2007 Mercedes S600 W221 Full Code Scan Wiring Diagram

[kevinmatth]

Where would you start with this report?

 

[RTM]

If it was mine, I’d start sketching out the CAN BUS module diagrams, or finding them online, and then figure out where the “break” is, by seeing if all modules downstream of a certain point have the faults, and those above it are fine.

If that didn’t work, I’d sell it, or ask a professional to look at it,

 

[CGarage]

I would start with checking battery voltage.
No, seriously.
The modern German motor cars are highly sensitive to proper power supply / voltage and even an aging battery supplying less than optimum voltage will cause all sorts of electrical issues and phantom faults.

You need to look for a Mercedes Gold-meister tech in your area that was working with this generation of car and ask them to diagnose. Go up or down 5 years, and Mercedes technology changes quite a bit, and same with diagnostic protocol.

I had a W221, lovely car, but the S-Class models are the most sophisticated vehicles in the world and Mercedes spends over $1Bil USD+ on R&D costs for each S-Class generation. Safety features on 80s era Mercedes are only just now being incorporated into some current production vehicles.

 

[CGarage]

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[Yarpo]

I mean it doesn't look that bad?
Stored codes are not alarming here, unless you already cleared them, cycled the key/started the car, and retested.

Distronic needs to be re-calibrated any time sensors are replaced, anytime the windshield is replaced, blah blah.
I would re calibrate as the scan tool suggests, its one of your few current faults.
I believe D601 means the calibration was not completed successfully.

The rest just looks like a pump/leak issue with the multi-contour seats, super common.

 

[CGarage]

Start with verifying battery condition and voltage, please.

 

[kevinmatth]

Thank you so much for the suggestions. With Starfinder I pulled the wiring diagram and diagnosis info for the N47-5 ESP module here:

 

[kevinmatth]

Start with verifying battery condition and voltage, please.

You may be on track here now that I think about it. I checked the battery voltage in the trunk and it was pretty low, even though it is almost brand new, because the car sits a lot. I never did clear the codes after finding the low voltage. So far I just hooked up a battery charger to it and started trying to figure out how to unplug the N47-5 connector.

 

[CGarage]

I am willing to bet that is your problem.

Get the *proper* OEM battery or matching equivalent installed, it will be a big one for the V12 cars. Then clear the codes and report back. You may need to drive it for a bit and then clear codes.

Report back.

 

[CGarage]

I have replaced two OEM batteries in cars this year because they sit and I do not drive them enough and I don’t often use the trickle chargers.

Warmer climates are hard on car batteries as well and there have been multiple heat waves this summer, both in US and Europe.

You need to load test that battery and verify if it is the proper battery for the engine application and VIN#. Some shops and lazy parts counter employees will automatically pick a battery they think fits WITHOUT checking what the manufacturer requires for the specific model.

 

[kevinmatth]

One thing I did do first thing was check for 60 Ohms on the CAN pins of the N47 connector. I did what the diagnosis information says and unplugged the connector and found that pins 18 and 19 have 120 Ohms instead of 60 Ohms. I don't know if this would have anything to do with low voltage and I would almost expect to get multiple low voltage related codes as well on the scan.

 

[kevinmatth]

I have replaced two OEM batteries in cars this year because they sit and I do not drive them enough and I don’t often use the trickle chargers.

Warmer climates are hard on car batteries as well and there have been multiple heat waves this summer, both in US and Europe.

You need to load test that battery and verify if it is the proper battery for the engine application and VIN#. Some shops and lazy parts counter employees will automatically pick a battery they think fits WITHOUT checking what the manufacturer requires for the specific model.

In November of 2024 I replaced both the battery under the hood and in the trunk and I called the dealer to get the exact specs of the batteries and ensured that I puchased the appropriate size and type of batteries. I just can't imagine they are bad already?

 

[CGarage]

In November of 2024 I replaced both the battery under the hood and in the trunk and I called the dealer to get the exact specs of the batteries and ensured that I puchased the appropriate size and type of batteries. I just can't imagine they are bad already?

I have had it happen in less time with cars that sit, without trickle chargers.
The batteries should have warranty still through Mercedes.
The problem is that these modern German cars are never truly “off”, and there is parasitic draw occurring always. You need to drive the car weekly, or get a battery trickle charger.

 

[kevinmatth]

With having no CAN message from the ESP control unit, what would be the first thing to check at that connector?

 

[CGarage]

Did you test or replace both batteries?

 

[kevinmatth]

No, I only get a chance to look at this car every week or two and only for a couple hours at a time, if that. Which is why I am trying to maximize my time there when I get it and already have several other avenues to go down if one doesn't pan out.

 

[CGarage]

Good luck. This is the second most sophisticated model that Mercedes makes. I recommend you follow my advice.

 

[Wrench97]

Unplug the CTEL and see if the can bus come back up.

 

[CGarage]

Unplug the CTEL and see if the can bus come back up.

If he has not addressed the batteries first, then this is a dumb path forward.

 

[kevinmatth]

The phone error has been there for quite some time. This ESP is new. I will test the batteries and ensure they are fully charged first, then clear the codes, and see what remains. Just looking for other suggestions.

 

[CGarage]

You may need to change batteries, clear codes, drive the car a bit, clear codes and repeat. This has been my experience.

 

[kevinmatth]

The cost of those batteries are high so I probably won't just buy new ones without charging and testing the less than a year old ones I already have. They were around $500 for both.

 

[CGarage]

The cost of those batteries are high so I probably won't just buy new ones without charging and testing the less than a year old ones I already have. They were around $500 for both.

They should have warranty.

If modern German cars sit, this is what happens.

Had it happen twice this year on cars I do not drive much.

 

[Chipm]

I skimmed the thread, so sorry if I missed it, but:

What symptom are you trying to fix? Drivability problems? Warning lights?

Assuming ABS light is on, I would start by monitoring live data to see if the right front wheel speed sensor is live, and if not then I would test it again at the sensor connector. Then work backwards toward the module.

 

[NutsBoltsElectrons]

It would seem to be an intermittent right front wheel speed sensor reading.

1. Check wheel bearing play. Is adjustable.

2. Check "tone ring" target wheel that wheel speed sensor is pointing at.

3. If you can catch the wheel speed sensor dropping out on the scanner in the bay, use jumper cables with proper micro terminals to swap LF with RF to see if code changes.

There is a bulletin on changing the WSS to updated parts, but that may have been done years ago. ABS module circuit board cracks in the wheel speed sensor circuits are common on vehicles now days with the use of lead free solder.

The "CAN Bus" fault codes are message codes. When the WSS drops out the message to other modules is not valid. The RF must be the primary sensor for vehicle speed. I don't see any CAN bus faults. Clear all the codes, fix the ABS, and see what else comes back. With limited time I would tell the customer it's cheaper to inspect the wheel bearing, and tone ring, and just replace the sensor (ATE brand ~$100) then spending more diag time, esp. if very intermittent. If sensor doesn't fix it then send module out for repair. Vehicle will probably be down during that time.

 

[NutsBoltsElectrons]

Actually, on that old system you can check the resistance of the sensor. You might catch it that way.

The ABS module may be have a terminating resistor in it or the CAN bus is chained thru the module and a resistor is farther down the line is why you got 120ohms.

 

[NutsBoltsElectrons]

Ohm testing the sensor at the ABS module connector will also eliminate wiring issues, such as rodent damage.

 

[kevinmatth]

I skimmed the thread, so sorry if I missed it, but:

What symptom are you trying to fix? Drivability problems? Warning lights?

Assuming ABS light is on, I would start by monitoring live data to see if the right front wheel speed sensor is live, and if not then I would test it again at the sensor connector. Then work backwards toward the module.

It would seem to be an intermittent right front wheel speed sensor reading.

1. Check wheel bearing play. Is adjustable.

2. Check "tone ring" target wheel that wheel speed sensor is pointing at.

3. If you can catch the wheel speed sensor dropping out on the scanner in the bay, use jumper cables with proper micro terminals to swap LF with RF to see if code changes.

There is a bulletin on changing the WSS to updated parts, but that may have been done years ago. ABS module circuit board cracks in the wheel speed sensor circuits are common on vehicles now days with the use of lead free solder.

The "CAN Bus" fault codes are message codes. When the WSS drops out the message to other modules is not valid. The RF must be the primary sensor for vehicle speed. I don't see any CAN bus faults. Clear all the codes, fix the ABS, and see what else comes back. With limited time I would tell the customer it's cheaper to inspect the wheel bearing, and tone ring, and just replace the sensor (ATE brand ~$100) then spending more diag time, esp. if very intermittent. If sensor doesn't fix it then send module out for repair. Vehicle will probably be down during that time.

It started with the ESP warning light

"ABS and ESP inoperative see Oper. Manual".

Then I get those codes that I posted up top and on from there. Before all this though, I got the front right wheel speed sensor implausible code and after looking at live data I could see that sensor was not reporting so I replaced it with a genuine MB part and it solved it. Then I was getting a violent motion out of the suspension while driving and got an ABC message. Replaced the right front acceleration sensor and that took care of that message but now out of nowhere this ESP/ABS pops up.

 

[Dakotadadv8]

Mechanic