24 Inch Breaker Bar

[lardy1]

I cheaped out on the Pittsburgh 1/2" drive, 24" long breaker bar from Harbor Freight because it gets high marks in Garage Journal, is priced at around $20.00 and I thought I'd rarely use it.

Well, it impressed me for the measly twenty bucks. I've used it way more than I thought I would. I've put a 22mm socket on it and stood on a short stool and then stood on the bar with one foot to break things loose. I don't mind telling you that it scares the BeJesus out of me because of the way it flexes and because I really don't trust the flex head, considering what it is.

So...I'm considering investing in a higher grade of tool. I'm an SK brand ***** and will likely lean that way on my own. Am I going to be getting a much better tool (as in four times the price) by going with a domestic such as Proto or SK or should I just chill out and let the Pittsburgh carry the load? Old lug nuts and trailer suspension parts are about the hardest it would get worked.

 

[OneDollarSaab]

If you're not doing axle nuts or anything crazy I wouldn't bother, really.

 

[Ign]

SK makes a 30" which I have. Not sure I've ever used it but figured it'll be useful some day...

 

[qqzj]

Treat yourself better and get a DeWalt or Milwaukee big impact gun. With a heavy duty impact socket, they can break, probably every crank pulley bolt easy.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[2ndGearRubber]

SK makes a 30" which I have. Not sure I've ever used it but figured it'll be useful some day...

That's what I have too. I bent it a hair with a cheater pipe on a honda crank bolt. I was doing it at home for a family member so i didn't have air.

 

[sparky 1971]

I have a Proto 24" and a SK 30". I don't think I have ever used the Proto, but the SK passed the torture test. My 310 lbs bouncing on it to break a lug loose on my truck. My super duty high torque end all be all M18 impact wouldn't touch it. 1400 ft lbs my ***. I don't know how the SK 24" compares to the 30", but the 30" SK is quite a bit thicker than the 24" Proto, and the knurled handle dwarfs the Proto. I don't know why, but one day I was browsing the SK website and they had the 30" breaker bar for cheap. That's the only reason I have one. I went back a few days later to get another and they were back to the full price.

I just looked at my SK order for the breaker bar. $60.74 shipped. They are $140.00 now, but will be quite a bit cheaper from someplace like HJE.

 

[Mr_B]

I would go with a 30" as least then you got 2 lengths of breaker from the purchase and can keep using the pitts pro in lighter duty scenarios or where shorter length needed .
You'll fatigue the pitts pro one day but they are stronger tool than should be for the price .
Just be careful and beef on it in a way if fails you not likely hurt and can walk into HF and get it warranty swapped out
treating yourself to an SK or proto not bad idea. is one of those tools you want some trust in . Feeding your SK hunger in a 30" only going be around 80bucks and it pretty stout bar .

 

[exmaxima1]

Just be careful and beef on it in a way if fails you not likely hurt and can walk into HF and get it warranty swapped out
treating yourself to an SK or proto not bad idea. is one of those tools you want some trust in .

I broke my Snap On 24" bar trying to remove a Nissan axle nut. I don't think there is much difference in modern breaker bars.

 

[OneDollarSaab]

If you feel the need for a 24" you should probably be using 3/4" drive anyway.

 

[BukitCase]

If you're gonna be bouncing on a 24" bar very much, might wanna move up to 3/4 drive - I have this tekton 38" -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OXUPHTW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Bought it while working on my Case 580. Hydraulic cylinders that haven't seen a wrench in 20 years can be a bit stubborn (some of the piston bolts are spec'd at 1100 ft lbs) - so far, no complaints (altho I use my 1" drive impact for those 1100 pounders )... Steve

 

[Mr_B]

I broke my Snap On 24" bar trying to remove a Nissan axle nut. I don't think there is much difference in modern breaker bars.

My SK and snapon far nicer to use as less flex and the 30" sk proper stout bar .
I bust pitts pro and koken .
Indeed they all pretty close but the flex in pitts pro makes it a **** to use in area you limited on swing arc and having hadbreakers break I can see the potential for injury or damage thus any small gain is worthwhile if you beefing on them proper hard .

 

[2ndGearRubber]

If you feel the need for a 24" you should probably be using 3/4" drive anyway.

I used to think the same thing. Then you find lots of the bolt sizes you want aren't available in 3/4 easily in anything but 12 point. 3/4 sockets are often much thicker as well, which can cause access issues.

 

[unslow1]

Anything really tight I usually use a 3/4 bar with a Snapon reducer. I do have a lot of 3/4 inch sockets but I have pretty much everything in 1/2.

 

[Mechanical Noise]

I have both the 24" Harbor Freight breaker bar and an old (square drive in the handle) SK breaker bar. The SK bar is somewhat shorter, maybe 18 or 20 inches long.

I think both bars are quite strong but I much prefer the SK bar, simply because the SK bar is thicker and more rigid. It just feels better.

I don't worry about breaking the HF bar. I believe the weak point in either bar is at the drive and would likely twist off at about the same torque. I don't think the HF bar would ever break at the handle but the handle is thinner and can flex to an uncomfortable degree at high torque.

I will say, despite it's flexy handle, the HF bar has enough leverage to break sockets with ease. I was trying to get a rusty bolt out with a Craftsman 15 mm socket and BANG!! split the socket down 4 of it's 6 points.

 

[Rabid Badger]

Looks like the best deal on the SK right now is HJE. About $90 shipped.

Damn it, now I want one.

 

[B_Bimmer]

The flex in a harbor fright bar has prevented me from loosening bolts several times due to limited access. Any bar can be broken, from a usability standpoint I prefer a good quality 18" and a well fitting pipe, and if I am concerned about breakage I move up to a bigger drive size. My most commonly used one is a Proto and has held up excellent for years.

 

[dutchgray]

I have a Bahco 36" 1/2" drive which is really a Snap-On bar, I suspect it would not be too hard to bust it if you were an animal, but I have a cheap 36" 1" drive bar (and 1" to 3/4" adapter) which you would really have to work at to break by hand, there is just so much more metal in them.
24" I have a couple of relatively cheap ones, they seem to be ok for as much as I use them.
At work we also have cheap old Taiwan 3/4" round head ratchets that have been welded up solid after they got busted, they get pipes on them or pushed with excavators if needed. They are basically free so it doesn't matter if you bend one or snap the anvil off.

 

[Fedwrench]

I have an assortment of breaker bars in different lengths and brands. I think you're better off avoiding the flex of longer length bars by getting the stoutest 18 inch bar you can afford. The SK 30 inch 1/2 drive is a great bar but, the size its knurled handle may prevent you from using your favorite cheater pipe. Their prices have doubled since their introduction. I've snapped the square drive off of PROTO's a couple of times over several years. I think as long as the bar bounces back from the flexing you'll be ok. The square drives are engineered to fail before the bar itself on most models.
There are more than a few test to failure breaker bar videos on you tube you can view and draw your own opinion on

 

[Rabid Badger]

I'm just going to leave this here.

Credit to Real Tool Reviews.

 

[lardy1]

I have a mid 70's era Wright 3/4" drive set. The breaker bar isn't very big and the sockets are twelve point so I'm probably not going that direction. Also, typically need smaller sizes.

I don't use cheater pipes. Haven't in years. Maybe my shorter Pow-R-Kraft bar with a cheater is a better option.

 

[Schurkey]

Who would settle for a 24" breaker bar when they could have a 24" ratchet?

I own some breaker bars, but only because they were given to me; and I've never used 'em. I'd never buy one with my own money.

 

[Ign]

I have a Bahco 36" 1/2" drive which is really a Snap-On bar, I suspect it would not be too hard to bust it if you were an animal, but I have a cheap 36" 1" drive bar (and 1" to 3/4" adapter) which you would really have to work at to break by hand, there is just so much more metal in them.
24" I have a couple of relatively cheap ones, they seem to be ok for as much as I use them.
At work we also have cheap old Taiwan 3/4" round head ratchets that have been welded up solid after they got busted, they get pipes on them or pushed with excavators if needed. They are basically free so it doesn't matter if you bend one or snap the anvil off.

Damn you, now I want the Bahco 8170-1/2 but can't find any way to get it here. Amazon.fr does show it, maybe I'll go deeper down that rabbit hole...

 

[theoldwizard1]

Treat yourself better and get a DeWalt or Milwaukee big impact gun. With a heavy duty impact socket, they can break, probably every crank pulley bolt easy.

To beat the torque on a 24" breaker bar, they had better be 3/4" drive impacts !

 

[ex-x-fire]

I once had a frozen cradle bolt, I used the HF 24" $10 breaker bar with a 5' pipe. It was at the point where the bar was bending like a leaf spring, soaking up all my twisting force. I used a SK round head with that pipe and she broke loose.

 

[Ign]

Ok looks like I could get the 36" Bahco for $145 USD

Not bad compared to the 30" SK but I'll wait. If nothing else I dunno what COVID fear mongering is doing to international shipping

 

[anndel]

I cheaped out on the Pittsburgh 1/2" drive, 24" long breaker bar from Harbor Freight because it gets high marks in Garage Journal, is priced at around $20.00 and I thought I'd rarely use it.

Well, it impressed me for the measly twenty bucks. I've used it way more than I thought I would. I've put a 22mm socket on it and stood on a short stool and then stood on the bar with one foot to break things loose. I don't mind telling you that it scares the BeJesus out of me because of the way it flexes and because I really don't trust the flex head, considering what it is.

So...I'm considering investing in a higher grade of tool. I'm an SK brand ***** and will likely lean that way on my own. Am I going to be getting a much better tool (as in four times the price) by going with a domestic such as Proto or SK or should I just chill out and let the Pittsburgh carry the load? Old lug nuts and trailer suspension parts are about the hardest it would get worked.

I bought one 3 years ago at HF and it was on sale with coupon for $14.99. On it's first use to remove a pitman arm bolt torqued to 150 ft-lbs, the wrench flexed like crazy then the head snapped off. I finished the job with a 18" Armstrong breaker bar. Never again. Just threw a 1/2" 30 in long SK in my cart at HJE for Epstein's day purchase.

 

[jsaw]

Who would settle for a 24" breaker bar when they could have a 24" ratchet?

Same thought here. , to add to that thought, If my impact won't loosen it, there is going to be 2 feet of cheater pipe on the end of the ratchet/breaker bar. Not very often it happens.

My 3/4 drive tools are actually shorter than my 1/2 " drive tools

 

[Schurkey]

Who would settle for a 24" breaker bar when they could have a 24" ratchet?

Same thought here. , to add to that thought, If my impact won't loosen it, there is going to be 2 feet of cheater pipe on the end of the ratchet/breaker bar. Not very often it happens.

My 3/4 drive tools are actually shorter than my 1/2 " drive tools

That's one of the things that's kept me from buying a 3/4" ratchet. They're nearly all 20" long, and I already own a 24" ratchet in 1/2 drive; along with a pile of sockets.

I did, however, have a thought on breaker bars. They'd be handy when turning a crankshaft back-and-forth looking for slop in the timing chain by watching the distributor rotor "not" turn as the crank is turned. Other than that...ratchet, please.

 

[brownbagg]

three foot black iron pipe

 

[Lprock]

I have the 24" Pittsburgh 1/2 breaker and will get another when I break this one. Used it to hold bolts that had to get torqued to 400 ft lbs (Photo of bolts on the carrier bearing housing, 550 Quadtrac. For reference that's a 1/2 Mac axis laying in the photo). I'll abuse the breaker bar before I abuse my 18" or 24" 1/2 rachet.

Also have a Tekton 3/4 rachet that's 22" long and is a beef cadet. Also picked up the Icon 36" 3/4 breaker bar, it's very stout. Can bounce on it without much flex.

 

[BiggityBen]

FWIW, i used a 3/8 Pittsburgh Pro breaker bar on a rusty aluminum output lug once, and it broke the head clean off. i used a shorter SK ratchet, still 3/8, and the fastener turned. i work on the road and all i had was the breaker, my SK i think 11" 3/8 and my flex stubby 3/8 ratchet so those were my options. (also impacts but i don't use those on aluminum lugs if i can help it). i believe some people have great luck with HF tools but i think it's a gamble. next time my Mac dealer came around and i was in the shop i bought their 3/8 longer breaker and have never had an issue.

 

[Rabid Badger]

I once had a frozen cradle bolt, I used the HF 24" $10 breaker bar with a 5' pipe. It was at the point where the bar was bending like a leaf spring, soaking up all my twisting force. I used a SK round head with that pipe and she broke loose.

A flexing breaker bar doesn't reduce the torque applied to the fastener.

 

[qqzj]

Just get a 3/4 impact then. Jumping up and down on a breaker bar is no longer very cute after a certain age.

But seriously, what is the calculation here? 24 inch is only 2 ft. Suppose a guy has super skills to stand on one toe at the tip of the bar, and suppose he is a bit chubby at 350 lbs, that is only 700 ft lbs.

To beat the torque on a 24" breaker bar, they had better be 3/4" drive impacts !

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[BFHtime]

I have a 1/2 snap-on breaker bar and that thing can flex pretty good. I thought sometimes it would break when I have used it. I also have a Snap-on 36 inch breaker bar which does not flex much at all. It is a bit thicker throughout.

 

[dutchgray]

Ok looks like I could get the 36" Bahco for $145 USD

Not bad compared to the 30" SK but I'll wait. If nothing else I dunno what COVID fear mongering is doing to international shipping

I think I paid the equivalent of ~$160 for mine, it was before SK made their long bars, but shipping on those excludes them as SK is not sold here. The Bahco was not easy to find but was sourced from this side of the Atlantic.

 

[tonyciambrone]

My 24" Pitt Pro has been everything $10 should buy and then some

Most notably removing seized axle nuts on my 2500 GMC, with the handle of a pittsburgh jack over it, and me jumping on the end of it.

I really think unless you routinely find yourself in critical applications- where your breaker bar absolutely must stay in one piece or you are losing money, or out a job because of it, the pitt pro is plenty good.

I am also 100% some **** pieces make their way through 'QC'. Enough of us have this tool to tell that on the whole it is a fantastic value/performer at the price given, up against options 8 or 10 times the cost.

 

[Coach James]

What about a 3/4" sliding T-bar? I have 3. A Bonney and two Williams. All are ~18-20 inches long. All are thick, but the Bonney is thickest.

Coach

 

[Crabman]

Lardy,

Not sure if you made a move, but I ran across this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Sn...241545?hash=item36661a6bc9:g:VHYAAOSwEKxfAoTe

Bruce

 

[lardy1]

Thank you.

 

[Crabman]

Also, while seller name is Bruce and me as well, I am not the seller and not affiliated.

For the right price that would be a nice piece.

Good luck