWT was left over from a mixed tubing batch I purchased. EWT box was from a trailer build. Angle iron was from the frame that Bend-Pac used to ship my two post lift.
Not shown. Ease of driving ramps made from 2X8 that has notches for the tubes. Roll up and over first adaptor. Hit bump on second adaptor ramp and lift car. Remove small ramps from floor. Adaptors are easy for one man to carry around and you can store them in a corner or on a wall. No, they are not tested but I am not lifting M1A1 tanks ether.
Attachments
I bought a used two post versimetric by challenger. 9000 pound rating. The price was good at 900.00 dollars. Now all I need to do is build a shop to set the lift in. My shop is sitting in my field on three pallets (metal shop). I need a building permit from the idiots at the county to put it up. I worked as a mechanic all my life and I can attest to the value of a car lift.
walt
walt
russlaferrera
Well-known member
Visegrip, that is some fine craftsmanship, from design, welding to the finished product AAA+
Thanx vicegrip.
Any everyone I asked said it couldn't be done. It would collapse with only 2 posts, not safe, etc., etc.
One of the lift manufacturers has a speed lift option which is really just a slide on piece that allows you to drive on/over a long center "bar" kind alike a ramp that goes long ways between the front and rear wheels. You use this as the lift point instead of positioning arms.
Any everyone I asked said it couldn't be done. It would collapse with only 2 posts, not safe, etc., etc.
One of the lift manufacturers has a speed lift option which is really just a slide on piece that allows you to drive on/over a long center "bar" kind alike a ramp that goes long ways between the front and rear wheels. You use this as the lift point instead of positioning arms.
PxTx
Well-known member
We've built ramps for some 2 posts. They can be nice, but vehicle loading is kinda specific for the vehicles, and there is a liability of the end user loading a car (weight distribution) not intended for a partucular ramp design.
sneezer41
Well-known member
That is just awesome.
JB740i
Well-known member
There aren't any stairs going to that door?
jerkyboy
Well-known member
What are your thoughts on the scissor lift, what is its lift rating, and how high does it go?