220v Single phase motor wiring.

[Simplytodd]

Could someone enlighten me on if I just burned up the motor on my new to me wood jointer.

I bought this thing a few months ago it was originally wired for 120v when I looked at it. I ran it for a few minutes, put a board across it, paid the man his money and loaded it up. Skip to today I wired it up for 220v plugged her in and let it rip. A minute into using it and the motor starts to smoke. It was pretty hot to the touch as well.

Not a electrician by any means but I thought the diagram on the side was pretty straightforward. Any way see pics below. Thanks.

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[The Cobbler]

not sure what you did, but the wires don't seem to match the diagram?

3, 8, & 2 should be connected together. 1 to one hot, 4&5 to the other hot

edit. i see what you did to reverse direction. me bad

 

[Simplytodd]

Below the 120 and 220 diagram it shows that 5 and 8 are interchangeable for motor direction. That was how he had it wired for the 120 setup so I assumed it also applied to the 220 as well. Maybe I am wtong?

 

[The Cobbler]

I edited my post while you were typing

 

[Wrench97]

It's correct for reverse rotation, is that what you wanted?

 

[Simplytodd]

It was. It was wired reverse for 120 so I assumed it would have the same effect on 220. The cutter head needs to spin that direction.

 

[Dagny]

Not your fault . but still *****

 

[Dagny]

check capacitors

 

[Simplytodd]

Is this what a motor that is now trash looks like? Not sure what I should be looking for but the twine that was wrapping the copper windings is obviously burned and some of the copper is also soot covered. The motor never shut off and the breaker didn’t trip I could just smell something and turned it off. After the motor spin down I could clearly see smoke. Also is it worth looking into having this fixed if it is toast?

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[wyliesdiesels]

Does the motor have integral overload protection?

Whats the HP rating?

Due to glare, i cant read the nameplate.

The left side is also cutoff

 

[Simplytodd]

I will get another picture but it’s a 3/4 hp single phase.

 

[Simplytodd]

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[Simplytodd]

Bottom side of the motor. Pretty sure this thing is a goner.

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[American Locomotive]

It's definitely toast and unfortunately it's not economical to rebuild motors that small. I don't think it's anything you did, since it's wired correctly.

Thankfully motors that size aren't too expensive. You should be able to find another frame 56 3450RPM 3/4HP motor for $250-300

 

[Simplytodd]

Yeah did a little digging on here. The consensus seems to be the cost of a rebuild on these small motors is not economical to just buying new.

Feel somewhat better knowing I didn’t cause it but my so so buy on this jointer just became a overpaid buy.

 

[The Cobbler]

that *****

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Does it have integral overload protection?

 

[Simplytodd]

I don’t believe so as just looking around on some of the other Baldor motors in that range I can see that listed on the motor tag.

 

[ClappedOutBport]

Looks like just one set of windings is black. Starting windings stuck on? Bummer about the motor.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Does the motor have integral overload protection?

Whats the HP rating?

Due to glare, i cant read the nameplate.

The left side is also cutoff

Does it have integral overload protection?

Industrial motors powering equipment are never internally protected. They're designed to be used with external O/L protection, like a starter.

Looks to me like the centrifugal switch jammed and the burned the start winding.

Tommy