I have 2, 220v circuits in my detached garage.
I have a compressor a welder and a 2 post lift that run off of 220. I have the lift tied into the welder breaker as I am never using both simultaneously but often the compressor is running while I'm putting something up on the lift.
Anyway I have gotten into a little home powdercoating. I bought a $40 used kitchen oven/ range from CL for my powdercoating. It's a 3 wire setup and I use it off the cord I use for the welder when I need it on the opposite side of the garage from where my 220 plugs are at. Same prong configuration at the plug.
I found a different oven I want to use instead. It's a double, built in style oven with temp controls and timers for both top and bottom compartments. (I don't care about the timers working or not as long as the temp controls do)
I'll get into why I'm going to a different style of oven later. (Has mostly to do with getting older and not having to bend down so much to load and unload the oven, and getting the "drops" trying to be quick about working near a red hot heating coil)
Anyway this double oven is a 4 wire.
Not a 3. I have red. Black white and green coming out of the oven.
I know that conventionally red and black are hot white is neutral and green is ground. All the wiring in the walls is run in galvanized EMT.
Can I eliminate one of the 4 wires and wire this oven to a 3 wire plug at least to plug it in and verify it works before I get rid of the stove/range combo?
I don't think brand matters for purpose of discussion but it is an old ancient Tappan double oven. If I had to guess I'd say late 60s to early/mid 70s vintage.
I'm wondering if it's 4 wire because the temp controls running off of 110 maybe and not 220?
Can I wire in a 3 wire plug (even if temporary to test this "new" oven) mainly because I have it here and don't have a 4 wire on hand? The wall plugs in the garage are set up for 4 wire but this cord I have is only 3.
The (at least for now) "test plug" I have is a new take off pigtail with black white and green.
(Hey the Eastwood store had a whole box of these at $5 ea haha Soni had to buy 2 for "someday"... I think they came off of /or for/ the welders they sell)
The other reason for the change is that the stove/oven combo, only the bottom heating element works. The top one never has.
When I'm hanging small parts off the oven racks that's not an issue. But when I do something closer to filling the oven and have parts on top rack and bottom rack the parts on the top rack run 50* colder than what's in the bottom rack and I'm not so sure about the powder curing as well on that top rack at the colder temp as the parts on the bottom can/ do
I most recently did the hub portion of a couple of 3/4 ton truck rotors in that one and that's when I discovered the temp difference within. I knew the top element was "out" before curing the rotors but it was the first job I did with that "loading configuration".
I have a compressor a welder and a 2 post lift that run off of 220. I have the lift tied into the welder breaker as I am never using both simultaneously but often the compressor is running while I'm putting something up on the lift.
Anyway I have gotten into a little home powdercoating. I bought a $40 used kitchen oven/ range from CL for my powdercoating. It's a 3 wire setup and I use it off the cord I use for the welder when I need it on the opposite side of the garage from where my 220 plugs are at. Same prong configuration at the plug.
I found a different oven I want to use instead. It's a double, built in style oven with temp controls and timers for both top and bottom compartments. (I don't care about the timers working or not as long as the temp controls do)
I'll get into why I'm going to a different style of oven later. (Has mostly to do with getting older and not having to bend down so much to load and unload the oven, and getting the "drops" trying to be quick about working near a red hot heating coil)
Anyway this double oven is a 4 wire.
Not a 3. I have red. Black white and green coming out of the oven.
I know that conventionally red and black are hot white is neutral and green is ground. All the wiring in the walls is run in galvanized EMT.
Can I eliminate one of the 4 wires and wire this oven to a 3 wire plug at least to plug it in and verify it works before I get rid of the stove/range combo?
I don't think brand matters for purpose of discussion but it is an old ancient Tappan double oven. If I had to guess I'd say late 60s to early/mid 70s vintage.
I'm wondering if it's 4 wire because the temp controls running off of 110 maybe and not 220?
Can I wire in a 3 wire plug (even if temporary to test this "new" oven) mainly because I have it here and don't have a 4 wire on hand? The wall plugs in the garage are set up for 4 wire but this cord I have is only 3.
The (at least for now) "test plug" I have is a new take off pigtail with black white and green.
(Hey the Eastwood store had a whole box of these at $5 ea haha Soni had to buy 2 for "someday"... I think they came off of /or for/ the welders they sell)
The other reason for the change is that the stove/oven combo, only the bottom heating element works. The top one never has.
When I'm hanging small parts off the oven racks that's not an issue. But when I do something closer to filling the oven and have parts on top rack and bottom rack the parts on the top rack run 50* colder than what's in the bottom rack and I'm not so sure about the powder curing as well on that top rack at the colder temp as the parts on the bottom can/ do
I most recently did the hub portion of a couple of 3/4 ton truck rotors in that one and that's when I discovered the temp difference within. I knew the top element was "out" before curing the rotors but it was the first job I did with that "loading configuration".
