20 amp 250V outlet question

[Parke]

I'm taking my little garage shop to the next level by converting a few tools to the 230/240V configuration, (from 115-120V) which requires 230-240V (250V) circuits. I got snagged previously for not having tamper resistant (TR) 120 V 20 amp receptacles. But as far as I can tell, there are no 250V, 20 amp (NEMA 6-20P) tamper resistant receptacles. Apparently, these are considered commercial (industrial) use not residential use and TR is a residential requirement only.

So what is the NEC code story on this? 120V circuits require TR receptacles if located less than 5'6" above the floor in residential environments, garage included. There aren't any 250V 20 amp TR receptacles available, and I sure don't want to have to locate them 66" off the ground, particularly as I am only 63" tall.

Thanks!

 

[sberry]

You can change this and so can I but,,,I don't unless there is a real compelling reason. Its neat to run all the possibilities thru your mind but in the end it doesn't have a lot of gain.

 

[_Dock_]

Watts is watts is watts! Doesn't matter, save your money and buy more tools!

 

[sberry]

My paint fan is a motor I could convert, its 30 ft from a panel and 1 hp that is used very sparingly, it works fine and wouldn't save a nickel in a decade improving it and it would take up another breaker space.

 

[sberry]

There is a lot of plus to 120, very simple and so common and uses what you got, a lot of the engineering and safety done with the factory cords and plug selection. Same for my table saw, 1 hp, it works, never tripped a breaker, not part of a production process. 120 is good, I move it once in a while, never had to rewire.

 

[alfredeneuman]

406.12 Tamper-Resistant Receptacles in Dwelling Units.
In all areas specified in 210.52, all nonlocking-type 125-volt, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles shall be listed tamper-resistant receptacles.
Exception: Receptacles in the following locations shall not be required to be tamper-resistant:
(1) Receptacles located more than 1.7 m (5-1⁄2 ft) above the floor
(2) Receptacles that are part of a luminaire or appliance.
(3) A single receptacle or a duplex receptacle for two appliances located within dedicated space for each appliance that, in normal use, is not easily moved from one place to another and that is cord-and-plug connected in accordance with 400.7(A)(6), (A)(7), or (A)(8).

 

[Stuart in MN]

As pointed out the tamper resistant issue only applies to 120vac receptacles. As also pointed out, if your existing power tools already run on 120vac there isn't any real good reason to convert them to 240vac.

 

[Parke]

Thanks for the responses. My first thought is, well that just saved me a lot of trouble. Mucho gracias. My second thought is, I think I need to ge back and re-read some references. I had it pretty well set in my mind that certain larger -motored tools, e.g. tablesaws, larger jointers, planars do better motor/operation wise with the 230-240V option as compared to the 115-120V configuration. I mean, why provide the option in the first place if it doesn't provide any real value. 120V is standard in the U.S., are there foreign markets where these tools are sold that are 220V standard?

Dock, the last thing I need is encouragement in that area. Please be careful with that advice.

Hey Mad man (ALfred), I read that as well, the best interpretation I came up with was that (3) might apply but that this section was really referring to appliances like ovens and electric dryers. I was doubtful that a plug in tool(s) qualified for the exception.

Sberry, thanks for the comments. I'm guessing there might be a nice garage build thread associated with your avatar pic. I think I'll be doing a little searching.

 

[_Dock_]

There are a few advantages to having a 240 volt motor but the pros don't really out weigh the cons in a situation like this.

 

[sberry]

A lot of things get complicated real fast when you get away from 120. My neighbor has a regular garage with a bunch of tools, he has 240 air and welder and the rest of it 120 from a couple general circuits.
You can run multiple tools from 240 but it involves sizing several things and not worth it till you get to a different scale, got a cousin that did it but he has a master bud and it was planned for and he does have bigger machines.
If you are not tripping breakers and having overload issues let it fly. One thing I might do if using motors from a general regular,,, at least take a look after a year or so and check screwed connectors, snug all the screws on the circuit.
I found one of my own boogered a while back. It had worked but hasd some funny draw numbers and I let it slide, went back to and something and the wire falls off in my hand. Working on something awkward in the dark I missed a good connection.
Anyway, using 120 reduces so many complications and is so much cheaper using less circuits to power more tools, only 1 major at a time but it all that is normally used.
My shop has a fair amount of parasitic draw, most of the power is consumed that way and the rest of the place operates much in the same way a kitchen counter top might with sporadic intermittent loads with the occasional heater or a party on occasion. Real big loads are quite rare and mostly a combination and with the exception of a 300 Synchrowave I don't use I couldn't overheat a 10 wire if I tried with the rest of it.

 

[sberry]

I had it pretty well set in my mind that certain larger -motored tools, e.g. tablesaws, larger jointers, planars do better motor/operation wise with the 230-240V option as compared to the 115-120V configuration. I mean, why provide the option in the first place if it doesn't provide any real value. 120V is standard in the U.S., are there foreign markets where these tools are sold that are 220V standard?

The option is provided so you can do both, in industrial for example there could be long circuits with multiple machines, probably other things I don't think about but in your case basically no and no difference and any gains in transmission would be a few cents over a lifetime.
A 1 hp motor still doesn't load a 12 to 80%, V drop and losses with it would be of much concern until it got way beyond 100 ft and this is a fairly large motor with most small tools today being in the 3/4 with the exception of small air comps.