I finally pulled the trigger on a lift and went with the atlas pv-9 wide. I just finished installing it and put the jeep and I am a little concerned. The jeep wobbles a little to much for my liking when pushing on the front or back. On top of that, the one cylinder will not stop leaking out of the bleeding screw... not sure what to do with that.
2 post lift
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Forever Fixin
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I agree with slice. Wrong arm placement if the pic is correct. Vehicle needs to be pulled forward a bit. Spread those arms out. Wider base makes it more stable. So as close as you can get to the wheels on the frame. Lift it a foot. Shake it at both the front and rear bumpers and reassess. What year is the vehicle. I have the lift guide and would be willing to take a look and see if it's in my guide for recommended lift points. I wonder if Greg smith doesn't come with a lift guide cause they aren't ALI certified? Just a thought.
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mustang is doing the same thing.
i did move the 2005 Jeep grand cherokee forward a bit and spread the arms out as far as they would go but it still wobbles. it's been a while since i was around a lift and i am not sure how much movement i should expect...it seems like it is in the arms, the columns,are not moving.
i am suppose to be able to position the cars asymmetric or symmetrical...but something does not seem right. i got the wide version which i now found out is limiting how far forward the Jeep can be pulled ahead if the column...i thought the arms extended further. i am going to try the f150 and see what happens.
WhiffySpark
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Mustangs too far back. You don't want the front arms straight at least a slight forward angle. The more the better
And yeah they'll wobble
And yeah they'll wobble
WhiffySpark
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Idk about any videos I lifted a dozen cars a day
short4stuff
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That mustang is atleast a foot farther back than it should be.
put the mirrors almost a foot ahead of the posts.
Kick the front legs all the way forward.... then pull them back about 3", then drive the mustang so the foot will be under the lift point at the front of the car..
It will be alot more stable.
put the mirrors almost a foot ahead of the posts.
Kick the front legs all the way forward.... then pull them back about 3", then drive the mustang so the foot will be under the lift point at the front of the car..
It will be alot more stable.
WhiffySpark
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For a fwd drive car you're close. Rwd too far back
Jagmandave
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A general starting point is to center the steering wheel on the post, then adjust from there.
You should be able to buy a copy of the ALI guide.....I would definitely get one as a starting point.
You should be able to buy a copy of the ALI guide.....I would definitely get one as a starting point.
WhiffySpark
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Ali guide is kind of a waste. They don't tell you as much for positioning but rather lifting points. I've never used one
dlcwent
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Whiffy giving you good advise. Experience will let you know where to place the arms. And Jeeps are a short wheel base and seem to wobble more than others. I usually place the pads under the front and rear control/ trailing arms on A Jeep. Put a 1 ton on there and it'll scare the **** out of you.
yea i am definitely getting two screw jacks after seeing the f150 up there...i am now also thinking about reconfiguring the setup to the standard instead of the wide. i can barely hit the lift points on the truck...and that's with it farther back behind the post then it seems it should be.
rburke65
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I have a used 2post Mohawk and that's where stop the car.......steering wheel near the post. No pro here but it seems to work for me and seems stable. but I also bought 2 tall jack stands for insurance.
WhiffySpark
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For what it's worth I've never had a wide lift. I've picked up one ton dually on reg width. Just close mirrors, put it in neutral and push it in.
Why config is your 150?
scrappy610
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All good advice. For the mustang, I would pull it up more. Use the front arms and grab the front subframe in the rear grab the spot for the stock jack. Usually most vehicles on our two post lifts the lift is around the mid part of the door... just a little forward of where you are.
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WhiffySpark
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You may be able to do one on the lead spring perch and one on the front frame rail. Depending on your adapters.
Worst case pick it up on straight section of frame
WhiffySpark
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Why? It won't mean anything. It's more physics than anything
aka Larry
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I have an Atlas OK-9K and a Mustang also. Yours is definitely too far back. The front arm should be angled forward somewhat, not straight.
As for the ALI guide, I bought one and it's useless because it just tells you where the lift pads go, not where to best position for proper C of G.
As for it rocking, the length and weight of the vehicle has a lot to do with it, but you can expect a little movement. I put a friend's F250 on mine and due to the length and weight, I place a high-lift jack stand on each end, which makes it rock solid.
As for the ALI guide, I bought one and it's useless because it just tells you where the lift pads go, not where to best position for proper C of G.
As for it rocking, the length and weight of the vehicle has a lot to do with it, but you can expect a little movement. I put a friend's F250 on mine and due to the length and weight, I place a high-lift jack stand on each end, which makes it rock solid.
I line cars and trucks up based on drivers shoulder being even with the lift column .. Sorry don’t have a pic of a mustang as example. i always put a stand\support at the back of the truck just to be safe, but i don’t trust any stand if the truck or car is not positioned on the lift correctly in the first place.
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Is that a wide setup by any chance? I had to position the truck father back to get the front arms on the lift points...my trick actually has arrows pointing to the point on the frame rail. I really don't think this wide setup is okay to be using. Front arms are maxed out in these pics.
I did get the cylinder to stop leaking. ..it was a rubber o ring that was missing a third.
I did get the cylinder to stop leaking. ..it was a rubber o ring that was missing a third.
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short4stuff
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The jeep looks good in those pics. (weight dist looks good)
Now here is another silly question...does anyone have any movement in the columns? Specifically when dropping the vehicle onto the locks?
I really appreciate all the responses, this garage has been based around a lift and I hate thinking I made a bad decision on it.
I really appreciate all the responses, this garage has been based around a lift and I hate thinking I made a bad decision on it.
Out of curiosity hard are you "dropping" the vehicle onto the locks? are you lowering the vehicle at full speed onto the locks or easing it down slowly and still seeing movement?
What did you torque the baseplate nuts to?
I have a Atlas BP 8000, and when lifting I sometimes see a tiny bit of movement in the columns, the carriages have some play in them as well which is by design to allow proper load distribution and prevent binding. But they definitely don't "move" i am only lifting ~3300lbs on a 8000lb rated lift though.
One thing you can do is with no load on the lift use a long level and check the front and side plumb to make sure the columns are level, then with a car on the lift do the same thing, this will indicate if there is any pull in on the columns when under load... I try to run that test bi-monthly along with re-torquing all the bolts.
What did you torque the baseplate nuts to?
I have a Atlas BP 8000, and when lifting I sometimes see a tiny bit of movement in the columns, the carriages have some play in them as well which is by design to allow proper load distribution and prevent binding. But they definitely don't "move" i am only lifting ~3300lbs on a 8000lb rated lift though.
One thing you can do is with no load on the lift use a long level and check the front and side plumb to make sure the columns are level, then with a car on the lift do the same thing, this will indicate if there is any pull in on the columns when under load... I try to run that test bi-monthly along with re-torquing all the bolts.
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WhiffySpark
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Yeah it'll rock. That's normal
I think you may be better off setting it up for normal width
I think you may be better off setting it up for normal width
I will have to measure the width between the columns on mine; i think i opted for the wide install... as for movement\rock of the columns, mine don’t move at all. For the first month or two, it is recommended you re-torque the mount bolts at the base. Then once a year recheck them. Mine didn’t loosen up much, but i have read other posts that folks that had movement\rock that it was corrected or limited by re-torqueing.
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When I put my Bendpak 10K asy up, I checked some of our cars for CG using a floor jack. I would jack each one up a few times until it balanced on the floor jack, then put a piece of tape on the door. I wanted this tape to line up with the post ( or center of the lift plate ) so that the load was centered when lifted.
This worked great on the Tundra, Camry, Jeep, Eclipse, and Rav4. I now am used to loading them and no problems at all.
I use the lift for everything//// loading stuff in the truck bed, having a place to set for a beer...and last weekend, picking up the rear of my car trailer ( engine lift on the nose ) to rewire brakes and pack wheel bearings. It does it all!
This worked great on the Tundra, Camry, Jeep, Eclipse, and Rav4. I now am used to loading them and no problems at all.
I use the lift for everything//// loading stuff in the truck bed, having a place to set for a beer...and last weekend, picking up the rear of my car trailer ( engine lift on the nose ) to rewire brakes and pack wheel bearings. It does it all!
Got me a digital torque wrench and set them all to 80(manual says 60-80). One bolt is pulling out, I am going to get a 7" bolt instead of the 5-1/4....hopefully that will take. When I say columns move, it is very subtle. That is also with the jeep one safety lock below the highest lock. I can get it to move by grabbing hold of the column and forcefully rocking it back and forth...I don't notice any movement at the base, just when looking at the top of the post and can see the jeep rock a bit. I did however get a 2 ton high jack stand from harbor freight and put it under the front....big improvement. Going to get another one for the rear though.
Well I am officially worried. I had to lift the jeep to the top to get underneath and when I lowered it on to the safety locks I felt the jolt in the floor. ..and that was slowly lowering it. I waited for the antenna to stop moving and jumped up and down right next to the post and actually got the antenna to start moving. ..I am only 180lbs. Anyone want to see if they can get this to occur with theirs? Not sure if I am worrying to much about this or what.
pattenp
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Without being there to see what you are actually experiencing it's hard to say if it's a problem. All I can say is I get no noticeable movement in my two post lift when lifting or lowering a vehicle. I may have missed it in other post but what strength and thickness concrete do you have? Any control joints near the columns? Oh I see in pictures there are control joints around the lift. Look in the joint areas to see if you can notice any movement while someone else raises and lowers the jeep.
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Floating slab poured in two sections. Each section is 30x15. I was suppose to have steel in it but the damn contractor changed it on me. So it is at least 8" thick fiberglass reinforced, he said he poured more where I was installing the lift but was probably lying. The control joints were cut two months after it was poured. ..only because it stared cracking and of course it cracked rigth where I wanted the lift.