2022 Garage Sale Thread

[mikeinri]

I'll let this play out a little more...

He's playing US, I knew it...

Mike

 

[Outlawmws]

I can't say what I might have picked. but I can say what I might have picked up to inspect..

The Cable cutters
Pliers under them
The Blue box thing (What is it?)
The red grip tool to its right, and the "something" on top of that. (rusty flip lever contraption)
Nippers in the shadow with the tool forged ends
Both guitars
Plane
Bolt cutters
Mag light
Knives and Crescent top mid
Tin Snips by the guitar
Amber drivers and small hammer
Sockets in the loop
Staple gun in case it was an oddball
Hack Saw
Something half under the level between the hack saw adn bolt cutters

Not a brass hose nozzle or lantern to be seen...

 

[Outlawmws]

I noticed that "Parrot Beak" tool but didn't know what it was. Now that we know they're cutters, what is the idea behind or benefit of the curved head?

So you can reach and "hook" barbed wire with less exposure risk.

 

[glenmore]

Those are WW11 barbed wire cutters, I guess carried by infantrymen.

 

[glenmore]

Picked up something interesting besides the routine Plomb and Proto.
Looks like a tool for knurling.
Makers mark is "Horia" which gives you a clue as to where it might be used. Has something to do with watch or clock making.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

what is the idea behind or benefit of the curved head

It is indeed for hooking wire, but also for pulling staples in bound wire.

Those are WW11 barbed wire cutters, I guess carried by infantrymen

Perhaps you missed me ID them by model number and date...

The M-1938 "Parrot-Beak" wire cutters are H.K. Porter, marked "U.S." and "HKP 1945". I have a 1943, too.

You will also see them, though less frequently, made by Schollhorn. Issued to Infantry but also Corps of Engineers.

 

[3baygarage]

It was a great day for vintage. A good amount of modern stuff too. The rains came down during prime flea time and I thought it would be a wash out, but they ended quick, making for a good day after all.

A variety including Williams, Vulcan, Snap-On, New Britain,Husky, Mac, Proto, S-K, Craftsman, Blue-Points. Nice Plomb and Wright 3/8 breaker bars with extension handle, an Ampro plier and Berylco wrench, Mossberg speeder and ratchet, short dbe’s by Vanadium Tool and Herbrand, two real early Cornwell sockets.

There’s also a catch of the day in there of you can spot it!

 

[3baygarage]

A few Snap On drivers.

Also some unique wood handle and other drivers. Not sure on the one with black braiding and the one with a swirled handle. Stevens NY radio nut driver, Fulton chisel, Goodell Pratt bearing scraper, Irwin screw starter.

The Multicolor screwdriver, I used to see those at the old estate sales sometimes. Were those handles a school shop project?

punches and chisels are Snap On, Blue Point, Union, Starrett, Mach Prod. Co., and H-P Tool.

 

[3baygarage]

Everyone needs a Polish combo wrench. Ten on one end and thirteen on the other end. Heck, a great Polka could come from this one if I show the right people..

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I don't know about catch of the day, which is subjective, but I like the BeCu slip joints and the long reach midget speeder.

 

[3baygarage]

I was joking about the NewLobster adjustable wrench. I think the SO midget speeder with the knob is the first I’ve encountered in the wild.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I was joking about the NewLobster adjustable wrench.

Doh! Haha.

I think the SO midget speeder with the knob is the first I’ve encountered in the wild

Yeah, terrific find.

 

[3baygarage]

My favorite find of the day was the very last. I peeked under a regular‘s table to find a large red plastic Milwaukee case slightly open. This tray was inside, after weeding out the junk.
I recognized the spring u joint immediately.

Part of a Bog set, a bunch of early Snap-On, and some others.

 

[jeffmoss26]

Nice yale padlock!

 

[Old Radar]

Okay, since there seems to be some interest in this, let me take it step by step.

• There is no date data on the labels of the quart jug or on the jug itself—at least that I can interpret.
• E-R is claimed to have an indefinite shelf life.
• David Harris invented the stuff in 2000 and won the R&D 100 Award in 2001.
• Supposition: I agree with RTM that they would have used the R&D award reference on the label for only a year or two.

Given that, I’m willing to believe this quart may be around 20 years old.

OR,
Just curious. What’s your cleaning plan? All into evaporust? Something similar? E tank?

Forrest asked this question while I was conducting a little experiment using a fresh batch of E-R, my Vintage batch and some white vinegar. I didn’t think to use my E-tank at the same time, so that will have to wait.

The Liquids Before:

This is before I even labeled the paper. Fresh E-R / Vintage E-R / Vinegar
The vintage E-R is cloudy but clean. Since the jug was open, my theory is it may have been tried once but since it was completely full, maybe not. The cloudiness could be the result of age or having been previously frozen.

The Rusty Sockets Before:

Three Long C Craftsman and what I thought were three Snap-ons. After the pre-soak wire brushing, the middle one turned out not to be SO but had an SR inside a rectangle, so I substituted another SO for consistency. RagTopTA asked about it so I included a pre-soak close-up--and yes, it's a 1/4d 11/32. Tell me what you know about it, RT.

After 4 hours they all still needed some more work.



After 8 hours I pulled them out and called it. What I called it was a three way tie. At least I don't see any discernible difference in the results.



So to answer Forrest, since I have it (and I doubt it would be a hot item on ebay), I'll use the vintage Evapo-Rust for smaller items until it stops working.
Even though vinegar is a little harsher, with these results I'm not sure E-R is worth the added expense. E-R $9/qt, Vinegar $0.25/qt.

 

[Outlawmws]

With vinegar you do need to neutralize the parts after the soak. It is in fact an acid, and can continue to eat in.

You also have to not soak and forget - Drive once forgot a VISE in a bucket of vinegar - when he finally remembered, it was junk.

Another rust eater that is VERY iron/steel safe is phosphoric acid, it will eat the rust, but not the steel or iron. Its not necessarily safe for other metals/materials. I used to use Jasco metal etch. - Not sure if CA has also proscribed this...

 

[mikeinri]

@Old Radar Great experiment, interesting results!

@Outlawmws Does phosphoric acid eat chrome and/or paint too?

Mike

 

[Outlawmws]

Probably. do some research. I only ever use it for bare steel/iron.

 

[RagTopTA]

Some of you may remember I played a "Where's Waldo?" game last year, showing typical flea market table photos and asking people to guess what I bought. So here's the RagTopTA Variation.

Before I show what I picked, go ahead and tell me, "What would YOU pick?"

Absolutely love this idea! we should all do this once in a while when we find an interesting table. It'll kinda of teach us more about each other : ) Im making my post right now! up in a few!

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I recognized the spring u joint immediately.

Hmm, well I have to take back what I've been saying for months now. I had no idea Bog made a uni joint like that. The only time I have ever seen a coil spring on a uni joint was in Tona sets made in Czechoslovakia. In fact, I thought it was unique to them, rather fascinating and mystifying at the same time. What's the purpose? To give it a little stiffness? My Tona set has a hard rubber tube around the uni joint, but you can't use it with it on there. It's just to keep it in place in the box. So I've always wondered about the Tona sets with coils instead, and figured it was the same purpose. But I was just telling Honza Vosalik that it was unique to Tona, and not something vintage US mfgrs were doing. I guess I was wrong.

 

[RagTopTA]

Lugz, here are my picks! Def the football and Tee because I don't currently own one. And you don't know how much you really enjoy getting out there and throwing a football back and forth until you get out there and do it! Those weird-shaped heavy-duty type of sheet metal tool pliers... I always loo kat those to see if it may be something I don't have and may need or want. The wooden-handled item looks like a valve tool? Lock cutters are always a good buy! Looks like a long prybar in the back!! Possibly the hack saw depending on the brand. Electricians have a favorite one that they consider the holy grail. I sold one at my last garage sale to a guy for a dollar. I didn't know what it was really. He told me a little about it and could barely contain the excitement on his face, So I was happy to sell it to him. Love this idea btw!

 

[3baygarage]

I must have missed that discussion with Honza about the spring joints but yes I would say it's for being stiff while flexible.
All the old timey joints were just sloppy jalopy, and many from the vintage but not antique era just flop over too.
I thought there was a Bog on AA but perhaps not. I know I've seen them on the past, that's how I recognized it. I'll have to add another picture later show how the factory made it. I wonder about a patent.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Here's what I picked (Lugz 2022_9)

The M-1938 "Parrot-Beak" wire cutters are H.K. Porter, marked "U.S." and "HKP 1945". I have a 1943, too.

The nippers with the nail puller and pry bar handle ends are pre-PEXTO "PS&W Co" marked Peck, Stow, and Wilcox.

The parrot beak pliers were the weird pliers I was talking about, and yes, the the valve lapping tool was the funky manual screw driver/drill thingy I was talking about..lol I didn’t see the plunger end so I thought It might have been a drill.

 

[Old Radar]

With vinegar you do need to neutralize the parts after the soak. It is in fact an acid, and can continue to eat in.

You also have to not soak and forget - Drive once forgot a VISE in a bucket of vinegar - when he finally remembered, it was junk.

Another rust eater that is VERY iron/steel safe is phosphoric acid, it will eat the rust, but not the steel or iron. Its not necessarily safe for other metals/materials. I used to use Jasco metal etch. - Not sure if CA has also proscribed this...

You do need to rinse after vinegar, but it's a non-issue--you need to scrub the black residue off so I do it under running water, same as Evapo-Rust.

Very true about not leaving your items in vinegar longer than needed to do the job.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I thought there was a Bog on AA but perhaps not. I know I've seen them on the past, that's how I recognized it. I'll have to add another picture later show how the factory made it. I wonder about a patent.

Oh, I'm all ears now because, like I said, I though the Tona uni joints were unique.

I didn’t see the plunger end so I thought It might have been a drill.

No worries. You know me pretty well for a new guy! (Unless you've been lurking. Or am I just too predictable?! HAHA)

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Love this idea btw!

It was yours! I just combined it with something I did last year.

 

[LesserSon]

OR
I think the cloudiness may be the result of bacteria feeding on whatever big organics the reactive metalics are attached to.

 

[RagTopTA]

It was yours! I just combined it with something I did last year.

That could be a cool part of this thread and keep us all learning things if people are interested in doing it. I know I'm going to do this from time to time also! : ) To be honest, this thread is where I have learned more information than anywhere. It really is an amazing place with an untold wealth of knowledge. Not just about tools, but many, many things. You just never know if we have a barber chair expert... until one is posted... then Bam! someone blindsided us with tons of great info! Love how it works in here.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

The '45 parrot beaks (shown with my '42 for RAS61) and carpenters' pincers cleaned up well. More pics on the HKP and PEXTO threads down on the VB.

 

[Old Radar]

OR
I think the cloudiness may be the result of bacteria feeding on whatever big organics the reactive metalics are attached to.

Well, okay. That's another theory. I'm not a microbiologist, but after 20 years or so, who knows?

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Love how it works in here.

Always been my favorite thread. For the knowledge, the camaraderie, and maybe especially because there's never any ******* ego--******* contests or pseudo-political shenanigans. It does move fast and high level, and when spring and summer come, it moves even faster and more high level, and I DO need my slow down deep detail dives down on the VB. But I always start here.

I think games are good from time to time. You may not know I run a funny quiz from time to time down on the VB too. When they start interrupting, we'll get steamrolled by all the big hauls! 'GET OUT OF THE WAY WITH YOUR SILLY GAMES. I'VE GOT a BIG LOAD TO POST!'

 

[mikeinri]

Not a smoking deal but good enough for me to pull the trigger. I bought the line wrenches for $80. I actually like this style best. Once I have the fastener loose I switch ends instead of grabbing another wrench. The SO ratchet I gave 75 for but I don't think it's hardly been used.

The little Matco Wright made ratchet was the deal of the day. I gave $5 for it because it was free wheeling but I had a feeling it was just full of dirt and dried grease. I disassembled the ratchet complete, cleaned and oil it and put it back together. It has a little slop but I stuck the avil in the vise and it didn't slip so good enough.

I doubt I'd spring $80 for those combination tubing wrenches, but they are really cool and I never knew they existed!

Mike

 

[mikeinri]

OR
I think the cloudiness may be the result of bacteria feeding on whatever big organics the reactive metalics are attached to.

Well, okay. That's another theory. I'm not a microbiologist, but after 20 years or so, who knows?

I WAS a microbiologist (too many years ago), but my first thought was a chemical reaction between the Evaporust and the air in the bottle (oxidation, probably).

But, I'm not a chemist and have never used Evaporust, so don't believe any of that!

Mike

 

[Mgdoug3]

I use line wrenches often working on tractors so $80 didn't seem too bad. I did end up giving the 7/16 and 1/2" to my uncle because I had multiples already. $8/ wrench seemed cheap enough to me.

 

[Outlawmws]

I like the one size, one end flair wrenches. I know what you mean about a time saver. Not sure I'd spring at 80 for the set, but I don't use them all the time either, so it's just not a big factor for me. A steal 'em deal? You bet!

 

[mikeinri]

I mainly use those for working on vehicle brake systems, none of my tractors have hydraulics. But if I did upgrade to a bigger tractor, that $80 would look MUCH more attractive!

Mike

 

[RTM]

RTM, looks like a nice vintage craftsman ratchet, Nice find there !
It looks like a thin head style.

Thanks. I dunno about thin. Its 6/10" thick, no Quick Release for the ratchet. =V= code, no number, oil port on top. The reversing lever works a little stiff, so a quick cleaning is in its future. Seems similar in size to my 44975 1/2" ratchets, but I've never thought about which ones have the QR.

 

[txlonghorn1989]

Corndog NOS Delta machine parts are not that uncommon. LOTS of those machines were sold and I'd bet many, maybe most, are still running. Four of my Delta woodworking machines are from the 1940s. My 14" bandsaw is a 1956, the baby of the family! You really done good!

 

[txlonghorn1989]

Wire cutters.


Not quite there yet. And it isn't going to be a store front, but a booth at an antique mall. I have a major undertaking in the spring that I need to complete first (driving from Oregon to NYC to visit my son) and after that it's Game On!

I count a booth at an antique mall like a store front. Enjoy that trip to see your son.

 

[txlonghorn1989]

Some of you may remember I played a "Where's Waldo?" game last year, showing typical flea market table photos and asking people to guess what I bought. So here's the RagTopTA Variation.

Before I show what I picked, go ahead and tell me, "What would YOU pick?"

I'll play. First, I would have picked up that smoothing plane and probably put it back down. Doesn't look like a Stanley. Second, probably the wood handle screwdriver and third that fiberglass ball peen hammer. The screwdriver is likely the only one that would have come home with me though.