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2 post vs. 4 post lifts

Mike in Ohio

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Just finishing up my new shop, 30 x 44 x 11'5. My question is why did you pick a 2 post lift over a 4 post, or a 4 post over a 2 post? I'm leaning towards a 2 post, but I want to hear why you guys put in the lifts you did.
Thanks alot,
Mike
 
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krooser

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Look at what dealers use... mostly two post. these are service lifts... most 4 posts are parking lifts.

True you can also service a car on a 4 post but it's a little more hassle having to use a rolling jack, etc.

I have a 20+ year old Weaver 9000# lift... tough as nails and still going strong. Bought it used 10 years ago for $1800.00.
 

Junkman

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I picked a 4 post lift, because my cars are extremely heavy, and there is no way that I would trust a 2 post lift with a car weighing 7000+ pounds and 20+ feet long. I just don't think that I could get the balance right every time.
 

ScaldedDog

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Junkman, I hope you're wrong, as I plan to work under my 19' 8000lb Excursion while it's sitting on my new SL210 (in-ground) 2-post lift. :bounce:

Mark
 

akdiesel

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I went with the 4 post lift because I use it for storing and servicing my vehicles.
I don't own a 2 post lift but they seem to be much better for servicing vehicles then the 4 post lifts.
 

gsport

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i went with a four post because with casters it's portable.. putting up insulation in my
45x60 shop i can use it as a scafold..lol really i just like the portability of a four post
 

bobs409

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4 post for me because it instantly turned my 2.5 car garage into a 3.5 car garage! :bounce:

Also, I wouldn't want to have my suspension hanging down for long periods of time if I did store a car on a 2 post.


Bob

P.S, you don't need to have a rolling jack. I put a piece of plate steel across the runways and use scissors jacks I got from some S10 Blazers for $1 each! They work great!
 

hossmwp

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I went with a two post Mowhawk lift. I was able to find it used through a Mowhawk dealer that took it down. I didnt consider the 4 post due to the layout of my shop. I have a heated area in the front with a roll up door to the back. I didnt want to block that when I located the lift on the side of the shop.

The big deciding factor will be your concrete floor. If you are going to be putting up a lift I would figure a 4 post would require less in terms of concrete specs but thats an assumption.

I prefer working on and around a 2 post lift especially if you work on other projects that dont require the lift. I dont have any photos to share of my lift at this time but I may be able to get a few taken in the next few days.
 

Kevin54

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With a lot of the newer cars, if you want to pull the engine, the engine drops out from underneath. A two post is ideal for this. Also for any brake work, wheel swaps, you want a two post. Trannys, driveshaft, parking, etc. a four post. I don't have either one but this is what I see from helping my nephew out in his garage business.
 

hossmwp

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With a lot of the newer cars, if you want to pull the engine, the engine drops out from underneath. A two post is ideal for this. Also for any brake work, wheel swaps, you want a two post. Trannys, driveshaft, parking, etc. a four post. I don't have either one but this is what I see from helping my nephew out in his garage business.

I think you have pretty well summed it up. You will have more access and work area with the 2 post. I know they make 2 post lifts that will easily accomodate 10,000 lbs the question would be the floor in the building.
 

Stuart in MN

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The big deciding factor will be your concrete floor. If you are going to be putting up a lift I would figure a 4 post would require less in terms of concrete specs but thats an assumption.

This is a good point, if your garage is already completed - the four post lifts don't require anything special for the garage floor, you can pretty much set them anywhere you'd park a car. The two post lifts need to be bolted down, and may require additional reinforcements to the floor.
 

hossmwp

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I was told by the company that I got my lift from that I needed a minimum of 4 inches of concrete, in good condition, and it had to be 3000psi as the minimum but they would prefer 4000 psi. I wasnt sure of the psi however they came out and did a few test holes and said the concrete was good. I had just about 6 inches total.

If you want a 10,000lb capacity lift you may need more than 4 inches of concrete also.
 

coldtexan

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I had the same issue. The 4 post would allow me to store another vehicle when it was not being used but it takes up a lot more room. The 2 post that I ended up with is nice for doing work on a car or truck but I am not comfortable with leaving a car up in the air with it.

The 2 post I ended up with is a Worthington made in Texas and I am very happy with it. The locks work well and it is very secure but I still will not leave a car elevated for storage.

My concrete is 5 inches thick and well reinforced. I was told it should be good to support the 2 post and so far it has been fine. After laying under cars for years the lift has really made it easier although I must admit it does spend a lot of time just sitting there.

Coldtexan
 

hossmwp

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Not so sure if I would use my 2 post for storage but I havent had any trouble leaving cars up for a few days while I finish a project. I agree with the previous post..I sure do like working standing or sitting instead of on my back on the floor. I highly doubt I would purchase a lift in many situations. I was fortunate enough to have family close by that also was able to split up the cost and use of the lift so it seems to get a fair amount of action.
 

mustangmike68

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I bought a used rotary 2 post about a year ago and love it. My son and i do mostly axle and drivetrain work. sp9 will lift my dually up no problem.If you want it for parking a 4 post would be better. Alot of great advice on this thread.
 

tfi racing

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That would be my suggestion!I will be going with the 4 post as the extra parking space will come in handy.Most of the work I will be doing on the hoist will be on the race car,the set up and scaling is done with the wheels(or stands under the hubs)with the car at ride height,it will be good not to have to crawl and look at things upside down anymore!:headscrat
 

SteveU

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I bought a 2 post Mohawk because I only use mine for working on vehicles & not storing them & this thing will lift anything I or my friends will ever want to work on. The 2 post works well for exhaust, brakes, tire rotations, anything the wheels have to come off for, & can also be used for unconventional things like lifting the riding mower overhead for blade changes & sharpening or lifting things into the back of my pickup. Whatever you buy they pay for themselves quickly, got mine in June of 08 & have already saved over 1000.00 in labor over what I'd have payed taking the cars into a shop.
 

HIRISC

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Not really on-topic, but I bought a scissor lift first for easy wheel removal and detailing.

I bought a 4 post a while later primarily for storage.

I'd agree with ^^ posts, if don't need the lift for storage and/or your primary use is 'full-service', then a 2 post is probably ideal.

IMG_0784.jpg


Lift.jpg
 
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ovilla

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I have a BendPak HD-9 with an RJ-45 (4,500 lb) rolling air jack and also a rolling jacking tray (which can be used to place jack stands on or used as a sliding table to hold drain pans, tools, lights, etc.).

2 Post lifts (Known as great service lifts but here's the drawbacks I see)
- Might not be able to fully open doors while working on cars.
- Take up more than one bay in a garage (your two car garage may become a one car)
- Do not allow for long-term car storage.
- Don't offer any place to put down tools/parts (you'll need a tool cart or use the floor)
- Will require the use of additional jack stands or the floor if you ever need to raise anything up, like a suspension.
- Will require use of a rolling drain pan unless YOU want to be on the floor using a regular non-rolling drain pan.
- Can't be used to set front/rear vehicle height on adjustable height vehicles (think torsion bar or adjustable spring perch suspensions) since the suspension is always hanging down.
- Can't be used to perform home alignment of track vehicles
- Not portable (unless it's a BendPak MaxJax)
- Placement of lift within your garage may limit the vehicles and/or service performed.


4 Post (No drawbacks at all - Yes, I'm partial to the 4 post lifts)
- Even without a rolling air jack or jack tray, you can still lower a whole vehicle onto 4 jack stands, and quickly get all four tires off the ramps.
- Can be moved to the center of the shop with the use of a castor kit. This is great if you need extra space for pulling axle splines from a Jeep or truck.
- Can be used for snow mobile or winter storage of bikes, mowers.
- Can be used to lift rider mowers to perform blade changes or sharpening of blades.
- Allows for opening of doors at any height. Makes it very easy to work under the dash.
- Can be used as a platform for working on garage ceilings or lifting things into the garage attic.
- BendPak HD-9 and HD-9XW have ramps that adjust from 37-44" wide so you can drop engines and ******'s down between the ramps.


This is how I get all four wheels off my 4 post lift.
With the use of the RJ-45 I can easily raise the front/rear as needed and lock the air jack at 3 predetermined heights with ease. I just drive on the ramps, set the car in Park, raise the car to a comfortable working height and slide the rolling air jack into position, extend the sides of the RJ-45 and hit the up/down lever until the wheels are off the ramps and the RJ-45 reaches a locking position. Very easy!

If I need all four wheels off the ground I raise the front wheels with the RJ-45, slightly behind the front end, and then slide the jacking tray over to the exact spot where I can put jackstands under the front end, and then lower the vehicle on to the front jack stands. I then slide the RJ-45 to the rear and lift the vehicle to one of the locking points. Done!
 
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SteveU

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Mike, that is something he welded up himself & which I will be duplicating this summer when I get my welder. He posted details probably about a year or so ago if you want to look for the post. Mohawk makes something like that for my lift but it is very expensive (1400.00).
 

Junkman

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I have a BendPak HD-9 with an RJ-45 (4,500 lb) rolling air jack and also a rolling jacking tray (which can be used to place jack stands on or used as a sliding table to hold drain pans, tools, lights, etc.).
............................

When did Bend Pak start offering a rolling jack tray? All I have ever seen was the sliding jack tray. :headscrat
 

HIRISC

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When did Bend Pak start offering a rolling jack tray? All I have ever seen was the sliding jack tray. :headscrat

The 'old' version apparently was 'rolling'.

The currently available model is the (somewhat less popular w/ users) sliding version.

Old:
BendPakRJ-45-2.jpg


New:
250.jpg
 
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avc8130

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Jan 24, 2008
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I have been considering this myself. You need to quantify EXACTLY what you are expecting from your lift. Do that and the choice can be made much better. The way I see it:
Everything that can be done on a 2 post can be done on a 4 post (except maybe front cradle removals) with some sacrifice of speed and ease.
2 post cannot be used for storage very well. Can't be used as scaffold. Can't install pans and store anything you wish above your head.
Give us a list of what you want, we will be more helpful.
ac
 

jjkrjh

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Ohio
I don't have a lift at home. But have used lifts for many years at the dealers. If i were to purchase one for the house it would be a 4-post. If you go to any dealer and ask which lift a car has fallen off of and it is a 2-post. On full frame cars and trucks you have to be very careful and watch the arms for sliding(kicking out). Also pulling transmissions/transfercases might be impossible with some 2-posts because the trans jack can't go back far enough bacause of the crossover plate of the lift. The 4-posts are nice for brake jobs, you can lay the parts and tools right on the deck. Also you drive right on and raise it up, don't have to waste time getting the car centered and putting the arms under.For checking noises(suspension) the car can be bounced with the weight on it. My cars sit very low, I would be unable to get arms under the frames. Ramps would have to be used to get on a 4-post also.

If I worked on more front wheel drive and some late model vehicles that had to have the drivetrain dropped out the bottom, the 2-post would be the better choice.
 
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M

Mike in Ohio

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Thank you all for your answers. I think my answer is the 2 post with the crossover on top rather than on the floor. The main reason being that I like to work on antique tractors as well as old cars and trucks (69 ford pickup & 69 ford torino). Also with the 2 post if I need to get my backhoe into the shop it will fit between the posts, and I can use the arms for a sort of crane to lift large peices off of it if need be. I hadn't thought about the tractors at first but when I saw vicegrips wheel supports bolted to his lift I thought that would be a good setup for a couple of my lighter tractors (2500# or so). So thanks again and keep the ideas coming. Mike

:beer:
 

SteveU

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One thing you have to be careful of is that the arms are rated at 1/4 the total capacity of the lift. You would not want to lift a vehicle that is extremely unbalanced weight wise such as a fork lift which would cause you to overload any arms even though total weight is within the capability of the lift. Make sure you have the height for the lift as most models recommend 12' min.
 
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Mike in Ohio

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I do see what you mean about the balance and the weight on each individual arm. As far as the height I figure the extra 6 inches or so can go between the trusses. I'm only 5'8" so even my expedition should be high enough to walk under withput hitting the ceiling. Thanks again, Mike
 

83diesel

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I do see what you mean about the balance and the weight on each individual arm. As far as the height I figure the extra 6 inches or so can go between the trusses. I'm only 5'8" so even my expedition should be high enough to walk under withput hitting the ceiling. Thanks again, Mike


Keep in consideration of the hood being open with the car completely raised on any lights on heaters it may contact. You may say you will always check or close the hood, but I have seen several mechanics burn the paint off a hood or hit the hood on the ceiling. Usually from being in a big hurry.
 

Kevin54

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Not really on-topic, but I bought a scissor lift first for easy wheel removal and detailing.

I bought a 4 post a while later primarily for storage.

I'd agree with ^^ posts, if don't need the lift for storage and/or your primary use is 'full-service', then a 2 post is probably ideal.

IMG_0784.jpg


Lift.jpg


Are all newer cars designed so that a scissor lift will work? I've never seen one up close so I don't know. I know that some of the cars I have seen though in the nephews shop has been rigged so much underneath with stuff hanging down I don't see how it would work. I am assuming that the lift is designed to hit on the frame rails or do you have to use some blocking of some type to take up any variances in the frame design?

Also..is that a true Yenko? If so.....Sweeeet :bowdown:
 

HIRISC

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Are all newer cars designed so that a scissor lift will work? I've never seen one up close so I don't know. I know that some of the cars I have seen though in the nephews shop has been rigged so much underneath with stuff hanging down I don't see how it would work. I am assuming that the lift is designed to hit on the frame rails or do you have to use some blocking of some type to take up any variances in the frame design?

Also..is that a true Yenko? If so.....Sweeeet :bowdown:

I've lifted a dozen completely different types of vehicles with the scissor - no trouble. The arms move for/aft as well as radially. The lift also comes with a set of pad extensions - if you have a flat bottom (like my Z), you just use the basic pads.. If you have a car (like my Camaro) where the front sub-frame is 'lower' than the rear leaf spring connection point, you just use a the extenders on the rear arms. The only way the scissor can't be used is if there are no lift points within its reach - not very likely.

Re the 'Yenko' - it's a very well done clone.. I wouldn't pay the money they want for a real one in this condition. Plus, I like to drive my cars.:thumbup:

Here's a pic of the extenders:
Extensions.jpg
 

mikeceli

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May 24, 2006
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2 post if your gonna do any serious mechanical work.

If your going to just do oil changes and detail clean the chassis (show car stuff) get a 4 post.

My old shop had 2 Benwil 7000 lifts. We stored cars on those 2 post lifts, every night for over 10 years, never a problem.

I have a Powerrex SL10000BP, from Complete hydraulics. It's a great 2 post, symetric/asymetric lift.
 

Nugent1021

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Dec 23, 2008
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Tallahassee, Florida
Hey, I noticed asedeals has the BendPak XPR-10ACX for $2615 and the Dannmar D-10ACX for $2185. They appear identical (well, except color and name). The Dannmar doesn't say anything about the single-point safety release, optional 24" extension, or if it's ETL approved.

Anyone more familiar with the differences? asedeals is tough to get in touch with.
 

HIRISC

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Hey, I noticed asedeals has the BendPak XPR-10ACX for $2615 and the Dannmar D-10ACX for $2185. They appear identical (well, except color and name). The Dannmar doesn't say anything about the single-point safety release, optional 24" extension, or if it's ETL approved.

Anyone more familiar with the differences? asedeals is tough to get in touch with.

Go to the source:
http://www.dannmar.com/products/two-post-lifts/D-10ACX/index.html

Re ASE - IMO, the $ you save isn't worth the lack of service. I bought my lifts elsewhere.
 
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