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21' x 27' Garage Lighting Plan

huntfish4ever

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Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Messages
7
I have seen a few threads with some great advice on lighting plans. So I thought I would go ahead and post my to get any advice or critiquing before I dive into the installation.

Garage is 21x27 (measured at the interior side of the walls). Each square of the grid represents 6". 9' ceiling which will get sheetrock (is not currently). Plans are for twelve 4' Double bulb T8 light fixtures. Sub panel already in garage so dedicated circuit is not a problem. Three switched zones (reflected by the different color shaded areas).

The dotted line is the overhead door when in an open position.

Everything is pretty much uniformly centered, except the two right hand corners (to prevent obstruction by the overhead door). Based on some of the things I have read, I am toying with the idea about moving the outside rows closer to the outside walls. Thoughts? I probably will be installing a shelf completely around the perimeter of the garage within a couple feet of the ceiling, which may be a reason to leave them where they are shown on the plan.

Things may get moved around, but I usually park a 1/2 ton pickup on one side and mower and Atv on the other (pickup ends up being closer to the center of the garage). No plans for any permanently mounted work benches as of right now.

Thanks for ANY thoughts, concerns, or recommendations.

GarageLightingPlan.jpg
 
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2ManyProjects

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Jul 18, 2013
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I have seen a few threads with some great advice on lighting plans. So I thought I would go ahead and post my to get any advice or critiquing before I dive into the installation.

Always a good (or at least prudent) idea.

Garage is 21x27 (measured at the interior side of the walls). Each square of the grid represents 6". 9' ceiling which will get sheetrock (is not currently). Plans are for twelve 4' Double bulb T8 light fixtures.

That works out to about 118 source lumens/ft.^2, with fresh tubes, which should be just about perfect in terms of overall brightness levels. However, you will PROBABLY want to implement the switching to provide somewhat more granular control than what you show. More on that later.

Sub panel already in garage so dedicated circuit is not a problem.

As long as you have plenty of open breaker slots, make that TWO dedicated circuits. Not because the load is all that great (24 tubes at a nominal 32 watts each is only 768 watts, +/- the ballast factors); but because IF one breaker trips (or needs to be shut down for maintenance), you won't be left completely in the dark.

Three switched zones (reflected by the different color shaded areas).

In a relatively small shop/garage such as yours, zoning is usually less useful than being able to granularly control the brightness level throughout the space. Ideally, you'll want three switch banks ("per zone", if still doing zoning): The first switch will control some minimal number (probably 1-3 in a space that size) of fixtures, and comprise your "walk through" lighting; optionally, these can also be triggered by your garage door opener(s). Switch #2 will control perhaps 35-40% or so of the remaining fixtures; and in combination with the walk-through lights, will provide adequate illumination for "casual" work anywhere in the space. Finally, Switch #3 controls the remaining 60-65% or so of the fixtures, and is used by itself when you want that "just a little more" light, and in combination with both of the other banks when you want maximum brightness for critical and/or fine detail work. By setting things up in this manner, you have at least FOUR different illumination levels to choose from, as appropriate for whatever you'll be doing in that space at the time.

Everything is pretty much uniformly centered, except the two right hand corners (to prevent obstruction by the overhead door). Based on some of the things I have read, I am toying with the idea about moving the outside rows closer to the outside walls. Thoughts?

Well... You're currently showing three of the four lights in each row as four feet off the sidewalls, with the other one less than a 1.5 feet off the walls. Neither is horrible; but normally, you'd ideally want something in between these two extremes. However, this presumes such things as workbenches, wall cabinets, and/or other wall-hung storage. And since you don't yet know most your plans for those things, it is difficult to predict.

I probably will be installing a shelf completely around the perimeter of the garage within a couple feet of the ceiling, which may be a reason to leave them where they are shown on the plan.

Depends in part on the depth of the shelf. Obviously, the lights should NOT be blocked by the shelf; and in order to illuminate the shelf itself well, the lights should be at least a foot or so away from it (more, really, given the end-to-end gaps between the fixtures you're showing). Bottom Line: IF you do put up such a shelf, keep it relatively narrow. You probably don't want to be hefting big heavy items up that high anyway.

Things may get moved around, but I usually park a 1/2 ton pickup on one side and mower and Atv on the other (pickup ends up being closer to the center of the garage). No plans for any permanently mounted work benches as of right now.

Thanks for ANY thoughts, concerns, or recommendations.

Hmmmm... I'm less concerned with "parking" as with what sort of work you plan to be doing in that space. With no plans for a workbench, I suspect the answer to that may well be "Not much" -- in which case, even 118 lumens/ft.^2 is serious overkill. If all you're concerned about is seeing well enough to move stored items about, etc., even half of that will be plenty. OTOH, getting truly EVEN illumination with less than the twelve fixtures you're already showing could be problematic. Dropping back to single-tube strips might be a workable solution; but it won't save you much/any money except in operating costs

Also, these are the lights that I am planning to use...

Standard-issue twin-tube open strip fixtures.

They'll work OK for you; and thousands of folks have satisfactorily used them for similar purposes. But if you want to "dress things up" some. AND aid light dispersion/diffusion a bit in the process, consider something like:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-2-Light-Utility-Light-3348-2L32W-WRAP/100654395
92eeea00-35d4-4de6-9cd6-11e57dd051fc_300.jpg


They're cheap; they look half-decent; they can be strung together in more-or-less continuous "strips" when appropriate; and the polycarbonate lens both helps to evenly distribute the light and provides some impact protection. There's also a matching two-foot version:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia...hite-Fluorescent-Light-Fixture-3324/202192968
39000172-ebf4-4c9c-8544-fe78d1fd119c_300.jpg


if you need to fit into really tight spots, or fill out a specific-length run.

 
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huntfish4ever

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THANK YOU for your analysis and thoughts. The garage will be used for oil changes, car/truck/boat/atv/mower maintenance, cleaning deer, processing meat, drinking beer, and whatever else may need to be done out there ;-)

After reading your comments I revised the plan. I moved the outside lights just a little closer to the outside walls (6"), and moved the two corners lights closer to the overhead door. Seems like a pretty good compromise, especially considering the upper perimeter shelf. I added a line where I think the perimeter shelving will be (approximately 18" wide and 20" from the ceiling. I also changed the lighting circuits to reflect more of the granular control you talked about.

You mentioned something about the spacing between the ends of the lights. I did this thinking it would more evenly distribute the light with the number of fixtures available. Would you install the fixtures end to end and have larger spaces at each end? Originally I thoughts of two continuous rows of 6 fixtures each, but switched to three rows more spaced out to try and distribute light better.

The 5' "door opening" shown near the bottom adjoins another 2 stall garage used only for parking the wife's car and less important misc. Tool boxes and floor shelving will go along the wall just to the left of the 5' opening, and the main "foot traffic" will be from that opening, along that bottom left hand corner, and to the exterior door located on the left side of the plan as that is where the wall switches for all 3 light circuits will be. A three way lighting circuit will exist on the circuit with only two light to illuminate this area from the other adjoining garage.

Thanks again!

GarageLightingPlan2.jpg
 
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2ManyProjects

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Messages
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THANK YOU for your analysis and thoughts. The garage will be used for oil changes, car/truck/boat/atv/mower maintenance, cleaning deer, processing meat, drinking beer, and whatever else may need to be done out there ;-)

Sounds fairly typical. ;)

After reading your comments I revised the plan. I moved the outside lights just a little closer to the outside walls (6"), and moved the two corners lights closer to the overhead door. Seems like a pretty good compromise, especially considering the upper perimeter shelf. I added a line where I think the perimeter shelving will be (approximately 18" wide and 20" from the ceiling.

All in all, that's definitely an improvement over "Version 1.0". However, I think it can still be tweaked a bit... The first thing I'll throw out there for you to think about is: There's no rule which says that all the lights must be oriented in the same direction; and typically, there are good reasons to NOT do so.

I also changed the lighting circuits to reflect more of the granular control you talked about.

That's also an improvement. But consider for a moment mixing things up even more. With relatively few fixtures to work with, you can't get TOO carried away with this; but for example, suppose the center fixtures in each of the pink/beige sections were made part of the "green" bank. Alternately, perhaps the "end" fixtures in each of those sections become "blue", leaving just the middle pink/beige ones as your "walk through" lights (yeah, one of them would be blocked by the door when open; but that's no big deal). Either way, your overall coverage of the space when using only some of the lighting banks would improve.

You mentioned something about the spacing between the ends of the lights. I did this thinking it would more evenly distribute the light with the number of fixtures available. Would you install the fixtures end to end and have larger spaces at each end?

No. That would surely result in those uncovered areas at each end of the runs being TOO large. As a practical matter, the only way to reduce those end-to-end gaps is to use more fixtures.

Originally I thoughts of two continuous rows of 6 fixtures each, but switched to three rows more spaced out to try and distribute light better.

That was near-certainly the right call. But you could use, for example, runs of five fixtures along each side wall (top & bottom in your sketch), complemented by additional fixtures running perpendicular to these along the third wall and somewhere in the middle of the space. I haven't worked out the exact spacing or fixture count; but you get the idea.

The 5' "door opening" shown near the bottom adjoins another 2 stall garage used only for parking the wife's car and less important misc.

OK. But let's set that other garage aside for now, since, as you say, it is relatively unimportant. However, one rather relevant thing this DOES tell us is, the space we are primarily concerning ourselves with here is more of a work/play area, than a utilitarian day-to-day car-parking facility. Hence, there can be somewhat more justification for going into "moderate overkill mode", if you will, and/or doing things in a nicer (if not really required) way, "just because".

Tool boxes and floor shelving will go along the wall just to the left of the 5' opening, and the main "foot traffic" will be from that opening, along that bottom left hand corner, and to the exterior door located on the left side of the plan as that is where the wall switches for all 3 light circuits will be. A three way lighting circuit will exist on the circuit with only two light to illuminate this area from the other adjoining garage.

And here is a perfect opportunity to go the "moderate overkill" route I just spoke of. Instead of limiting yourself to conventional "1-way" and "3-way" switching, consider going with an Insteon system, with a multi-button keypad similar to:

http://www.smarthome.com/2487S/Keyp...pad-with-On-Off-Switch-Dual-Band-White/p.aspx
2487sbig.jpg


located near each and every possible entry point. (Given the 16'-wide overhead door, that probably means one on each side of it, plus one near each service door.)

This will not only give you much more convenient control over EVERYTHING, from anywhere you might conceivably want/need it; it will also provide a lot more potential flexibility in terms of assigning particular fixtures to various "lighting scenes". Part of the reason for this is that any given load/fixture can be a part of MULTIPLE scenes, if you like.

Food for thought, and all that.

 
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scott750

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And here is a perfect opportunity to go the "moderate overkill" route I just spoke of. Instead of limiting yourself to conventional "1-way" and "3-way" switching, consider going with an Insteon system, with a multi-button keypad similar to:

http://www.smarthome.com/2487S/Keyp...pad-with-On-Off-Switch-Dual-Band-White/p.aspx
2487sbig.jpg


located near each and every possible entry point. (Given the 16'-wide overhead door, that probably means one on each side of it, plus one near each service door.)

This will not only give you much more convenient control over EVERYTHING, from anywhere you might conceivably want/need it; it will also provide a lot more potential flexibility in terms of assigning particular fixtures to various "lighting scenes". Part of the reason for this is that any given load/fixture can be a part of MULTIPLE scenes, if you like.

Food for thought, and all that.


That looks like an awesome idea! One switch to rule them all. But looking at their website, they don't really explain how to hook up all 5 zones. Their wiring diagram only shows 1 Line and 1 Load. I would have expected to see the 4 Loads or something. And how does it control "other rooms" in the house like the description states?

2487sside1big.jpg
 

2ManyProjects

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That looks like an awesome idea! One switch to rule them all. But looking at their website, they don't really explain how to hook up all 5 zones. Their wiring diagram only shows 1 Line and 1 Load. I would have expected to see the 4 Loads or something. And how does it control "other rooms" in the house like the description states?

The key thing to understand about an Insteon system is that the device issuing the commands (such as that keypad) does NOT necessarily connect to the device actually receiving those commands and controlling the load. Refer in particular to this post:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3404964&postcount=28

...where I explained in semi-gory detail how it all works. I went into some additional detail (on wiring techniques in particular) here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3313737&postcount=38

And here is a smattering of the different possible bits of hardware you could use:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3490423&postcount=3

(Obviously, you will not need ALL of these; but the point is, the system is so flexible that the possibilities are nearly endless.)

 

Kevin C

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Location
Portland OR
I have a 24' x 26' garage with 11 evenly spaced double bulb T8's ~ about 110 lumens per sq ft. The light level is good, although I could easily add more to compensate for aging eyes.

I went fancy and put in three lighting zones. In retrospect, that was over kill. It's not that big a room, I always end up turning all the lights one. Two zones would have easily covered it. Even then, its weird to have a dark section in a small shop, and the reflected light from the far ends of the shop reduces shadows.

For low level lighting, the garage door openers each have two bulbs and are motion activated.

All of my lights have pull chains.... Easy option for local control. With the diffuser, the effective light per fixture will probably be off by at least 10% ( compared to the open bulb / reflector fixtures I am using).
 

scott750

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Joined
Jun 17, 2011
Messages
50
Location
Austin, TX
The key thing to understand about an Insteon system is that the device issuing the commands (such as that keypad) does NOT necessarily connect to the device actually receiving those commands and controlling the load. Refer in particular to this post:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3404964&postcount=28

...where I explained in semi-gory detail how it all works. I went into some additional detail (on wiring techniques in particular) here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3313737&postcount=38

And here is a smattering of the different possible bits of hardware you could use:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3490423&postcount=3

(Obviously, you will not need ALL of these; but the point is, the system is so flexible that the possibilities are nearly endless.)


Ah now I see how it works. Thanks for posting those links. :)
 
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