2 Post Lift spacing

[dak911]

For a 2 Post Lift...what is the absolute minimum distance the post should/can be from a wall? You do need to get between it and the wall to "swing" the arms.
I'm still trying to decide 2 or 4 post (movable)
And, still trying to figure how to adapt a 2 post to lift by the wheels...(there is a large discussion about this) Mostly on the order of making "adapters" like the kind of thing that a tow truck uses under the tires.
I'm thinking about an aluminum or steel "channel" that you could drive on lifted by the 2 post arms...this is for a small sports car 3000 #

 

[Bad00SS]

Its annoying if you cant get between the wall and the post. If your tool box is in the front left of the car and your doing a brake job on the left rear wheel and you want to grab a tool you now have to walk all the way around the back of the car and up the side and across the front and then all the way back again if your against a wall. gets annoying real fast. don't make that mistake. When I talked to Atlas about a lift last year there were requirements on how far from the wall because they don't want the concrete to crack near an edge. prolly around 12". I honestly forgot what they were but I'd say 24"-36" would be safe for most guys to walk behind the post. don't want to have to sqeeze past it.

Also if you ever pull a rear axle out on the lift it will hit the wall if your too close and your screwed. seen it happen to a member on here.

 

[Falcon67]

24" imho.

 

[CJseven]

24" imho.

Mine specs this as a minimum distance.

 

[Barrymaxx]

I did 18". Very happy with it. I can walk around the lift and can also pass tires between the post and the wall.

If you want to do axles on full size trucks you will need more space. I can do s10 and jeep axles I think but anything wider and the shaft will hit the wall before its out of the housing.

 

[onlyn8v]

So, Mohawk shop setup recommends 24" between two lifts. One could argue this is because they need to each be 12" away from one another

Bendpak XPR10 installation instructions, When in narrow configuration is 11ft in width (132") They then say 79 -7/8" from center of lift to nearest wall. so, that also leaves 14"

Hope this helps


https://mohawklifts.com/library/shop_layouts/System IA-10 12-18-2013 31 Shop Layout.pdf

https://www.bendpak.com/XPR-10-Series-Two-Post-Lift-Manual-5900951-BendPak.pdf

 

[dak911]

OK, so, if I can work it out looks like 18" would be good....

 

[Kevin54]

My 2 post is 2' from the wall

 

[TTMotorsports]

How far forward from roll up door do you guys set symmetrical 2 post lifts. So a crew cab long bed will fit?

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

 

[wssix99]

For a 2 Post Lift...what is the absolute minimum distance the post should/can be from a wall?

This is a function of the engineering/design of the lift and will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. You need to pick a lift and the answer will be in the install instructions.

 

[fiataccompli]

I am in the building process and will have basically what amounts to 30’ x 30’ for 3 “lanes” with 20’x8’ offsets (set up for small cars but want to be able to accommodate a lot of stuff). I have been playing with different arrangements to use that space for a 2 & a 4 post lift, so the minimum space (specs) AND practical space around a 2 post are both interesting to me. At the moment I am imagining lifts on the two “outer” lanes that sort of encroach on the center lane.

 

[pbon]

I had a 2 post about 10” off one wall. You want at least 6” for structural integrity of the slab. A little more so you could squeeze behind it would be nice. On the other side you want walk around clearance. With minimal on one side you can always back in should you need to work on the side of the car that wound normally be next to the wall.

 

[dak911]

Thanks for the info guys, still trying to figure a layout....and leaning to a 4 post....

 

[like2wheel]

I know a 2 post in a shop that is 16" from the wall, & the guy that works on it 8 hrs each day has no complaints.

 

[pbon]

I changed from a 2 post to 4 post when I moved. I prefer 2 post for working on cars. 4 post costs more and is better for storage and not as good for working on cars, but you can do just about any job on a 4 post — bridge jacks help with some jobs.

 

[KillNThrill24]

Also if you ever pull a rear axle out on the lift it will hit the wall if your too close and your screwed. seen it happen to a member on here.

This x1000. Seriously this is something you want to consider. Last thing you want to do is have to replace an axle or beating, and pop the axle out of the differential and hit the wall.

Sent from my Note 9 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[youztheclue]

I believe they tell you the minimum floor space each post need to keep from cracking the ground up. This and then maybe add a foot or two and you should be able to get past the lift even with a big gut.

 

[danielbuck]

you probably wouldn't want to get TOO close to the edge of the slab

 

[brownbagg]

mine is 12 inches from wall and im to fat to squeege through there

 

[protegeV]

mine is 12 inches from wall and im to fat to squeege through there

That made me lol.


Mine about 2' from the wall.

 

[Diesel Dan]

Here is Kevin54s lift at its first location.
Think the whole bay was only 13' wide. Not ideal but what I had to work with.

 

[coljar]

I'm about 18" off the one wall, which works out fine for me. If I'm going to be pulling an axle on a full size truck, which is rare these days, I'll use my in-ground hoist in my old garage next door, which has tons of room.

 

[CraigStu]

18" would be my absolute min and I'd like 2+ ft. When I worked as a line tech we did a lot of front to rear tire rotation. My next bay tech buddy and I always helped each other-he grabs a front and I grab a rear and we walk to the other end. The heavier the tire the less you want to put it down, roll it, and pick it back up again so we usually carried them at chest height. The first time I happened to bounce that tire off the lift post and into my jaw was no fun. Our lifts were 2 ft apart but there was a larger gap on the other sides. I actually walked all around the car from then on to avoid going through that 2 ft gap.
2 vs 4 post? If you will be working on the cars forget a 4 post. Also, there is absolutely nothing wrong w/ storing a car on a 2 post lift w/ the suspension hanging.

 

[dave*99]

The OP asked for the absolute minimum - so that would be whatever the manufacturer states - to protect the concrete from cracking. That's usually about 6".
My Rotary 2 post asymmetric lift is about 12" from the stem wall. Since the stud wall is not as thick as the stem wall the lift post is about 16" from the stud wall, I can walk through space easily.

As for pulling a truck axle, I'm fortunate that there is a window in line with the rear axle. If I ever have an issue I can open the window.

If I had enough garage to accommodate 24" between the post and wall, I'd do that. But I suppose if the OP had that much space he would not ask about the absolute minimum distance.

 

[jumbo61]

And, still trying to figure how to adapt a 2 post to lift by the wheels...(there is a large discussion about this) Mostly on the order of making "adapters" like the kind of thing that a tow truck uses under the tires.
I'm thinking about an aluminum or steel "channel" that you could drive on lifted by the 2 post arms...this is for a small sports car 3000 #

I did it with basically a 2x2 tube framework and 2x5 (1/4" wall) ends that are attached to the lift arms with 1" grade 8 bolts. Tires rest on round tubes that are free to slide. I use it for winter storage of my Model A coupe over another hobby car. Had to make temporary rear lift arms because it's an asymmetrical lift. This is the 2nd winter using it.

 

[sanddan]

I did it with basically a 2x2 tube framework and 2x5 (1/4" wall) ends that are attached to the lift arms with 1" grade 8 bolts. Tires rest on round tubes that are free to slide. I use it for winter storage of my Model A coupe over another hobby car. Had to make temporary rear lift arms because it's an asymmetrical lift. This is the 2nd winter using it.

I did something that looks very much like this for servicing my lawn tractor. It was the only way I could lift it using the 2 post lift. I would lean to making separate "forks" for each lift arm so it could be used for vehicles with different wheelbases. I would just "derate" the lift when using them, only for the lighter ones. Even at 50% derate this would be ok for cars weighing up to 5000 lbs.

 

[fiataccompli]

Here is Kevin54s lift at its first location.
Think the whole bay was only 13' wide. Not ideal but what I had to work with.

So, for scaling purposes, how wide is the lift w/in the 13' space?

I'm trying to maintain as close to a 10' "lane" in my space and if i'm already 1-2' from the wall, that probably puts me 2-3' into the next lane...

I know a few folks who swear by doing automotive work on their 4 post lifts (with trolley jacks). I had a scissor/alignment type lift w/ trolley jacks for a long time & used it for all sorts of stuff, but that experience has also led me to want a 2 post this time around. I will say that for fitting exhaust & other work that may need to be done w/ normal loading on the suspension a ramp type lift (scissor/4 post) is nice.

 

[Diesel Dan]

So, for scaling purposes, how wide is the lift w/in the 13' space?

Here is a link to the lift, was a 9000FP model.
Worth lifts
I'll have to look through some older pics of when I built it and may have been 15' wall-wall.