220V Saw outlet dilema

[Foamy]

Hello out there!
I am renting a house and my garage is not wired for 220. I would like to get a Grizzly 3hp saw that runs off 220. Would it be ok to run the saw off a heavy duty welder type extension cord from my dryer outlet (220V) to the saw in the garage. The run would be about 20ft.
Thanks in advance

 

[RVDan]

Yes.

 

[Farmall450]

Yes.

Ditto.

 

[Foamy]

Hi to both who responded. I spoke with a tech rep at Grizzly and they said they do not recommend running the saw on an extension cord. Something about a magnetic switch that could cause problems and also another problem with the load that could cause the motor to burn out. I don't agree with him as it seemed more like a cover their **** answer. Welders run off of some long runs without any issues also, I am a hobbyist not a professional shop where the saw would be running for hours on a daily basis ripping thick pieces of material.
Again thanks!

 

[GMCGarage]

I did it, and still use a chord. How does the saw know the electrons are coming thru a extension cord, and not just a long run in the walls.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Grizzly's concern is voltage drop, since they don't know how long the cord would be or what wire it's made from. Only 20 feet with a good heavy gauge extension cord should be no problem.

 

[fsae0607]

Hi to both who responded. I spoke with a tech rep at Grizzly and they said they do not recommend running the saw on an extension cord. Something about a magnetic switch that could cause problems and also another problem with the load that could cause the motor to burn out. I don't agree with him as it seemed more like a cover their **** answer. Welders run off of some long runs without any issues also, I am a hobbyist not a professional shop where the saw would be running for hours on a daily basis ripping thick pieces of material.
Again thanks!

Go to Home Depot or similar's electrical aisle and make yourself an extension cord with 10 AWG machine tool cord and the appropriate plug ends.

That dryer wall circuit is 10 AWG. All you're doing is virtually extending the house wiring by keeping to 10 AWG wire.

The manufacturer is covering their *** in a sense because most "extension cords" people buy are 12 AWG or smaller and that will cause a voltage drop.

 

[danb35]

most "extension cords" people buy are 12 AWG or smaller

...which is still more than enough for the ~15A current draw on the saw.

 

[BD1]

I would definitely buy more cord amps then you need. I wouldn't go smaller than 8 gauge or even 6. IF you get a welder or another 220 volt piece of equipment you'll have enough cord to handle it even it the circuit is only a 30 amp. Larger wire will have less resistance.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I would definitely buy more cord amps then you need. I wouldn't go smaller than 8 gauge or even 6.

For a 20 foot cord that's way overkill, and there's no advantage for running a 3hp saw. He didn't say anything about a welder.

 

[BD1]

For a 20 foot cord that's way overkill, and there's no advantage for running a 3hp saw. He didn't say anything about a welder.

He didn't say anything about a welder. I'm thinking of the future. Maybe he'll want a 220 volt sander? More $$$ but more useful and easier to sell if not needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[matt_i]

I would definitely buy more cord amps then you need. I wouldn't go smaller than 8 gauge or even 6. IF you get a welder or another 220 volt piece of equipment you'll have enough cord to handle it even it the circuit is only a 30 amp. Larger wire will have less resistance.

Imo that's going to be alot of extra money. Also consider that typical NEMA L- (locking) twistlock ends don't have the ability to land #8 or #6 conductors. I would stick with #10-4 awg. If you need a neutral someday or decide to go 3 phase then your cord can still be configured for either one of those.

 

[Jackfre]

If you buy the 10 wire and make up your own cord I strongly suggest that you use ring terminals of the plugs. They kinda get your attention when the bare wire slips out of the terminal and you cannot tighten it enough to hold over time. Ring terminals all the way. I know this because I just had my 50amp welder connection short out. Don't be like me!

 

[matt_i]

If you buy the 10 wire and make up your own cord I strongly suggest that you use ring terminals of the plugs. They kinda get your attention when the bare wire slips out of the terminal and you cannot tighten it enough to hold over time. Ring terminals all the way. I know this because I just had my 50amp welder connection short out. Don't be like me!

If you buy a Hubbell twistlock, you cannot use ring terminals, the screws and their clamp plates are quite heavy duty and I would trust them more than a crimp. Its touch-safe inside meaning your finger can't even get to the metallic connections unless you were touching the tool. Figure out what twistlock you need from the NEMA table (maybe its an L14-30...I don't know for sure) and try to get a decent used one from ebay is my recommendation.

Also make sure you don't fall into the trap of 14-30 male plug or receptacle is the same thing as an L14-30 plug or receptacle because they are not. I made that mistake once.....

 

[fsae0607]

...which is still more than enough for the ~15A current draw on the saw.

True, but your average Joe Homeowner would balk at the cost of a 12 AWG extension chord and grab a cheaper one, or just buy the cheapest one with no regard to the wire gauge.

 

[Phantomd]

If you have an industrial wire supply place nearby, give them a call. They are typically 1/3 the cost of home depot. Most dont require an account.

I purchased 50' of I THINK 12/3 SOOW for <$1/foot.

Whatever you do make sure you buy SOOW, you can get away with the smaller SJOOW but the price difference is not really worth the reduced strength/damage resistance.

 

[tarmy]

They sell super heavy duty 25’ extension cords for welding rigs...most welding places have them. They are expensive,

As others have said...get 10ga and make your own up...my table saw has a 25’ I made up and hardwired to the saw.

 

[danb35]

I don't think "your average Joe Homeowner" is buying 3hp cabinet saws, though.

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

FYI: Look at what your saw's motor is rated at then buy an in-line over current protection device (power strip with built in fuse/breaker). I don't know where you are and I'm not an electrician so me spewing rules/code will just embarrass me when I say something not accurate...

That said, you aren't supposed to plug a 15A device (6-15p) into a 30A circuit/receptacle (6-30r). Because that circuit's over-current protection is set to trip on a 30A basis, not 15A. Breakers trip at (as I understand it) roughly anything greater than 85% constant load or up to 125% on spikes. You could easily fry a 15A rated device by swapping out the plug/cord and plugging it into a 30A circuit.


They sell (I think they are called "in-line") over-current devices. It's a contraption that's like a breaker/fuse that allows you to safely step down from something like a dryer outlet to a lower rated device. My HD has them on the shelf in the electrical isle. It looks like an adapter. There's a couple different kinds. Just pick what you want to plug it into (know your dryer outlet NEMA numbers) and know what you want to plug into it (know your TS nema plug numbers). Easy... Then from there you can run an extension cord appropriate for the TS.


I've got an old 10" Delta Homecraft tilting table (yes tilting table, not tilting arbor) TS. Grizzly is a good name... I'm a little jealous!!


edit: for the 220, assuming it's a 20A motor/saw, just buy the over current contraption and a decent 125A (5-15) extension cord then clip the ends and put 6-20p/r on the ends.

 

[theoldwizard1]

They sell (I think they are called "in-line") over-current devices. It's a contraption that's like a breaker/fuse that allows you to safely step down from something like a dryer outlet to a lower rated device.

Never seen something like this for 240V and 20A or 30A !

While I am sure it is not NEC "approved", you could use a fused AC disconnect box for a housing. Using a standard dryer cord for the input and the appropriately sized wire (for the size of the fuse installed) wire for the rest of you "extension cord" to the saw.

Neutral from the dryer plug (assuming it is a 4 wire cord) is not used and be properly taped over. Both cords should connect their ground to the lugs inside the box.

 

[sberry]

A 3 hp saw will be fine on a 30 breaker with 12 or better wire. I am a fan of 10 for these, it can be used for many/most 50A welders. Especially in home/hobby shops.

 

[cptn_zippy]

I run my welder off the dryer outlet, made a custom cord to do so. Throw it out the laundry room window, and I only weld outside. Welder only draws ~25A, so the 30A dryer outlet is fine.

J

 

[Farmall450]

I almost feel bad for the OP when he logs in and see this.

 

[PCustoms]

I almost feel bad for the OP when he logs in and see this.

Yeah me too...

I run my welder off the dryer outlet, made a custom cord to do so. Throw it out the laundry room window, and I only weld outside. Welder only draws ~25A, so the 30A dryer outlet is fine.

J

Op, it will be fine. I have an 8 gauge welder extension cord, an adapter made using a dryer whip and a "welder outlet". For 2 yrs when I need to run the welder or my 3hp Jet saw, I would unplug the dryer, plug my adapter in and drag to cord through the basement to the garage.

Even when out of the apartment I ran this setup until I could get the shop setup. Saw is now wired with 12 gauge and a 20A breaker to a hanging outlet.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Figure out what twistlock you need from the NEMA table (maybe its an L14-30...I don't know for sure) and try to get a decent used one from ebay is my recommendation.

L14-30 is 4 pole. An L6-30 is perfect for what he needs. They're about $30. I wouldn't buy any used electrical connector.


Tommy

 

[Cobra5150]

20' of "extension cord" would probably take 30'+ to run an outlet through the walls to the garage. What's the difference?

 

[Ign]

Yes.

Yeah, the thread probably shoulda stopped here.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Hello out there!
I am renting a house and my garage is not wired for 220. I would like to get a Grizzly 3hp saw that runs off 220. Would it be ok to run the saw off a heavy duty welder type extension cord from my dryer outlet (220V) to the saw in the garage. The run would be about 20ft.
Thanks in advance

what type of dryer outlet do you have? 10-30 or 14-30?

Hi to both who responded. I spoke with a tech rep at Grizzly and they said they do not recommend running the saw on an extension cord. Something about a magnetic switch that could cause problems and also another problem with the load that could cause the motor to burn out. I don't agree with him as it seemed more like a cover their **** answer. Welders run off of some long runs without any issues also, I am a hobbyist not a professional shop where the saw would be running for hours on a daily basis ripping thick pieces of material.
Again thanks!

theres a big difference between a welder and a motor which has inrush current that will cause voltage drop.

FYI: Look at what your saw's motor is rated at then buy an in-line over current protection device (power strip with built in fuse/breaker). I don't know where you are and I'm not an electrician so me spewing rules/code will just embarrass me when I say something not accurate...

A power strip for a 240v machine? good luck on that one....they dont exist.

That said, you aren't supposed to plug a 15A device (6-15p) into a 30A circuit/receptacle (6-30r). Because that circuit's over-current protection is set to trip on a 30A basis, not 15A. Breakers trip at (as I understand it) roughly anything greater than 85% constant load or up to 125% on spikes. You could easily fry a 15A rated device by swapping out the plug/cord and plugging it into a 30A circuit.

the trip current actually varies between breakers but its not 85%.

Also, a 3hp motor has an FLC of 17a and typically the FLA will be lower than that so how would you fry something when it doesnt pull that much current? Most motors of this size have inherent overcurrent protection built-in (red reset button) that is designed to protect the motor and wiring.

They sell (I think they are called "in-line") over-current devices. It's a contraption that's like a breaker/fuse that allows you to safely step down from something like a dryer outlet to a lower rated device. My HD has them on the shelf in the electrical isle. It looks like an adapter. There's a couple different kinds. Just pick what you want to plug it into (know your dryer outlet NEMA numbers) and know what you want to plug into it (know your TS nema plug numbers). Easy... Then from there you can run an extension cord appropriate for the TS.

Those are for 120v circuits. You're confusing things.

I've got an old 10" Delta Homecraft tilting table (yes tilting table, not tilting arbor) TS. Grizzly is a good name... I'm a little jealous!!


edit: for the 220, assuming it's a 20A motor/saw, just buy the over current contraption and a decent 125A (5-15) extension cord then clip the ends and put 6-20p/r on the ends.

there is no overcurrent device that you speak of & a 6-20p will not work on a 10-30 or 14-30 outlet.

Please stop giving out misinformation

 

[alfredeneuman]

An L6-30 is perfect for what he needs.
Tommy

https://www.leviton.com/en/products/5372
2HP

 

[wyliesdiesels]

L14-30 is 4 pole. An L6-30 is perfect for what he needs. They're about $30. I wouldn't buy any used electrical connector.

Tommy

Need to make sure its rated for 3HP.

The one posted above is not.

 

[James-W]

The table saw I have is rather old and has a cast iron table. It came with a 1hp motor which wasn't powerful enough to do what I wanted to do with it. So I bought a 3hp motor, I run it on 220 and I replaced the power cord with a ten foot 12 gauge cord. Works great and the longer cord on the saw makes it easier to move it around if I need to.

 

[bergheger3]

What is the Full load amps of the saw?
What is the saw recommended breaker size?

Being 3HP at 220V-1P your probably about 17A with inrush you should have a recommended breaker size of 25A. Your house hold dryer is 30A. 10awg wire is good for 30A

You will be fine running a 10awg extension cord 20'. Voltage drop is well with in tolerance as long as you aren't 75' or more away from the breaker.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Need to make sure its rated for 3HP.

The one posted above is not.

This one isn't either
https://www.hubbell.com/hubbell/en/.../High-Amp-Devices/HBL9330/p/174744?PN=HBL9330

 

[Norcal]

This one isn't either
https://www.hubbell.com/hubbell/en/.../High-Amp-Devices/HBL9330/p/174744?PN=HBL9330

Nor is the 20A 250V Twistlock® I use on my 3 HP Unisaw, but don't use it as a disco either, but that does not make it right, the 30A 250V Twistlock® has a 2 HP rating, since hard wiring is not a option, & the floorbox will not accept anything larger then 30A so not going to change it & there is a combination starter on the saw that is a disconnect. Still doubtful it is compliant....