2 switches, 2 outlets - wiring options

[elav]

I would like to add two outlets to my garage ceiling. Each outlet will have 1 plug powered 100% of the time for the garage door opener and the other outlet switched for a garage light. The switched outlets will be controlled by a double gang box with 2 switches in it.

Is there a better why to wire this than the following? (Please let's not discuss 12 vs. 14 gauge wire)

1. 12/2 from sub-panel to double gang box with 2 switches
2. 12/3 wire leaving from each switch, going to each outlet. Use common and black wire for the outlet for the garage door opener and the common and red wire for the switched outlet for the light.

I can run wire from the switches to one outlet and then the 2nd outlet. Seems like 2x 12/3 leaving the double gang box with the switches is nearly twice the wire I need. Is there such thing as 12/4 wire that can be had at the big box stores? Any other suggestions? Sorry, I know this is difficult without a picture...

 

[pattenp]

There is 12/4, but I've never seen it in the big box stores.

 

[elav]

So the common path is to run two separate 12/3 out of the double gang box even though they are going to be on the same circuit?

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

The switched outlets will be controlled by a double gang box with 2 switches in it.
QUOTE]

So each light will have separate switch in the same switch box?

 

[elav]

**** in Wisconsin; So each light will have separate switch in the same switch box?

Yes, I will have 2 switches in the same box as you walk into the garage. It will allow me to turn on the lights on the right side of the garage and left side of the garage separately.

 

[pattenp]

The best way to wire depends on the switch location and outlet location in relation to the power source. Is the power going to be coming in at the switch box so you have power and switch loop running together to the outlets or is the power pulled directly to the outlets with just switch loops coming from the switch box?

 

[hammerandhand]

1. 12-2 from the panel to the ceiling box 1,
2. 12-3 from ceiling box 1 to ceiling box 2,
3. 12-3 from ceiling box 1 to switch box,
Here is where it gets wordy.
I started to write out the wiring scheme, but it is taking too long. PM me your phone number and I'll call you and walk you through it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

If I understand your requirements correctly ...

1. Pull 12-2 from panel to ceiling box. (If it was me I would use an extra deep ceiling box.)
2. Break tab on hot side of duplex outlet (Again, if it was me, I would pay extra for a real 20A rated duplex outlet.)
3. Leave the hot (black) wire about 4-6" longer than the neutral (white) wire. Split insulation on this black wire about 4-6" from end, pull back so there is a bare space in the middle and make a half loop that will go around the "always hot" screw. The remaining wire as a pigtail. Connect neutral (white) to the neutral screw (do not break the tab on this side).
4. Pull 12-2 from switch box to ceiling box
5. Splice the black "always hot" pig tail to the black wire running to the switch.
6. Place back tape/black heat shrink around white wire from the switch (just so that you know it is now a hot conductor; pros would skip this, but I think it is important for non-pros !)
7. Connect this last switched hot to the other hot screw on the duplex outlet.
8. Splice all ground together and leave one long to connect to the outlet

There may be other ways of doing it, but this is the simplest most straight forward.


Repeat for the second ceiling outlet. You can tap the first box for power for the second box by coming off of the "always hot" black pig tail and the second neutral screw (if you did NOT break the tab).

 

[eljefino]

If your town is already on 2011 NEC they'll want a neutral in the switch box (for running fancy gizmo switches), which would complicate Oldwizard's best & simplest answer.

However, if your wall isn't drywalled, there's an exception that you could wire it with 12/2 (no neutral) now and add a neutral later.

If you don't plan any fancy switches/ timers, hurry up and slither Oldwizard's plan in before it's not kosher.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

I would put all the lights on one switch.

But it isn't my garage.

 

[elav]

1. 12-2 from the panel to the ceiling box 1,
2. 12-3 from ceiling box 1 to ceiling box 2,
3. 12-3 from ceiling box 1 to switch box,
Here is where it gets wordy.
I started to write out the wiring scheme, but it is taking too long. PM me your phone number and I'll call you and walk you through it.

Ah, I didn't understand where you were going with this until eljefino's post. That would be less wiring. I'll have to look into 2011 NEC. Thanks!

 

[hammerandhand]

The 12-3 btn the switchbox and first ceiling box allows for the incoming feed and both switched legs all traveling in the same wire.
The 12-3 btn the two light boxes allows for the hot feed from box 1 to box 2 on one conductor and the switched leg on the other conductor.

 

[theoldwizard1]

If your town is already on 2011 NEC they'll want a neutral in the switch box (for running fancy gizmo switches),

REALLY ! Never heard of that !!! The solution would then be:

1. Run 12-3 from the ceiling box to the switch box
2. Connect the white wire to the other neutrals in the ceiling box
3. Leave the white wire capped and unconnected in the switch box
4. Put black tape on the ends on the red wire (signifying hot return from switch)
5. In the ceiling box, connect the red/black to the second hot screw

which would complicate Oldwizard's best & simplest answer.

Thanks !

However, if your wall isn't drywalled, there's an exception that you could wire it with 12/2 (no neutral) now and add a neutral later.

WOW ! I can't believe they would actually put that exception in writing !

If you don't plan any fancy switches/ timers, hurry up and slither Oldwizard's plan in before it's not kosher.

I won't tell, if you won't !