2021 Garage Sale Thread

[LesserSon]

rossddvm
That is a question I have wrestled with. I suggest a bath in chemical rust remover, which should leave them new-looking. You can scrub out the gullets with a used toothbrush or fine wire brush.
To keep them old-looking, you can skip the bath and clean them with a hand-held fine wire brush. You can use a sharp utility blade to scrape out each gullet, if they are packed. If there are a lot, do them a few at a time to avoid fatigue and shortcut-stimulating frustration.
I recall the absolute terms my 7th grade shop teacher used: “NEVER clean a file on a wire wheel.” But I have done it when a quick result was more important to me than a good result. The angle is critical - avoid abrading the cutting edges of the teeth.
However, because of the danger of dulling the teeth directly, or of introducing a magnetic field to the tool (which then clings to filings, dulling the teeth), I DO NOT reccommend it.
As far as rust prevention, a sealable container with packages of silicone desiccator, like come in electronics packaging, should help. Do not coat the files with oil or anything else - it can make them skid over work, flattening the teeth, or cause them to pick up debris and dull them that way. Just keep them as clean and dry as possible.
Rasps, if they are of excellent, irreplaceable, hand-made quality, can be professionally resharpened with waterjet. I talked to a guy one time who said he ships his to Italy for that purpose.

 

[Mr. Wonderful]

A few good treasures this weekend. A pair of old ships marker lamps. They have a horrible brushed on paint over galvanizing and not an exact matched pair but they are in good condition otherwise. The mower was a very lucky find. My old craftsman finally died after several resurrections. There is not a new mower to be had in any store in the northwest. This one is about four years old and had just been serviced. I bought it from the same gentleman as the Columbian vise and Kitchenaid mixer. He needed it gone quick and gave me a great price. The Columbian anvil was too cool to pass up. I don't know anything about it other than it seems to be all iron with no hardened plate.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

A pair of old ships marker lamps.

Nice find.

 

[Provincial]

I recently got a number of tools from my dad among them a number of files and rasps that are a little rusty. What is the best way to clean these up while preserving their "sharpness". How can I store them to prevent this from happening again? My shop stays dry, but humidity here in the summer can be a problem.

The old school method of sharpening dull files was to lay them in a bath of dilute acid. This also attacks the rust. Do an internet search "sharpen files" and check out the results.

 

[Shelbylex]

Rossddvm, look up file brush. I recently got one on yard sale, but did not have a chance to use it. This might help you clean up the files
May be somebody will add how useful you found them (I used to do it carefully with wirebrush and sharp blade previously)

 

[Old Radar]

I recently got a number of tools from my dad among them a number of files and rasps that are a little rusty. What is the best way to clean these up while preserving their "sharpness". How can I store them to prevent this from happening again? My shop stays dry, but humidity here in the summer can be a problem.

rossddvm
That is a question I have wrestled with. I suggest a bath in chemical rust remover, which should leave them new-looking. You can scrub out the gullets with a used toothbrush or fine wire brush.
To keep them old-looking, you can skip the bath and clean them with a hand-held fine wire brush. You can use a sharp utility blade to scrape out each gullet, if they are packed. If there are a lot, do them a few at a time to avoid fatigue and shortcut-stimulating frustration.
I recall the absolute terms my 7th grade shop teacher used: “NEVER clean a file on a wire wheel.” But I have done it when a quick result was more important to me than a good result. The angle is critical - avoid abrading the cutting edges of the teeth.
However, because of the danger of dulling the teeth directly, or of introducing a magnetic field to the tool (which then clings to filings, dulling the teeth), I DO NOT reccommend it.
As far as rust prevention, a sealable container with packages of silicone desiccator, like come in electronics packaging, should help. Do not coat the files with oil or anything else - it can make them skid over work, flattening the teeth, or cause them to pick up debris and dull them that way. Just keep them as clean and dry as possible.
Rasps, if they are of excellent, irreplaceable, hand-made quality, can be professionally resharpened with waterjet. I talked to a guy one time who said he ships his to Italy for that purpose.

The old school method of sharpening dull files was to lay them in a bath of dilute acid. This also attacks the rust. Do an internet search "sharpen files" and check out the results.

Rossddvm, look up file brush. I recently got one on yard sale, but did not have a chance to use it. This might help you clean up the files
May be somebody will add how useful you found them (I used to do it carefully with wirebrush and sharp blade previously)

Ross--
I think you've got your answers. Here is the practical application. Pictured is a file card--I got this one at an estate sale for a buck. You can find multiple sizes but I find bigger is better. Use it to clean out the grooves in the file--it will also loosen up the rust. Once the major crud is clear, immerse the files in a pan of white vinegar--this is a convenient type of dilute acid that Provincial mentioned. Depending on how badly they are rusted, you may need 12, 24 or 36 hours. Hose and scrub off the black residue--use a nylon brush and wear gloves because it sticks to your hands. If the rust isn't gone, dunk it back in the vinegar for a few more hours. If you've got a compressor, blow them dry when you are finished. You should notice the file has more bite after this process. If moisture is a real concern, follow LesserSon's advice. If not, a cool dry drawer should suffice. The big clue to prevent more rust is to use the file card after you finish filing to clean out the file's grooves. Raw metal filings are very susceptible to rust and are happy to pass it on to the file they are in contact with. Wood filings attract moisture.

Happy filing!

 

[mikeinri]

@Mr. Wonderful You ****! That's a beautiful tractor, and if that guy gave you a deal like you got on the other items (vise and mixer), nice job!!!

Mike

 

[Oldpine]

I recently got a number of tools from my dad among them a number of files and rasps that are a little rusty. What is the best way to clean these up while preserving their "sharpness". How can I store them to prevent this from happening again? My shop stays dry, but humidity here in the summer can be a problem.

I have sent files to Boggs Resharpening in Paramount California. I thought the cost was reasonable and the service was very good. You can call them or check out their website. (and the files came back very sharp!)
Tom

 

[saukit]

The 6 point sockets are impact, the two 12 point sockets look to be WW2 wartime.
-Don

Thanks! The 12 point sockets are Craftsman. One marked with a "BE" and the others with an "H" in a circle.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I am on my way to Aberdeen Proving Grounds for the first time since the pandemic, to observe an event that "just happened to be scheduled" on a Thursday, coinciding with one of my weekly fleas. Just two things this visit (Lugz 2021_42), but both goodies. An antique Williams rim tool and a highly desirable WWII "US QMC" stamped lady's foot pry bar.

 

[d42jeep]

No matter the price, you **** on the QMC pry bar!
-Don

 

[3baygarage]

Some interesting finds. I like the Williams.

 

[3jakes]

From one yard sale, a $10.00 lot:
Two Stanley folding 24" rules
Mystery thing
Plomb 12" adjustable, 712
Diamond Tool & Horseshoe S-8
Strange to me Wynn & Timmins Adjustable, (a mean tool I am glad I don't have to use)
W. Johnson Newark N J spokeshave
& to the left, a small brass hammer, toy or game piece?
And a Craftsman stubby phillips with rally flags.

 

[3jakes]

Then after about 30 houses with nothing of interest, I saw a red tool pouch on the blacktop driveway.
Opened it to see a new set of MAC air chisels.
I ask the price...
"Is five dollars too much....."
"No, says I, that will be just fine."
Then, I see a large air tool, the dang thing was so big and long, at first I didn't recognize what it was.
I saw the name Proto, & it looked in very nice shape.
"How much for that?"
"Twenty dollars"
"Yes, I'll take that as well"
Now if I only had an air compressor big enough to turn this thing over.
In fact, I don't even own a 1" drive socket.

 

[steaks&anvils]

From one yard sale, a $10.00 lot:
Two Stanley folding 24" rules
Mystery thing
Plomb 12" adjustable, 712
Diamond Tool & Horseshoe S-8
Strange to me Wynn & Timmins Adjustable, (a mean tool I am glad I don't have to use)
W. Johnson Newark N J spokeshave
& to the left, a small brass hammer, toy or game piece?
And a Craftsman stubby phillips with rally flags.

Mystery thing reminds me of a bone chisel. Looks kind of big, maybe veterinary? I googled it a little but what I found was giving me the creeps, so I stopped.

The little brass hammer looks shop made (the knurling). It doesn't appear to be made to put the handle into a larger tool handle? The wear on the handle looks like it was held in a pinch grasp and use to lightly tap some thing.

 

[Gidge]

Boot knife $10.00

 

[RTM]

Mystery thing

Nice score on the wooden folding rules, good price for those without the rest of the lot.

An oyster shucking knife would be my guess

Hood Bros Phila Oyster Clam Shucker Shucking Knife Collectible Old Tool READ | eBay

Hood Bros Phila Oyster Clam Shucker Shucking Knife. This is in reasonably good condition and was cleaned. This ain't perfect, but these guys rarely are and this is not a commonly found maker for this kind of tool.

www.ebay.com

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Some interesting finds. I like the Williams.

1914! Just posted it in the Williams thread.

No matter the price, you **** on the QMC pry bar!

It was an older gent with mostly household goods and one cardboard box filled with tools, mostly junk. It has a bend in it, and the point was damaged and re-shaped, but you know as well as I do the value is in the marking! I will flip it to someone who needs one for their GMTK and fill up my gas tank.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

An oyster shucking knife would be my guess

I have a few.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Some interesting items in the LEFT-BEHIND category today...

A bunch of vintage stencil/"fountain" brushes were in a wooden box. The tubular body screws off and holds the paint, like a grease gun, which is released into the bristles with a push-button. The side of the wooden box was made from an old crate mailer that was stenciled "FROM DETROIT BRASS MALLEABLE WORKS, DETROIT, MICH." The sellers were crazy, though. They were arguing viciously with each other in front of everyone else and they wanted way too much for everything, including this stuff.

I wanted Pic 5 real bad! Perfect for many occasions. That is about 4-1/2 inches long. "Wait, let me get out my world's smallest violin!" But it was the crazy sellers, who wanted more than I wanted to spend.

Pic 6 was priced reasonably, but I just didn't feel like spending that kind of money on a gag. I did stand there and trade funny, simpatico stories with the seller, a guy about my age (61), who could totally relate. When I was a kid, we had a blackboard in our kitchen near the phone on the wall, for messages. Hanging from a nail in one corner of the frame for the blackboard was a substantial homemade wooden paddle. As you guys know, my dad was an artist. On the paddle he had painted a Rockwellian picture of a little boy with his pants pulled down around his ankles and his *** cheeks were cherry red. The inscription on the paddle read, "BOARD OF EDUCATION." We were in high school and that paddle was still hanging there - with a crack in it!

 

[steaks&anvils]

Nice score on the wooden folding rules, good price for those without the rest of the lot.

An oyster shucking knife would be my guess

Hood Bros Phila Oyster Clam Shucker Shucking Knife Collectible Old Tool READ | eBay

Hood Bros Phila Oyster Clam Shucker Shucking Knife. This is in reasonably good condition and was cleaned. This ain't perfect, but these guys rarely are and this is not a commonly found maker for this kind of tool.

www.ebay.com

Yeah! I knew I had seen that before somewhere, sometime on one of the garage sale threads!

 

[steaks&anvils]

Pic 6 was priced reasonably, but I just didn't feel like spending that kind of money on a gag. I did stand there and trade funny, simpatico stories with the seller, a guy about my age (61), who could totally relate. When I was a kid, we had a blackboard in our kitchen near the phone on the wall, for messages. Hanging from a nail in one corner of the frame for the blackboard was a substantial homemade wooden paddle. As you guys know, my dad was an artist. On the paddle he had painted a Rockwellian picture of a little boy with his pants pulled down around his ankles and his *** cheeks were cherry red. The inscription on the paddle read, "BOARD OF EDUCATION." We were in high school and that paddle was still hanging there - with a crack in it!

My dad was a school principal for 48yrs (jr high), his board of education was about 3 feet long and hung on his office wall, as decoration. BUT he had a smaller one for actual use. In colorado, it was legal paddle school kids, WITH parental permission. Fewer suspensions that way... It's now illegal.

Just last month, the Colorado legislature almost made student assault, drugs, theft etc acceptable on school grounds. You would not have been able to call the police on them nor could they be arrested for it.

 

[Outlawmws]

Lugz, what did they want for the tiny flintlock?

Assault rifle, vintage 1776!

 

[JMLangford]

This is my first time posting in a long time.....
My Wednesday Flea Mkt finds

1 (made in China) Large 1 1/4" Craftsman combo wrench
1 (made is USA) Craftsman 13mm x 15mm DBE wrench (-VV- code)
1 (made is USA) Vintage Snap-On RXH2022S flare nut wrench - 5/8" x 11/16"
1 (made is USA) Mac M-15CW - 15mm combo wrench
1 (made is USA) Matco RC5202 - 5/8" stubby combo wrench
1 (?) Irwin 7WR Vice Grip pliers

Here they are all cleaned up.....


I got all 6 tools for $2....that makes each one .33 1/3¢ and that's a good day hunting!!!



.

 

[Old Radar]

Then after about 30 houses with nothing of interest, I saw a red tool pouch on the blacktop driveway.
Opened it to see a new set of MAC air chisels.
I ask the price...
"Is five dollars too much....."
"No, says I, that will be just fine."
Then, I see a large air tool, the dang thing was so big and long, at first I didn't recognize what it was.
I saw the name Proto, & it looked in very nice shape.
"How much for that?"
"Twenty dollars"
"Yes, I'll take that as well"
Now if I only had an air compressor big enough to turn this thing over.
In fact, I don't even own a 1" drive socket.

Holy vacuum, Batman! Let me count the ways you ****--1,2,3,4,5,6. Yes. Six--plus the pouch!

 

[Provincial]

Too bad that 1" impact wrench doesn't run on vacuum, because you **** enough to make it spin up to full speed!

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Lugz, what did they want for the tiny flintlock?

Assault rifle, vintage 1776!

Snerk. And it didn't jam as often as an AR-15! $25.

 

[jwsia]

Picked these up from the ReStore this week. 1/4 RHFT ratchet for 2$ and the set for 16$. I've never seen this set with the half deep sockets and flex head stubby ratchet. Its complete minus a couple of driver bits

 

[mikeinri]

What do you mean by "half deep sockets?" Are they not full-depth, or are you saying that because there's a mix of normal depth and deep sockets?

Mike

 

[Old Radar]

I wasn't carrying any bullion today so I had to walk away from several finds. Only came away with these two.

Blackhawk MT-1043 and Plomb WF-8.

The Blackhawk has thickness marking I've not notice before. The second pic shows 10 - 12 indicating the range .010 to .012.
Archive.org has an undated catalog (after 1963) with an artist rendering that shows this marking. The 1953 catalog rendering shows it with full decimals. I do like the fact that only the tips are ground to specs.



Couple of items I left behind:



I would have gone for the Belden Battery Terminal Tool if it hadn't been broken.

What drew me to this sale was the machinist box. Once I examined it, I concluded that it was a well done self-made collection. Several of the pieces had the letters ARO and some had AO. The shield in the center of the lid has a stylized 'A' and lurking behind the pink $80 price tag was the probable date '1949'.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

That Belden plier with the box wrench handle ends was made by Duro-Indestro. I have the Duro-Chrome version posted somewhere on the DI thread. EDIT: Linked here. Shame they were broken.

 

[Outlawmws]

Great finds guys!

I got out for 2 estates, one paid off, just not in mechanics tools:

Most, if not all of a spool of sisal rope, boxes of old drafting lead (definitely predates me being in a drafting room with those wood sleeves!), Drafting machine scale, two triangles, and a Film development canister.

 

[bmwrd0]

Whew, getting hot out there and getting hotter deals! Good show everyone!

I made four stops on my way to get my haircut, some good, some bad.


The first stop was the estate/tool sale of a diesel and tractor mechanic who was also a model railroad fan. Family run, they knew what they had but were looking to get rid of things. Lots of cool stuff, but apparently the guy was a Huskey fan, so not too much that I was looking for. I did, however, manage to find a nice book on machine shop practices, a complete, albeit very dirty S-K tools ignition set, MAC and Indestro ratchets, a Wright socket, a weird little gauge for laying HO railroad track, and a complete plus extras set of chucking reamers, standard plus over and under. Not the greatest quality as they are imported, but more than adequate for my needs. All of that for $30.

The next stop had huge promises, but nothing I was interested in. Too bad, as it was a hoarders clearout, and things were going cheap.

After that I headed to another that had lots of promise, only to be underwhelmed with cheap K-Mart tools. I did however, manage to find these:

A full set of Starrett feeler stock, a Proto socket rail and a wire brush. Six fifty.

The next sale was a dude, and to add insult to injury, my barber was not there! So, on the way home I stopped at a TOO and picked up an almost complete set of Hawkins electrical manuals, missing the #2, which only set me back a couple of bucks.

 

[RTM]

The Blackhawk has thickness marking I've not notice before. The second pic shows 10 - 12 indicating the range .010 to .012.
Archive.org has an undated catalog (after 1963) with an artist rendering that shows this marking. The 1953 catalog rendering shows it with full decimals. I do like the fact that only the tips are ground to specs.

Those aren't ranges. The tip is the 0.010, the body is 0.012, used as a Go / No Go. I have one of those running around somewhere, but its badly pitted, not sure I'd trust if for serious work.

Mine is a Proto Feeler Gauge, Step Cut, part #000N

Here is their write up. (Top of 3rd page if it doesn’t take you there)

Proto Tools : Catalog 6120 : Proto Tool Co. : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

84 p., illus., 27.3 cm, trade catalog

archive.org

 

[c1504]

I went to a swap meet today and ended up with quite a bit of tools. The Proto board was the first buy of the day and set me back $45. The Plomb 3/4 ratchet was $15 and the 3/4 sockets were $5 each, as was the box. The plomb wrenches were $0.25 to $3 each and the wf ratchet was $0.50. I got five Proto la wrenches for some boards I have and three la 3/4 sockets. A large group of early Walden stuff, a bunch of Ace dies, and a Snap on t-handle were $1 for the lot. The Craftsman =v= combos had to be bought because the seller wouldn’t separate them from two of the Proto wrenches. The plate off of an fdc is just a fun wall hanger

 

[Old Radar]

Nice haul, c1504!

RTM--Thanks for the info, but I guess I don't understand the go-no-go in this sense. If whatever gap you are checking has a .002 tolerance and the appropriate feeler gauge gets in, is it good to go? What if the gap is wider than the appropriate gauge--how would you know unless you stepped up to the next size feeler? What type of things are we checking anyway?

 

[RTM]

There is a step about 1/2” in from the end. If you want 0.010, but no more than 0.011, the leading edge should go in, but when you hit the step, it should stop sliding. If you can get past the step, your gap is too large.

I would guess this stops you from needing to open up the next size up, slide out the small one, then try to hit the opening with the larger. If the smaller edge is aligned and going in, hitting or not hitting the step should be easier.

the actual uses I don’t know, just what I read in the Proto catalog

 

[Magnum440d100]

More freeway finds. Pittsburgh needle nose pliers and a Milwaukee bit with a 5/16” nut driver. (First pic).

Second pic is my setup I use at work (on the left) and the freeway find (on the right).

 

[Lesserstore]

I picked up this lot for $16 earlier today.

First pic: Proto ASD 15mm, Craftsman Professional (V^) 12mm Quick Wrench, Challenger 7/8, Williams 5/8, SK 3/4, and unknown USA 13mm combo wrenches.

Second pic: Dunlap 5/8x11/16, Riverside (D-I made) 9/16x5/8, wartime Bonney Bonaloy 5/8x11/16, and Williams 7/16x1/2 DBEs.

Third pic: wartime Blue Point 11/16x3/4, Craftsman -V- series 7x9mm (technically =V= series because the single line is used because of the small size), and MAC 3/8x7/16 DOEs.

Fourth pic: Crain carpet knife, Bonney ∆ RF23 refrigeration ratchet, Proto 3/8 T handle, Craftsman 1/2 center punch, General bit ratchet, and lastly a Vermont American (post 1974 Rosco purchase) Robertson #3 screwdriver.

 

[Provincial]

I attended the estate "Farm" sale that bmwrd0 reported on earlier. I got there about 20 minutes before opening time, and people were already loading up things. Some of the items shown in the Craigslist ad were gone. This was happening outside the building, and they were waiting for "the cashier" to arrive before unlocking the door. I was near the head of the line, and found some items I liked quite soon. One was a galvanized pail loaded with wrenches, with no pricing. I took the bucket to the cashier, who got a man to talk to me. He asked if $30.00 was too much? I said no, and we settled on that. I found a big plastic tub filled mostly with large P&C DBE wrenches which he priced at $20.00. From there I found more items and the total came to $83.50. I saw many P&C combination wrenches that I left behind because I already have multiples of most of them. A few were mixed in with the bundles I bought, but they were just incidental.


P&C round beam DBE's:
2248 1-7/16 x 1-1/2 (2)
2246 1-1/4 x 1-7/16 (2)
2244 1-1/4 x 1-3/8
2242 1-1/4 x 1-5/16
2240 1/1-16 x 1-1/4 (2)
2236 1-1/16 x 1-1/8 (2)
2234 7/8 x 1-1/16 (2)
2232 15/16 x 1" (2)
2228 3/4 x 7/8 (marked 3-4 and 7-8)
Bottom Row, left to right:
2918 Tappet 1/2 x 9/16
2916 Tappet 7-16 and 1-2
3209 3/8 ratchet (2)
2732 1" combo
2728 7/8 combo (2)
2724 3/4 combo
2722 11/16 combo
2718 9/16 combo
2832 DOE 15/16 x 1"
2829 DOE 13/16 x 7/8
2825 DOE 11/16 x 3/4
2820 DOE 9/16 x 5/8
2818 DOE 1/2 x 9/16
2522 DBE 5/8 x 11/16 (2)
2528 DBE 3/4 x 7/8
2532 DBE 15/16 x 1"


The Plomb pieces were:
Los Angeles 1130 DBE 9/16 x 5/8
USA:
WF83 DBE 3/4 x 7/8
1139 DBE 3/4 x 7/8
1139 DBE 13/16 x 7/8 (This appears to be salvaged at the factory by broaching the small end to 13/16. It should have been 3/4, and the 3/4 is overstamped with 13/16.
1140 DBE 13/16 x 7/8
3035 DOE 11/16 x 3/4
5467 1/2 dr. hinge handle
5449 1/2 dr. Pebble ratchet
5414 1/2 dr. 12 pt socket 7/16
3430 Tappet 9/16 x 5/8 (2)
3426 Tappet 1/2 x 9/16


Crescent and Barcalo:
Crescent DOE's
15/16 x 1"
3/4 x 7/8
25/32 x 13/16
19/32 x 11/16
Barcalo DOE 5/8 x 3/4
Barcalo combo 3/4 (this one is interesting. Almost a "scoop", so they were transitioning)
Barcalloy combo 7/16


Here is the Proto USA:
Tubing wrenches:
3757 3/4 (2)
3756 11/16
3755 5/8
3754 9/16
6541 Distributor Wrench 9/16
6126 combo 13/16
1220 Professional combo 5/8
1218 Professional combo 9/16
1216 Professional combo 1/2 (2)
5450 Long 1/2 dr. ratchet
5257-4 Long 3/8 dr. ratchet, flex
36 3/8" angle screwdriver
5728 short DOE 13/16 x 7/8
3039 DOE 3/4 x 13/16
3038 DOE 25/32 x 13/16

More to come in the next post!