22 x 22 garage

[awd_ftw]

hey guys, I just got my house built and moved in this past January. The garage will be done in June of this year due to the weather. The original garage was supposed to be a small 20 x 22 but I upgraded to a 22 x 22 x 8, 2x4 framing, 18 x 7 door. After reading on a few posts I feel I may outgrow it. I most likely won't get a boat, and the biggest vehicle I would purchase is a small suv like a rav4 calibre size.

With the build in June I still have a chance to upgrade but I can only upgrade either:

a.) make it 24 x 24
b.) keep 22 x22 but use 2 x 6 for better insulation in the future
c.) keep 22 x22 and add attic trusses for more storage

anyone with a similar size garage with no boat or huge truck outgrow their garage?

 

[ford33]

What do you plan to do or store in the garage? Where are you located?

If it is used for parking cars and storing garden tools that 22 x 22 would be fine. If you plan on working on cars or hobbies than the size is small. I had a similar size garage in a previous house. At the time, I wish the garage was larger.

You don't show your location. I cannot answer whether 2x6 studs for insulation would be a worthwhile upgrade.

 

[awd_ftw]

What do you plan to do or store in the garage? Where are you located?

If it is used for parking cars and storing garden tools that 22 x 22 would be fine. If you plan on working on cars or hobbies than the size is small. I had a similar size garage in a previous house. At the time, I wish the garage was larger.

You don't show your location. I cannot answer whether 2x6 studs for insulation would be a worthwhile upgrade.

As of right now I only have 1 car (planning on getting a 2nd in the summer) and will store garden tools, a snow blower, and some socket sets/car jack/small tool chest drawer. I do plan on working on my car but just basic maintenance.

I live in Winnipeg, Mb, Canada. It can get -40 with windchill in the prairies.

 

[Peco]

Go 24x24. Thats what I have now and it fits everything you mentioned above along with a small sports motorcycle and riding lawnmower. I have room for 2 cars and enough room to get in and out of a car if the other is in the garage too. You'll have room for motor work but if it involves removing a tire on each side of the car the other will have to be pulled out.

 

[1/2 Cup]

IMHO I would go for the 24 x 24, I have certainly out grown mine.

 

[doellski]

Since remodeling my own home, I have found out you can never have enough space. Go 24 x 24

 

[themiller]

24x24 for sure. If you can go to a 26 or 28 on one of the dimensions go for it. The extra space is nice to have so you don't have to be so careful parking, opening doors, working at the bench, etc.

 

[sammerdog]

Absolutely 24x24. As themiller stated, jump on it if you can expand one dimension to 26 or 28.

While 22' may cover your current needs, plans may change; kids begat bikes, job change necessitates a truck, or you develop a passion for motorcycles.

 

[Majordisorder]

Go 24x24(or bigger)and 2x6 on 2' centers as opposed to 2x4's on 16" centers.

 

[1949 caddyman]

Bigger is better

 

[Dale Leeds]

Welcome to the board. I'd go as big as possible. We would love to see some pictures of the build. And Peco, it is nice to hear from you too. Welcome aboard, guys.

 

[awd_ftw]

Thank you for the input! I called my builder to give me a price on a 24x24 with/without 2x6 and a 24x28deep with/without 2x6 framing. I will get pics of the lot soon. Pics of the pad and garage won't come until may or June.

 

[grissom]

Thank you for the input! I called my builder to give me a price on a 24x24 with/without 2x6 and a 24x28deep with/without 2x6 framing. I will get pics of the lot soon. Pics of the pad and garage won't come until may or June.

I would be curious as to the costs for either size

 

[awd_ftw]

I looked at my building plans and costs and the standard garage is 20 x 22 deep, 14"x14" thickened edge along the perimeter of pad, 6"x6" concrete curbs, cure & seal to pad, 3/0 out swing door, 36 3/8" x 30 1/2" garage window 16 x 7 non insulated garage door with 8 single paneclear glass inserts, 2 coach lights, 1 exterior wall light, stucco finish, soffit and fascia. This cost $19000

with the 22 x 22 and 18 x 7 insulated garage door and everything else the same the total is $22,760.00. so an extra $3760. I havent got prices yet for the other sizes.

 

[Jwestercamp]

Go as big as you can see if you can do a 10 sidewall allow for extra storage


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[drunkenfool]

I live in Alberta so I know what your weather is like. I just had a 24x26 built with 10' in height and 2x6 walls. The insulation is needed. The extra height is great for storage and if you ever work with 8' lumber. You wont be banging the roof or light fixtures. Also include as many plug ins and light fixtures as you can now. Place the plug ins about 4'4" from the floor. That way they won't be blocked by a work bench or sheet of plywood against the wall.

Good luck and take pics as it goes up!

 

[rancherbill]

With the build in June I still have a chance to upgrade but I can only upgrade either:

a.) make it 24 x 24
b.) keep 22 x22 but use 2 x 6 for better insulation in the future
c.) keep 22 x22 and add attic trusses for more storage

You have a base price. What is the upcharge for each of the options? My initial thought is the larger size is better value.

 

[finn]

Go bigger and as high as you can swing. The attic idea is good on paper but a PIA in practice, as to really make use of it you need permanent stairs, which eat up floorspace.

Gobig andplan on a nice shed later for lawn junk

 

[NUTTSGT]

With the build in June I still have a chance to upgrade but I can only upgrade either:

a.) make it 24 x 24
b.) keep 22 x22 but use 2 x 6 for better insulation in the future
c.) keep 22 x22 and add attic trusses for more storage
d.) make it 24 x 24 but use 2 x 6 for better insulation in the future

d. I chose that option.

 

[driz]

I have a 22 x 22 garage now for18 years. I absolutely HATE it every day. You won't have enough room to put even one car in there and do more than walk around. Add the usual shelves and a few usual items guess what, car lives outside. In fact just about everything I do is outside in front of the door. 24 x 36 would be MUCH more practical and would give you some room to store things as well as do things
If you were in South Carolina instead of the Ice Box you could probably get away with it. Believe me here in Nortern NY a small garage in the North Country is just a bit better than NO garage if you are a guy who "does things himself".


Another thing to watch for: WIND DIRECTION If it blows usually right at the door your garage will always be full of **** (like mine) unless you keep the door closed all the time (then it's dark) and inconvenient. Consider the prevailing wind direction although site considerations may well not allow ect.

IF ATTACHED TO HOUSE: Watch the landing to get into the house. It can eat up a full 1/5th of your cappy little 22 x 22 garage(hint hint, your old girlfriend was right BIGGER IS BETTER) If you have a door oriented wrong on the small garage and a landing you will hate yourself . Don't count on most builders to give you good advice, they likely will try to take the easy way out and you will have to live with the result especially if you are getting it for a set price.

DOOR GET ALUMINUM: Wood ***** and it's heavy and prone to weathering badly in cold climates and they aren't insulated. Get Aluminum and make sure you get doors with windows. The light will make a big difference .

If all you do is stick a lawn mower in there with a couple tennis rackets and a car then by all means go cheap and ignore everything I said. If you work on cars and such Especially in the frozen North treat my advice as an absolute warning. FWIW if you want I can send you a few pix of mine so you can see just how USELESS a small garage is. Spend the $$$ now , you "have been warned" or "will like the result" however you want to see it.

 

[Kevkx125]

Simple Go as big as you can

 

[Falcon67]

Our house garage is 21x22. It stores one 2x6x7 shelf unit, one F150, one Dodge Dart, one small 22x48" bench and two mountain bikes. It's full. As in, open the overhead door to get to the back of the truck. Good thing I have the other space. You're going to want 24x24 if that's all the space you can have.

 

[driz]

If you gotta go small, meaning 24 24 at least try for a 2nd floor. You have to use rafters to do it unless you use the really expensive trusses which still don't give you what you want. Depending on your codes you probably can't even use them but worth a try. Do a 7' ceiling with a 2nd level which takes the place (somewhat ) of the attic you will never have.
Screw it up and go cheap and you wind up with what I have. Nice high 10 ' utterly useless ceiling and a royal PITA to even begin to heat. A half *** crawl around storage area that is equally useless. Big lesson learned there but builder wasn't into doing what would give me the most room just wanted to get done and on to next job. Watch those guys closely unless you know them well , especially for advice.

 

[NUTTSGT]

If you gotta go small, meaning 24 24 at least try for a 2nd floor. You have to use rafters to do it unless you use the really expensive trusses which still don't give you what you want. Depending on your codes you probably can't even use them but worth a try. Do a 7' ceiling with a 2nd level which takes the place (somewhat ) of the attic you will never have.
Screw it up and go cheap and you wind up with what I have. Nice high 10 ' utterly useless ceiling and a royal PITA to even begin to heat. A half *** crawl around storage area that is equally useless. Big lesson learned there but builder wasn't into doing what would give me the most room just wanted to get done and on to next job. Watch those guys closely unless you know them well , especially for advice.

You're probably one of the few here that would recommend a 7' ceiling. You can't even stand a sheet of plywood up that low of ceiling and it makes working on tall stuff nearly impossible once you hang some lights off that low of a ceiling.

It's not that hard to heat, if it's insulated properly and you have something other than a little electric heater.

 

[driz]

You're probably one of the few here that would recommend a 7' ceiling. You can't even stand a sheet of plywood up that low of ceiling and it makes working on tall stuff nearly impossible once you hang some lights off that low of a ceiling.

It's not that hard to heat, if it's insulated properly and you have something other than a little electric heater.

Ok call it 8,the door is what I was thinking of at the time. Whatever it takes to give a functional upstairs that you can actually make use of. Personally I never saw the big high door as being especially useful with a smaller garage. I see a lot of commercial garages around here with much of their operation having very low ceilings. It costs a lot to heat that extra 3 or 5 feet, especially when the minute you open that huge door it's bone cold again.

 

[awd_ftw]

Thanks guys for the suggestions, I haven't got a call back about the pricing yet. I'm hoping the 24 x 24 upgrade is less than $4000 since that's all that is left in my garage budget.

I checked out my bro in laws garage which is only a 20 x 20 x 8 and I thought it was small for my use. I have to visually see the product before I decide, but extra 2ft around is still small once I saw his. As some of you suggested, I will try and get atleast 10ft ceilings for more storage options.

I'll take some pics of the lot.

 

[awd_ftw]

Well finally got a call back, a 24 x 24 is $3680 + permit cost, a 24x22 is $1760 + permit cost. Upgrading to 2x6 is an extra $1000.

 

[jlckmj]

Find a new builder ! !

If the numbers you just gave us are correct, he is going to charge you $1760 for 528 sq ft. and TWICE that for another 48 sq ft.? PLUS, another $1000 for 2x6's ?

Something does not compute.

Jim

 

[Todd.Brock]

Those numbers are nuts! I have a 20wide by 24 deep. It's not the worst in the world, but it's tight with 2 cars and opening car doors. I would be happy with another 2 feet on each side. Or a 24x28 with the attic trusses for storage. While a PITA, it still stores stuff I have no where else to put.


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[awd_ftw]

Find a new builder ! !

If the numbers you just gave us are correct, he is going to charge you $1760 for 528 sq ft. and TWICE that for another 48 sq ft.? PLUS, another $1000 for 2x6's ?

Something does not compute.

Jim

Those numbers are nuts! I have a 20wide by 24 deep. It's not the worst in the world, but it's tight with 2 cars and opening car doors. I would be happy with another 2 feet on each side. Or a 24x28 with the attic trusses for storage. While a PITA, it still stores stuff I have no where else to put.


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I know I guess the middleman needs to make something Unfortunately it's too late to back out now. I may as well buy or make a shed to store lawn/garden tools.

 

[driz]

I know I guess the middleman needs to make something Unfortunately it's too late to back out now. I may as well buy or make a shed to store lawn/garden tools.

Do it. That's the best place to keep them anyways. Besides they take up a lot of room and when you go to pull one down and it hooks something else you won't be happy when it lands on the hood of your car. Sensibly speaking you can just never get too much storage space now that the attic has gone away.

 

[diggler306]

Hello prairie friend. Saskatoon here. Couple things. Those upgrade numbers seem crazy. We had our 24x24x9 garage built 2 years ago. The builder was going to upgrade us from 2x4 to 2x6 for FREE (after some negotiating). A whole lot of communication errors later and we only got 2x4 framing. Anyway, in Winnipeg you will be thankful for 2x6 if u plan to insulate and heat. Just remember that it will eat up a foot of your floor space so you're going to want 24x24. Also, I went with 9 foot ceilings and wish I would have gone at least 10'. The extra foot gives u better clearance if u want to do radiant heat, but also gives you more shelf space and room above garage doors if u wanted to build storage. Just my nickels worth.

 

[dhubbard422]

Well finally got a call back, a 24 x 24 is $3680 + permit cost, a 24x22 is $1760 + permit cost. Upgrading to 2x6 is an extra $1000.

I’ve never figured out how builders bid… Around here (Texas) most seem to just throw out a number per sq ft that has worked for them in the past; I recently had a builder quote $70 - $80 per sq ft for a basic 24x32 stick framed garage. I declined to follow through on that offer...

If you just look at your agreed upon cost for the as planned garage as a basis for additional sq ft, you’d get something like the following:
$19,000 for a 20x22, or 440 sq ft garage that works out to $43.2/sq ft

So, using $43.2 as a basis your upgrades would work out to:
24x22 = 528, i.e. 88 add’l sq ft, 88 x $43.2 = $3,801 additional cost
24x24 = 576, i.e. 136 add’l sq ft, 136 x $43.2 = $5,875 additional cost

However, from an incremental perspective the quote is a bit odd...

88 add’l sq ft for $1,760 which works out to $20 per sq ft
136 add’l sq ft for $3,680 which works out to $27 per sq ft

If you have a decent relationship with your builder, I’d probably recommend just (politely) asking why the increment for one size (22x24) is $20 per sq ft and the other size (24x24) is $27 per sq ft… He may actually have some logical rationale. Generally, I'd expect that a construction for a sticked framed building with dimensions on multiples of 4' to be more cost effective, not less. I also don’t understand the $1,000 increase for 2x6 wall framing and I probably ask why there too. But, I’ve also learned that some times something is more expensive just because someone doesn’t want to do something a certain way...

Anyway, If you go 24’x24’, you may have room for 2 cars and a work bench or cabinets or stuff on one of the side walls and still be able to open doors on either of the 2 cars. 22’ wide would be challenging if you want to open the doors on either of the 2 cars and put stuff on a wall.

If you ever want to do more serious projects in your garage, one of the cars will (most likely) have to move outside. I’d heartily recommend a shed for the stuff you don’t want cluttering the garage.

Attic trusses might also be nice, especially if your roof has a nice steep pitch; I'd guess that your roof pitch might be fairly steep to help with your snow loads...

I have had several houses and all have had different sized garages. 3 houses ago... I had a 22x22 and I didn't get to park any cars in it. A little over a third of that garage was configured as an office/craft room that I shared with my wife and a closet for bicycle/lawn equipment, while the majority of the space was configured as a motorcycle workshop... BTW, we put a huge amount of junk in the attic under a low pitch hip roof.

 

[NUTTSGT]

....
Anyway, in Winnipeg you will be thankful for 2x6 if u plan to insulate and heat. Just remember that it will eat up a foot of your floor space so you're going to want 24x24....

If the walls are built on top of an 8" block or stem wall, the size of the wall is a moot point. If the builder wants to build the wall on the slab itself, thus saving wall space for floor space, I'd find another builder. There is no way I want my walls placed directly on the same plane as a floor that will get wet.

That being said, the difference between a 2x4 and 2x6 wall is merely 4" total side to side. Space that is well worth giving up for an extra R6 of insulation, which you are correct about, something to be thankful about.


I think the $1k upgrade for the walls might be about right, the stem is getting larger for the wall to sit on(maybe), upgraded cost for the R19 vs an R13 for the walls and an upgrade to the windows with deeper sashes. The cost for a 2x6 is about $1.50/stud, which you'll need 80-90 for the walls. That alone would be about half the cost.

 

[awd_ftw]

Thanks so much guys for the info, I've spoken to the builder and they won't budge on price and gave me the "materials went up in cost" talk. Another person on my street had her house built with the same builder and she told me they contract the garage build to someone else. I've left a message to the salesman to give me the company name so I can deal with them directly.

I spoke to another garage builder few days ago and his price is $18500 for a 24x24x10 with 2x6 studs with an 16x8 door and includes the concrete pad. But since I am in a subdivision where there are "architectural requirements" and the price just jumped to $20k. Still cheaper than the builder's cost. I'll have to dig up the pdf on these requirements.

 

[diggler306]

If the walls are built on top of an 8" block or stem wall, the size of the wall is a moot point. If the builder wants to build the wall on the slab itself, thus saving wall space for floor space, I'd find another builder. There is no way I want my walls placed directly on the same plane as a floor that will get wet.

That's true - and for the OP I hope he would consider a stem wall since its a brand new build... but a standard garage package will only be a slab. In fact, most new houses in our area already come with a default 20x20 or 24x24 detached slab in the back which is convenient but also annoying if you had envisioned anything more than a typical build. It

I spoke to another garage builder few days ago and his price is $18500 for a 24x24x10 with 2x6 studs with an 16x8 door and includes the concrete pad. But since I am in a subdivision where there are "architectural requirements" and the price just jumped to $20k. Still cheaper than the builder's cost. I'll have to dig up the pdf on these requirements.

That's not bad. Two years ago I think we paid $17k - $17.5k for a 24x24x9 (2x4 framing) shingled and sided with unfinished interior (no insulation) and that didn't include the slab. We have 3 overhead doors and cottage style roof included in that cost for the record.

 

[winnipegtibook]

I can chime in here (being from 100 miles from Tolstoi...those from southern Manitoba will get this). You MUST have a stem wall / raised curb. Given the amount of slop we get all winter, it's a must, simple as that. And the 2x6 won't really eat at too much of your interior space. I tried to maximize every INCH (and I mean inch), so the size you have proposed won't cause too many space issues. Just make sure you can get someone creative enough to do the drop-down attic latter.

 

[awd_ftw]

That's true - and for the OP I hope he would consider a stem wall since its a brand new build... but a standard garage package will only be a slab. In fact, most new houses in our area already come with a default 20x20 or 24x24 detached slab in the back which is convenient but also annoying if you had envisioned anything more than a typical build. It



That's not bad. Two years ago I think we paid $17k - $17.5k for a 24x24x9 (2x4 framing) shingled and sided with unfinished interior (no insulation) and that didn't include the slab. We have 3 overhead doors and cottage style roof included in that cost for the record.

I forgot that this price doesn't include siding/stucco the concrete pad doesn't have a curb around the perimeter.

I can chime in here (being from 100 miles from Tolstoi...those from southern Manitoba will get this). You MUST have a stem wall / raised curb. Given the amount of slop we get all winter, it's a must, simple as that. And the 2x6 won't really eat at too much of your interior space. I tried to maximize every INCH (and I mean inch), so the size you have proposed won't cause too many space issues. Just make sure you can get someone creative enough to do the drop-down attic latter.

Thanks, the pad has a 6" curb around I hope that is enough.