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2 Post lift -radical modification

tonycastec

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Jan 9, 2012
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281
Location
Los Angeles
I need to modify my 2 post lift to fit shorter but wide cars. I selected the lift primarily for use with pickups. It is an Atlas ATPK-PV15PX.Very similar to most tall+wide ,symmetrical 2 post lifts. The specs are here:
https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-PV-15P
It works great for trucks and even for narrow or long cars .
For wider cars,the 2 stage arms are about 4 inches too long.
So the obvious modification is to shorten all 4 of the outer and inner arms by 4 inches.
Anybody done anything similar to this ?

A swb truck is only 7 inches wider but is 30" longer so there is much more space to finagle the lift arms.
At the time I bought the lift there wasn't a 3 stage arm option available for symmetric 2 post lifts.
Thanks for any constructive thoughts.
 
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TTMotorsports

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Lucerne Valley, CA
I just made some wood supports that go onto my arms with thick rubber on top and lift by middle of arms when lifting wider cars. Works great and still have all the range needed for long trucks.
 

pattenp

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Jun 4, 2008
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Location
Virginia - USA
Are you trying to use only the jack points on the vehicle to lift? On some vehicles I can't use the body jack points because the lift arms are too long and have to extend the arms under to the frame to get a lift point.
 
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tonycastec

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Jan 9, 2012
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Location
Los Angeles
I'm using the lift points .On small unibody cars there is very little alternative space.
The problem is both of the 2 stages of the arms are too long.
You might ask , why did I locate the columns at 'only' 109" drive thru ? Because this is determined by the overhead bracing. Oh, I miss my Mohawk - both columns were independent so they could be bolted down wherever you wanted. Just one hydraulic line connected the 2 column overhead & no cables.
Unfortunately the Wheel Engaging Adapters that I bought for the monster Mohawk require modification to work on the Atlas.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187668
 
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aka Larry

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May 2, 2012
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Location
Eastern, NC
My Atlas lift came with the these than sit on top of the arms to do what I'm thinking you are describing.

XH_9KOH_77_78-02.jpg
 
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tonycastec

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Jan 9, 2012
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281
Location
Los Angeles
Thank you.
Here is a link:
https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Sliding-Adapters
If they fitted the first stage of the arm they might work.But they are only 4" wide so are sized for the smaller second stage that telescopes inside the 1st.The first stage arms are 4-3/4" wide.I'll ask Greg Smith Equipment and post their response here - I found Josh @ GSE to be very helpful when I was buying the lift .
 
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tonycastec

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Jan 9, 2012
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281
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Los Angeles
Atlas may have read this Post and realized there was an opportunity to improve their product. Several Atlas 2Post lifts now have standard 3 stage front arms
It seems any lift with a part number including "L" as in PVL10 has 3 stage front arms and 2 stage rear arms.
 

firebirdparts

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Jun 8, 2016
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Location
Kingsport, TN
I'm way too lazy and selfish to cut the arms off. I just add on shorty support points using wood. 3 stage arms would be really cool, though.
 
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tonycastec

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Jan 9, 2012
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Los Angeles
It would be really smart of Atlas/Greg Smith Equipment to sell the 3 stage alternative arms to those of us who have the old and limited 2 stage arms.
 

wtrjock

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Jun 7, 2011
Messages
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I am in the same boat with you. I just installed a PV15PX with symmetrical arms and the arms are too long to fit under my Audi. I emailed Jeff and James at Greg Smith and they both concur that the newer 2 stage and 3 stage arms will not fit the older lifts. What solution did you end up with?
 

aka Larry

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May 2, 2012
Messages
8,026
Location
Eastern, NC
I am in the same boat with you. I just installed a PV15PX with symmetrical arms and the arms are too long to fit under my Audi. I emailed Jeff and James at Greg Smith and they both concur that the newer 2 stage and 3 stage arms will not fit the older lifts. What solution did you end up with?

I sometimes have the same issue with my GSE lift so I use alternate lifting points. I can usually use the factory points on the rear (pinch welds), but up front I have to use to the K-member.
 
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