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240Volt Lift worth the extra hassle?

Gizzygone

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Would it be worth the extra cost/hassle of installing a 240v outlet for a Bendpak 4 post lift?
Obviously lift time is faster… but how much faster is it over a 110?
Romex isn’t cheap right now (I have plenty of 12/2 I could use for the 110v setup), and I’d be losing extra space in my sub panel that could go towards other projects…
 
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Yankeefarmer

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I don’t think so, except…. My Advantage 9k 4 post is 120 volt, and I have no issues with lift time, even when lifting my F250. My shop has 3 20 amp circuits for wall receptacles, and the lift simply plugs into a receptacle on one circuit. It just happens to be the longest circuit, and, because it serves the back wall, also has/had my stereo receiver and a television monitor plugged into it. I found that the starting current surge was enough to momentarily drop the voltage to where the stereo and/or tv will shut down when the lift is first energized. This problem is avoided by plugging those electronic devices into a different circuit. So just think about whether you plan to provide a dedicated circuit for the lift, or what else might be connected to and using the same 120v circuit as the lift. After all, the lift motor is not energized for well over 99% of the time.
 

mike93lx

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Lift time isn't necessarily faster and the romex would actually be cheaper .

Current is cut in half with 240v vs 120v, so you may be able to.use smaller gauge wire. Either way, you only need two conductors plus ground

12/2 supports 20a at both 120v and 240v. Why do you think you can't use it?

I bet you could use 14/2 at 240v
 
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u2slow

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I would use 240v hookup to balance the inrush current better. Jmho.
 

infinkc

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how often will you be using the lift? if not multiple times a day, just go the 120v route. You can also run the 240v to have 240v in that area for other compressor/tools/welder/ev charging.
 

Walkers

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No real advantage on the lift. Inrush current seems fairly low on mine, likely because they start under no load, and there is appropriate sized wire all the way to the motor.
 

Stuart in MN

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The lift in my garage is 120vac, I've never had any problems. It certainly makes hooking it up easier. Also, if you get a caster kit with the lift so it can be moved around the garage, you can just plug it into the nearest handy receptacle.
 

Al G

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I've had both 120 and 240 volt Bendpak lifts. The 240 was definitely faster but much more jerky when you pressed the button. Unless you are using it multiple times a day I would go with 120.
 
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Gizzygone

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So yea, This would be an occasional use lift.

110 would certainly be more convenient, but being a “dream purchase” I didn’t want to leave anything on the table.

A dedicated outlet could be installed for 220… but I’ve also considered running an extension cord from the rear of my garage to where I plan on putting a 220v outlet for welding/brewing.

The only challenge with this plan is figuring out how to add a cutoff switch closer to the lift itself.
 

Yankeefarmer

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Ther’s no challenge adding a cutoff switch close to the lift at 220 volts. Leviton makes a two pole, 30 amp rated toggle switch that, from the outside, looks just like a conventional light switch. Just locate a standard electrical box in the area to house it.
 

finn

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Might be time to add circuits for your car charger, too.

My Advantage lifts are 120, although at least one, the SS11000 can apparently be reconfigured to 240, per the box label.

My Bendpac two post is 240, and is a littl faster. Both lower by gravity, so voltage isn’t a factor there.

At the end of the day, raising the lift is a tiny fraction of the time the car spends on the lift.
 
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Gizzygone

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Might be time to add circuits for your car charger, too.

My Advantage lifts are 120, although at least one, the SS11000 can apparently be reconfigured to 240, per the box label.

My Bendpac two post is 240, and is a littl faster. Both lower by gravity, so voltage isn’t a factor there.

At the end of the day, raising the lift is a tiny fraction of the time the car spends on the lift.
Right: I kind of wish my subpanel was bigger than 60amp, but it is what it is…

My thought here is I can add a 14-50 outlet to the panel, and then run a large RV/Generator extension cord over to the lift for 220. In this scenario, really my only cost would be the box/outlet for the 14-50 (I still have 6g wire left over from the subpanel install… and I have a nice long extension cord I use for my generator… Once/If copper comes down in price I can get a shorter version for the lift.

Or… again… I can always just add a 110v outlet above the lift and use that…
 

pbon

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I would just do the 120. It’s easier work works fine for most people. I bought the 240 motor but had my walls open and was wiring at the time. It is probably faster but I am just a DIYer and 45 seconds instead of 30 seconds is not really going to matter.

What are you doing for air? Just a small compressor is fine.
 
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Gizzygone

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I would just do the 120. It’s easier work works fine for most people. I bought the 240 motor but had my walls open and was wiring at the time. It is probably faster but I am just a DIYer and 45 seconds instead of 30 seconds is not really going to matter.

What are you doing for air? Just a small compressor is fine.

45 seconds wouldn’t be bad: but some are saying at least double that number?

I have a 27 gallon craftsman. Mostly just used for blowing dust around these days, but I have a drop right near where I plan to park the lift.
 

racecougar

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I'll recommend just sticking to 110V. The raise time isn't as bad as you're making it out to be, you won't have to screw with a big extension cord on the floor, and can plug it in to other receptacles should you choose to move it around the shop.
 
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mike93lx

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Not positive: I’d assume 20amp? I see posts of people getting away with 15amp circuits though.

If you are comparing a 15a at 120v pump to 30a at 240v, you are talking about completely different pumps, not just a voltage difference.

You are putting a lot on a voltage rating that doesn't actually tell the story. I'd recommend getting real specs and sharing them.
 
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Gizzygone

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If you are comparing a 15a at 120v pump to 30a at 240v, you are talking about completely different pumps, not just a voltage difference.

You are putting a lot on a voltage rating that doesn't actually tell the story. I'd recommend getting real specs and sharing them.
I think they do ship with completely different motors: I’ll have to see if I can get Bendpak to tell me what they actually ship with
12/2 romex argument does not apply.
If it was a 30 amp, I’d likely be looking at 10/2, 10/3
 

rpcraft

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Is it that much faster over 120? I was recently using a friends lift that is 120. I was joking with him about it and he told me that was the only real difference overall was the lifting speed. I figure if it takes a few seconds extra it's not a huge issue considering at some point I am going to spend a half hour looking for where I set the 10 MM or some other dumb stuff like that.
 
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Gizzygone

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I'll recommend just sticking to 110V. The raise time isn't as bad as you're making it out to be, you won't have to screw with a big extension cord on the floor, and can plug it in to other receptacles should you choose to move it around the shop.
It’s a small 2 car garage with an even smaller shop added to the rear: the lift can really only go from one bay to another… and front to back a few feet.
I don’t know why I’m so hung up on 110 vs 220… I just have it in my head that 220 will be faster.
Heck, I’m trying to even justify the 110 as being safer (as in not crushing anything against the ceiling), but even that’s not working in my mind!
 
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Gizzygone

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Is it that much faster over 120? I was recently using a friends lift that is 120. I was joking with him about it and he told me that was the only real difference overall was the lifting speed. I figure if it takes a few seconds extra it's not a huge issue considering at some point I am going to spend a half hour looking for where I set the 10 MM or some other dumb stuff like that.
I’m not sure. Some people are saying 10 seconds… some say 30.
I can’t find concrete evidence showing one vs the other: but I watch an advantage lift with 110v lifting a mustang and it took 2minutes, which just seemed excessive… I think it’s the main reason I’m hanging on this last decision.
 

u2slow

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If it was a 30 amp, I’d likely be looking at 10/2, 10/3

Not likely. Proper wire and breaker sizing for motors appears as though the breaker is oversized. #12 can normally support 3hp at 240v. OTOH, 3hp at 120v will need larger than #12.
 

Al G

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The Bendpak spec sheet says 50 seconds lift time at 220 volts. I wouldn't put much stock in that. I think my 110 volt Bendpak was faster than that. The 220 version took about half the time of the 110 version. Unfortunately I don't have either of them anymore so I can't give you a precise time.

If you have to worry at all about any overhead obstructions I highly recommend you stay with 110 volts. The 220 volt version is very difficult to raise in small increments. It will jump 2 inches as fast as you can press the button and release it.
 

Maxcustody

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I don’t think so, except…. My Advantage 9k 4 post is 120 volt, and I have no issues with lift time, even when lifting my F250. My shop has 3 20 amp circuits for wall receptacles, and the lift simply plugs into a receptacle on one circuit. It just happens to be the longest circuit, and, because it serves the back wall, also has/had my stereo receiver and a television monitor plugged into it. I found that the starting current surge was enough to momentarily drop the voltage to where the stereo and/or tv will shut down when the lift is first energized. This problem is avoided by plugging those electronic devices into a different circuit. So just think about whether you plan to provide a dedicated circuit for the lift, or what else might be connected to and using the same 120v circuit as the lift. After all, the lift motor is not energized for well over 99% of the time.
Good to know. Mine gets installed next week 👍
 
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Gizzygone

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The Bendpak spec sheet says 50 seconds lift time at 220 volts. I wouldn't put much stock in that. I think my 110 volt Bendpak was faster than that. The 220 version took about half the time of the 110 version. Unfortunately I don't have either of them anymore so I can't give you a precise time.

If you have to worry at all about any overhead obstructions I highly recommend you stay with 110 volts. The 220 volt version is very difficult to raise in small increments. It will jump 2 inches as fast as you can press the button and release it.
Interesting about the quick jump... I just did the math, and if I'm correct: 86.5" max lift / 50 seconds to max lift = 1.7" per second... Not sure how reactive the buttons are, but certainly seems like your 2" per push could be accurate?

Just when I got finished deciding: hell, go big or go home, you've grounded me back to 110!
 

fsts2k

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Chicago
Hello,
I have a BendPak 4 post lift that I purchased used with 240v. I am going to be moving it to a new garage space which I believe only has 120v. Does anyone know if it is possible to reconfigure the lift to be 120v or do I need to purchase a new motor assembly from BendPak?
 

Walkers

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Hello,
I have a BendPak 4 post lift that I purchased used with 240v. I am going to be moving it to a new garage space which I believe only has 120v. Does anyone know if it is possible to reconfigure the lift to be 120v or do I need to purchase a new motor assembly from BendPak?
Look on the motors rating tag. It will show 115/230 in the voltage section if it is convertible. If not look at the motors frame number and see if you can find one that is, though at that point it may be as cheap to buy a new pump.
 

rpcraft

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I’d check with bendpack to be honest if the info isn’t readily available in the motor and owners instructions you got with the lift.
 

fpgt72

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I really don't know much about lifts, when I bought mine I wanted local and I wanted them to install it....past that I wanted it to lift 12,000 and have nothing I needed to drive over.....or try to push the car over if you know what I mean.

I ended up with a forward f12 (i think), not sure if those are good lifts or not, but it has done well for quite a few years.

Now to the point about power. I installed the power in my shop and had not gotten even half of the building done. They just used 110 to install the lift and bleed it, and told me to be sure to get it setup up with the correct power before using it.

I am not sure if this is your case or not, leaning to the model that wants the higher voltage or not, but don't yet have the thing run yet.....guess I am saying if you are ready to pull the trigger on the 240 model you should be able to get it setup even if you don't have the correct power where you need it.
 

nadogail

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In my shop, 240 is no more difficult to deal with than 120. My Welder, Table Saw and Garage Heater are all 240. My mobile generator for Job Site work supplies both 120 & 240.
 
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