2 Post Lift Relocation in Garaqe

[NY98M3]

After placing and securing to the floor a Mohawk A-7 lift in my newly constructed garage, I found that when the car is on the lift, it doesn't leave me too much room to have a bench and work on the car. There is about 2ft between the bench and the front bumper of the car. There is about 6 ft in the back of the car to the door that I have no use for.

Not sure if its the greatest idea, but I would like to move the lift about 16" back further, which would give me more room in front of the car to have a bench and room to work.

My question is, there are 7 - 3/4" Wej-it anchor bolts that I would need to drive down into the concrete, then move the lift 16" and replace the Wej-it anchor bolts. The concrete is about 5" thick. I'm worried that the 7 - 3/4 holes would cause a weak spot and may compromise the strength of the concrete. I would fill them, but what should I use since the holes are only 3/4"

Any help or comments would be appreciated!

Thanks!

The blue tape on the car is where the forward arm should be...

 

[INTMD8]

I'm no engineer so this is just an opinion, but I would have no worries about moving it back.

If you feel it's too close however I would move it back more than 16".

 

[T_R]

I have no idea of the technical aspects of it. But I have worked in shops where lifts were replaced and the new anchor holes were within a foot or less of the old anchors. Nothing ever happened.

My guess is you would fill the holes with hydraulic cement or maybe some sort of 2 part epoxy.

 

[Shadowdog500]

Any way you could move the bench? It may be an easier solution.

You may want to call Mohawk tomorrow to ask this question.

Chris

 

[NY98M3]

Thanks for the replies guys!

Maybe Im under estimating the concrete strength. 16" back would be ideal. Is hydraulic cement or epoxy the best option for filling the holes and strengthening the concrete in the those areas? I feel the concrete may be weak because of the existing holes.

 

[HoosierMark]

What about a rolling bench that when the car is on the lift could be moved to the side. Minimal cost to try and if it does not work, you can always move the lift.

 

[[Anonymous]]

Not to completely hi-jack your thread, but how deep is your garage? How deep is your workbench you are placing in front of the car? What size/length car are you working on most of the time?

 

[wssix99]

Maybe Im under estimating the concrete strength.

The holes are really not significant. If they were, you'd see the pad fail right under where the lift is now. (That's where the greatest forces are.)

When you fill the old holes, you'll have steel and cement in there that will be just as strong as the surrounding slab. No worries at all.

Is hydraulic cement or epoxy the best option for filling the holes

Use some hydraulic cement. The regular anchoring cement you can get on the shelf from the Orange Satan will do just fine. Unlike regular concrete/cement, the anchoring cement will expand slightly as it cures and will seal the hols up very nicely. I just anchored some fence posts and got the pourable stuff. It self-leveled perfectly and left a really nice finish. (Be careful and work in small batches and quickly - the stuff sets up fast!)

 

[levimorris85]

Only thing that comes to my mind is the support. Most lifts are installed on much thicker concrete under the finished slab. If its moved back 16" will you still be on the thick area of the concrete support or will you be on just the minimal thickness garage floor?

 

[motofool33]

you could fill the old holes with all thread 3/4" and then cut a slot for a flat blade screw driver to tighten them.

alot of shops have multiple bolt patterns around the lift post.

 

[sands35]

BMW e36?

Front bumper can come off with a few screws and expanding plastic fasteners. Easy peasy!

 

[sublimate]

16" back would be ideal.

What if your next car is longer, are you going to move it again?
If you have 6' of space behind I'd move the lift back 3' to split the difference and give yourself more room for the future.

 

[wssix99]

Most lifts are installed on much thicker concrete under the finished slab.

This is not typical and if its true - it's because the concrete company/installer didn't read the lift instructions.

 

[Fastfish]

I have the same problem. Not really a problem when I have a full size pick up truck on the lift....
I use a roll around cart with a vise on it while working under cars-as a bench/tool holder. I have thought about a folding down work surface in front of the lift.

 

[Blown454ss]

I would move it the 16" you want and not worry about it. I've been in May shops where new lifts were installed where the old one was with new holes drilled