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24x32 Custom Post-Frame in Virginia

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Sunstealer73

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Drywall crew got started today.

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This is the window that I think the truss company messed up on. I think it should have been down one more cross tie. I framed it out so they could screw drywall and box it out .. kind of like a reverse dormer.

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Sunstealer73

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The drywall crew finished and put a couple of coats of white on the walls and ceiling for me this week. I also got the electrical finished and most of the air lines hooked up.

Panel, electrical outlets, and one air outlet:
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Leftover drywall sheets I am going to try to return without breaking. Also, one of the sideways 8' lights and two front-to-back 4' lights:
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Closeup of RapidAir outlet:
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Transition of vaulted ceiling to storage room, air outlet for reel, more lights:
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Gable end of vaulted section and wall outlets:
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Lights on vaulted ceiling:
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The garage is much brighter than it looks in some of these pictures. I have 32 32-watt T8 bulbs for 1024 total watts or 1.3 watts/square foot. Once the cabinets go in along the back wall, I will have some under-cabinet lights as well.

We are painting the accent color and stripes over the next couple of days. We'll have a light gray along the bottom 40", then a 1.5" black stripe, a 1.5" white stripe, and a 3" blue stripe. Then, it will be white from there up. The stripes will end 2" under the electrical outlets. I hope to be finished painting tomorrow afternoon so I can start getting the floor cleaned and ready to stain/seal. I am taking all of next week off to try and get ready to move in.
 
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Sunstealer73

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Got some painting done yesterday and today.

Painted the bottom 40" Sherwin-Williams "Lazy Gray":
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Used Yellow Frog Tape to tape off a 1.4" stripe for black:
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The black stripe will have a 1.4" white strip above it, then a 2.8" blue stripe above the white:
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Black stripe painted:
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1st coat of blue stripe painted:
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I can highly recommend the Frog Tape. There was no seepage at all except in the corners, and just a little bit on a couple of them. Otherwise, I got a razor sharp line all the way around. I still need a couple more coats of blue tonight before I can peel the rest and get the full effect.
 

wfochris

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Aug 1, 2010
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I hope you don't mind but I'm probably going to replicate this build in Alabama!

Super nice and great layout. What are your ideas for a lift and is the concrete different in that area? What's the loft's purpose?
 
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Sunstealer73

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Go for it! I wish it was a little deeper, but didn't have the space.

I am planning a 4-post on the vaulted side, either Bendpak or Direct Lift. I may go with a scissor lift or short rise 2-post on the left later on. The loft is storage for my wife. I really like having the stairs outside instead of taking up valuable floor space inside.
 
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Sunstealer73

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Finished the striping last night and got started cleaning the floors today.

Striping completed and wet floors:
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Stripe detail:
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Sherwin Williams had an awesome sale a couple of weeks ago and talked me into their H&C Solvent Concrete Stain/Sealer. I had them mix it in Silver Gray, a fairly dark - almost charcoal color. I'll be rolling on two coats of it followed by one coat of their clear acrylic sealer. I really wanted to use Legacy's products, but this deal was too good to pass up.
 

royalton10

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Lancaster, Ohio
Sunstealer - I painted my garage with just 8' walls the SW Lazy Gray. I love the color. No stripes.

Your stripes look great. I just got a card over the weekend for SW sale for most of December a 30% discount.

Good luck with the garage.

Doug
 
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Sunstealer73

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Got the first coat of stain/sealer down on the floor this morning. After it was dry enough to walk on, I filled the expansion joints with backer rod and then some concrete crack filler caulk. If the rain holds off, I will do the second coat before I go to bed tonight. Then, the only construction piece left will be the baseboard. After that, the fun can begin.

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dejar59

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Oct 3, 2011
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Looking great. Quick question though. I notice the unfinishe wood around the garage door. What are you planning to do there? Stain or seal or just paint it to make it blend?
 

dejar59

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Looking great. Quick question though. I notice the unfinishe wood around the garage door. What are you planning to do there? Stain or seal or just paint it to make it blend?
 
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Sunstealer73

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Priming and painting the wood around the garage door is still on my to-do list. I thought the painters were going to do it, but I was mistaken. I have some touch-up to do from painting the floors and will probably scuff some walls when I start moving in, so I will take care of it then.
 

bcoma

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Jan 24, 2011
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I noticed on some of your trusses the bottom cord has some discoloration with a lighter 1 1/2" stripe about every 24". In my case mold developed on the Southern Yellow Pine by the end of the summer. Have been talking with the Pole Barn Company and the Truss manufacture to resolve the issue.

Bart
 
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Sunstealer73

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I noticed on some of your trusses the bottom cord has some discoloration with a lighter 1 1/2" stripe about every 24". In my case mold developed on the Southern Yellow Pine by the end of the summer. Have been talking with the Pole Barn Company and the Truss manufacture to resolve the issue.

The stripes on mine were just from the boards being stickered for a while before the trusses were built. There was no moisture or mold on them anywhere.
 

bcoma

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Jan 24, 2011
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I noticed on some of your trusses the bottom cord has some discoloration with a lighter 1 1/2" stripe about every 24". In my case mold developed on the Southern Yellow Pine by the end of the summer. Have been talking with the Pole Barn Company and the Truss manufacture to resolve the issue.

Bart
 

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bcoma

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Jan 24, 2011
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At the time of construction no sign of mold just the discoloration and sticker marks, but months latter mold on the 2x6 Southern Yellow Pine boards. Mold seems to be only on the boards that have sticker marks.

Bart
 
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Sunstealer73

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It looks like you have a metal sided/roofed building with no insulation. I would expect mold to grow in that situation from the metal sweating.
 
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Sunstealer73

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Move-in day is finally here. I went to Sam's and Home Depot on Wednesday and picked up the Seville HD Work Bench, a 32" and 48" Husky locker, and a Husky cabinet and Husky drawer unit. Got most of those assembled between stuffing my face yesterday.

I went this morning and got three of the Husky wall cabinets and 96' of vinyl baseboard. I put the baseboard down and caulked it to the floor to try and make everything as water tight as possible.

Once that was done, I started moving in cabinets and tools.

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I really like these Husky cabinets. They are made by Waterloo and my calipers put the frames as 20 gauge. The shelves and doors are a little thinner though. I plan on doing a full review of them soon since there isn't much info out there on them yet. I am going tomorrow for another of the Seville HD benches, two more base cabinets, and two more lockers (if they are not sold out.)

The compressor and toolbox have followed me to their third garage now over the past several years.
 
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Sunstealer73

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Almost finished with the cabinets now. I still need a 32" and 48" locker for my car detailing and maintenance stuff (oil, filters, etc.)


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Sunstealer73

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So what made you put your air hose reel there ?

Convenience mainly. It is dead center on the long wall, so it will reach anywhere in the shop. I have two outlets in the center of the side walls too. I plan on hanging a couple of recoil hoses on them.
 

paranoid56

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how do you like the cabinets? i know the lower end gladiator ones are screw together too i wonder how they compare to those.
 

project_junkie

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Oct 13, 2011
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Marysville, Ohio
Sunstealer - Is that just blue PEX water line that you ran to your RapidAir connections?

And also, I am in the process of specing out garage doors. I have a 9' tall opening where my lift is going to be and a 10' wall. I have learned that I can use 10' tall rails at the wall before my rails turn to follow up my vaulted ceiling. That will keep my rails closer to my ceiling and further away from the car on the lift. Perhaps you could check with your door installer about changing out your vertical rails for longer ones. Just an observation.
 
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Sunstealer73

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how do you like the cabinets? i know the lower end gladiator ones are screw together too i wonder how they compare to those.

I like them so far. I haven't tried the Gladiators other than at the stores. I just don't like the look of them. If they were a little more subdued, I might have went with them instead.
 
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Sunstealer73

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Sunstealer - Is that just blue PEX water line that you ran to your RapidAir connections?

It is the line that came with the RapidAir kit. It appears identical to the smaller PEX though.

And also, I am in the process of specing out garage doors. I have a 9' tall opening where my lift is going to be and a 10' wall. I have learned that I can use 10' tall rails at the wall before my rails turn to follow up my vaulted ceiling. That will keep my rails closer to my ceiling and further away from the car on the lift. Perhaps you could check with your door installer about changing out your vertical rails for longer ones. Just an observation.

I have done some measurements and it looks like I will have plenty of room for the lift. Interesting idea though. I will keep it in mind in case I do run short on space.
 
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Sunstealer73

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Finally got to do some work IN the garage instead of ON the garage tonight. We got our first snow, so I swapped the tires on my Audi S4 from summer tires (Pirelli P-Zero) to winter (Michelin Alpin PA3). I am looking forward to what this car can do in the snow this winter. It is so much nicer doing work in here than in our attached garage. Lots more room to the sides and front to walk and do work. Much brighter too with all the light.

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Also got my Gladiator track up. This side for lawn tools (still need to buy more hooks):

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And this side for carpentry/building stuff:

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Debated back and forth on how to organize my bolts, nuts, screws, small parts, etc. I really want a Vidmar cabinet, but the price is way too much for a new one. I used open bins in my last two garages, but they accumulated too much dust and dead bugs and were too easy to knock off the wall if I brushed them. I finally decided to buy four of the wall mount/stackable cabinets from Akro-Mills. They are definitely tougher than the cheaper ones you can buy at hardware stores. The bins are a softer plastic, so I don't think they will break as easily as the Stack-On for example. I'll use these until a Vidmar comes along.

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Crazy68Dart

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Apr 10, 2010
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NE Ohio
Curious... the insulation along the roof. Is this common and okay? It seems like it might cause the roof to hold excessive heat in the summer. I understand your reason, so just asking.

What centerline did you stud your walls on? I assume going the pole building route is still considerably less expensive than stick frame?
 

Mr.ratchet

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Jul 7, 2011
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Location
Minnesota
I like your color selection I am thinking of doing something very simular. Your pictures really helped me visualize it.

THANK YOU
 

Falcon67

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Merkel, TX
Very nice looking and layout. You may want to copyright that paint scheme as I think there will be a lot of clones around in a short while LOL.
 
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Sunstealer73

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Curious... the insulation along the roof. Is this common and okay? It seems like it might cause the roof to hold excessive heat in the summer. I understand your reason, so just asking.

What centerline did you stud your walls on? I assume going the pole building route is still considerably less expensive than stick frame?

The insulation isn't actually up against the roof. There is room above it for air movement between the soffits and ridge vent.

I used 24" centers on the studs. I think I came in completely finished with cabinets, floor, landscaping, etc. for about what just the stick-built structure would have been. Much faster construction too.
 
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Sunstealer73

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Very nice looking and layout. You may want to copyright that paint scheme as I think there will be a lot of clones around in a short while LOL.

I owe someone else on here for the idea. I think they used vinyl tape though, can't remember now who it was.
 

Crazy68Dart

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The insulation isn't actually up against the roof. There is room above it for air movement between the soffits and ridge vent.

I used 24" centers on the studs. I think I came in completely finished with cabinets, floor, landscaping, etc. for about what just the stick-built structure would have been. Much faster construction too.

I see, thanks. Is it just the "sag" of the insulation that is the air gap, or is there more to it?

Good to know on the cost as well. I have priced both and stick frame is significantly more. I always thought framing inside with steel studs might help speed things along and help the cost.
 
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