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240 receptacle type

jives

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HI all:
About to wire the garage and plan on a 240V, 30A outlet in each corner. (see build here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287155&highlight=jives+gym). The primary reason is so that I can install portable electric heaters in areas as needed (yes, there are reasons for this, but that is not for discussion here). The heaters would be 5000W units drawing about 22 Amps and typically have NEMA 6-30 plugs. Some have twist lock NEMA L6-30 (see pics below). Twist locks are a good idea, so that seems like the right plug. I'd like each receptacle to be the same so that the heaters can be moved to any corner.

However, I also plan on a basic 240V welder that could run off a 30A circuit, and envision that one day I may get 240V power tools (e.g,. table saw). Tools like this are typically 20A or even 15A. A look at the pic below tells me that regular NEMA 6-15, 6-20, and 6-30 plugs on tools and heaters would all fit in a NEMA 6-30 receptacle. Is that true?

If I go with a locking receptacle their may be compatibility issues with tools with a 6-15 plug.

Any thoughts on what receptacle to use?

 
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larry_g

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They are all different. Pay attention to to blade width, circle diameter and the tab position on the neutral.

lg
no neat sig line
 

pattenp

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Are you thinking of putting multiple 30A outlets on a single circuit? If this is a residential use property then your local building code may not allow a multi-outlet circuit greater than 20A. Usually 30A and greater outlets are restricted to a single outlet on a single dedicated circuit.
 
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jives

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They are all different. Pay attention to to blade width, circle diameter and the tab position on the neutral.

Okay, so here is a different image that each receptacle is indeed a different sizes and/or configuration. So, with that in mind, is there a solution? Adapter plugs? Dedicated receptacles?

 

Falcon67

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Maybe code/not code but most people call them "cheater cords" - plug for X on one end, socket for Y on the other. Pick your standard outlet and if your device has a different but similar rated plug, make a 1' - 2' - 3' - X' whatever adapter. Buy your parts from Amazon or somewhere online and you'll pay half or less for brand name parts vs what you'd pay at the big box.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
HI all:
About to wire the garage and plan on a 240V, 30A outlet in each corner. (see build here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287155&highlight=jives+gym). The primary reason is so that I can install portable electric heaters in areas as needed (yes, there are reasons for this, but that is not for discussion here). The heaters would be 5000W units drawing about 22 Amps and typically have NEMA 6-30 plugs. Some have twist lock NEMA L6-30 (see pics below). Twist locks are a good idea, so that seems like the right plug. I'd like each receptacle to be the same so that the heaters can be moved to any corner.

However, I also plan on a basic 240V welder that could run off a 30A circuit, and envision that one day I may get 240V power tools (e.g,. table saw). Tools like this are typically 20A or even 15A. A look at the pic below tells me that regular NEMA 6-15, 6-20, and 6-30 plugs on tools and heaters would all fit in a NEMA 6-30 receptacle. Is that true?

If I go with a locking receptacle their may be compatibility issues with tools with a 6-15 plug.

Any thoughts on what receptacle to use?


Youre misreading the chart. Look at the pins. No way would a 6-15p fit in a 6-30r.

What would be the point in having different plugs and outlets if they all fit in each other?
 
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jives

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Okay, we've established an incompatibility among the receptacles of different amp ratings. And, yes, each 240V receptacle is on a separate circuit.

So, with that in mind, one solution is to have on hand a variety of adapters, which are available and can be pricey. Are there other options?
 

larry_g

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There are a few non code compliant ways to do this. I have been known to file a blade on the plug, put two receptacles on the same circuit, make adapter cord as described above, or change the cord cap on the machine.

I in no way suggest others do this, I just do what works for me in my one man shop.

lg
no neat sig line
 

aptdweller

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Ottawa, ON
NEMA 6-15 and 6-30 plugs and receptacles are readily available here (in Canada) so it is common to standardize on those. I have done so myself.

Whichever style you go with, I would suggest sticking to two amperage classes. It isn’t common that I want to run two machines at the same time, but when you do it is easy to run out of receptacles.
 
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mason_tay

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Why not pick the outlet that matches your heaters and then change the plug on whatever tools you may acquire to match the outlet?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

alfredeneuman

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Fullerton, CA
Are you thinking of putting multiple 30A outlets on a single circuit? If this is a residential use property then your local building code may not allow a multi-outlet circuit greater than 20A. Usually 30A and greater outlets are restricted to a single outlet on a single dedicated circuit.


That's applicable only if the Code recognized in your jurisdiction is the International Electrical Code.
The NEC has no such restrictions.
 

nadogail

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Why not pick the outlet that matches your heaters and then change the plug on whatever tools you may acquire to match the outlet?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What He Said.

IMHO, Consider standardizing all your 30 Amp tools and heaters on one kind of plug, then wire in the receptacles (Outlets) that matches your plugs.

That is what I did; that way the same extension cord can serve both my big saw and the welder.
 

theoldwizard1

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Why not pick the outlet that matches your heaters and then change the plug on whatever tools you may acquire to match the outlet?

That is what I would do. Likely I would "standardize" on 6-30 (or L6-30) and change all cord ends to match.

The breaker for these receptacles must be 30A and the wire used must be capable of carrying 30A over its length.


This does of course mean that you could overload a device that originally had a 6-20 plug and the breaker would not trip.
 

Speedy Petey

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Are you thinking of putting multiple 30A outlets on a single circuit? If this is a residential use property then your local building code may not allow a multi-outlet circuit greater than 20A. Usually 30A and greater outlets are restricted to a single outlet on a single dedicated circuit.
I have to correct this. I think a more accurate way to say this is:
"In rare cases 30A and greater outlets are restricted to a single outlet on a single dedicated circuit."
 
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jives

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What He Said.

IMHO, Consider standardizing all your 30 Amp tools and heaters on one kind of plug, then wire in the receptacles (Outlets) that matches your plugs.

That is what I did; that way the same extension cord can serve both my big saw and the welder.

Yup, this is the way. Good to go!
 

Junkman

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That is what I would do. Likely I would "standardize" on 6-30 (or L6-30) and change all cord ends to match.

The breaker for these receptacles must be 30A and the wire used must be capable of carrying 30A over its length.


This does of course mean that you could overload a device that originally had a 6-20 plug and the breaker would not trip.

Isn't the breaker designed to protect the wiring, not the appliance? If you overload a 20 amp appliance, you run the risk of damaging it. I was always taught that the appliance was sacrificial, and that the breaker was only there to protect the wiring. True, if the 20 amp appliance starts to draw more than the 20 amp circuit breaker can handle, it will trip, and it might or might not save the appliance, however, it will prevent the wiring from damage.
 

nadogail

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Isn't the breaker designed to protect the wiring, not the appliance? If you overload a 20 amp appliance, you run the risk of damaging it. I was always taught that the appliance was sacrificial, and that the breaker was only there to protect the wiring. True, if the 20 amp appliance starts to draw more than the 20 amp circuit breaker can handle, it will trip, and it might or might not save the appliance, however, it will prevent the wiring from damage.

IMHO, worry about a receptacle being protected for a load greater than the anticipated load is a Non Issue.

For example, who worries about all the low draw "wall warts" plugged into 15 and 20 amp receptacles?
 

sberry

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They are designed to be plugged to these circuits. I wouldnt change the tools, provide the proper outlets. this whole subject needs more work here.
 

sberry

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The breaker may not be there to protect the wire it the typical sense, in the case of thermal, the protection may come from the applied load, hence the small welder is safe on a larger circuit as long as the wire can handle load and short circuit. The appliance is not sacrificial but either has its own internal or plugged in to a limited circuit which trips in the event of a fault.
 
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