216w Strip Light Okay?

[delirium330]

Hi all, new to the forum and working on some garage upgrades. I've got a new Lithonia 4 bulb strip light (T5) that comes to 216w total. I'm replacing a standard bulb ballast in the ceiling with this new one:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia...Light-TZ-2-54T5HO-MVOLT-1-4-GEB10PS/202665211

Okay to use the standard 120v romex line that was previously used on the old bulb to power this entire strip? I know the ballast on the one I'm replacing say not to exceed something like 100w, but I assume that is a ballast limitation? The only other bulb on this switch circuit is going to be 100w (a matching 2 bulb T5 strip light like the link above). So the entire circuit would be 316w I beleive. I also have some wire cages I'm going to put over these and am thinking about replacing the switch with a countdown timer switch:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046CF9IQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Anything I'm missing or any obvious issues?

Thanks for the help.

 

[pattenp]

If it is a 15 amp light circuit then you should be okay. That's the best I can say without knowing what else is on the circuit.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The timer needs a neutral. If the Romex® comes to the switch box, and then runs to the lights, you are OK, you can tie the timer neutral to the neutral in the switch box, however, if the power goes to the light fixture first, and the Romex® then runs down to the switch box, then the switch leg won't have a neutral in it (no matter what color wires you see in the switch box) (unless this is VERY NEW code compliant construction) and in this case the timer cannot be installed without pulling a new three wire switch leg (two for the switch leg and a neutral).

You can put at least 8 of those four bulb fixtures on a single 20 amp circuit (if the circuit is dedicated to the lights) without any problems.

Those fixtures get hot on top, I would install them with spacers between the fixture and the ceiling for cooling purposes. 156°F directly over the ballast in the housing, about 105°F along the remainder of the fixture.

Charles

 

[delirium330]

Thanks for the input. A few followup questions as I'm an amateur when it comes to electrical:

1. What is the best way to figure out what else is on this circuit? Or do I just give it a try and if it is overloaded it will trip the breaker?

2. Charles, when you say "spacers" does that mean hanging the light to create air between the drywall and the housing or is there is good material/product to wedge in there that you would suggest?

3. Regarding the timer, from what I can see it looks like the Romex stops at both of the light junction boxes (at least one is accessible in the attic that I looked at and I can confirm the other one when I pull the old light down), but is there any good way to figure out if the Romex runs from the switch to the lights? Or is that what I just did?

Again, pardon the ignorance...

 

[pattenp]

If you have more than one cable that enters the box at the switch then you should have a neutral that can be used. If you don't have a voltmeter or test light go out and buy one and check for power in the switch box.

 

[delirium330]

If you have more than one cable that enters the box at the switch then you should have a neutral that can be used. If you don't have a voltmeter or test light go out and buy one and check for power in the switch box.

I did a quick check and it looks like two Romex cables are exiting in the box (picture 1). I also took a picture of the existing junction box and light that I'm replacing for what it's worth.

Also, I think I got an answer to my question #2 from above from this other thread. I'm guessing the instructions will tell me not to surface mount so I'll either do a rigid bolt drop or a couple of inches hanging from chain. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120784

 

[delirium330]

Sorry for the double post, but quick update to close out the topic that the new switch went in today and works great. Lighting going up tomorrow. Thanks for the help.