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Bull

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MA
P08-08-11_1414.jpg


LKDelta1.jpg


P06-27-11_20211.jpg
 
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Lkdelta

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Sep 21, 2010
Messages
1,131
Location
40 mi.east of syracuse
That lift is all the way up and that is a standard 5 gallon bucket with the drainpan on it.

(pic on the right)
I can lift the car-lift with a chain-fall and back a trailer under it
completely portable:thumbup:


(pic on the left)
Can do this with it too..for oil changes, tire removal/changing
 

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Lkdelta

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Sep 21, 2010
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Location
40 mi.east of syracuse
Is that picture of the red car taken in the garage you are moving out of or did you split your 24x24 into two 24x12's?

2" X 4" X 9' stud wall, sheathed,.... right down the middle, starting between the garage doors and going to the back wall.

There is a cross over doorway "just to the right" of that creeper hanging on the wall

24 ft span would have been too long for the loft.
 
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rubberrodder

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Jul 6, 2007
Messages
616
Location
Tacomatose Wa.
I am planning to do a 24x24 with a loft/second floor to replace my, ahem... "four supports for a sagging rain diverter". I am keeping an eye on this thread.
 
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Lkdelta

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Sep 21, 2010
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Location
40 mi.east of syracuse
In ground scissor lift started...

I've started the project to make the Atlas Quik Bay 7000 scissor lift flush with my floor
Basic description.. and then, with details of each pic
Got the hole dug to allow a 4" pad approx 4.25" below grade.
That makes my lift pads flush with the garage floor

1.Pick the lift up
2.set it on the trailer
3.get my 4.25" depth below grade, set for the concrete screed
 

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Lkdelta

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Location
40 mi.east of syracuse
more progress

1 & 2 When I start pouring, the 2X4 with the 2X8 sandwiched in the middle
will be my best effort to maintain a consistant level, 4.25" below grade for the top of the concrete pad

3.I then added another piece of 2x8.... 8.25" deep to get a consistant depth in the bottom of the hole
 

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Lkdelta

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Location
40 mi.east of syracuse
some more progress
1.Working my way across digging
2.The hole is now 4" deeper than the top of the pad will be.
3.Cut a channel for my hydraulic hose

4.I used the spray bottle from a cheap bottle of glasscleaner
It was full of water to keep the circ saw blade cool, and keep dust down
Spray it on the back edge of the saw blade so it gets pulled into the cut

5.Cut a channel over toward the wall for the hydraulic hose from the control unit.
A masonary blade on the circ saw and a couple of passes starting with a dive cut got me 2" deep

make the passes about 1" apart, and then simply break the piece out between the cuts with a chisel
 

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Lkdelta

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Location
40 mi.east of syracuse
Mixing the bags and pouring them in the hole, to follow soon
Still doesn't make sense to dig a hole, just to fill it back in again:headscrat
 
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Lkdelta

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Sep 21, 2010
Messages
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Location
40 mi.east of syracuse
Used some of the bags (18) and mixed by hand,
after seeing the weather forecast to only get hotter during the week

Left to right and then top down to bottom row

1.Pad just poured
2.Pad starting to set, looking across "at grade level"
3.set for couple days
4.lift is reset and ready for use.
5.looking across the surface and nothing visible above grade level
 

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