20x40 shop

[Alaska_guy]

Looking to build a 20x40 shop and was wondering how to get lumber costs.

Walls 14'
Engineered trusses
10x12 garage door
3 windows up high on each side of the 40' length for a total of 6 windows 2x4 windows.
1 man door on the right hand front side of shop.
30 year architectural shingles.
T1-11 siding and lap siding up front where garage door resides.

2x6 construction, would a 6/12 pitch be too much or should I go 4/12 pitch?

I got a quote for 45k for a 20x30 with specs above and a monolithic slab pour. Seems like I could do it cheaper by 15k?

 

[firebirdparts]

Simple little building like that, just make a few sketches and list the material yourself. That’s what I did anyway.

 

[WisJim]

Around me, in Western Wisconsin in a small city, I would sketch a simple plan and the specs you have posted here and take them into a local lumber yard and ask for a quote on materials. Most real lumber yards would do that and also come up with a fair price on the whole package. Or you could draw up plans showing all the materials and go on line and look up prices for everything.

 

[Alaska_guy]

Thanks,

I used this as a rough guide... Am I missing anything else big? I know I will need screws, roof paper and other small items... But I feel this is way too cheap.

2x6 studs = 132 studs, $12/ea = $1584
Wall Sheeting = 53 sheets, $94.00/ea = $4982
Shingles = 12 bundles $36.48/ea = $437.76
Trusses = 21 $100/ea = $2100
3/4" Plywood Roof Sheeting = 34 sheets $40/ea = $1360

Total: $10,463.76

Building Materials Calculator - Generation Building Center

We can help you assemble a material list with our building materials calculator

www.generationhbc.com

I was quoted 10k for a 30x40 slab last year, so with this only being a 20x40 I know that's going to be cheaper... So roughly 20k?? Seems way too cheap for a 20x40 shop?

I have a 50k budget and I am trying to get as big of a shop as possible with that 50k. I can't go bigger than 20' wide due to property lines. however, I could go as big as 60' long if budget allowed.

 

[firebirdparts]

Well, you’re wrong in the shingles, I think. If it’s asphalt anyway, it’ll be either 25 or 33 square feet to a bundle. You’ll need some more lumber, top and bottom plate material.

Frame buildings are really cheap. It’s not unreasonable to me. What kind of wall sheeting is that?

 

[Alaska_guy]

T1-11 Sheeting for walls. What should I be looking at for shingles? Thanks again!

 

[rslaback]

It won't be perfect for you (for example, it only allows 12' walls) but Menards has an online design aid that will get you pretty close to the right cut list and price.

Garage

designit.menards.com

 

[firebirdparts]

What kind of shingles do folks use in Alaska? My comment was just about how much area is covered by “a bundle” but of course it depends on what you are buying.

That siding is kinda nice in that it is big and heavy and also designed to be the finished surface. I thought it was a little pricey at half your estimate but I guess it’s worth it.

When I built my shop, 30 by 30, the frame part materials cost about 5 grand but that was 20 years ago.

 

[MegaVan]

There is a lot of stuff that will nickle and dime you to death.

Roof underlayment. Drip edge. Trim (around here 1x material is more expensive than 2x material). Doors and windows that you want to add (didn't see any on your estimate).

I'd add 10-20% on top of what you have listed just to make sure you're covered on these type items. Also double check concrete costs. I believe they've been varying wildly the last few years.

 

[paredown]

There is a lot of stuff that will nickle and dime you to death.

Roof underlayment. Drip edge. Trim (around here 1x material is more expensive than 2x material). Doors and windows that you want to add (didn't see any on your estimate).

I'd add 10-20% on top of what you have listed just to make sure you're covered on these type items. Also double check concrete costs. I believe they've been varying wildly the last few years.

Yes.

Man door, large door, windows (?), hardware for the same and openers can be pretty expensive. Even wiring (just a simple connection) will add up pretty fast, especially if you have to hire it out.

 

[jasondavidmann]

My shop is 20x40x12, I built it only a few years ago and DIYed as much as possible. I was just over $50K CAD. You can view the build thread in my signature.

 

[Bill T]

I will throw my two cents in about windows. First, I live in a nice subdivision (not where you typically worry about crime). I have lived at this address for 34 years. My house has been broken into twice. Each time the thieves broke a window to enter. When I built my shop (2400 sq. feet) I did not use any windows. My shop is primarily used for automotive restoration hobby plus I have macine tools. I have a fairly complete machine shop. I say this not to brag about what I have, but, just to say that tooling for lathes and mills is very expensive. I have never gone into my shop to work without turning on the lights. Windows are great opportunities for amateur thieves to break into your building. You can not keep out a pro thief. Just protect yourself from crack and meth heads. If you always turn the lights on anyway, why put in windows.
I put in all metal doors. In the door jamb, I reinforced the area adjacent to the deadbolt and door knob with 1/4" plate. At least twice, I have found dented areas on my doors where someone has tried to break in, all I had were a few dents in my door.
I used 3/4" T1-11 siding on my shop. I used constuction adhesive on avery stud and used screw nails when I installed the siding. I did this mainly to stifen the building against racking, but it helps in security. The only way to get in my shop is basically a chainsaw. Hopefully between having good neighbors and a security system, my stuff is semi safe.
P.S. I have a 4' ventilation fan with automatic louvers in the gable of my shop on the wall opposite the end with the entry and garage doors. To get a breeze, I just turn on the fan (2 speed) to draw air in through my screen door.

 

[Wolley]

7/16 osb wall sheathing and board siding might save you some if you can get rough sawn lumber cheap

 

[Alaska_guy]

My shop is 20x40x12, I built it only a few years ago and DIYed as much as possible. I was just over $50K CAD. You can view the build thread in my signature.

Was that with insulation, drywall, lights, electrical etc? I was being quoted 45k for a 20x30 shell. No insulation, drywall etc.

 

[Natty Bumppo]

I DIY'd my 25x35 over the course of 3 years...did everything myself but pour the cement pad. I have $40 invested...that's 100% turn key; electric, cabinets, insulation, finished interior, deck to 2nd floor attic space, and a used 2 post lift.

Build thread: 25x35 Garage

 

[jasondavidmann]

Was that with insulation, drywall, lights, electrical etc? I was being quoted 45k for a 20x30 shell. No insulation, drywall etc.

That is with everything, all the way from having grass in the yard to pain on the walls. Remember that this is DIY everything, I think I have less than $2000 labour paid total. It is all in my build thread.

 

[sonoronos]

If you are sensitive to cost, I'm surprised you haven't considered a bolt together steel building.

Nice windows, residential roofing, residential insulation, stud framing, sheathing, drywall...forget the materials. Your cost is going to be in the labor.

 

[finn]

Make a sketch of the proposed building then develop a material list.

Go to the Menards web site and the price of every screw board, door, shingle, etc on that list is right there on their site. Add another 10% for waste and omissions to the number you come up with.

Years ago, when I built my garage, we figured the labor cost was about the same as the material cost. Things have changed, but that’s probably still a good starting point.

Alternatively, just go to the Menards site and use their planning software to spec out a building. It will spit out a cost estimate.

 

[Alaska_guy]

If you are sensitive to cost, I'm surprised you haven't considered a bolt together steel building.

Nice windows, residential roofing, residential insulation, stud framing, sheathing, drywall...forget the materials. Your cost is going to be in the labor.

The metal buildings here are more expensive or just as much as a wood building. Using Menards link looks like 18k would get me a nice building with vinyl siding at 24x40.

Garage

designit.menards.com

314956312940

 

[u2slow]

Once I learned that my builder charged approx $1000 each for basic windows... I dialed that way back. I got one window; total.

If you are sensitive to cost, I'm surprised you haven't considered a bolt together steel building.

Pre-fab steel building have other associated costs, many hidden. Extra site engineering and freight come to mind.

Had I gone steel, I would have prepaid for a building, and not enough money for concrete, because the site prep was double the work/cost forecasted.