Our shop has the cheaper Sunex, Mountain 22 ton air jacks ( the kind with the handle, two wheels, and three adapters). They are painfully slow comparred to a cheap old bottle jack that you pump by hand. What air hydraulic jacks have you guys used that are worth using compared to a regular old bottle jack. Not interested in the long chassis floor jacks, have two quality ones already.
20 ton truck air jack
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I have used them on shop air and truck air, and they have a seperator on them. They seem slow to me as in I can use a bottle jack by hand faster. They may be gunked up or have some sort of issue with them but a buddy of mine says his dad's shop has a blue-point that is a Hein-Werner knock off. It looks like a bottle jack with a accumlator and long handle with two wheels. He says it's twice as fast as the ones we use at our shop. Also 4 times the money.
Any way to test or adjust them? They are probably 2 years old and don't get used daily.
If its slower than a 20 ton Hydraulic Hand Jack you definitely have problems. If you take the cover off you can gain access to the Pump, Its connected to the Hydraulic jack by a Union connection. Once you get the Air Pump disconnected it only takes 4 Long Allen head screws to access the Pump Piston and 99 out of 100 of those jacks are so gunked up you cant get enough suction or Push for the jack to work properly.
I will try that and see what I come up with. Thanks for the input. Hopefully that's all it is.
diesel research
Well-known member
We just keep multiple around. One set up roughly the height of front/rear axles for tractors (L base) and one round base extended roughly to the height of trailer axles.
Of course you don't need to jack up the vehicles more than 1-1/2" usually. Just enough to get a tire off the ground for removal, to spin for driveshaft removal, or panhard bar removal/other suspension unloading. We never use them to actually lift the equipment up for clearance reasons.
Seems fast enough to me.
Of course you don't need to jack up the vehicles more than 1-1/2" usually. Just enough to get a tire off the ground for removal, to spin for driveshaft removal, or panhard bar removal/other suspension unloading. We never use them to actually lift the equipment up for clearance reasons.
Seems fast enough to me.
Any jack is fast if you leave it at the truck's resting height. In field use it's not a good idea to leave the ram exposed to the elements and in the shop with mulitple different kinds of trucks and trailers the extensions, screw position and ram are always at different heights when put away.
Most times the vehicle only needs lifted enough to remove the tire or spin the driveline as you suggested, but for removing the transmission from undeneath a truck that has tons of obstructions or a axle removal job where the truck needs to be put on tall jack stands, bushing jobs on trailers where the axle needs to rotate 8 inches downward to access the bushings, etc. The jacks just seem to not be worth the money for the time they take to raise and position compared to a regular bottle jack.
Still see a lot of the OTR tire guys still using standard bottle jacks. And every second counts in that business when you're competing for pennies.
MetalsRecycling
Well-known member
Hey guys, hoping you can help me identify a OLD Hein Werner jack I just picked up. It is very old, very big, and very heavy. I have tried all the hein werner websites and nobody knows anything about it. It is about 6' long, and 3" wide, with dual pistons and 4 wheels, apparently made to roll under a vehicle and lift the rear axle. It works great. The name plate has the following information: HEIN WERNER PORTABLE AIR LIFT AL35-3 I would like to know the date of mfg., the weight lifting capacity, the original cost when new, and the approximate current value. Any info you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
I have no idea what the age is, My book skips the Al-35 for some reason but based off the AL-15 being 1.5 tons and the AL-25 being 2.5 tons and the AL-50 being 5 tons, I suspect its rated at 3.5 tons. All of those model numbers are End lifts, Your 6' long and 3" wide description doesnt match any of the above mentioned lifts. Current Value? Who knows? If its a End lift those things have really dropped in price because it takes a solid Bumper/Frame to work. Maybe some pictures?
diesel research
Well-known member
I know this is a semi old post and OP may not come back to see it, but again, I feel you might be using a lesser efficient tool for some of those jobs. Drive on ramps reduce need for jacks during clutch jobs, except again, rotating driveshafts.
Most air jacks have an auto retract function, so the ram isn't exposed to the elements. Pre-set height comes either from the jackscrew, various jack "bases", or a combination of the 2. One of the bases (extensions) we have is almost 10" tall, and slides under most trailer axles and almost immediately starts lifting. Of course, 3 seconds with screw adjustment allows for minor variances. Sometimes It won't slide under a bumper of a trailer, but it takes no time at all to pull the extension off, slide jack under and then reinstall it. Only gravity is holding it on. Low profile "L-bases" seem to fit under most tractor differentials or front axles.
Not having to actually crawl under unit to place and pump up jack makes things nice.
For subframe, leafspring, or equallizer work, I use a ddifferent jack all together. It's a combination jack/jackstand and is MUCH taller. Lift the body of a trailer off the subframe in a matter of seconds. Takes more time to pull the slider, disconnect the 2 air hoses, and 5 way wiring connector than it does to actually lift.
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To answer the original question, we use 2 brands of jacks. Gray USA and Blackhawk.
and Gray support stand/jack
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UGH... at that Blackhawk. Its no different that the HF models, With that said ive been inside both many times and there not bad units but the Air system better be clean or its gonna have problems.
This In either Walker/Lincoln/HeinWerner is the One to get. The Long stroke Air Cylinder will last much longer than the Shorter ones.
This In either Walker/Lincoln/HeinWerner is the One to get. The Long stroke Air Cylinder will last much longer than the Shorter ones.
Strouty
Well-known member
When they say made in north america on the website, does that mean mexico?
Nope.. It Means..
10939 N. Pomona Ave, Kansas City, MO 64153 and In Ohio i believe, I cant remember the location of the Second US based Factory as i deal strictly with the KC branch for parts.
Everything on this Page is Made in the USA still. SFA stands for Shinn fu of america which is the parent company that bought Lincolns hydraulic line out. They make/Own alot of the Jacks that can be found in numerous stores today, Including Pro-lift, Blackhawk and Omega. Even today you can take the majority the New Part numbers (HW) and use it on the Older Walker/Lincoln Jacks.
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diesel research
Well-known member
I got you.. How many of those Blackhawk units have you been around? I see alot of them come into the shop where the Center Hollow portion of the ram is distorted to the point where it wont keep the Adapters Straight anymore.. Scary... Stuff... to say the least. I know those adapters are great in regards to speed but i prefer the adjustable screw for Height changes.
diesel research
Well-known member
3 or 4. Our adapters use a pipe sleeve that fits OVER the partially extended screw. (screw is inside pipe)
They typically meet their death when wheels fall off or are torn off due to someone driving off with jack still under. No ram/air motor damage. Adapters, of course take a bit of damage as the outer pipe sleeve gets mangled.
The gray's seem a little less robust in the chassis side of things. Neither seem to develop hydraulic/pneumatic issues.
They typically meet their death when wheels fall off or are torn off due to someone driving off with jack still under. No ram/air motor damage. Adapters, of course take a bit of damage as the outer pipe sleeve gets mangled.
The gray's seem a little less robust in the chassis side of things. Neither seem to develop hydraulic/pneumatic issues.
If you run clean dry air they will last along time, Unfortunately Automatic Oilers and Water will prevent the seals from pulling and pushing Air. The same can be said for most Air tools in regards to just the opposite. I normally try and straigten out the Return as they are the first thing to get mangled along with the tin covers. Ive seen alot of them come thru the shop... As far as the Chassis its just for looks anyway.. Another reason i like the HW linked above, Easy to get to and not trying to hide anything.