24x24 Backyard Barn

[rydeshed]

Looking good!

 

[Bib Overalls]

Nice building. Not to big, volume wise, to cool with a large window unit. I lived for a lifetime one year in Kokomo and I know it can get hot enough, and humid enough to almost pop corn in the fields. Run enough electricity to power your lights, tools, and a 30 amp, 220 v AC load. 90 amps with #2 mobile home feed is an economical option. The wire will be cheaper than #4 copper, which is what you will need for 60 amps and a 100 amp panel is going to be about the same or even cheaper. The only place where expenses might be significantly higher is at the tie in to your service.

 

[captain14]

Gotta agree with everyone about the electric. Plan now for more power usage in the future. Al least talk to the electrician about putting in conduit so you can pull lines instead of digging up the yard again.

Looking good so far. Please post more interior shots when it warms up

 

[Arps]

Looking good!

Btw, the truss spacing looks fine to me, assuming the trusses are designed for that spacing. That's the thing that many aren't aware of when they say "looks like a big space between trusses!".... Today's modern trusses are designed for many things, including wider spaces, so the application in your building looks very much like what I would see on many buildings when I was in the industry.

Edit: We built many buildings with a "skip truss" design to allow additional headroom for car lifts. In these engineered designs, two beefed up trusses would be used in conjunction with beefed up purlins to allow the middle truss in the span to be eliminated. Therefore, the height up to the roof line was available. We would center this 16 foot "high headroom" area at a garage door bay so that the car enthusiast could have his lift, and keep his wife happy by having a shorter overall sidewall and building. Just an example.


As far as pitch, most areas have a "standard" that is the default used in most situations based on typical snow loads and other factors. Here in PA, 4 pitch is that standard, although many prefer more pitch for aesthetic reasons. Yours looks to me like a 4 pitch (just guessing by eye) and doesn't look particularly low pitch or concerning to me. Just my opinion, but I think you're in good shape.

Thanks, last month we had 18" of snow and 50 MPH winds all in the same week. I went out there and it was hardly shuddering. I feel confident that it is plenty strong. It is nice to hear from a pro though.

 

[blazentrout]

Looking good!

Btw, the truss spacing looks fine to me, assuming the trusses are designed for that spacing. That's the thing that many aren't aware of when they say "looks like a big space between trusses!".... Today's modern trusses are designed for many things, including wider spaces, so the application in your building looks very much like what I would see on many buildings when I was in the industry.

Edit: We built many buildings with a "skip truss" design to allow additional headroom for car lifts. In these engineered designs, two beefed up trusses would be used in conjunction with beefed up purlins to allow the middle truss in the span to be eliminated. Therefore, the height up to the roof line was available. We would center this 16 foot "high headroom" area at a garage door bay so that the car enthusiast could have his lift, and keep his wife happy by having a shorter overall sidewall and building. Just an example.


As far as pitch, most areas have a "standard" that is the default used in most situations based on typical snow loads and other factors. Here in PA, 4 pitch is that standard, although many prefer more pitch for aesthetic reasons. Yours looks to me like a 4 pitch (just guessing by eye) and doesn't look particularly low pitch or concerning to me. Just my opinion, but I think you're in good shape.

This may be true, but around me there have been several barn roof collapses this winter and about 90% of them have had the wider spaced trusses. what failed was not the trusses so much as the roof perlins failing. just food for thought.

 

[wfopete]

This may be true, but around me there have been several barn roof collapses this winter and about 90% of them have had the wider spaced trusses. what failed was not the trusses so much as the roof perlins failing. just food for thought.

Agreed. Snow load. Light fluffy snow VS Heavy wet stuff/Ice. Might want to ask the builder what the truss is rated at for snow load. I know when I asked my pole barn builder they said "Just what the roof weighs".

The nice thing is, before next winter you can beef up the trusses and perlins fairly easily.

 

[Moe's garage]

Or get a 17 ft. extending snow rake. Clear the snow off the roof as soon as the snow stops flying.

 

[Arps]

About 5 miles from my barn there is another building built by the same company as mine. It has the same spacing, and the same slope. It is a 66'x144' Equestrian building. It has been standing trouble free for almost 30 years. I do appreciate all the advice and concerns, but I am OK with my roof and its structural integrity.

 

[Kevin54]

As far as the trusses, you don't have anything to worry about. Cleary Buildings do theirs the same way. As long as you aren't storing anything about, the 2x purlins carry the load.

THe building looks nice. And again, to repeat myself and others, at least drop a 2" pipe down and run a rope through it just incase you want to step up to more electric later on down the road. I'd go ahead and put a 100 amp box in now and be done with it.

 

[bjcouche]

I understand about not having a huge budget for electrical, but I do have some recommendations on how to do it right and still be at the lowest cost.
First, I believe that electrical code requires no less than a 60A feed to detached structures, so you may not be able to go with 30A.
Second, several people recommended burying 2" conduit. I'm a huge fan of placing cable in cunduit as opposed to direct burial. In your application though I would save some money and go with 1.5" instead of 2". I'd then also lay a second conduit in the trench, say 3/4" or 1"max for CATV, ethernet, alarm, etc. in the future. Don't worry about having a string in the conduit. You can add the string later with a shop vac and a plastic shopping bag trick.
Lastly, the cable I'd use if you can afford anything at all now... I would not go with a 30A feed even if code allowed. 30A would be 4 10awg copper conductors. Last I checked 10awg copper was about $0.20 per foot so $0.80/ft total. If you went with individual aluminum THWN wire 4-4-4-4awg, last I checked it was $0.24 per foot so $1.24/ft total. That would get you a 60A feed in aluminum. whereas a 60A in copper would be 6awg at $.89/ftX4= $3.56/ft total!
THWN aluminum is not available at the big box stores but most electrical distributors carry it, so call around. IF you find years from now that you need more than 60A you can pull it out of the conduit and pull in 2-2-2-4 aluminum for 90A.
Another money saving tip, don't buy your breaker panel at the electrical distributor. The big box stores typically have much better prices on them, although a more limited selection.

 

[bjcouche]

Just checked the cost of copper, and dang, my prices are way off, however it just makes a stronger case or aluminum wire though....

 

[Tejas TJ]

If you're budget is as tight as mine I'd consider this route... I've only been in the trade a year and a half but I'd rent a trencher and dig 24" deep. I'd then buy and run your conduit 2" PVC most likely but voltage drop needs to be considered. I'd also run a 3/4" PVC next to it for your data cable. I'd mount a Square-D Homeline sub-panel and mount it. Then I'd save $$$ for the wire. While saving money check craigslist for cheap shop lighting and receptacles. I wish you were closer I've got 5 gallon buckets full of switches and receptacles. Also check craigslist for 12/2 MC cable for all your lighting and receptacles. If you need to run a 30 amp 220V plug run some 10/2 MC cable to it and clean everything up with 1/4" one hole straps. Because you won't be running more than one tool at a time unless you have a fan going or something of that sort, I'd run one wall to one 20 amp breaker, the other wall on another 20 amp breaker and a 30 amp for a air compressor (sometimes welders need a 40-50 amp breaker). I'd run 8 cheap ($12) 4' shop lights and hang them off the trusses on another 20 amp breaker (I believe each light pulls 0.8 amps each).

 

[PorkChopsMmm]

Would you mind sharing the cost of the contractor to build this? I like the layout and size and am trying to figure out what construction method I want to go with. I am located in Michigan so our snow loads are similar. Thanks!

P.S. We build a small shed a while back and I ran mobile home feeder cable to it (2-2-2-4). It allowed me to economically run wire and have a high amperage without having to blow the bank on copper. FYI.

 

[Arps]

Floor going in now, its been a long winter. I will post an electrical update soon I hope.

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My super nosy neighbor out there supervising for me...

 

[captain14]

Was he doing you a favor keeping an eye on things or just there to "observe"?

Whenever you need an extra hand to do something is he there?

Shop looking good. Did you make the decision about the power feed sizes to it? Looks like it will be a great place to accomplish projects with the break area outside.

 

[Arps]

He is only there when I dont need him. He is generally a pain in the ***, but it is kind of nice to know there are eyes on my house when Im gone.

I havent finalized the electric yet, but soon.

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[1/2 Cup]

Great work
I don't think you can put a value on great neighbours, I have a couple of retirees in our street and as you say can be a pain in the **** at times but on the other hand they would give you the shirt of their backs in time of need..

 

[80WTI_55_CHEV]

great build Arps, that snow looked painful to work in. As for the neighbour i have had the same problem here and it's tuff to find the correct way of telling them to go home, mine would watch everything i did then call the council if anything wasn't up to scratch. At one stage i caught him with a torch hanging over my fence at 4:00am looking around. Some times you have to be really friendly with them to keep them on your side and some times you have to roughen them up as little.

 

[metalhead140]

Haha, the 'too friendly' neighbour... Yep, I think we've all had at least one of those! Building looks great!

 

[Arps]

So tomorrow the electrician is coming out to finalize the power plans. He said normally on these buildings he runs 100 amp so that he can use aluminum wire. He said it is actually cheaper to do that than it is to run 50 amp copper. I admittedly dont know **** about this stuff, so should there be any concerns about aluminum? Will it corrode or anything like that? Is there any reason to do 50amp copper over 100 amp aluminum?

 

[Arps]

Here is is with the shed gone. Weve got all the scrap wood cleaned and started to backfill a little and plant some grass.

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[Arps]

Finally got the electric nailed down. We are going to run 100 amp aluminum, so I should be good to go!

 

[Idle Serge]

Sweet! Good going thus far!

 

[Arps]

Got the fire pit moved back to its new location.

Built a firewood rack out of a broken pallet and a couple pieces of re-bar.

Bought this desk on CL. Made in Corry PA, kind of cool as I was born and raised in Erie PA. Weird to find something from so close to home in Indiana. The guy threw in that wooden organizer thing since I paid the full $30 and didnt haggle. He was a super nice guy.
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[Arps]

Electricity tomorrow!!!

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[1/2 Cup]

Another milestone and great progress to date, looking good..

 

[captain14]

ok waiting to see your garage at night lit up.

glad to see you are still keeping us up to date on your progress

 

[toyoguy81]

I too used aluminum wire run in conduit from the house and installed 100 amp box, you won't regret it! How are you trenching up through floor with concrete already in?

 

[Ford52PU]

Looks good, your electrician is kind of short!

 

[Arps]

We drilled a hole down through the floor.

Let there be light!

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[Arps]

That is my Coax and cat 5 draped over the box
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[captain14]

What fixtures are you using inside? Hard to see with all the bright light inside.

Are you providing any heat in the winter? Or just wear insulated coveralls?

I know you discussed the electric service earlier when I asked.

This is a great build going on here.

 

[Arps]

They are just cheap fixtures with exposed bulbs. No plans for heat or work in the winter, it will just be cold storage.

Thank you!

 

[msgross]

looks like an old government desk, I had one from our National Guard armory when we remodeled. Did you use a ditch witch for that wire?

 

[Arps]

I know its not a "real truck" but it gets the job done.
OSB and pegboard coming home.

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[Arps]

Spent most of the weekend working on the garage with my dad.
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And a topper

 

[Arps]

Put up my holy rail last night. It works good and seems quite strong! It was worth the money for sure.

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[Arps]

Final inspection is done! woohoo!

 

[sean Buick 76]

Great project, you should get plenty of use out of this barn!

I really like the old desk!!! nice score!!!

 

[Cseger1]

Bought this desk on CL. Made in Corry PA, kind of cool as I was born and raised in Erie PA. Weird to find something from so close to home in Indiana. The guy threw in that wooden organizer thing since I paid the full $30 and didnt haggle. He was a super nice guy.
https://scontent-a.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/10359529_10202454893869917_4487549707311919247_n.jpg

That's a great deal. Steel Tanker desks go for $250 around here.