28x40 First draft plans critique

[robb1887]

My planning has reached about the limits of my knowledge, my previous thread had some great feedback and I'm thinking I'm ready to send these plans to an Engineer for the final details. Particularly the LVL (or other suitable material) sizing and requirements, and making sure I didnt mess up anything.

Welcoming any any all further comments and critique of my current plans. Thanks!

Here is the previous thread discussion:

You don't know what you don't know, pre-planning detached 40x28

Hey all, Long time lurker, first time poster. I'm in the early pre-planning of my first detached garage build. As the saying goes, you don't know what you don't know, so I am looking for what details I am missing or overlooking. And some help with some questions I've come across during my...

www.garagejournal.com

Basics:
28' deep x 40' wide
Two bay doors on the left (9'H 10'W), left bay will eventually be closed in "clean" parking
Man door on the right (standard)
Primary use is car mechanic work
Secondary is Wood/metal working
Desire to be fully clear span

Walls:
14'(ish) interior ceiling over bays on left
9'(ish) interior ceiling over "work area" on right
2nd story loft over "work area" 12' wide for storage (8.5' center head room, 7'ish at kick walls to retain same ridge line of attic trusses)
2x6 framing
3 large awning windows set high on the back wall of the Bays
1 double hung Truss gable end
2 double hung on mezzanine gable end

Roof:
Attic trusses over bays for storage
Rafters over loft
9/12 pitch roof for optimal future solar over bays (based off my latitude)
6/12 over loft
Shared ridge line

Floor/concrete work
Footer/stem wall and 4.5" slab pour planned
Planned for a standard width high lift 4 post in the left bay
Planned for a mobile 2 post in the right bay
Potential for 25' apron in front of bays (maybe covered?)

Electrical
Planning a 320A dual lug meter to run an indepentant 200A panel in the shop

Plumbing
Plan for a 3/4 bath fully tiled bathroom under the stairs with a shower head/floor drain
Mop/Industrial sink in the work area outside/adjacent to bathroom.
Required to tie in to existing septic distro box with small holding and pump tank for the shop.

Insulation
Future plans to fully insulate prior to mini-split install

Heating/Cooling
Looking at provisions for a 32K Mini-split Mitsubishi H2i

Water supply/Hot Water
LP instant hot water heater
100Gal LP tank
Pex A install for water

Sewage
[40 Gal] grinder pump station tied into house 4" line to home septic tank is my only option per the county/health department

Garage use:
I will be storing a 2000 Mcoupe and a 97(2UZ V8 swapped) 4Runner all the time, so hence the 4post lift desire to keep a "working bay" open. The 4 post will mostly be storage use, with a hope to get a 2 post later for the "working" bay
I enjoy wood working and have a reasonable collection of large equipment. 70x45 table saw (with motor off rear), 14" band saw, 13" "lunchbox" planar, 12" chop saw
I really enjoy metal work with a current 140HD Lincoln MIG and hypertherm 45 Plasma
Future tool plans: TIG setup, 8" jointer
Yard layout and Garage floor plans "roughed" out attached.

Other
Separate 12x16 shed for lawn/yard implements so none of that in this space

I'm sure I'm missing a whole bunch, but onto the plans/photos!







Title should say West Wall:

 

[robb1887]

I'm surprised I haven't gotten a single comment in over a day....

Guys I've done it! The perfect garage! Ha. Just kidding I know I probably did a bunch weird stuff and you all are just too nice to say anything.

 

[billconner]

Lot to digest. Just curious of snow load. My plan is 28' wide with 60 psf snow load and 2x10s won't work on 24" centers - 2x20 on 16 or 2x12 on 19.2 centers.

I think your 20' 2x6 rafter ties are likely to say, especially if you add a ceiling. Code says (SPF no. 2) 2x10 for 20' (19'-10" actually) span 24" on center. 2x6 is 12'-10" 24" on center. I don't have a good answer. It's the problem with long clear spans and rafters. Add a hanger from ridge but I don't think that's in the building code.

Truss joists for loft floor? Didn't understand that part of framing - probably just missed a note 9n phone screen.

Did wonder why not frame wall 2'-0" on center and single top plate.

Very good set of plans IMHO. Congrats!

 

[robb1887]

Lot to digest. Just curious of snow load. My plan is 28' wide with 60 psf snow load and 2x10s won't work on 24" centers - 2x20 on 16 or 2x12 on 19.2 centers.

I think your 20' 2x6 rafter ties are likely to say, especially if you add a ceiling. Code says (SPF no. 2) 2x10 for 20' (19'-10" actually) span 24" on center. 2x6 is 12'-10" 24" on center. I don't have a good answer. It's the problem with long clear spans and rafters. Add a hanger from ridge but I don't think that's in the building code.

Truss joists for loft floor? Didn't understand that part of framing - probably just missed a note 9n phone screen.

Did wonder why not frame wall 2'-0" on center and single top plate.

Very good set of plans IMHO. Congrats!

No snow in these parts of SE VA. My ground snow load is 15 psf. Similarly my "frost" line is 12" , yes inches.

The rafter and LVL(et all) we're my biggest concerns and if my foundation footings needed different sizing for the columns supporting that LVL.

Trusses are attic trusses provided from a company out in the Midwest for free. The engineer I provide these to will get the plans for them to verify.

I'm comfortable with a 16" OC frame and figure it's easier for me to get materials locally as we don't have a Menards like most on GJ locally.

I've never seen a single top plate on a stick frame? Always double to distribute the roof loads especially on a tall wall like I plan to have?

Thanks for the compliment! I've been trying to get it together for about a year now!

 

[billconner]

Several names for it but if studs align with trusses/rafters - within 1 1/2" - single top plate. Typically 2x6 24 oc but can be 2x4 and can be 16 - but obviously same. Two stud corners are usually associated with it. Optimum Value Engineering is one name. https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/advanced-house-framing
Less wood, better insulation. Couple with 22 1/2" rough opening windows and it gets even simpler.

It's a taste or aesthetic issue, but the reo different roof pitches would bother me. It's done sometimes but usually steeper higher, so visually if extended they all meet at grade. Just point it out and ask "are you sure?" Were I at same place, I'd probably look at reotating roof of taller part.

No Menards here - practically nothing on Canada border but a regional family owned chain (does 4 stores make a chain?) and a lot of Amish with sawmills.

Neighbor is finishing a 28 x 44 with all 14:12 attic trusses. You get a lot of room in attic with that pitch!

 

[rmckee]

So I don't know enough to weigh in from a technical standpoint, but this looks to be impressive pre-production work!

Hopefully my comment will bump this to the top to pique someone else's interest and input

 

[robb1887]

So I don't know enough to weigh in from a technical standpoint, but this looks to be impressive pre-production work!

Hopefully my comment will bump this to the top to pique someone else's interest and input

I welcome non-technical critique as well! i.e. You should move xyz because abc or consider this over that or that this product exists. Not everything is technical!

 

[jbrentd]

On your specs, you mention a 4.5" slab thickness. I don't think that will be sufficient for the lifts. In addition, you'll probably want to specify PSI and rebar size/spacing too, according to the lift manufacturer requirements.

 

[grant00]

It looks like your electrical panel in just inside the door at the bottom of the stairs. And most if not all your loads will be on the other side of the stairs. I just thought through this on my plans. Maybe you could move the panel to the back corner on the same wall. It would make your runs along the workbench wall easier.

Here's how I moved mine. Garage door is on the left in this view and the front half is used for parking. Back half is working. So why would I put my panel where my parking area is? I would have to run all my wire up and over my door along the wall. If I put the panel on the other side between the window I have enough in a stud bay for the panel as well as a 4 gang switch box right next to the door. Easier wire runs to where I will be putting the most outlets in the back.

 

[robb1887]

On your specs, you mention a 4.5" slab thickness. I don't think that will be sufficient for the lifts. In addition, you'll probably want to specify PSI and rebar size/spacing too, according to the lift manufacturer requirements.

I based the slab thickness off the 4-1/4 minimum of the Bendpaks I would potentially buy (I didnt look at other brands but I guess I should for any variance). I could not find any requirement literature on the C7000 mobile 2-posts for floor requirements but I assume if its good for a 9k 2post bend pack it should be good for the lower load mobile ones. MAXJAX doesnt call out any rebar requirements but has the 3k PSI and 4-1/4 thickness as well.

I did forget rebar placement to ensure my 2 post is situated where I want it. #6 12" OC is required per the bendpak literature. the standard 3000psi is sufficient there as well.

It looks like your electrical panel in just inside the door at the bottom of the stairs. And most if not all your loads will be on the other side of the stairs. I just thought through this on my plans. Maybe you could move the panel to the back corner on the same wall. It would make your runs along the workbench wall easier.

Here's how I moved mine. Garage door is on the left in this view and the front half is used for parking. Back half is working. So why would I put my panel where my parking area is? I would have to run all my wire up and over my door along the wall. If I put the panel on the other side between the window I have enough in a stud bay for the panel as well as a 4 gang switch box right next to the door. Easier wire runs to where I will be putting the most outlets in the back.

Thanks for the feedback. I chose the panel location based on the code requirements for clear floor space in front of it and the fact that the bottom of the stairs will never have anything to block it. I'll have a ton of wiring regardless of where it goes so the extra few feet running a few more circuits to the back (north) wall shouldn't be a huge deal.

 

[robb1887]

Did some 3D building just to get a concept of space and usability. I think it looks pretty good, but I'm likely bias.

Not the best layer isolation to get the best views but it was a stupid check for dimensioning and verification. There will be a mandoor between the "clean car" storage area to workshop.

 

[ddawg16]

Like one poster noted...I lot to digest.
With those hi roof pitches, I'm assuming you're in a snow area?

Frost depth? What kind of soil?

Have you thought of a basement?

200A is a LOT of power just for the garage....remember, you only typically run 1-2 things at a time.

How about a utility shed for air compressor?

I'd plan on a sub-panel upstairs to make wiring a little easier.

Skylights? Free light....and if you make them openable....good way to get in fresh air. I have one in my garage.

Don't forget Ethernet drops in key locations. WiFi is great until you have too many devices.

Plan on 2x6 studs for the lower portion. You will never have straight walls with 2x4's over 8'.

I would also plan on a concrete or block stem wall. Get that bottom plate up away from moisture. My stem wall is 8" above the floor...all of my cabinets sit on the stem wall and nothing touches the floor. Makes it easy to clean.

One thought on your stairs.....any reason you can't make those external but enclosed....with a platform at top and large door? With a hoist on top so you can wench something up to the second floor? The space under the stairs could be for your compressor.

 

[robb1887]

Like one poster noted...I lot to digest.
With those hi roof pitches, I'm assuming you're in a snow area?

9/12 over the car bays is to maximize future Solar, not much of a snow load in my area 15lbsf

Frost depth? What kind of soil?

12" I think, I'm on old farm land so good top soil and then hard compact not too much further down. I'll dig down whatever is required by code plus a little. I think my current footer is 14" below grade.

Have you thought of a basement?

Basements in my area are a BEAR for permitting from what I understand. I wish, but not worth the hassle for not the forever home.

200A is a LOT of power just for the garage....remember, you only typically run 1-2 things at a time.

Biggest load I'd run is Plasma, 220V air compressor, AC air dryer and the HVAC minisplit with garage auxiliaries (lights and sound). I have to bore under my driveway to get to my meter and the PC said that a 320A service may not require a new pull. I may step this to 120A sub if material cost gets out of hand for a 200A stand alone vs a 120A sub.

How about a utility shed for air compressor?

Air compressor is planned upstairs to reduce noise. I'll have it on isolators to try and reduce residual. I'm limited on width and depth due to lot lay out and the current shed location. I have thought about plumbing from the current shed a few feet away to the garage to keep the noise out of the garage.

I'll post a lot layout soon.

I'd plan on a sub-panel upstairs to make wiring a little easier.

Skylights? Free light....and if you make them openable....good way to get in fresh air. I have one in my garage.

Good thought but not much use as all my roof will be in storage areas. The windows at the gable ends should provide decent passive light but will still have additional available

Don't forget Ethernet drops in key locations. WiFi is great until you have too many devices.

I do plan to add all sorts of drops of CAT6 or similar this is a week point for me.

Plan on 2x6 studs for the lower portion. You will never have straight walls with 2x4's over 8'.

The car clean area I havent decided if I'm going to the ceiling or if I'm just going high enough to fully life the Mcoupe to max height and provide some storage ontop. The exterior walls are all 2x6 and the only 2x4s are interior for the stairs and the car clean walls currently.

I would also plan on a concrete or block stem wall. Get that bottom plate up away from moisture. My stem wall is 8" above the floor...all of my cabinets sit on the stem wall and nothing touches the floor. Makes it easy to clean.

Concur, I'm planned on a poured stem wall with 8" above grade.

One thought on your stairs.....any reason you can't make those external but enclosed....with a platform at top and large door? With a hoist on top so you can wench something up to the second floor? The space under the stairs could be for your compressor.

Lot width concerns again. I know it eats valuable floor space, but the area under the stairs is optimized with the 3/4 bath that I want to keep. I may steal the Navy trick and put a small winch at the top of the stairs with flip down stair slide covers to get heavier items upstairs if needed.

Thanks for the feedback!

 

[robb1887]

Lot layout

The white phantom line is the existing fencing that obviously will be moved.
The shed is 12x16 and not desired to be moved or deleted

 

[rixtrix1]

Pretty good "pre-planning" drawings. Your building and zoning inspector will be impressed. The multi-use aspect of this is phenomenal!
I'm in planning for a simple 24x30x13 steel garage to use as a workshop for my !966 Chevelle trackcar and my S10 daily/autocross truck. Setbacks won't allow for much more without encroaching on our home. I asked the city if they needed engineered and stamped drawings from the builder and they said no- just a somewhat accurate representation( Google Earth print would do) of our lot with accurate setback and placement measurements. Power company will do a power assessment /design/estimate for upgrading the home service to 200A and the garage with a 100A subpanel. I already have TIG, MIG and AC-stick, 3-HP drill press, 6HP 80gal compressor and will be getting a 9000# 2-post lift. It will be spray foam insulated and heated/cooled with a 24K minisplit. 1- 12x10 paneled garage door, a 3' man door- builder plans include slab/footer requirement in the build drawings

 

[billconner]

No zoning setbacks. I'm 15 on sides and 25 from rear. Lucky.

Looks like good plans. Congrats!

 

[robb1887]

Your building and zoning inspector will be impressed. The multi-use aspect of this is phenomenal!

Unfortunately I need stamped plans and cannot get an engineer to return my calls. I do have a new lead I called this week and will be following up with tomorrow if I don't hear from him today.

Looks like good plans. Congrats!

Thanks

 

[pcmeiners]

You plan very well, your garage will turn out great !!!

"I'll dig down whatever is required by code plus a little. I think my current footer is 14" below grade."

Footers should rest on undisturbed soil. Worms and vegetation roots can disturb soil below that, ( not counting the frost depth needs).

As to the heat pump, Efficiency wise you would be better off with (2 or more) smaller units dividing proportionally your total BTU use; the smaller the unit the higher the EER and HSPF generally can be obtained. Also figure should one system die, you have the other(s) to keep the garage comfortable livable if not comfortable. Just purchased two of the following very efficient, low temp Fujitsu units linked below for a 30 x36' garage. Mitsubishi are good units but there are options, which should not be optional, which costs, plus are less efficient. Which ever you buy, mount them off the ground at you maximum expected snow /drift height; even in Virginia you do ocasionally get decent snow, you do not want to clear snow from around a heat pump in a blizzard.

Fujitsu 12,000 BTU 29.4 SEER High Heat Wall Mounted Single Zone System | Got Ductless

The Fujitsu 12,000 BTU wall mounted high heat single zone system is an extremely efficient heating and cooling option for a mid-sized room. From Got Ductless, it's in stock and comes with free shipping & lift gate service. Shop for your Fujitsu 12,000 BTU wall mounted high heat system today!

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320 amp service is awfully large. 200amp would be ample for a house and shop combined. 100amp on a welder or plasma cutter is about maximum before you need to go 3ph unless you are ambidextrous and can use a welder and plasma cutter at the same time at full load. Than again maybe you weld in your home kitchen while someone else uses a large plasma cutter in the garage.

Since you have time, look on Ebay for a large capacity commercial surge protector, if you are patient you can get a unit at a low price; one which has protection across each hot leg and ground ( you can do this with a 3ph unit).

Your are in termite territory, block their passage with good building procedures and Termidor SC.

LP instant hot water heater 100Gal LP tank....
(2) 120 gallon tanks,( maybe 250, depending on restrictions/placement) cheaper to fill, little restriction to placement (as to doors, windows, setback), allows gas purchase in best season.

 

[billconner]

Unfortunately I need stamped plans and cannot get an engineer to return my calls. I do have a new lead I called this week and will be following up with tomorrow if I don't hear from him today.



Thanks

You seem very close to not needing an architect or engineer. Truss fabricator can provide engineered truss drawings. Lumber supply should provide LVL calcs. It's just the 14' studs that might cause a problem. 3 courses of block and 12' very doable using prescriptive codes. Nothing wrong with an arch or eng, but very hard to find for these diy kind of projects.

 

[robb1887]

You plan very well, your garage will turn out great !!!

Thanks, its been months (going on 2nd year now I bet!) in the planning

Footers should rest on undisturbed soil. Worms and vegetation roots can disturb soil below that, ( not counting the frost depth needs).

I'm on previous farm land from what people tell me. Not far to get to undisturbed soil and I dont have a single tree in my lot. Just "turf" (read weeds) grass. Putting in a new mailbox post it didn't take long to get to packed earth.

As to the heat pump, Efficiency wise you would be better off with (2 or more) smaller units dividing proportionally your total BTU use; the smaller the unit the higher the EER and HSPF generally can be obtained. Also figure should one system die, you have the other(s) to keep the garage comfortable livable if not comfortable.

I hadn't considered redundancies, that may be worth the added cost and maintenance. I'll have to chew on that.

Which ever you buy, mount them off the ground at you maximum expected snow /drift height; even in Virginia you do ocasionally get decent snow, you do not want to clear snow from around a heat pump in a blizzard.

So, 1/2" got it. I kid, but being in SE VA we don't see a whole bunch past 3" that lasts. I do plan to place the units mounted to the side of the garage vice the ground just to prevent damage more than snow concerns.

Since you have time, look on Ebay for a large capacity commercial surge protector, if you are patient you can get a unit at a low price; one which has protection across each hot leg and ground ( you can do this with a 3ph unit).

Never heard of these, what would the application be for?

Your are in termite territory, block their passage with good building procedures and Termidor SC.

PT sills, and looking at doing ZIP system sheathing with their tape and flashing.

LP instant hot water heater 100Gal LP tank....
(2) 120 gallon tanks,( maybe 250, depending on restrictions/placement) cheaper to fill, little restriction to placement (as to doors, windows, setback), allows gas purchase in best season.

As little as I'll be using hot water I went as large as possible that was considered still portable from my readying. We have a cheap fill station up the road I planned to just hoof it to in the pickup when I needed fills.

You seem very close to not needing an architect or engineer. Truss fabricator can provide engineered truss drawings. Lumber supply should provide LVL calcs. It's just the 14' studs that might cause a problem. 3 courses of block and 12' very doable using prescriptive codes. Nothing wrong with an arch or eng, but very hard to find for these diy kind of projects.

I think all plans are required to be stamped in my county for the size I'm building.

The 14' studs are all 2x6 which is to code. Concur a 2x4 is limited to 12'.

 

[kbs2244]

your interior wall can be load bearing
that would give you a max span of 28 feet and a place to put uprights for a ridge beam roof
that will give much more upstairs room
a steel roof ridge beam will give much more upstairs headroom and floor space
a steel beam at the mid point will allow a shorter floor span without affecting downstairs headroom
it will also provide a location for a chain hoist to transverse the whole bay

 

[pcmeiners]

Never heard of these, what would the application be for?

Protects from lightning coming in on the power line, EMF from near lightning strikes, power switching due to utility line switching, primarily early in morning. Likely will protect your house from power anomalies started at the garage. Basically this protects electronic control boards in TVs, modems, machinery controls, plasma cutters, welders. garage door openers etc.

 

[billconner]

The 14' studs are all 2x6 which is to code. Concur a 2x4 is limited to 12'.

I was referencing IRC 2018. Not sure what code you are under If IRC, I wish you could point me to where it allows 14' tall load bearing walls of 2x6. Here's a previous GJ thread on this: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/12-stud-spacing-for-2x6-walls-over-10-high.406656/

Table R602.3(6) seems to clearly say 12' for 2x6, 11' for 2x4.

Did find engineers discussing the and sy GG eating 2x6 on 8" centers (or doubles on 16") can work depending on design wind speed.

So, just curious.

 

[CraigStu]

I looked through your plans and don't have the expertise to comment but they look great to me. One thing I wonder about is a bath w/ shower. Dang what are you going to be doing that you can't take a shower in the house? Thinking it could get expensive tying into the existing septic. As far as I know septics are usually sized according to number of bedrooms in the house. And it is unusual to have say a 4 bedroom septic system w/ a 3 bedroom house so there generally isn't spare septic capacity. Also, although the discussion is usually about a floor drain in the shop, I have seen several posts here saying that floor drains are often a complete no- not allowed. So just a few things to check into re; code. Best wishes to you cause it is going to be a great shop.

 

[robb1887]

Protects from lightning coming in on the power line, EMF from near lightning strikes, power switching due to utility line switching, primarily early in morning. Likely will protect your house from power anomalies started at the garage. Basically this protects electronic control boards in TVs, modems, machinery controls, plasma cutters, welders. garage door openers etc.

My welders and PC stay unplugged unless in use, but may not in the new shop. I may check these out and start keeping an eye out for one. Thanks.

I was referencing IRC 2018. Not sure what code you are under If IRC, I wish you could point me to where it allows 14' tall load bearing walls of 2x6. Here's a previous GJ thread on this: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/12-stud-spacing-for-2x6-walls-over-10-high.406656/

Table R602.3(6) seems to clearly say 12' for 2x6, 11' for 2x4.

Did find engineers discussing the and sy GG eating 2x6 on 8" centers (or doubles on 16") can work depending on design wind speed.

So, just curious.

For my building area I meet R602.3.1 Exception 2. <25lb/sqft Snow load and <130mph wind speeds which allows for up to 18ft. Based on my reading, I have yet to have this blessed by an engineer but talking with basic garage contractors you could do 14' interior ceilings with 2x6 contruction. I dont know if the attic truss throw a wrench into that.

I looked through your plans and don't have the expertise to comment but they look great to me. One thing I wonder about is a bath w/ shower. Dang what are you going to be doing that you can't take a shower in the house? Thinking it could get expensive tying into the existing septic. As far as I know septics are usually sized according to number of bedrooms in the house. And it is unusual to have say a 4 bedroom septic system w/ a 3 bedroom house so there generally isn't spare septic capacity. Also, although the discussion is usually about a floor drain in the shop, I have seen several posts here saying that floor drains are often a complete no- not allowed. So just a few things to check into re; code. Best wishes to you cause it is going to be a great shop.

Agree the septic is sized to the bedrooms, but discussions with the county as such if I am not adding living space in the garage, adding a bathroom in the garage does not increase usage/sizing needs as I can only be seated on one at a time. My grinder/lift pump ties in before the line going to the tank and uses all the same distro box and leach lines.

 

[billconner]

For my building area I meet R602.3.1 Exception 2. <25lb/sqft Snow load and <130mph wind speeds which allows for up to 18ft. Based on my reading, I have yet to have this blessed by an engineer but talking with basic garage contractors you could do 14' interior ceilings with 2x6 contruction.

If you are having sealed plans, you can do whatever the engineer says, so good. I was just looking at the prescriptive IRC and that exception alsorequires "studs supporting a roof load with not more than 6 feet (1829 mm) of tributary length" and it seems like a lot more roof than 6' bears on the wall. I'd guess a registered design professional would have little problem sealing 14' 2x6.

Please let us know. Others have not been permitted to do this.

 

[Indy 3B]

Hi Robb,

Is there any chance you have pictures of the finished product of your build? I am looking at doing something similar with regard to your part project/wood shop, part vehicle collecting/storage.

Your plans are super helpful to assist me in making my plans, thanks for all the effort in sharing!

 

[Heavy Rusted Stuff]

Double Bee Garage (28x40 stick framed, 12ft ceiling with 10/12 pitch floored attic)

So after many years of designing, reading building code, AutoCad revisions, and dreaming, I realized that my time to value ratio to get my garage-mahal built myself was likely impossible. Although capable, life changes, two kids and more things to do than time allows I finally broke down and...

www.garagejournal.com

Search "Double Bee Garage" if the link doesn't work. Some nice pictures on that thread. Looking forward to updates as well.

Russ

 

[robb1887]

Hi Robb,

Is there any chance you have pictures of the finished product of your build? I am looking at doing something similar with regard to your part project/wood shop, part vehicle collecting/storage.

Your plans are super helpful to assist me in making my plans, thanks for all the effort in sharing!

Thanks Russ!

I meant to get in here sooner, but Yes I ended up with a much more "cookie cutter" build out due to cost restraints of the custom plans. As Russ pointed you to, the DBG shop build thread is available but less unique than originally designed. 28x40 with 12ft ceilings, clear span (dual i-beam) and second floor/attic under the 10/12 pitched roof.