Profit.
That’s one reason I ask. $180 for a breaker vs $40.
That's where I am now, already got the 120v circuits and my 240v mini split signed off last year but now I need to add all my 240v outlets.
Yep that’s what I’m doing but I’ll need to wire the air compressor as it sitting there but the other 220 have blank covers on them since “ I don’t know what plug the equipment will take” according to the inspector
profit in the name of safety because of a failed install. a person died because the grounding conductor on an AC compressor unit wasnt hooked up properly and motor shorted to the chassis. someone touched it and got nailed....
People die everyday
I dunno. We don't have to install GFCI protection for 250 volt stuff in dwellings. The powers that be struck the words "through 250" out of 210.8(A) when we adopted the 2020. The 2023 is so effed up that we may not adopt it at all, at least that's what I heard at my update class. In a normal cycle it would have gone into effect on Jan. 1 2024.
sure but the difference is this was preventable
True, but that could happen on any circuit that doesn't have GFCI protection. It was an awful thing, even worse that it was a kid playing hide and seek but the 2020 GFCI rules wouldn't have made any difference in that situation. It's the old dumps that need the attention, the new stuff isn't going to have the issues. Of course, there are exceptions to every rule.
I don't know how US 240V GFCIs are configured internally, but if it is detecting the current difference in the two hots only, it would trip if you connected a 120V load.
For a GFCI to be rated for 120/240v circuit protection, the neutral is also monitored by the gfci cb.
Thanks for that, I see the neutral is monitored as well.GFCI breaker connects to the two hots and a pigtail to the neutral bar. Breaker itself has load terminals for two hots and a neutral.
Had a German electrician a couple of decades ago and we were discussing AFCIs as the code was changing right around then. He told me every circuit was AFCI protected in Germany and he thought it was crazy that it wasn't required here. I was thinking maybe I should do that on my next build for myself. Skip ahead many years and I was coming out of the shower when I smelled the tell-tale signs of an electrical fire or, more correctly, overheating circuit. Sure as sh!t, that house would've burned down had I not been there (I'm gone five-six months a year). It was in the dining room addition put up by the original owner (mid-range country club/golf course tract home in the desert) that was about the biggest POS addition I've ever seen with a cheap-*** rheostat that went bad. Not surprised. Next house ('25 or '26 start) will be all AFCI circuits, as will the current house soon enough.
How is the power derived for these electronic GFCIs? Will it still operate with a disconnected hot?Square D website...........search within FAQs........this is an old version but still wired the same today.
No, it parasites the circuit. If the neutral pigtail is not hooked up to the neutral bar, it also won't work. (At least the single pole versions.)
sounds like youre referring to a 3Ø system. our Wye systems here in the US also have the neutral as the common wye center point.
At least in the US, level 3 EVSE requires 208 or 480vac, 3 phase. I'm sure there are 400vac versions available or soon to be. These would really make the grid scream!!
(and for that reason, may never happen in residential areas)These would really make the grid scream!!
Is it because of the distance between the range and the sink (not enough) or is it just a standard NEC requirement for stoves to be GFCI these days?
